What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?


Thanks for any comments or advice !!


--James--

James Nipper wrote:
What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Smoothing sharp or rough edges on metal things.

Cutting off rusted or rounded off nuts and bolts.

Cutting and/or shaping a few ceramic tiles (Using a "masonry" disk.)

Cutting almost any hard material in a place where you can't fit other tools.

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

Works for me...

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?

"Generally" no. U figger that one out...

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

"James Nipper" wrote in message
news



I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there
any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?

4-1/2 is big enough for pretty much everyone.
Tim the Toolman Taylor may need the 7" grinder, but few people do!
The smaller grinder is much easier to handle. I would not get a larger one
unless you plan on opening a welding shop!
Greg

the big grinders will wear you out pretty fast. Unless you're welding ships
or
something, I'd go with the 4 incher. The good quality ones with high amp
motors have plenty of power.

bill

"James Nipper" wrote in message
news


What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there
any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?


Thanks for any comments or advice !!


--James--

These are all super replies, and I thank you all very much !! I am sure
the 4 inch one will be fine for me. They sure seem like a handy tool to
have in an average home workshop !

Thanks again !!

--james--

"James Nipper" wrote in message
news


What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

there is probably a better tool for sharpening mower blades



I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there
any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?

more detail can be accessed with a smaller diameter grinding wheel

a larger grinding wheel (on an angle grinder with higher amp rating/more
powerful motor) would cover more area faster than a smaller grinding wheel

those with higher amp ratings generally should be able to drive a larger
grinding wheel (higher amp rating = more powerful motor)

a 4" grinder has draws enough amps to run a 4" grinding wheel, but not
enough to run a 7" grinding wheel properly over time

a 7" grinder can run a 7" grinding wheel, or if it can be attached, a 4"
grinding wheel





Thanks for any comments or advice !!


--James--

"effi" wrote in message
...
"James Nipper" wrote in message
news


What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

there is probably a better tool for sharpening mower blades

Belt sander quick and easy.

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there
any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?

My wife prefers the 7 inch size

In article , "James Nipper"
wrote:

These are all super replies, and I thank you all very much !! I am sure
the 4 inch one will be fine for me. They sure seem like a handy tool to
have in an average home workshop !

Thanks again !!

Get a diamond blade for one and you can do quick cuts on tile too.

charles

I needed to cut up an old hospital bed frame and some other old steel stuff
to fit into a trash barrel and Home Deppot had a sale on angle grinders
and were out of stock I bought their bottom dollar 4 or 4.5 angle
grinder on recommendation of the sales clerk who picked out the cut wheels
too .. Real helpful knowledgeable guy, knew all about angle grinders.

He wasn't there when I went back an hour or so later to buy a dozen or so of
these quickly exploding cutting blades and I found a skinny one that lasts
darn near forever, cuts lickity split too. Figured out he had sold me
grinding wheels and boy are they dangerous when used to cut through hard
stuff at high rpm. Might want to be careful with those things until you
figure them out !

"James Nipper" wrote in message
...


These are all super replies, and I thank you all very much !! I am sure
the 4 inch one will be fine for me. They sure seem like a handy tool to
have in an average home workshop !

Thanks again !!

--james--

On Sat, 08 Jan 2005 20:26:44 GMT, "Martik" wrote:



I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there
any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?

My wife prefers the 7 inch size

Mine too.

The two or three times I've used an angle grinder, the one was to remove
wood from the bottom of a door. I know a jack plane was the right tool. I do
have one, and used it. but it doesn't plane the end grain very well. A belt
sander is the correct tool, bu I don't own one. So, the angle grinder came
out of the box. Use light pressure, adn keep the wheel moving, cause
otherwise it smokes.

The other was when I was trying to get my trailer to hitch to the ball on
the van. Well, the safety cables wouldn't go into the holes in the bumper.
too small of hooks. So, I used the angle grinder to remove some metal.

I plan to use the angle grinder some time next summer. My church has a girls
camp, which has a barn. The barn has several posts with big bolts sticking
through. The plan is to crank down the bolts good and tight. Take the excess
bolt off with a sawzall, and then smooth it out with Mr. Angle Grinder.

I think I paid $15 for mine from Harbor Fright, and worth every penny.

