Hi

EDIT: Having finished typing, I realised this is rather a long post.
Have outlined the major questions at the bottom for those with a shorter
attention span

I'm working with a friend of mine doing up his new flat. Got all the
easy(ish) stuff out of the way - wallpaper stripping, painting etc. -
leaving us now with the kitchen and bathroom.

Flat-pack kitchen and built-under appliances (fridge, freezer, washing
machine, gas oven, gas hob, extractor fan) have arrived and we've
installed the 'normal' cabinets and worktop. Have left the rest free so
we can wire the appliances behind / underneath.

Originally his dad was gonna help with the technical stuff - electrics
and plumbing but as time drags on he is being more and more unhelpful so
we did the sink. That went fine but leaves us with the electrics.

My friend prefers a do first, ask questions later policy but with
something this major i've decided to take charge (hoping my a-level
electronics will help) Its 4pm and i haven't actually done any work
today just been reading uk.d-i-y and some websites to get an idea of
whats needed.

I just want re-assurance that this sounds OK.

The only available power in the room comes from either a) a
double-socket mounted on the wall or b) the existing cooker wiring
(cooker now removed).

My plan is to use the existing cooker wiring which I believe is a radial
circuit with a 30A fuse. The consumer unit is in a cupboard on the other
side of the kitchen.

To fix the gaping hole where the wires come out of the wall, I was going
to replace the cooker switch even though the cooker will be gas. Should
I connect the incoming electrics through this switch and out the other
side down to the other appliances or just use it as a 'blanking plate'
and 'chocolate-block' the new piece of cable to the old to run it down
the wall channel?

Next, my plan is to connect the incoming circuit into a junction box
such as....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...90408&id=15143

to split out into the correct number of cables - 1 for each appliance.
Then out from the junction box up a wall-channel to a fused switch
mounted flush with the bottom of the wall cabinets (to hide them as much
as poss).

Finally, a cable from the other side of this switch, down to the
appliance, cable-tieing / taping as neccessary to keep everything safe /
dry.

From todays research, I'm pretty sure this setup would be safe but i'd
still like your opinions. It sounds to me like the professional way to
do it would be to run a new ring from the box (since its in the same
room) but i really would rather not touch it if possible.

Help much appreciated.

[Questions:]
Is it acceptable to run fridge, freezer, extractor, washing machine
from an ex-cooker dedicated radial circuit ?

I have to replace the 'big red' cooker switch / socket to fill in the
hole in the wall but should I run it as a master switch for all
appliances or just as a blanking plate ? If the former, what's the best
way to connect the existing and new wiring - 'chocolate block' ?

Would a single junction box (as shown in URL and of correct rating)
be acceptable to provide lines for all the appliances ?

Regards
--
Pete

Pete wrote:


To fix the gaping hole where the wires come out of the wall, I was going
to replace the cooker switch even though the cooker will be gas. Should
I connect the incoming electrics through this switch and out the other
side down to the other appliances or just use it as a 'blanking plate'
and 'chocolate-block' the new piece of cable to the old to run it down
the wall channel?

Not keen on any of those really. If you are sure the switch is not
required any more, then I would suggest removing it. The cable that
currently feeds it can then be re-dedicated to your new circuit.

Next, my plan is to connect the incoming circuit into a junction box
to split out into the correct number of cables - 1 for each appliance.
Then out from the junction box up a wall-channel to a fused switch
mounted flush with the bottom of the wall cabinets (to hide them as much
as poss).

Finally, a cable from the other side of this switch, down to the
appliance, cable-tieing / taping as neccessary to keep everything safe /
dry.

Sounds messy. The "switch" you describe would need to be a switched
fused connection unit (FCU) - they are designed for connecting semi
permanent appliances like this.

The more usual way is to have the double pole isolator switch mounted
above the worktop for each appliance, each one having a cable drop sunk
into the wall that terminates in a single socket below the worktop. That
way you can just plug the appliance into the socket and still retain the
ability to switch it off without needing to move it to get to its
socket. It is also much less hassle than having to cut the plug off the
appliance feed it up through a hole in the worktop and then connect it
to your FCU

From todays research, I'm pretty sure this setup would be safe but i'd
still like your opinions. It sounds to me like the professional way to
do it would be to run a new ring from the box (since its in the same
room) but i really would rather not touch it if possible.

There is no need to actually have a ring so long as the radial has
suitable capacity cable and is correctly fused at the consumer unit. So
for example, the cooker point wiring is probably 4 or 6mm sq cable - you
would need to carry on in that size if you plan to retain the 30A fuse
at the CU. This will make the wiring very hard work. The options are to
replace the fuse with a lower rating (say 20A) and then continue the new
wiring in 2.5mm sq T&E cable, or keep the fuse, still use the 2.5mm
cable, but return the other end back to the CU as well to form a ring.

This then forces your hand a bit. Either way you will need to open the
CU! Having said that it is not that difficult. Turn off the power and
take the cover off (if it is a re-wireable fuse type you will probably
need to pull all the fuse carriers out before the cover will come off).
The bulk of the box is turned off and safe once the main switch is off.

Have a look and see if you can work out what is going on. Once you have
seen it you may feel more comfortable taking the end of the circuit back
to the fuesway to form a ring. Inside you should see a bar of screw
terminals for joining all the neutral wires to, another for the earths,
and then each of the fuesways will normally have one or two live wires
for each of the circuits. Radials will have one wire per fuse, rings
will have two.

Is it acceptable to run fridge, freezer, extractor, washing machine
from an ex-cooker dedicated radial circuit ?

Yes if done right!

I have to replace the 'big red' cooker switch / socket to fill in the
hole in the wall but should I run it as a master switch for all
appliances or just as a blanking plate ? If the former, what's the best
way to connect the existing and new wiring - 'chocolate block' ?

If you can take the cable and re-route it to the correct location for
your first appliance then go for that. Remove the cooker point switch
and fill in the hole. If you are not able to reuse the cable, strip it
out (having disconnected it from the CU!). (you can leave bits of the
old disconnected cable there if they are plastered into the wall). Now
run new cable for the new circuit.

Would a single junction box (as shown in URL and of correct rating) be
acceptable to provide lines for all the appliances ?

You can use junction boxes for extending a radial circuit with some
provisos. Firstly the box must remain accessible (because it uses screw
connections that may work loose), secondly you need to be able to get
all the wire required in there. When dealing with cooker point cable
that is not always as easy as it sounds.


--
Cheers,

John.

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