Problem with my Bryant furnace.

I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has stopped working.
First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work. Turning the
blower to the on position starts the blower motor.

I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker. Furnace fires up.

The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later, happens
again.

I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic LED is
blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch kills
power, thus clearing any errors.

Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

Just one idea:
I had exactly same problem on Carrier high efficiency furnace last year.
It was 2 stage furnace. During the day normally furnace works on 1st stage,
so no problem there. At night furnace needs more heat so it starts at 1st
stage, then after 12min goes to second stage. As in second stage it worked
quite long to satisfy thermostat next time it starts with 2nd stage right
away.
My problem was that venting of pipes from furnace was not sloping. So some
water was staying in pipes and was freezing. When furnace was starting on
2nd stage furnace computer would calculate that there is too much resistance
in pipes and would shut itself down. Reseting furnace power would start next
time furnace in 1st stage, so it worked.
Re-venting furnace fixe problem.

I am sure this is just one of possibilieites, but I hope it will help you.

Reagards,



"John" wrote in message
...
Problem with my Bryant furnace.

I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has stopped working.
First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work. Turning the
blower to the on position starts the blower motor.

I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker. Furnace fires up.

The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later, happens
again.

I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic LED is
blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch kills
power, thus clearing any errors.

Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that
capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

kids wrote:
Just one idea:
I had exactly same problem on Carrier high efficiency furnace last year.
It was 2 stage furnace. During the day normally furnace works on 1st stage,
so no problem there. At night furnace needs more heat so it starts at 1st
stage, then after 12min goes to second stage. As in second stage it worked
quite long to satisfy thermostat next time it starts with 2nd stage right
away.
My problem was that venting of pipes from furnace was not sloping. So some
water was staying in pipes and was freezing. When furnace was starting on
2nd stage furnace computer would calculate that there is too much resistance
in pipes and would shut itself down. Reseting furnace power would start next
time furnace in 1st stage, so it worked.
Re-venting furnace fixe problem.

I am sure this is just one of possibilieites, but I hope it will help you.


No change in our venting. It is, however, much colder than it has been
in previous winters.

I did replace an EXTREMELY dirty furnace filter the day before the
problem started. I can't imagine though, how this would bear on the
situation.

Flame sensor bad or dirty
Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
hi-V transformer weak
nozzle partially plugged


"John" wrote in message
...
: Problem with my Bryant furnace.
:
: I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has
stopped working.
: First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work.
Turning the
: blower to the on position starts the blower motor.
:
: I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker.
Furnace fires up.
:
: The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later,
happens
: again.
:
: I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic
LED is
: blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch
kills
: power, thus clearing any errors.
:
: Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error
codes, and
: possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has
that capacity.
:
: Any ideas?
:
: Thanks
: John

its broken, call your favorite tech.

"John" wrote in message
...
Problem with my Bryant furnace.

I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has stopped working.
First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work. Turning the
blower to the on position starts the blower motor.

I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker. Furnace fires up.

The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later, happens
again.

I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic LED is
blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch kills
power, thus clearing any errors.

Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that
capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 14:22:00 GMT, John
wrote:

Problem with my Bryant furnace.

I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has stopped working.
First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work. Turning the
blower to the on position starts the blower motor.

I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker. Furnace fires up.

The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later, happens
again.

I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic LED is
blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch kills
power, thus clearing any errors.

Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

yeah
blink blink .......blink blink blink.....blink.
blink blink blink blink.....blink blink.....blink blink blink.
blink.

say do you realize its projected to be 82° here on christmas day?
prolly haf to run the ac.

This is Turtle.

This is What Paul is tring to stop but you can't stop it for it's
coming no matter what you do. The only way Paul can do is to slow it
down by making it a hell hole out of the group and it will hold it back
for a while , but when it does break loose, it all changes at once.
These two posters are a example of the future.

TURTLE

The door micro-switch does kill power to the furnace. We had a similar
problem a couple years back (mid-winter) and the company doing the
service (not anymore) took a week (yes a week) to figure it out. My
wife and I had to go down around the clock and manually restart from
the circut board. Turns out the service company said they had checked
the gas valve which it later turned out they hadn't, and the valve was
the culprit. Our lockout codes could be "overwritten" (manually) only
for a short period of time, hence the constant restarting..........Doc

"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to call
for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a flame sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.

wrote in news:1135177571.576495.68670
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:

The door micro-switch does kill power to the furnace. We had a similar
problem a couple years back (mid-winter) and the company doing the
service (not anymore) took a week (yes a week) to figure it out. My
wife and I had to go down around the clock and manually restart from
the circut board. Turns out the service company said they had checked
the gas valve which it later turned out they hadn't, and the valve was
the culprit. Our lockout codes could be "overwritten" (manually) only
for a short period of time, hence the constant restarting..........Doc


Yeah. That's why I need the board to hold a code. The problem has
occurred 3 times out of probably 100 ignition cycles now. The tech who
replaced our board 3 years ago told me not to call for service until I get
a code to tell them. They could have us solve the problem by a simple
phone call.