--

Christopher A. Young
This space intentionally left blank
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"James Nipper" wrote in message
news

What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is there any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?


Thanks for any comments or advice !!


--James--

James Nipper wrote:
What are some of the common uses for an angle grinder to the average
do-it-yourselfer?

Is is good for use to sharpen mower blades ?

I see they commonly have 4 1/4 inch and 7 inch sizes. Is
there any
common reason why one is generally better than the other ?


Thanks for any comments or advice !!


--James--

After I got my battery powered drill I never use a screwdriver anymore.
After I got my 4 1/2" angle grinder I never use a hacksaw or file
anymore.
Both are great labor saving tools that you wonder how you ever done
without.

Bob S.

"James Nipper" wrote in message
...


These are all super replies, and I thank you all very much !! I am sure
the 4 inch one will be fine for me. They sure seem like a handy tool to
have in an average home workshop !

Thanks again !!

--james--



While an angle grinder is handy for some things I would not use one for
sharpening a lawn mower. For this task I would suggest a bench grinder.
This would be much easier to get a good edge and you need to balance the
blade after sharpening anyway, (Or risk buggering up your bearing or shaft
on the motor.) so sharpening the blade on the mower is not really a good
option.

If you did want to sharpen a mower blade with an angle grinder, secure the
blade in a vise and try to maintain the proper angle on the grind. Or just
rough it in and finish with a file.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
The two or three times I've used an angle grinder, the one was to remove
wood from the bottom of a door. I know a jack plane was the right tool. I
do
have one, and used it. but it doesn't plane the end grain very well. A
belt
sander is the correct tool, bu I don't own one. So, the angle grinder came
out of the box. Use light pressure, adn keep the wheel moving, cause
otherwise it smokes.

What I might suggest next time you need to trim the bottom of a door is to
clamp a straight edge to the door and use that to guide the skill saw. Also
be sure to paint the bottom of the door you just cut. A coat of primer
works fine. The idea here is to keep the end grain sealed to prevent door
swell.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...


While an angle grinder is handy for some things I would not use one for
sharpening a lawn mower. For this task I would suggest a bench grinder.
This would be much easier to get a good edge and you need to balance the
blade after sharpening anyway, (Or risk buggering up your bearing or shaft
on the motor.) so sharpening the blade on the mower is not really a good
option.

If you did want to sharpen a mower blade with an angle grinder, secure the
blade in a vise and try to maintain the proper angle on the grind. Or
just
rough it in and finish with a file.

--

I have been sharpening mower blades with a 4-1/2" angle grinder for years.
Clamp the blade in a vice and go for it. When I am done the blade looks like
it was done on a machine. With very little practice you can do a very nice
job sharpening a mower blade with an angle grinder.
Remember, we are gutting grass here, this is not some high tech sharpening
job. No need for a razor blade edge, after ten minutes in the grass the
blade is some what dull already.
Get a blade balancer and you are set.
Greg

"James Nipper" wrote in message
...


These are all super replies, and I thank you all very much !! I am sure
the 4 inch one will be fine for me. They sure seem like a handy tool to
have in an average home workshop !

Thanks again !!

--james--



CAVEAT (caps intentional)

Caveat means warning!

I have welded since 1974. One of the most hazardous tools I have ever seen
is a right angle grinder. And I mean ANY angle grinder, even a small die
grinder. A lot of them spin in the 14,000 rpm range, and any time you get
something spinning that fast a lot can happen.

Materials can fly off. Either particles of the wheel, pieces of metal that
are removed, pieces of wire brush, lots of nasty things flying at a high
velocity.

The tool can "kick", that is, if you put the wheel onto the workpiece at the
wrong angle or direction, the tool can fly back at you with incredible
force. Or, the workpiece can go flying the other direction.

These little boogers are as nasty as a badger, and anyone who knows what a
badger is like understands that statement. For those who don't know what a
badger is, imagine wrestling with a chain saw. They will eat you up and
spit out small pieces. You will lose ....... it will win. EVERY time.

If you are new to operating one of these, pay very strict attention to how
you place the wheel on the work, particularly when using wire brush wheels,
as they tend to grab more than a solid wheel. Imagine you are holding the
tool with the wheel down, and the wheel is a clock. The end of the tool
with the cord coming out of it is toward you. The end with the wheel is
away from you. Almost all of the work should take place between 11:30
position and 12:30 position where you want to touch the work. When the
revolving part of the tool contacts the workpiece in any other part of the
clock, the likelihood of a kick increases. As your experience and skill
goes up and you get the hang of it, you can to to the other positions of the
clock, but start there. Understand what causes a kick or what causes the
workpiece to be spit out, and adjust your contact point accordingly.

Use the handle provided until you learn the behavior of this little beast.
It is advisable but not necessary to use gloves, and I like light ones where
I can hold the grinder tightly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. If you use the
wire brushes, you will normally be picking pieces of wire out of your face
and other exposed body parts. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES. I'll say
that again. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES.

The angle grinder can do amazing things. It can also cut off a finger in a
flash before you really master the thing. It can catch your clothing, and
wind you up in a ball in an instant. I have had scores of incidents in
hundreds of hours of using this tool, none of them really major. Bruises,
some lost hide, but nothing really bad. I have heard some really really bad
stories, though, and believe every one of them. These are nasty mean little
*******s, and they don't fight fair.

This thing has a learning curve, so go slow.

Steve

Excellent post !!!
I would add that if you get the grinder caught and it jumps........stop it
and check to see if the disk cracked or if a chunk is missing.
If it is cracked or missing a piece......take it off and THROW IT AWAY !!!
Install a new disk and try again.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)

One of the most hazardous tools I have ever seen is a right angle grinder.

CAVEAT (caps intentional)

Caveat means warning!

I have welded since 1974. And I mean ANY angle grinder, even a small die
grinder. A lot of them spin in the 14,000 rpm range, and any time you get
something spinning that fast a lot can happen.

Materials can fly off. Either particles of the wheel, pieces of metal that
are removed, pieces of wire brush, lots of nasty things flying at a high
velocity.

The tool can "kick", that is, if you put the wheel onto the workpiece at the
wrong angle or direction, the tool can fly back at you with incredible
force. Or, the workpiece can go flying the other direction.

These little boogers are as nasty as a badger, and anyone who knows what a
badger is like understands that statement. For those who don't know what a
badger is, imagine wrestling with a chain saw. They will eat you up and
spit out small pieces. You will lose ....... it will win. EVERY time.

If you are new to operating one of these, pay very strict attention to how
you place the wheel on the work, particularly when using wire brush wheels,
as they tend to grab more than a solid wheel. Imagine you are holding the
tool with the wheel down, and the wheel is a clock. The end of the tool
with the cord coming out of it is toward you. The end with the wheel is
away from you. Almost all of the work should take place between 11:30
position and 12:30 position where you want to touch the work. When the
revolving part of the tool contacts the workpiece in any other part of the
clock, the likelihood of a kick increases. As your experience and skill
goes up and you get the hang of it, you can to to the other positions of the
clock, but start there. Understand what causes a kick or what causes the
workpiece to be spit out, and adjust your contact point accordingly.

Use the handle provided until you learn the behavior of this little beast.
It is advisable but not necessary to use gloves, and I like light ones where
I can hold the grinder tightly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. If you use the
wire brushes, you will normally be picking pieces of wire out of your face
and other exposed body parts. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES. I'll say
that again. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES.

The angle grinder can do amazing things. It can also cut off a finger in a
flash before you really master the thing. It can catch your clothing, and
wind you up in a ball in an instant. I have had scores of incidents in
hundreds of hours of using this tool, none of them really major. Bruises,
some lost hide, but nothing really bad. I have heard some really really bad
stories, though, and believe every one of them. These are nasty mean little
*******s, and they don't fight fair.

This thing has a learning curve, so go slow.

Steve

This is a great follow up on the hazards. I purchased an angle
grinder a few months ago. Although I do not use it frequently, I do
find it valuable, especially for cut off work. However, I do consider
it one of my more dangerous power hand tools, and always use it with
a "think twice" respect. Your post does a great job of bringing out
some of the hazards I have already recognized, and a couple I have
not.Thanks!



CAVEAT (caps intentional)

Caveat means warning!

I have welded since 1974. One of the most hazardous tools I have ever seen
is a right angle grinder. And I mean ANY angle grinder, even a small die
grinder. A lot of them spin in the 14,000 rpm range, and any time you get
something spinning that fast a lot can happen.

