I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir

wrote:
I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir

great!!!!

if you feel like buying yourself a present with all that money you
saved.......

go to Radio Shack and buy a clamp on current meter and you can easily
check the current draw of your new motor and make sure it is hooked up
correctly...

Mark

Mark, you mean Radio Smack has inductive current meters? If so, how do
I go about checking the motor? Get it up to full speed and see if it
draws the max rated? Please explain...

Thanks,
Vladimir

Mark wrote:

wrote:

I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir


great!!!!

if you feel like buying yourself a present with all that money you
saved.......

go to Radio Shack and buy a clamp on current meter and you can easily
check the current draw of your new motor and make sure it is hooked up
correctly...

Mark


Better still, you can get a serviceable one at Harbor Freight for
probably under 20 bucks (they were on sale for $12 a few weeks ago).
I checked the one I bought against an RMS in-circuit ammeter, and
it seems fine.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

wrote:
I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir

Sooo what you are going to do with rest $430?

Just kidding, marry X-mas.

Brian

If original hvac company wouldn't have been that griddy they could of
enjoyed some profit....

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir

Get a Co alarm anyway one with digital read out, ones I have seen hold
any peak reading in memory. Co is bad and any reading relating to the
furnace heat exchanger means replace it as they only get worse. Chimney
issues can cause high Co readings also, but you don`t indicate any
issue. Get qualified bids and a written load calc , I will bet yours is
probably 80% efficient and 94%+ is the way to go,not 80% your heating
guy just wants an install. Ive had qualified bids of 29- 3200 for 70000
btu 94.5% VS DC units with good thermostat, plus 10 yr warranty. 2800
for an 80% sounds a bit off, but my bids were in the off season, not now
when all are busy.

wrote

So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself.

More power to ya. Then you can get 3 or 4 quotes from reputable companies in
the off-season so you aren't pressured as much. Do yourself a favor and
don't try to do it during the peak cooling days of the summer.

BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Keep a couple CO detectors up and "running" just in case......

wrote in message
oups.com...
:I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with
me.
: We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but
came
: off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a
1/2 hp GE
: unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm
(can't
: remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the
replacement is 3
: speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low
connected to
: what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the
connections
: when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the
same way.
: Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when
I
: install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money.
Thanks to
: all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to
lack of
: knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems
pretty good
: for that.
:
: Thanks!
: Vladimir
:

It's so great when a plan comes together, isn't it? A little
common sense, some intelligence and a smattering of experience
somewhere can save a diy-er lots of bread.
Now, take the money you saved, put half in the bank, and blow
the rest on something nice for yourself; you deserve it, IMO.

Glad you posted back.

Pop

wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this?

The other real danger is a house burned to the ground. Because the hx is
under positive pressure a crack tends to cause the flames to roll-out.
Depending upon safeties present or not present, and assuming that they
are well placed and not stuck, you may or may not have concerns. It's
time to think about replacing. Not only are the newer furnaces more
efficient they are much safer. HTH.

hvacrmedic


I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir

CJT wrote:
Mark wrote:

wrote:

I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir



great!!!!

if you feel like buying yourself a present with all that money you
saved.......

go to Radio Shack and buy a clamp on current meter and you can easily
check the current draw of your new motor and make sure it is hooked up
correctly...

Mark


Better still, you can get a serviceable one at Harbor Freight for
probably under 20 bucks (they were on sale for $12 a few weeks ago).
I checked the one I bought against an RMS in-circuit ammeter, and
it seems fine.


Actually they are %9.95 on sale here at Harbor
Freight, digital read out. A clamp meter has two
jaws that go together forming a hole. What you do
,Vladimir, is open the jaws so you can move one of
the hot wire into the hole and then release the
jaw. The meter will show the amps in that wire
when the motor is running.

"Pop" wrote in message


Now, take the money you saved, put half in the bank, and blow
the rest on something nice for yourself; you deserve it, IMO.

Poor advice. Take the money you save and buy a case of beer for everyone
that helped you with this project. We'll be even more willing to help in the
future.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

wrote:
You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir


Uh, you are forgetting something about the furnace
construction. The burn areas is just a short
distance from the filter housing which is often
just part of the cold air return duct and is often
very leaky.

Assume that you have a CO problem. The positive
pressure may well push most of the CO into areas
where it is sucked up the flue, but some may go
outside the furnace sheet metal move up 2-3 feet
and get sucked into the air duct.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
t...

"Pop" wrote in message


Now, take the money you saved, put half in the bank, and blow
the rest on something nice for yourself; you deserve it, IMO.