"Pop" wrote in
et:

Flame sensor bad or dirty
Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
hi-V transformer weak
nozzle partially plugged



I'm hoping on the ignitor or flame sensor. Both have had issues in the
past few years. Both have been cleaned or replaced before.

John wrote:

wrote in news:1135177571.576495.68670
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:


The door micro-switch does kill power to the furnace. We had a similar
problem a couple years back (mid-winter) and the company doing the
service (not anymore) took a week (yes a week) to figure it out. My
wife and I had to go down around the clock and manually restart from
the circut board. Turns out the service company said they had checked
the gas valve which it later turned out they hadn't, and the valve was
the culprit. Our lockout codes could be "overwritten" (manually) only
for a short period of time, hence the constant restarting..........Doc



Yeah. That's why I need the board to hold a code. The problem has
occurred 3 times out of probably 100 ignition cycles now. The tech who
replaced our board 3 years ago told me not to call for service until I get
a code to tell them. They could have us solve the problem by a simple
phone call.
Hi,
When it happens is the time to fetch code. Until you read the code,
don't reset it by powering on/off which is initializing the logic.
Think logic, LOL.
Tony

When it happens is the time to fetch code. Until you read the code,
don't reset it by powering on/off which is initializing the logic.
Think logic, LOL.

Try reading the whole thread before replying.

"John" wrote in message
...
"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to call
for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a flame
sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.


Lets see how long your wife is gonna stand being without heat. After all,
its not rocket science....right??

What's your fuel source? Oil, propane, or natural gas?

Is it an 80% (metal chimney) or 90% model (plastic PVC vent)?



--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"John" wrote in message
...
Problem with my Bryant furnace.

I come home or wake up to a cold house. The furnace has stopped working.
First thing I do is beat on the thermostat. Does not work. Turning the
blower to the on position starts the blower motor.

I go downstairs, and reset the furnace circuit breaker. Furnace fires up.

The rest of the day, the thing works fine. Then a day later, happens
again.

I put tape over the door switch, so I can see if the diagnostic LED is
blinking a code next time it happens. I assume the door switch kills
power, thus clearing any errors.

Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

We need to k now the fuel.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Pop" wrote in message
et...
Flame sensor bad or dirty
Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
hi-V transformer weak
nozzle partially plugged

"John" wrote in message
...
: "Pop" wrote in
: et:
:
: Flame sensor bad or dirty
: Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
: hi-V transformer weak
: nozzle partially plugged
:
:
:
: I'm hoping on the ignitor or flame sensor. Both have had
issues in the
: past few years. Both have been cleaned or replaced before.

Can you observe them to watch them work? If they've gone out
before, well maybe ... makes sense to check at least.

Have you tried any of the appliance web sites? Thre are a couple
of good ones I'll look up if you haven't tried them yet. Let me
know. Or maybe someone else has them right handy and will post
them.
Have you tried the mfg's web site?
I've forgotten the initial post, so ... sorry if you already
said those things.

Pop

Noon-Air wrote:

"John" wrote in message
...

"Noon-Air" wrote in
:


its broken, call your favorite tech.


Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to call
for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a flame
sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.



Lets see how long your wife is gonna stand being without heat. After all,
its not rocket science....right??



My wife must be more understanding than yours.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Pop wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
: "Pop" wrote in
: et:
:
: Flame sensor bad or dirty
: Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
: hi-V transformer weak
: nozzle partially plugged
:
:
:
: I'm hoping on the ignitor or flame sensor. Both have had
issues in the
: past few years. Both have been cleaned or replaced before.

Can you observe them to watch them work? If they've gone out
before, well maybe ... makes sense to check at least.

Have you tried any of the appliance web sites? Thre are a couple
of good ones I'll look up if you haven't tried them yet. Let me
know. Or maybe someone else has them right handy and will post
them.
Have you tried the mfg's web site?
I've forgotten the initial post, so ... sorry if you already
said those things.

Pop


Hi,
My Carrier furnace can go into test moce cycling thru it's sequences.
Just a mattrer of jumpering one pin. No such thing in your furnace?
If you do, you can observe what's going on.
Tony

"John" wrote in message
...
"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to call
for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a flame
sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.

Is this your post?
No change in our venting. It is, however, much colder than it has been
in previous winters.

I did replace an EXTREMELY dirty furnace filter the day before the
problem started. I can't imagine though, how this would bear on the
situation.


If you cant figure out how a dirty filter can cause a unit to trip out and
lock out and stay in a locked out condition, then you REALLY do need to call
a qualified tech out.
Particularly if you are willing to pay $45 for a damn ignitor...an ignitor
that ISNT your issue, nor is that flame sensor.
And if you cant find the error codes, that are either on your board, or on
the door, then you sure you can go from there? I mean, just cause it says
its in a particular circuit, does that mean you will replace everything in
it and then still get the code later? Then, you are still down, and its
still not right, and you have blown money on parts you didnt need....lets
see...