Materials can fly off. Either particles of the wheel, pieces of metal that
are removed, pieces of wire brush, lots of nasty things flying at a high
velocity.

The tool can "kick", that is, if you put the wheel onto the workpiece at the
wrong angle or direction, the tool can fly back at you with incredible
force. Or, the workpiece can go flying the other direction.

These little boogers are as nasty as a badger, and anyone who knows what a
badger is like understands that statement. For those who don't know what a
badger is, imagine wrestling with a chain saw. They will eat you up and
spit out small pieces. You will lose ....... it will win. EVERY time.

If you are new to operating one of these, pay very strict attention to how
you place the wheel on the work, particularly when using wire brush wheels,
as they tend to grab more than a solid wheel. Imagine you are holding the
tool with the wheel down, and the wheel is a clock. The end of the tool
with the cord coming out of it is toward you. The end with the wheel is
away from you. Almost all of the work should take place between 11:30
position and 12:30 position where you want to touch the work. When the
revolving part of the tool contacts the workpiece in any other part of the
clock, the likelihood of a kick increases. As your experience and skill
goes up and you get the hang of it, you can to to the other positions of the
clock, but start there. Understand what causes a kick or what causes the
workpiece to be spit out, and adjust your contact point accordingly.

Use the handle provided until you learn the behavior of this little beast.
It is advisable but not necessary to use gloves, and I like light ones where
I can hold the grinder tightly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. If you use the
wire brushes, you will normally be picking pieces of wire out of your face
and other exposed body parts. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES. I'll say
that again. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES.

The angle grinder can do amazing things. It can also cut off a finger in a
flash before you really master the thing. It can catch your clothing, and
wind you up in a ball in an instant. I have had scores of incidents in
hundreds of hours of using this tool, none of them really major. Bruises,
some lost hide, but nothing really bad. I have heard some really really bad
stories, though, and believe every one of them. These are nasty mean little
*******s, and they don't fight fair.

This thing has a learning curve, so go slow.

Steve


Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.attbi.com/~dyrgcmn/

They are great for starting small surprise fires. :-)

"Gary Dyrkacz" wrote in message
...
This is a great follow up on the hazards. I purchased an angle
grinder a few months ago. Although I do not use it frequently, I do
find it valuable, especially for cut off work. However, I do consider
it one of my more dangerous power hand tools, and always use it with
a "think twice" respect. Your post does a great job of bringing out
some of the hazards I have already recognized, and a couple I have
not.Thanks!



CAVEAT (caps intentional)

Caveat means warning!

I have welded since 1974. One of the most hazardous tools I have ever
seen
is a right angle grinder. And I mean ANY angle grinder, even a small die
grinder. A lot of them spin in the 14,000 rpm range, and any time you get
something spinning that fast a lot can happen.

Materials can fly off. Either particles of the wheel, pieces of metal
that
are removed, pieces of wire brush, lots of nasty things flying at a high
velocity.

The tool can "kick", that is, if you put the wheel onto the workpiece at
the
wrong angle or direction, the tool can fly back at you with incredible
force. Or, the workpiece can go flying the other direction.

These little boogers are as nasty as a badger, and anyone who knows what a
badger is like understands that statement. For those who don't know what
a
badger is, imagine wrestling with a chain saw. They will eat you up and
spit out small pieces. You will lose ....... it will win. EVERY time.

If you are new to operating one of these, pay very strict attention to how
you place the wheel on the work, particularly when using wire brush
wheels,
as they tend to grab more than a solid wheel. Imagine you are holding the
tool with the wheel down, and the wheel is a clock. The end of the tool
with the cord coming out of it is toward you. The end with the wheel is
away from you. Almost all of the work should take place between 11:30
position and 12:30 position where you want to touch the work. When the
revolving part of the tool contacts the workpiece in any other part of the
clock, the likelihood of a kick increases. As your experience and skill
goes up and you get the hang of it, you can to to the other positions of
the
clock, but start there. Understand what causes a kick or what causes the
workpiece to be spit out, and adjust your contact point accordingly.