Poor advice. Take the money you save and buy a case of beer for everyone
that helped you with this project. We'll be even more willing to help in
the future.


I like Sam Adams Winter Lagar....

;-]

George E. Cawthon wrote:

wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir


Uh, you are forgetting something about the furnace construction. The
burn areas is just a short distance from the filter housing which is
often just part of the cold air return duct and is often very leaky.

Assume that you have a CO problem.

What warrants that assumption?

The positive pressure may well push
most of the CO into areas where it is sucked up the flue, but some may
go outside the furnace sheet metal move up 2-3 feet and get sucked into
the air duct.


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

RP wrote:



wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this?


The other real danger is a house burned to the ground. Because the hx is
under positive pressure a crack tends to cause the flames to roll-out.
Depending upon safeties present or not present, and assuming that they
are well placed and not stuck, you may or may not have concerns. It's
time to think about replacing. Not only are the newer furnaces more
efficient they are much safer. HTH.


Wouldn't inspecting the furnace reveal whether that is in fact an issue?
Or are you assuming it's broken just because it's more than a decade old?

hvacrmedic


I understand there is no real good way to check the heat

exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir




--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

CJT wrote:
RP wrote:



wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this?



The other real danger is a house burned to the ground. Because the hx
is under positive pressure a crack tends to cause the flames to
roll-out. Depending upon safeties present or not present, and assuming
that they are well placed and not stuck, you may or may not have
concerns. It's time to think about replacing. Not only are the newer
furnaces more efficient they are much safer. HTH.


Wouldn't inspecting the furnace reveal whether that is in fact an issue?

Not necessarily. Every year that goes by the heat exchanger becomes more
and more spent. When it cracks an inspection will reveal the crack, when
performed properly. Before it cracks there is no ****ing crack to be
revealed. Elementary Watson.

Or are you assuming it's broken just because it's more than a decade old?

Seems your the only one assuming.

hvacrmedic



hvacrmedic


I understand there is no real good way to check the heat

exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir

CJT wrote:
George E. Cawthon wrote:

wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its
last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir


Uh, you are forgetting something about the furnace construction. The
burn areas is just a short distance from the filter housing which is
often just part of the cold air return duct and is often very leaky.

Assume that you have a CO problem.


What warrants that assumption?

Maybe it was poorly worded, it is an if-then
statement. It wasn't meant to indicate that he
really had a CO problem.


The positive pressure may well push

most of the CO into areas where it is sucked up the flue, but some may
go outside the furnace sheet metal move up 2-3 feet and get sucked
into the air duct.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 00:39:31 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:



Actually they are %9.95 on sale here at Harbor
Freight, digital read out. A clamp meter has two
jaws that go together forming a hole. What you do
,Vladimir, is open the jaws so you can move one of
the hot wire into the hole and then release the
jaw. The meter will show the amps in that wire
when the motor is running.

l bought, maybe at Harbor Frieght, an attachment clamp-on that works
with a multimeter, plugs into the + and - and lets me use the 2V AC
scale to measure AC amps. Unfortunately my cheap meters didn't have a
2V AC scale (more like 100 and 200 volts)

But I dug out a better meter that had one. Then I noticed that with
that scale, at the full 2V, the clamp on would be indicating 1000amps
or was it 100 and the lowest amount I could possibly measure was to
one decimal place: 0.3 amps , .0.4 amps, etc. So I wouldn't be able
to use it to measure the current in the Hot Surface Ignitor of my
friend's oven.

Then I noticed that that particular circuit was easy to open at the
wire nut, and I could just use the AC current scales on the pretty
good meter, and that's what I plan to do.

So I wouldn't recommend the accessories that plug into a regular
meter.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On 20 Dec 2005 14:56:12 -0800, wrote:

You're right. I called them and said what's the alternative to the new
furnace? They said well, you'll be throwing good money after the bad,
but you can replace the blower motor. We'd have to sell you the wheel
as well as those things usually stick to the shaft so much they can't
be removed, and we'll have to inspect the heat exchanger and if we find
cracks we are obliged by law to shut off the heat (you can re-start at
your own risk), yada, yada, yada... The more he talked the more I was
seeing through the thin veil of wanting to sell me the furnace. I may
still need a furnace, mine is 18 years old and may very well be on its

Mine is 26 years old. 27 seasons at the end of this season. . One of
my neighbors with the same furnace at the same age had his replaced a
month ago.

I had to replace the fan motor too. I screwed up, coudln't get it out
of the housing, and paid them. Shame on me.

