Pete wrote:


To fix the gaping hole where the wires come out of the wall, I was going
to replace the cooker switch even though the cooker will be gas. Should
I connect the incoming electrics through this switch and out the other
side down to the other appliances or just use it as a 'blanking plate'
and 'chocolate-block' the new piece of cable to the old to run it down
the wall channel?

Not keen on any of those really. If you are sure the switch is not
required any more, then I would suggest removing it. The cable that
currently feeds it can then be re-dedicated to your new circuit.

Next, my plan is to connect the incoming circuit into a junction box
to split out into the correct number of cables - 1 for each appliance.
Then out from the junction box up a wall-channel to a fused switch
mounted flush with the bottom of the wall cabinets (to hide them as much
as poss).

Finally, a cable from the other side of this switch, down to the
appliance, cable-tieing / taping as neccessary to keep everything safe /
dry.

Sounds messy. The "switch" you describe would need to be a switched
fused connection unit (FCU) - they are designed for connecting semi
permanent appliances like this.

The more usual way is to have the double pole isolator switch mounted
above the worktop for each appliance, each one having a cable drop sunk
into the wall that terminates in a single socket below the worktop. That
way you can just plug the appliance into the socket and still retain the
ability to switch it off without needing to move it to get to its
socket. It is also much less hassle than having to cut the plug off the
appliance feed it up through a hole in the worktop and then connect it
to your FCU

From todays research, I'm pretty sure this setup would be safe but i'd
still like your opinions. It sounds to me like the professional way to
do it would be to run a new ring from the box (since its in the same
room) but i really would rather not touch it if possible.

There is no need to actually have a ring so long as the radial has
suitable capacity cable and is correctly fused at the consumer unit. So
for example, the cooker point wiring is probably 4 or 6mm sq cable - you
would need to carry on in that size if you plan to retain the 30A fuse
at the CU. This will make the wiring very hard work. The options are to
replace the fuse with a lower rating (say 20A) and then continue the new
wiring in 2.5mm sq T&E cable, or keep the fuse, still use the 2.5mm
cable, but return the other end back to the CU as well to form a ring.

This then forces your hand a bit. Either way you will need to open the
CU! Having said that it is not that difficult. Turn off the power and
take the cover off (if it is a re-wireable fuse type you will probably
need to pull all the fuse carriers out before the cover will come off).
The bulk of the box is turned off and safe once the main switch is off.

Have a look and see if you can work out what is going on. Once you have
seen it you may feel more comfortable taking the end of the circuit back
to the fuesway to form a ring. Inside you should see a bar of screw
terminals for joining all the neutral wires to, another for the earths,
and then each of the fuesways will normally have one or two live wires
for each of the circuits. Radials will have one wire per fuse, rings
will have two.

Is it acceptable to run fridge, freezer, extractor, washing machine
from an ex-cooker dedicated radial circuit ?

Yes if done right!

I have to replace the 'big red' cooker switch / socket to fill in the
hole in the wall but should I run it as a master switch for all
appliances or just as a blanking plate ? If the former, what's the best
way to connect the existing and new wiring - 'chocolate block' ?

If you can take the cable and re-route it to the correct location for
your first appliance then go for that. Remove the cooker point switch
and fill in the hole. If you are not able to reuse the cable, strip it
out (having disconnected it from the CU!). (you can leave bits of the
old disconnected cable there if they are plastered into the wall). Now
run new cable for the new circuit.

Would a single junction box (as shown in URL and of correct rating) be
acceptable to provide lines for all the appliances ?

You can use junction boxes for extending a radial circuit with some
provisos. Firstly the box must remain accessible (because it uses screw
connections that may work loose), secondly you need to be able to get
all the wire required in there. When dealing with cooker point cable
that is not always as easy as it sounds.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/