Use the handle provided until you learn the behavior of this little beast.
It is advisable but not necessary to use gloves, and I like light ones
where
I can hold the grinder tightly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. If you use the
wire brushes, you will normally be picking pieces of wire out of your face
and other exposed body parts. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES. I'll say
that again. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES.

The angle grinder can do amazing things. It can also cut off a finger in
a
flash before you really master the thing. It can catch your clothing, and
wind you up in a ball in an instant. I have had scores of incidents in
hundreds of hours of using this tool, none of them really major. Bruises,
some lost hide, but nothing really bad. I have heard some really really
bad
stories, though, and believe every one of them. These are nasty mean
little
*******s, and they don't fight fair.

This thing has a learning curve, so go slow.

Steve


Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.attbi.com/~dyrgcmn/

On Sat, 08 Jan 2005 20:58:15 -0800, Roger Shoaf wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
The two or three times I've used an angle grinder, the one was to remove
wood from the bottom of a door. I know a jack plane was the right tool. I
do
have one, and used it. but it doesn't plane the end grain very well. A
belt
sander is the correct tool, bu I don't own one. So, the angle grinder came
out of the box. Use light pressure, adn keep the wheel moving, cause
otherwise it smokes.

What I might suggest next time you need to trim the bottom of a door is to
clamp a straight edge to the door and use that to guide the skill saw.

I prefer a router (with a strait edge clamped, as you suggest) for
trimming doors. If need be I'll chamfer the edges slightly to clean 'em
up.

Also
be sure to paint the bottom of the door you just cut. A coat of primer
works fine. The idea here is to keep the end grain sealed to prevent
door swell.

If the door was sealed to begin with. Mine are simply stained and not
sealed. :-(

--
Keith

"JerryD(upstateNY)" wrote in message
. ..
Excellent post !!!
I would add that if you get the grinder caught and it jumps........stop it
and check to see if the disk cracked or if a chunk is missing.
If it is cracked or missing a piece......take it off and THROW IT AWAY !!!
Install a new disk and try again.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)

And thank YOU for your VERY good post on a most important point I totally
missed. Angle grinders have a lot of things to consider.

I buy my small grinding wheels at HF. The ones they have for 99 cents work
as good for me as those expensive Makita ones. But when it comes to wire
wheels, I spend the bucks and get Makitas.

IMPORTANT- The older and more worn a wire wheel is, the more wire shards it
spits out. When the wires get worn about half down on a cup knot brush,
toss it. When the wires get about a third worn down on a straight wire
brush, toss it. I have pulled more wires out of my face, hands, arms, and
shirt than I can count. I have even found them embedded in tarps and
drywall close to where I was working.

As an added caveat to your post, I like to lay my grinder on its back or
side, and not down on the wheel. They are easy to crack, and the pieces go
flying.

Thanks, Jerry.

Steve

I normally don't recommend cheap tools, but here goes anyway...

Four years ago - in a pinch - I bought a 4in angle grinder from Harbor
Freight for around $19. I subsequently used this tool to do a huge
amount of metal cutting on an old Mercedes I restored. This job
entailed hour upon hour of cutting, sanding, and wire wheel work using
that little rascal. Since then, I've used the same tool for scores of
jobs including cutting all the rebar for the foundation of a house
we're now building. Like the Energizer Bunny, this thing just keeps on
going. It hasn't even burned through the original set of brushes, but
HF tossed in an extra set to cover that eventuality. This is one tool
no shop should be without. Be careful though, it's an easy one to get
hurt with. I heard of a guy setting one down on the bench while it was
still spinning, only to have it whip around and slice open his gut.
Thrown debris and exploding cut-off wheels are also par for the course
- wear goggles or a mask and work gloves.
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA

On 11 Jan 2005 13:50:09 -0800, "Rich-out-West"
wrote:

I normally don't recommend cheap tools, but here goes anyway...