Also, the first summer I had the house, the transformer powering the
thing failed. They wanted 200 something for the control unit, but I
whined a bit and he offerred to sell me a transformer that didn't fit
physically but has worked electrically for 22 years. I mounted it
inside the furnace panel and ran wires from it to the circuit board.
I suppose I sealed the hole where the original transformer had been,
but right now I'm not sure.

They say I could save money with a more efficient furnace, but the
plan is to fix all house leaks and see how much I really use. After I
had been here a year or two, my oil supplier said I used less oil than
any of my neighbors that he supplied. Don't know why, but I think he
was telling the truth, because the question was whether to have the
furance cleaned.

last leg, but I want to be able to make the decision calmly, not under
pressure of "no-heat in the dead of winter". So, if this fix will see
me through this heating season, it will have paid for itself. BTW,
what are the risks of running the furnace with a damaged heat
exchanger? From what I read, the CO is not that much of an issue since
the heat exchanger is under positive pressure from the blower and the
flue gasses just will not escape into the distribution air. Am I wrong
on this? I understand there is no real good way to check the heat
exchanger, but are there signs of a HUGE problem? Like if I look
inside and see orange flames or something like that. I don't, BTW, I
see nice blue flames that look as they should.

Thanks, guys!
Vladimir


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On 20 Dec 2005 13:36:35 -0800, wrote:

I just went to Grainger and brought my whole assembly there with me.
We took the motor off the wheel (took a little convincing, but came
off) and the guy looked up the replacement. My original is a 1/2 hp GE
unit, the replacement he found was a Dayton 1/2 hp same rpm (can't
remember now), same shaft, the only difference is the replacement is 3
speed, the original is 4 speed. I had the high and low connected to
what probably is cooling and heating. I noted down all the connections
when I removed the original and will hook up the new one the same way.
Total cost with the new capacitor: $69.20. If this works when I
install after work tonight, I will have saved a lot of money. Thanks to
all for encouraging me to replace. My hesitation was due to lack of
knoweledge of where to get the replacement. Grainger seems pretty good
for that.

Thanks!
Vladimir

You're very welcome. Glad to be of help. Grainger is a good place.
I have always found them very helpful. You did it the right way by
taking the whole blower along. Dayton is their brand, and it's good.
I would not worry about the 3 speed VS the original 4 speed. If you
have to swap a wire in the summer for cooling, thats not a big deal.
Most likely you wont have to do anything, 3 speeds are plenty.
I'm just glad you got heat again.

From reading your other post, I think that furnace place was really
trying to rob you. I'd avoid them. An 18 year old gas furnace is not
all that old. Gas furnaces are not that complicated, at least not the
older ones. You can actually check the heat exchanger yourself by
removing the panel and simply looking for any cracks or imperfections.
Or find a trustworthy furnace repair company to inspect it for you.

The advice to get a CO alarm is good advice. You saved a lot of
money, so go get yourself a CO alarm for about $20.
When you inspect your heat exchanger, vacuum out any debris in there
with a shop vac. Keeping it clean prolongs everything.

One last thing. I hope you oiled the bearings on the squirrel case
blower. If they are tight, that could have added to the motor burning
out. Be sure to oil them at least twice a year.

Merry Christmas

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 00:48:06 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Pop" wrote in message


Now, take the money you saved, put half in the bank, and blow
the rest on something nice for yourself; you deserve it, IMO.

Poor advice. Take the money you save and buy a case of beer for everyone
that helped you with this project. We'll be even more willing to help in the
future.

Hey, I like that idea..... Life without beer is not life !!!

I'll be the first to get the start of which brand everyone wants.
This website has almost every beer in the world listed, including
pictures...
http://www.mylifeisbeer.com

And this site has the official Christmas Beer advent calendar,,,
Pretty cool !!!

http://www.thebrewsite.com

By the time you finish looking at these sites you will be so thirsty
you will REQUIRE a beer. Stock up in advance !!!!!

I wont be fussy, Just email me a Budweiser.... The old standby, and it
always satisfies me !!!

Mark

True value of advice revealed:
....
:
Before it cracks there is no ****ing crack to be
: revealed. Elementary Watson.
....

....
:
: Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
: me know if you have posted also.

Not without checking the specs and knowing whether it's right for
the job first, anyways. I do that and it always works out fine.
Funny, huh?

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 10:11:48 -0500, "Pop"
wrote:

...
:
: Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
: me know if you have posted also.

Not without checking the specs and knowing whether it's right for
the job first, anyways. I do that and it always works out fine.
Funny, huh?

I didn't have a first job. I bought it when it was on sale and cheap.

That almost always works out for me, and when it doesn't, I can take
it.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

Some of us actually live near you and want to know the name of the
furnace you called so we know who not to call...