About a month ago I started the following thread, asking for help on how
to sort out a leaking soil pipe:

http://tinyurl.com/b85ll

....which culminated in:

Lobster wrote:

fred wrote:

Right dave get on with it then ;-)

Thanks again! Yes I suppose I'd better, hadn't I! I won't be able do
so now until early next week (don't worry, soil pipe is now out of
service!) so stand by for panicked cries for help after I've cut the
pipe and it turns out that all assumptions made were wrong.... ;-)

Well, here I am finally, with panicked cries for help!

The 'steel' soil downpipe has turned out to be copper, extraordinary
though that may seem. I cut through it about 3' from the floor, and was
able to pull the end out from the busted clay pipe which I cleaned up.
However, the OD of the copper pipe is 93mm (ID of the clay pipe it fits
into is 95mm), and I cannot find any kwickfit type device to fit it.
The PMs I've been to sratch their heads and suggest I rip the whole lot
out and replace with modern plastic, which I'd really rather not: would
be a lot of work (the pipe goes right up through the first floor and
throught the roof.

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

I could probably sort out the base by making shuttering around it and
filling with lots of mortar - as someone said I should have done in the
first place :-( - but that leaves the problem of rejoining the cut ends.

This pipe is internal to the house, and permanently boxed in, so the
solution has to be a good one - can't risk leaks or seal failure.

Would be eternally grateful for any ideas!
David

I'd put another length of clay pipe into the one in the ground and
another piece in that to make up the distance, if you can find stuff of
the right diameter.

Another way around is to locate a piece of pipe that will do it, from a
scrap yard or a metal fabricator's. I am assuming there is no plastic
bit that will join the two.

After that it is a matter of aesthetics. Can you hide the bodge with a
flower tub or some-such?

Plan C: Run a new length all the way up, outside the house and bring
all the interior plumbing out to that. That way you can use modern push
fit stuff to replace the lot. A small payback is that you can get rid
of the old boxing in later and reclaim some of the bathroom/WC etc.

"Lobster" wrote in message
...

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

Do you know anyone that can make good wiped solder joints?

In article , Lobster
writes
Well, here I am finally, with panicked cries for help!

The 'steel' soil downpipe has turned out to be copper, extraordinary
though that may seem. I cut through it about 3' from the floor, and was
able to pull the end out from the busted clay pipe which I cleaned up.
However, the OD of the copper pipe is 93mm (ID of the clay pipe it fits
into is 95mm), and I cannot find any kwickfit type device to fit it.
The PMs I've been to sratch their heads and suggest I rip the whole lot
out and replace with modern plastic, which I'd really rather not: would
be a lot of work (the pipe goes right up through the first floor and
throught the roof.

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

Is it the clay end that you can't get a kwickfit into or a mate for the copper?
My soil pipes here (plastic & clay) are 100mm i/d, could a kwickfit for that
mate with your 95mm one? The other end is easier as you could use a
rubber adaptor to make a joint between plastic & copper. I'm thinking of a
kwickfit extension piece along the lines of BES code 12716.

Thanks for the quote btw, all my fault then ;-)
--
fred

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
About a month ago I started the following thread, asking for help on how
to sort out a leaking soil pipe:

http://tinyurl.com/b85ll

...which culminated in:

Lobster wrote:

fred wrote:

Right dave get on with it then ;-)

Thanks again! Yes I suppose I'd better, hadn't I! I won't be able do
so now until early next week (don't worry, soil pipe is now out of
service!) so stand by for panicked cries for help after I've cut the
pipe and it turns out that all assumptions made were wrong.... ;-)

Well, here I am finally, with panicked cries for help!

The 'steel' soil downpipe has turned out to be copper, extraordinary
though that may seem. I cut through it about 3' from the floor, and was
able to pull the end out from the busted clay pipe which I cleaned up.
However, the OD of the copper pipe is 93mm (ID of the clay pipe it fits
into is 95mm), and I cannot find any kwickfit type device to fit it.
The PMs I've been to sratch their heads and suggest I rip the whole lot
out and replace with modern plastic, which I'd really rather not: would
be a lot of work (the pipe goes right up through the first floor and
throught the roof.

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

I could probably sort out the base by making shuttering around it and
filling with lots of mortar - as someone said I should have done in the
first place :-( - but that leaves the problem of rejoining the cut ends.

This pipe is internal to the house, and permanently boxed in, so the
solution has to be a good one - can't risk leaks or seal failure.

Would be eternally grateful for any ideas!
David

I'm not sure I fully understand your situation, but as one poster has
mentioned,
you could get a stick of plumber's solder a a greasy rag and make a 'wiped'
joint between the two lengths of copper pipe, as long as you can access the
pipe easily through 360 degrees.

For the copper pipe to clay, it depends on the situation, but here is an
idea that
might work. Get a glazed clay pipe-to-plastic adapter ( B&Q, £4.50 ) which
connects into
the flanged end of the clay pipe by being cemented in position. Then, on the
other
end of the adapter put a plastic-to-glazed clay pipe adapter (£9). This
mimics the
large flanged end of a glazed clay pipe. The beauty of that is that the
central hole
is 100mm, so you can slide your copper pipe down the centre of it, then
connect
the two by filling the flange with mortar. If you find it hard to visualise,
the two adapters I'm
talking about will form what is in effect a very short length of glazed clay
pipe, only in plastic,
and able to be fixed to clay pipes just like it is one. Of course, you have
copper at one end,
but my soil system outside had a glazed clay pipe joined with mortar direct
to a 4" cast
iron soil pipe and that was sound for 65 years.