Four years ago - in a pinch - I bought a 4in angle grinder from Harbor
Freight for around $19. I subsequently used this tool to do a huge
amount of metal cutting on an old Mercedes I restored. This job
entailed hour upon hour of cutting, sanding, and wire wheel work using
that little rascal. Since then, I've used the same tool for scores of
jobs including cutting all the rebar for the foundation of a house
we're now building. Like the Energizer Bunny, this thing just keeps on
going. It hasn't even burned through the original set of brushes, but
HF tossed in an extra set to cover that eventuality. This is one tool
no shop should be without. Be careful though, it's an easy one to get
hurt with. I heard of a guy setting one down on the bench while it was
still spinning, only to have it whip around and slice open his gut.
Thrown debris and exploding cut-off wheels are also par for the course
- wear goggles or a mask and work gloves.
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA

At work I just received a safety report that I think came from the
Australia version of OSHA on a fatal accident with an angle grinder.
The accident was still under investigation according to the report.
Apparently an individual was using the grinder with a wheel (not sure
of type) that was not designed for the grinder. The result was the
wheel exploded and pieces penetrated the individuals chest and
abdomen, killing him. He apparently was also either not using the
gaurd or was using in improperly.

Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.attbi.com/~dyrgcmn/

- Rich-out-West -
Four years ago - in a pinch - I bought a 4in angle grinder from Harbor
Freight for around $19. I subsequently used this tool to do a huge
amount of metal cutting on an old Mercedes I restored. This job
entailed hour upon hour of cutting, sanding, and wire wheel work using
that little rascal. Since then, I've used the same tool for scores of
jobs including cutting all the rebar for the foundation of a house
we're now building. Like the Energizer Bunny, this thing just keeps
on
going. It hasn't even burned through the original set of brushes, but
HF tossed in an extra set to cover that eventuality. This is one tool
no shop should be without. Be careful though, it's an easy one to get
hurt with. I heard of a guy setting one down on the bench while it
was
still spinning, only to have it whip around and slice open his gut.
Thrown debris and exploding cut-off wheels are also par for the course
- wear goggles or a mask and work gloves.

- Nehmo -
They keep running alright, but I think the metal gear housing on the
front is more fragile than that on a higher-end brand models. Once, I
got a 4 1/2" Chicago Electric one
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31309
After extensive use and several drops, after a big drop, it broke. I
immediately bought another angle grinder at the nearest store, which
wasn't HF. Then I got another and another, always 4 1/2". You really
need more than one, at least two, because the wheels are a pain to
change. Anyway, one day I disassembled the old CE, cleaned (lots of
debris inside), squirted some grease in, and then reassembled. For some
reason, it now works again, but it's still cracked. I keep it with a
brass cup-brush.

I have a toolbox with two angle grinders, B&D
http://media.doitbest.com/products/300705.gif and Ryobi
http://snipurl.com/by73 (I only moved up a little from CE) and some
accessories. One grinder has a diamond blade and the other has a stone.
I carry this toolbox *almost* everywhere I go.

The caveat I can add is that if you use an angle grinder while on a
ladder, you should be prepared for the tool to grab and perhaps disturb
your balance.

--
*********************
* Nehmo Sergheyev *
*********************

sears has a 6.5 amp 4 to 9 inch right angle grinder for $24.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=00 911510000
(that's more amps than my 5.0 amp makita 4" angle grinder that cost $60)


"Rich-out-West" wrote in message
ps.com...
I normally don't recommend cheap tools, but here goes anyway...

Four years ago - in a pinch - I bought a 4in angle grinder from Harbor
Freight for around $19. I subsequently used this tool to do a huge
amount of metal cutting on an old Mercedes I restored. This job
entailed hour upon hour of cutting, sanding, and wire wheel work using
that little rascal. Since then, I've used the same tool for scores of
jobs including cutting all the rebar for the foundation of a house
we're now building. Like the Energizer Bunny, this thing just keeps on
going. It hasn't even burned through the original set of brushes, but
HF tossed in an extra set to cover that eventuality. This is one tool
no shop should be without. Be careful though, it's an easy one to get
hurt with. I heard of a guy setting one down on the bench while it was
still spinning, only to have it whip around and slice open his gut.
Thrown debris and exploding cut-off wheels are also par for the course
- wear goggles or a mask and work gloves.
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA

"effi" wrote in message
...
sears has a 6.5 amp 4 to 9 inch right angle grinder for $24.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=00 911510000
(that's more amps than my 5.0 amp makita 4" angle grinder that cost $60)


sears amps, like those horsepower claims on shopvacs and tools, are smaller
than regular amps used in the real world. further, using more amps is not
necessarily a good thing, it just might mean it's less efficient.