$200 in parts you didnt need....
or
$150 service call that got you fixed...

Tony Hwang posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

Pop wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
: "Pop" wrote in
: et:
:
: Flame sensor bad or dirty
: Electrode bad or dirty or needs gapping
: hi-V transformer weak
: nozzle partially plugged
:
:
:
: I'm hoping on the ignitor or flame sensor. Both have had
issues in the
: past few years. Both have been cleaned or replaced before.

Can you observe them to watch them work? If they've gone out
before, well maybe ... makes sense to check at least.

Have you tried any of the appliance web sites? Thre are a couple
of good ones I'll look up if you haven't tried them yet. Let me
know. Or maybe someone else has them right handy and will post
them.
Have you tried the mfg's web site?
I've forgotten the initial post, so ... sorry if you already
said those things.

Pop


Hi,
My Carrier furnace can go into test moce cycling thru it's sequences.
Just a mattrer of jumpering one pin. No such thing in your furnace?
If you do, you can observe what's going on.
Tony

Tony, the only pin you should jumper is to turn your electro shock on you fundy
idiot.
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Stormin Mormon posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

We need to k now the fuel.

fart gas from beans.
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Stormin Mormon posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

What's your fuel source? Oil, propane, or natural gas?
I told you FART gas!!!!!

Is it an 80% (metal chimney) or 90% model (plastic PVC vent)?

Fart fan
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 14:39:17 GMT, wrote:


Right now it glows steady. I suppose I need a list of error codes, and
possibly a way to retrive any stored codes, if the board has that capacity.

Any ideas?

Thanks
John

yeah
blink blink .......blink blink blink.....blink.
blink blink blink blink.....blink blink.....blink blink blink.
blink.

Come in! Come in, Starship Engerprise.

We thought you were lost.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

We need to k now the fuel.


Natural Gas. I have a constant "on" on the LED. Several folks have
indicated this means a board failure.

Tony Hwang wrote in news:1Flqf.158519$ki.53095@pd7tw2no:

My Carrier furnace can go into test moce cycling thru it's sequences.
Just a mattrer of jumpering one pin. No such thing in your furnace?
If you do, you can observe what's going on.
Tony


Mine has that option too. Since it fires up and works fine once I cycle
the circuit breaker or open and close the door, test mode is not required.

Problem is intermittent. Woke up yesterday morning to a 50 degree house.
Today, everything is working fine. It's happened 3 times in a week. I
just never know when the thing won't work.

"CBHVAC" wrote in
:


"John" wrote in message
...
"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to
call for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a
flame sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.

Is this your post?
No change in our venting. It is, however, much colder than it has
been in previous winters.

I did replace an EXTREMELY dirty furnace filter the day before the
problem started. I can't imagine though, how this would bear on the
situation.


If you cant figure out how a dirty filter can cause a unit to trip out
and lock out and stay in a locked out condition, then you REALLY do
need to call a qualified tech out.

Ya got it backwards. The problem didn't start until AFTER I replaced the
filter.

As it turns out, we got an offer in the mail from our furnace guy for a
reduced price furnace checkup. We are going to call. In the end, we'll
find out the deal.

John posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

"CBHVAC" wrote in
:


"John" wrote in message
...
"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to
call for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a
flame sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.

Is this your post?
No change in our venting. It is, however, much colder than it has
been in previous winters.

I did replace an EXTREMELY dirty furnace filter the day before the
problem started. I can't imagine though, how this would bear on the
situation.


If you cant figure out how a dirty filter can cause a unit to trip out
and lock out and stay in a locked out condition, then you REALLY do
need to call a qualified tech out.

Ya got it backwards. The problem didn't start until AFTER I replaced the
filter.

As it turns out, we got an offer in the mail from our furnace guy for a
reduced price furnace checkup. We are going to call. In the end, we'll
find out the deal.

ANY furnace guy that isn't busy right now HAS got to be a hack. Think about
it.
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
John posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

"CBHVAC" wrote in
:


"John" wrote in message
...
"Noon-Air" wrote in
:

its broken, call your favorite tech.

Once I get the error codes I can go from there. I see no reasons to
call for an expensive service call when all I need to do is clean a
flame sensor
or replace a $45 ignitor.

Is this your post?
No change in our venting. It is, however, much colder than it has
been in previous winters.

I did replace an EXTREMELY dirty furnace filter the day before the
problem started. I can't imagine though, how this would bear on the
situation.


If you cant figure out how a dirty filter can cause a unit to trip out
and lock out and stay in a locked out condition, then you REALLY do
need to call a qualified tech out.

Ya got it backwards. The problem didn't start until AFTER I replaced the
filter.

As it turns out, we got an offer in the mail from our furnace guy for a
reduced price furnace checkup. We are going to call. In the end, we'll
find out the deal.

ANY furnace guy that isn't busy right now HAS got to be a hack. Think
about
it.

No kidding...booking now installs now for late Feb, and into March
again...just when you think you get caught up...

--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie