Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Saw the black pipe for water question, how about the other way around?
My house has some galvanized pipe used for gas. Have had some opinions that the gas would corrode this pipe and only black is appropriate. The city indicated that using galvanized for gas was not a code violation though. -- |
#2
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Ken wrote: Saw the black pipe for water question, how about the other way around? My house has some galvanized pipe used for gas. Have had some opinions that the gas would corrode this pipe and only black is appropriate. The city indicated that using galvanized for gas was not a code violation though. -- Check Out http://www.keidel.com/mech/pvf/pipe-galvanized.htm Hope this helps, William |
#3
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Ken wrote: Saw the black pipe for water question, how about the other way around? My house has some galvanized pipe used for gas. Have had some opinions that the gas would corrode this pipe and only black is appropriate. The city indicated that using galvanized for gas was not a code violation though. -- Greetings, Galvanized steel anything only implies a protective (zinc) coating over the steel. Regardless of what the gas does to the coating, if anything, I do not see why it should continue to eat away at the steel after making its way through the coating? However, I have heard that the zinc may cause a clog as it does corrode. I have experienced clogged natural gas lines in the past so I know that this is not a theoretical concern. Hope this helps, William |
#4
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Years ago the stink additive reacted badly with galvanized pipe, so it was
forbidden for gas. However, so many people used galvanized anyhow that the utilities changed their formulation so that galvanized was okay. Around here anyhow. Check with your gas supplier and confirm it is okay with them. Who cares if the town allows it if it will damage your furnace? |
#5
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Ken" zab1116_at_yahoo.com wrote in message
news ![]() Saw the black pipe for water question, how about the other way around? My house has some galvanized pipe used for gas. Have had some opinions that the gas would corrode this pipe and only black is appropriate. The city indicated that using galvanized for gas was not a code violation though. -- I would not worry about it. Our city follows International Mechanical Code. I wish I had my code book handy so I could cite right out of the codes, but the IMC requires gas pipe installed outdoors to be painted or to use galvanized pipe. We have piped many large commercial jobs with galvanized pipe, some jobs are hundreds of feet of pipe. Now granted, you are indoors, but still it is no problem. Greg |
#6
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
This is turtle
Have Water or Gas in Black pipe or Galvanized pipe makes no difference but where you put the pipe does. TURTLE |
#7
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Call me chickens#!t, but I kinda thought the black pipe was softer, and
wouldn't spark nearly as easily, not that I remember ever seeing galvanized spark. But someone will still try to attach a grounding wire to it! Tom |
#9
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Calvin Henry-Cotnam" wrote in message
news:Q2rgf.1849$hW.463@tor-nn1... Which is better for compressed air? I would like to run a permanent line from a location where I would like to run the compressor (for noise reasons) to another room for use. Years ago, I used to work in a plastics molding plant and I seem to recall that galvanized pipe was used for the compressed air lines, but I thought I would throw the question out here to see what opinions there are. For what ever it's worth, I have never seen galvanized pipe for air in a commercial/industrial application. Not saying it does not exist, but plain black pipe is more common. I see no reason why you can not use either. Today's galvanized pipe is much cleaner than years ago so flaking should not be a concern. Greg |
#10
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I was always told that black iron pipe
joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Greg O wrote: "Calvin Henry-Cotnam" wrote in message news:Q2rgf.1849$hW.463@tor-nn1... Which is better for compressed air? I would like to run a permanent line from a location where I would like to run the compressor (for noise reasons) to another room for use. Years ago, I used to work in a plastics molding plant and I seem to recall that galvanized pipe was used for the compressed air lines, but I thought I would throw the question out here to see what opinions there are. For what ever it's worth, I have never seen galvanized pipe for air in a commercial/industrial application. Not saying it does not exist, but plain black pipe is more common. I see no reason why you can not use either. Today's galvanized pipe is much cleaner than years ago so flaking should not be a concern. Greg |
#11
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Art Todesco" wrote in message
t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg |
#12
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... |
#13
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"CBHVAC" wrote in message
... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... Really? My understanding is galvanized is nothing more than plated black pipe. Greg |
#14
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... Really? My understanding is galvanized is nothing more than plated black pipe. Greg Weigh em.... You will find the iron black will weigh much more..LOL Of course, I dont mess with it much anymore...still got my threaders and all that good stuff, but now, stainless is the way to go..we recently did a 3 story instituion, 5 units, and had all the gas piping RAN, in under 4 hours..two guys. Thats secured, ran, and all we had to do was put fittings on each end, and connect. I like that stuff....black pipe, ran the same way, would have taken about 3 days for two men to do. |
#15
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
This is Turtle.
Tom , They figured out what why the pipe weas sparking and it was not being grounded by using teflon tape and not liquid teflon. The teflon tape would not let the two pipes touch each other to comp-lete the grounds. teflon tape is banded in moset refinerry plants in the oil field. coating is the difference in the two pipes also. TURTLE |
#16
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"CBHVAC" wrote in message
... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... Really? My understanding is galvanized is nothing more than plated black pipe. Greg Weigh em.... You will find the iron black will weigh much more..LOL Of course, I dont mess with it much anymore...still got my threaders and all that good stuff, but now, stainless is the way to go..we recently did a 3 story instituion, 5 units, and had all the gas piping RAN, in under 4 hours..two guys. Thats secured, ran, and all we had to do was put fittings on each end, and connect. I like that stuff....black pipe, ran the same way, would have taken about 3 days for two men to do. We don't do much rigid pipe any more either. The last couple large commercial jobs we did all the NG in copper pipe using ProPress. We do some boiler work so the ProPress comes in handy for that, then they came out with fittings for gas, and the local inspector says if it is listed, go for it! It is about even cost wise, but much faster. http://www.ridgid.com/propresssystem/ We do a fair amount of SST, but on industrial, heavy commercial work the inspector will not allow it. Greg |
#17
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... Really? My understanding is galvanized is nothing more than plated black pipe. Greg Weigh em.... You will find the iron black will weigh much more..LOL Of course, I dont mess with it much anymore...still got my threaders and all that good stuff, but now, stainless is the way to go..we recently did a 3 story instituion, 5 units, and had all the gas piping RAN, in under 4 hours..two guys. Thats secured, ran, and all we had to do was put fittings on each end, and connect. I like that stuff....black pipe, ran the same way, would have taken about 3 days for two men to do. We don't do much rigid pipe any more either. The last couple large commercial jobs we did all the NG in copper pipe using ProPress. We do some boiler work so the ProPress comes in handy for that, then they came out with fittings for gas, and the local inspector says if it is listed, go for it! It is about even cost wise, but much faster. http://www.ridgid.com/propresssystem/ We do a fair amount of SST, but on industrial, heavy commercial work the inspector will not allow it. Greg Why wont your inspector allow it? Its certified in all lower 48 for use in commercial work. IF you want, ill pop you a mail with the local regional reps name, and he will check into it, or put you in touch with someone that will, and get you a definitive answer why. |
#18
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"CBHVAC" wrote in message
... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Art Todesco" wrote in message t... I was always told that black iron pipe joints are "tighter" because the threads grind into one another and that this doesn't happen in galvanized pipe. Black iron was supposed to be "softer" whatever that means. As I said, this is what I heard. I really never believed/understood it.. Sounds like BS to me. When you cut threads on galvanized pipe it cuts off the galvanized coating, leaving bare metal, same as black pipe. Greg yea..but you are talking about two different metals too... Really? My understanding is galvanized is nothing more than plated black pipe. Greg Weigh em.... You will find the iron black will weigh much more..LOL Of course, I dont mess with it much anymore...still got my threaders and all that good stuff, but now, stainless is the way to go..we recently did a 3 story instituion, 5 units, and had all the gas piping RAN, in under 4 hours..two guys. Thats secured, ran, and all we had to do was put fittings on each end, and connect. I like that stuff....black pipe, ran the same way, would have taken about 3 days for two men to do. We don't do much rigid pipe any more either. The last couple large commercial jobs we did all the NG in copper pipe using ProPress. We do some boiler work so the ProPress comes in handy for that, then they came out with fittings for gas, and the local inspector says if it is listed, go for it! It is about even cost wise, but much faster. http://www.ridgid.com/propresssystem/ We do a fair amount of SST, but on industrial, heavy commercial work the inspector will not allow it. Greg Why wont your inspector allow it? Its certified in all lower 48 for use in commercial work. IF you want, ill pop you a mail with the local regional reps name, and he will check into it, or put you in touch with someone that will, and get you a definitive answer why. We can use SST in commercial situations, office buildings, small warehouses, that type of thing but not in a heavy equipment repair shop for example. No big deal, we just use what we can, and bill accordingly! Greg |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
In Deep Sh*t.... | UK diy | |||
Leaking Soil Pipe? | UK diy | |||
oily taste in galvanized pipe. How to best remove it? | Home Repair | |||
electricity on my water pipes | Home Repair | |||
Sewer line replacement | Home Ownership |