I purchased a Kenmore Elite model 110-24962300 clothes washing machine
a while back and for some reason, it appears to be leaking at the
front of the unit. We were a bit dismayed to discover that we can't
get a repair person here until Dec 30 and very much irritated to be
experiencing this failure right on the heels of that of our new
Kenmore refrigerator this past summer where we lost a couple of
hundred dollars in food. I personally have had it with Kenmore and
absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this
lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that
said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris

"cover" wrote in message
...
I purchased a Kenmore Elite model 110-24962300 clothes washing machine
a while back and for some reason, it appears to be leaking at the
front of the unit. We were a bit dismayed to discover that we can't
get a repair person here until Dec 30 and very much irritated to be
experiencing this failure right on the heels of that of our new
Kenmore refrigerator this past summer where we lost a couple of
hundred dollars in food. I personally have had it with Kenmore and
absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this
lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that
said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris

I've looked up parts & services manuals online. If it's a newer model, it's
bound to be there somewhere in PDF form.

Leigh in raLeigh

Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris
Pop off the two end caps of the control console. You'll find a screw at
each end under the end caps. Remove these and flip console up. You'll then
find two clips that you can remove with a screwdriver. Remove these and
unplug the wires that go to the lid switch (of course, make sure machine is
unplugged first). Then spread the body of the unit in back slightly so it
comes out of the two plastic "H" channels and lift and pull forward the
whole body ( sides and front) in one piece. Reverse procedure to replace
body. I suspect you'll find that the water pump seal has failed if the
water is coming out from under the machine in the front center. Easy to
replace. Water pump is held to motor by two thumb clamps and of course hose
clamps on hoses.
If your machine ever stops spinning and/or agitating and it makes a clicking
noise, it's common for the connector between the motor shaft and
transmission shaft to break. Same procedure as above but continue on
removing thumb clamps on motor to remove motor after water pump is removed.
This connector is designed to fail if machine is overloaded or agitator is
bound up by the clothes. Kind of like the "shear" pin on an outboard motor
or snow blower.

Tom G

"cover" wrote in message
...
: I purchased a Kenmore Elite model 110-24962300 clothes washing
machine
: a while back and for some reason, it appears to be leaking at the
: front of the unit. We were a bit dismayed to discover that we can't
: get a repair person here until Dec 30 and very much irritated to be
: experiencing this failure right on the heels of that of our new
: Kenmore refrigerator this past summer where we lost a couple of
: hundred dollars in food. I personally have had it with Kenmore and
: absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this
: lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that
: said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

You're kidding!? Are there really that few appliance repairmen in
your area, or is this someone being sent out by Sears? I'm not sure
if it's universal, but I have the strong impression that Sears simply
pays local people to do things like repairs, installations, &
what-have-you...and if it isn't under warranty, you're likely better
off finding a good repairman on your own.

[snip]

Tom's advice is excellent. A water pump is quite easy to replace on
these units.

Personally speaking, I like the 110.(Whirlpool) source units. They hold
up well and are very easy to repair.

Q (ex sears appliance repair man)

Tom wrote:
Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris

Pop off the two end caps of the control console. You'll find a screw at
each end under the end caps. Remove these and flip console up. You'll then
find two clips that you can remove with a screwdriver. Remove these and
unplug the wires that go to the lid switch (of course, make sure machine is
unplugged first). Then spread the body of the unit in back slightly so it
comes out of the two plastic "H" channels and lift and pull forward the
whole body ( sides and front) in one piece. Reverse procedure to replace
body. I suspect you'll find that the water pump seal has failed if the
water is coming out from under the machine in the front center. Easy to
replace. Water pump is held to motor by two thumb clamps and of course hose
clamps on hoses.
If your machine ever stops spinning and/or agitating and it makes a clicking
noise, it's common for the connector between the motor shaft and
transmission shaft to break. Same procedure as above but continue on
removing thumb clamps on motor to remove motor after water pump is removed.
This connector is designed to fail if machine is overloaded or agitator is
bound up by the clothes. Kind of like the "shear" pin on an outboard motor
or snow blower.

Tom G

Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris (snip)

Sometimes this kind of work on your own will void the warranty. Sears
wants to sell new appliances, not keep already-sold ones going, which
is why they make it difficult to be user maintainable, and why the
repair is so slow. It is the sort of short-term profit thinking that
ruined General Motors and that is tearing down Sears too.-Jitney

I'd agree about the water pump being the likely culprit. This is a
Whirlpool-built Kenmore. I really hate the cabinet removal procedure on
these, it's a bit fussy, although, of course "do-able."