"Rich-out-West" wrote in message
ps.com...
I normally don't recommend cheap tools, but here goes anyway...

Four years ago - in a pinch - I bought a 4in angle grinder from Harbor
Freight for around $19. I subsequently used this tool to do a huge
amount of metal cutting on an old Mercedes I restored. This job
entailed hour upon hour of cutting, sanding, and wire wheel work using
that little rascal. Since then, I've used the same tool for scores of
jobs including cutting all the rebar for the foundation of a house
we're now building. Like the Energizer Bunny, this thing just keeps on
going. It hasn't even burned through the original set of brushes, but
HF tossed in an extra set to cover that eventuality. This is one tool
no shop should be without. Be careful though, it's an easy one to get
hurt with. I heard of a guy setting one down on the bench while it was
still spinning, only to have it whip around and slice open his gut.
Thrown debris and exploding cut-off wheels are also par for the course
- wear goggles or a mask and work gloves.
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 23:12:20 -0800, SteveB wrote:
CAVEAT (caps intentional)

Caveat means warning!

That it does, and a very appropriate warning as well. But I'm glad I
didn't read it before I first used an angle grinder as a kid.
Would've probably scared me so bad I never would have! I had watched
the mechanic sharpen the blades on my 6ft john deere belly mower a
couple of times, and then one time he was busy so he asked if I thought
I could do it. I've always been quick to learn, so I said sure. He
told me where he kept his 11" grinder, pointed out some goggles, and let
me go. I noticed later he was keeping a pretty good eye out. Thanks
Matt! You taught me a lot. (That pneumatic grease gun sure spoiled me.

In a way, other than wearing me out, I think the big, huge grinder was
safer than the little 4" I have now. The 11" had enough weight it
wasn't going to go flying around, and the spinning parts were heavy
enough that they didn't want to stop with a little nick (3 x 26" blades
on that belly mower tended to be like cutting grass with the sharp edge
of a baseball bat... except for the first hour or two after sharpening).

sdb


Warning left intact:

I have welded since 1974. One of the most hazardous tools I have ever seen
is a right angle grinder. And I mean ANY angle grinder, even a small die
grinder. A lot of them spin in the 14,000 rpm range, and any time you get
something spinning that fast a lot can happen.

Materials can fly off. Either particles of the wheel, pieces of metal that
are removed, pieces of wire brush, lots of nasty things flying at a high
velocity.

The tool can "kick", that is, if you put the wheel onto the workpiece at the
wrong angle or direction, the tool can fly back at you with incredible
force. Or, the workpiece can go flying the other direction.

These little boogers are as nasty as a badger, and anyone who knows what a
badger is like understands that statement. For those who don't know what a
badger is, imagine wrestling with a chain saw. They will eat you up and
spit out small pieces. You will lose ....... it will win. EVERY time.

If you are new to operating one of these, pay very strict attention to how
you place the wheel on the work, particularly when using wire brush wheels,
as they tend to grab more than a solid wheel. Imagine you are holding the
tool with the wheel down, and the wheel is a clock. The end of the tool
with the cord coming out of it is toward you. The end with the wheel is
away from you. Almost all of the work should take place between 11:30
position and 12:30 position where you want to touch the work. When the
revolving part of the tool contacts the workpiece in any other part of the
clock, the likelihood of a kick increases. As your experience and skill
goes up and you get the hang of it, you can to to the other positions of the
clock, but start there. Understand what causes a kick or what causes the
workpiece to be spit out, and adjust your contact point accordingly.

Use the handle provided until you learn the behavior of this little beast.
It is advisable but not necessary to use gloves, and I like light ones where
I can hold the grinder tightly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. If you use the
wire brushes, you will normally be picking pieces of wire out of your face
and other exposed body parts. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES. I'll say
that again. PROTECT YOUR EYES AT ALL TIMES.

The angle grinder can do amazing things. It can also cut off a finger in a
flash before you really master the thing. It can catch your clothing, and
wind you up in a ball in an instant. I have had scores of incidents in
hundreds of hours of using this tool, none of them really major. Bruises,
some lost hide, but nothing really bad. I have heard some really really bad
stories, though, and believe every one of them. These are nasty mean little
*******s, and they don't fight fair.

This thing has a learning curve, so go slow.

Steve




--
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