Another adapter that may be of use is the universal waste adapter, which
fits
plastic fittings on one end, and the other is about 90mm diameter with a
rubber
multiple flange seal. This could be used to concoct another sort of
solution. For
instance, it will adapt your clay pipe to plastic, and it will also adapt
your copper
pipe to plastic in all probability.

Thyere are 100mm rubber cast-iron to plastic adapters etc, but I don't know
if they'll
shrink to 93mm.

Andy

4" wide lead flashing (not the sticky kind) wrapped once around forming
a capillary joint with plumber's solder and a BIG blowtorch applied.

In article . com,
"Phil" says...
4" wide lead flashing (not the sticky kind) wrapped once around forming
a capillary joint with plumber's solder and a BIG blowtorch applied.


I'd have thought a strip of copper sheet would be a better idea.
You're unlikely to be able to form an effective capillary joint, but
you could run enough solder down from the top to create a good
seal/mechanical joint. As you say, lots of heat required.

Lobster wrote:

About a month ago I started the following thread, asking for help on how
to sort out a leaking soil pipe:

http://tinyurl.com/b85ll

...which culminated in:

Lobster wrote:

fred wrote:

Right dave get on with it then ;-)

Thanks again! Yes I suppose I'd better, hadn't I! I won't be able do
so now until early next week (don't worry, soil pipe is now out of
service!) so stand by for panicked cries for help after I've cut the
pipe and it turns out that all assumptions made were wrong.... ;-)

Well, here I am finally, with panicked cries for help!

The 'steel' soil downpipe has turned out to be copper, extraordinary
though that may seem. I cut through it about 3' from the floor, and was
able to pull the end out from the busted clay pipe which I cleaned up.
However, the OD of the copper pipe is 93mm (ID of the clay pipe it fits
into is 95mm), and I cannot find any kwickfit type device to fit it. The
PMs I've been to sratch their heads and suggest I rip the whole lot out
and replace with modern plastic, which I'd really rather not: would be a
lot of work (the pipe goes right up through the first floor and throught
the roof.

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

I could probably sort out the base by making shuttering around it and
filling with lots of mortar - as someone said I should have done in the
first place :-( - but that leaves the problem of rejoining the cut ends.

This pipe is internal to the house, and permanently boxed in, so the
solution has to be a good one - can't risk leaks or seal failure.

Would be eternally grateful for any ideas!
David


I would say dry everything thoroughly and make up joints by wrapping
with heavy glass cloth soaked in polyester resin and a leyer of car body
filler over the top to seal any microcracks.

Halfords has all the **** you beneed.

In article , "The
Natural Philosopher" says...
Lobster wrote:

About a month ago I started the following thread, asking for help on how
to sort out a leaking soil pipe:

http://tinyurl.com/b85ll

...which culminated in:

Lobster wrote:

fred wrote:

Right dave get on with it then ;-)

Thanks again! Yes I suppose I'd better, hadn't I! I won't be able do
so now until early next week (don't worry, soil pipe is now out of
service!) so stand by for panicked cries for help after I've cut the
pipe and it turns out that all assumptions made were wrong.... ;-)

Well, here I am finally, with panicked cries for help!

The 'steel' soil downpipe has turned out to be copper, extraordinary
though that may seem. I cut through it about 3' from the floor, and was
able to pull the end out from the busted clay pipe which I cleaned up.
However, the OD of the copper pipe is 93mm (ID of the clay pipe it fits
into is 95mm), and I cannot find any kwickfit type device to fit it. The
PMs I've been to sratch their heads and suggest I rip the whole lot out
and replace with modern plastic, which I'd really rather not: would be a
lot of work (the pipe goes right up through the first floor and throught
the roof.

I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and
rejoin/seal the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

I could probably sort out the base by making shuttering around it and
filling with lots of mortar - as someone said I should have done in the
first place :-( - but that leaves the problem of rejoining the cut ends.

This pipe is internal to the house, and permanently boxed in, so the
solution has to be a good one - can't risk leaks or seal failure.

Would be eternally grateful for any ideas!
David


I would say dry everything thoroughly and make up joints by wrapping
with heavy glass cloth soaked in polyester resin and a leyer of car body
filler over the top to seal any microcracks.

Halfords has all the **** you beneed.


Probably considerably cheaper from a scruffy back-street car spares
emporium though.

Lobster wrote on 01/08/2005 :
I need to seal one end of the copper pipe to the clay pipe, and rejoin/seal
the other end back to the fixed copper pipe, where I cut it.

I could probably sort out the base by making shuttering around it and filling
with lots of mortar - as someone said I should have done in the first place
:-( - but that leaves the problem of rejoining the cut ends.

To join up the copper to copper-

1. Clean up both ends carefully down to bare copper and tin them with
plumbers flux and solder.
2. get hold of a thin strip of easily bendable copper strip (also
cleaned up) and tin this.
3. Wrap the strip tightly around the joint with an overlap, fixed
temporarily with Jubilee clips, then heat it adding more solder to fill
in all the gaps.

To seal the copper to the base, the morter sounds good, but I would be
inclined to suggest-

Flaring the end of the copper pipe first to provide a flat lip - so
that you can perhaps fit a thick O ring to provide the primary seal.
Then a good thick covering of mortar over the top.

You can flare copper pipe quite easily, if you simply hit it gently
with a hammer, on the corner of an anvil - working it a little at a
time.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org