The Maytag's are much easier to pull open -- and considering Maytag's
reliability record lately, it's a good thing. ;D

wrote in message
oups.com...
: I'd agree about the water pump being the likely culprit. This is a
: Whirlpool-built Kenmore. I really hate the cabinet removal procedure
on
: these, it's a bit fussy, although, of course "do-able."
:
: The Maytag's are much easier to pull open -- and considering
Maytag's
: reliability record lately, it's a good thing. ;D

I like my ancient Maytag (prob 40+ years old), I need to replace the
clips to hold the front on, but it just keeps going, and going, and
going. I just don't want to have to move that heavy thing again.

Wish I still had my Maytag of a couple of four or so decades ago. I
bought it used for $25, used it for nine years and then sold it when I
moved -- for $25. It's quick and simple to pop open the Maytag. A
repair book at the library probably has illustrated pictures of how to
open the Kenmore/Whirlpool.

The only trick is that the newer model Whirlpools have more plastic and
it is probably easier to snap something nowadays while removing the
cabinet.

This same question came up about a month ago or so. Do a Google search
and you should find it. A web site was mentioned which provides
detailed photos of how to remove the case. It is not intuitively
obvious.

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 05:35:34 -0800, cover
wrote:

I purchased a Kenmore Elite model 110-24962300 clothes washing machine
a while back and for some reason, it appears to be leaking at the
front of the unit. We were a bit dismayed to discover that we can't
get a repair person here until Dec 30 and very much irritated to be
experiencing this failure right on the heels of that of our new
Kenmore refrigerator this past summer where we lost a couple of
hundred dollars in food. I personally have had it with Kenmore and
absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this
lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that
said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

Off of venting mode, I cannot see how the front of this unit comes
off. My last Kenmore washer was pretty simple - 2 screws and off the
front came. This unit is somewhat of a 'wraparound' albeit with no
fasteners of any kind anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with
one of these wraparound units or better yet, this model in particular
who may be able to tell me how to at least get the front cover off
without tearing up the unit aesthetically?

thanks,
Chris

Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.comcast.net/~dyrgcmn/

"cover" wrote in message
...
I personally have had it with Kenmore and
absolutely will not purchase another appliance from Sears in this
lifetime given their sudden failure rate and poor service and that
said from a lifelong Kenmore appliance user.

Along the same line, I bought a TV from Sears about a year ago and a
DVD/VCR player about 4 months ago. Both of these were not Sears brand, but
Toshiba. When I had problems with both of these and called Toshiba for
warranty service, I found that Sears had as the one who had to do repairs.
The local TV guy said that if he did it (and he is an authorized warranty
repair shop) he would not get paid because it was up to Sears. I had similar
problems in getting stuff picked up and delivered. Even when Sears called to
say the TV was fixed, they said it could not be delivered for a week. Total
BS. If the local guy had fixed it the turnaround would have been 4-5 days
instead of what worked out to 3 weeks.

Lesson learned here. Ask who does the repairs before the sale is rung up.
Sears does it. Sorry, no sale!

Charlie

On 15 Dec 2005 10:52:54 -0800, wrote:

I'd agree about the water pump being the likely culprit. This is a
Whirlpool-built Kenmore. I really hate the cabinet removal procedure on
these, it's a bit fussy, although, of course "do-able."

If it's aWhirlpool built, I have a little experience with that, and in
mine, there is no need to take off the front to removed the water
pump. It can be done from the back (and maybe the bottom too, I don't
reember. Once the water was out, I tipped it over forwards.

(As it turns out, I may not have needed a pump at all. My output hose
might have been kinked. I have to learn to go slowly.)

The Maytag's are much easier to pull open -- and considering Maytag's
reliability record lately, it's a good thing. ;D


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

Sears used to do repairs at the local Sears unit, but now all products
are shipped to a central repair shop. Stuff from Oregon gets shipped
nearly 1000 miles to Fontana California for repair. So you want a tune
up on your Sears mower? Believe it or not they even put lawnmowers on a
truck and ship them hundreds of miles for 20 minute repair. Over 30
percent of "repaired" items are not properly repaired or are damaged
during shipment. Pretty soon they'll be shipping to Mexico for repair.

Q (ex Sears repair man)

Charlie Bress wrote:

Along the same line, I bought a TV from Sears about a year ago and a
DVD/VCR player about 4 months ago. Both of these were not Sears brand, but
Toshiba. When I had problems with both of these and called Toshiba for
warranty service, I found that Sears had as the one who had to do repairs.
The local TV guy said that if he did it (and he is an authorized warranty
repair shop) he would not get paid because it was up to Sears. I had similar
problems in getting stuff picked up and delivered. Even when Sears called to
say the TV was fixed, they said it could not be delivered for a week. Total
BS. If the local guy had fixed it the turnaround would have been 4-5 days
instead of what worked out to 3 weeks.

Lesson learned here. Ask who does the repairs before the sale is rung up.
Sears does it. Sorry, no sale!

Charlie

If it's aWhirlpool built, I have a little experience with that, and in
mine, there is no need to take off the front to removed the water
pump. It can be done from the back (and maybe the bottom too, I don't
reember. Once the water was out, I tipped it over forwards.

Since about 1983, Whirlpool washers can't be accessed through the back
panel. Back panel is part of the main frame from which everything else
hangs. I had a customer who used a crowbar to pry the back panel back so he
could see inside to make repairs...obviously he then had to buy a new
washer.

Tom G.

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 04:21:09 GMT, "Tom"
wrote:


If it's aWhirlpool built, I have a little experience with that, and in
mine, there is no need to take off the front to removed the water
pump. It can be done from the back (and maybe the bottom too, I don't
reember. Once the water was out, I tipped it over forwards.

Since about 1983, Whirlpool washers can't be accessed through the back

Thnks. Good to know.

panel. Back panel is part of the main frame from which everything else
hangs. I had a customer who used a crowbar to pry the back panel back so he
could see inside to make repairs...obviously he then had to buy a new
washer.

That's sad, but the funny thing is that when the OP said he was trying
to pry off the front panel, I had an image of him doing just that kind
of damage to *his* washer!

Generally one shouldn't use a crowbar on appliances.

Tom G.



Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

I like to think that I am at least 'somewhat' mechanically inclined
but couldn't get the end caps to 'pop off' to save my butt. Finally
stopped for now before I did any damage. Removed a small machine
screw from both sides on the rear of the control panel which
'appeared' that they may be related to the end caps but those caps
wouldn't budge.

Shot a digital pic of one end at the URL below to show what cap is on
the end of the panel. Any thoughts?

thanks

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/WASHER.JPG

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:25:30 GMT, "Tom"
wrote:

Pop off the two end caps of the control console.

Look at the front of the console. Slide your hand along front of the
sheet metal console until it reaches the raised plastic parts on the
front corners. These are the parts that pop off. Slide a putty knife
between the front of the sheet metal console and the plastic end piece
and gently pry it up. Under there is where you will find the philips
head screws. Remove those screws, one on each side, grab the console on
the ends and slide forward about 1/2 inch then lift.

Q

cover wrote:
I like to think that I am at least 'somewhat' mechanically inclined
but couldn't get the end caps to 'pop off' to save my butt. Finally
stopped for now before I did any damage. Removed a small machine
screw from both sides on the rear of the control panel which
'appeared' that they may be related to the end caps but those caps
wouldn't budge.

Shot a digital pic of one end at the URL below to show what cap is on
the end of the panel. Any thoughts?

thanks

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/WASHER.JPG

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:25:30 GMT, "Tom"
wrote:


Pop off the two end caps of the control console.

First, put the screws you took out, back on. Now take a look at this
series of photos. As mentioned, the newer models have trim pieces over
the screws, but the screws are at the same place:

http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com/washer_repair.htm

There may not be philips head screws on your model.

On my Kenmore Elite 110.2495 there are clips that hold
the control panel to the lid. You have to open the lid to
the washer and reach between the tub and the lid to a
spot underneath the front corners of the control panel.

You will feel a semicircular clip that holds the control
panel to the lid. Squeeze it and push the front of the
clip to the rear of the washer. Once it is squeezed
enough that corner of the control panel will come free
of the lid. Repeat for the other corner.

Once both have been released lift the control panel and
then rotate it back on the hinges you show on your photo.

Then follow the rest of the instructions at the washer_repair
URL given in the previous post.


wrote in message
ups.com...
First, put the screws you took out, back on. Now take a look at this
series of photos. As mentioned, the newer models have trim pieces over
the screws, but the screws are at the same place:

http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com/washer_repair.htm