Hi,

The baking element on the bottom of my 1986 GE oven developed a hole,
and was not heating up any more. So I removed the old element. Then, just for
kicks, I decided to test the current between the 2 wires that had attached to
the old element, to make sure it wasn't just a blown fuse. I used a test light
that was apparently designed for much lower voltage / wattage/ whatever, and
destroyed it instantly with a loud pop and bright flash of ligth when I made
the connection. Yes, poster child for electrical safety.

The oven still works (except for the baking element). However, the red
light under the temp dial is now constantly on, unless I turn off the breaker.
I reconnected the old element, and the red light still stays on. It is on even
when every control is set to "OFF".

There is a faint "electrical odor" now when using the circular stovetop
burners.

Have I fried / melted some wiring perhaps in the oven ? Time to yank it out
and check things ?

When I install a new baking element, will the red light go off? I don't
recall it being on until I messed with the "continuity test".


Thanks,

Poster Child for Electrical Safety

issary (User132384) writes:

The baking element on the bottom of my 1986 GE oven developed a hole,
and was not heating up any more. So I removed the old element. Then, just for
kicks, I decided to test the current between the 2 wires that had attached to
the old element, to make sure it wasn't just a blown fuse. I used a test light
that was apparently designed for much lower voltage / wattage/ whatever, and
destroyed it instantly with a loud pop and bright flash of ligth when I made
the connection. Yes, poster child for electrical safety.

Is there still power at the bake element terminals? You may have blown
a fuse inside, possibly under the cooktop.

The oven still works (except for the baking element). However, the red
light under the temp dial is now constantly on, unless I turn off the
breaker.

See if the bake element power is on, and if the oven switch and thermostat
still works. Sounds like you might have welded one of those.

I reconnected the old element, and the red light still stays on. It is on
even when every control is set to "OFF".

Well, of course, nothing will change because the element is open.

There is a faint "electrical odor" now when using the circular stovetop
burners.

Have I fried / melted some wiring perhaps in the oven ? Time to yank it out
and check things ?

On a momentary short like that, kind of doubt it's a wiring problem but
you may indeed have to check further to find out..

When I install a new baking element, will the red light go off? I don't
recall it being on until I messed with the "continuity test".

No it won't until you repair whatever is broken.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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"User132384" wrote in message
...
| Hi,
|
| The baking element on the bottom of my 1986 GE oven developed a
hole,
| and was not heating up any more. So I removed the old element. Then, just
for
| kicks, I decided to test the current between the 2 wires that had attached
to
| the old element, to make sure it wasn't just a blown fuse. I used a test
light
| that was apparently designed for much lower voltage / wattage/ whatever,
and
| destroyed it instantly with a loud pop and bright flash of ligth when I
made
| the connection. Yes, poster child for electrical safety.
|
| The oven still works (except for the baking element). However, the red
| light under the temp dial is now constantly on, unless I turn off the
breaker.
| I reconnected the old element, and the red light still stays on. It is on
even
| when every control is set to "OFF".

Replace the element. Do not use the old element. 98% of the time all
problems will cease after you replace the element.

N

"User132384" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The baking element on the bottom of my 1986 GE oven developed a
hole,
and was not heating up any more. So I removed the old element. Then, just
for
kicks, I decided to test the current between the 2 wires that had attached
to
the old element, to make sure it wasn't just a blown fuse. I used a test
light
that was apparently designed for much lower voltage / wattage/ whatever,
and
destroyed it instantly with a loud pop and bright flash of ligth when I
made
the connection. Yes, poster child for electrical safety.

The oven still works (except for the baking element). However, the red
light under the temp dial is now constantly on, unless I turn off the
breaker.
I reconnected the old element, and the red light still stays on. It is on
even
when every control is set to "OFF".



Sounds like you tried using a 12v electrical tester to measure 240v from the
oven. Once it struck an arc it's effectively a short circuit, sounds like
you caused the thermostat contacts to weld closed. You may be able to fix
them or you may have to replace the thermostat if a new one is available. If
it's electronic then there will be a relay of some sort controlling the
element. Often a schematic is taped inside the back.

Thanks for the replies !
No, I don't know if I have power at the bake terminals. I am
afraid to test it. I don't have a voltmeter with enough resistance.

The broiler element still works. Don't know about the thermostat.
By thermostat I assume you mean the temp dial.

When I turn the other dial to "bake", the broiler element gets hot (
I think it did before too). Have not been able to buy new bake element
yet.

I am hoping that, as one poster implied, that replacing the bake
element will solve the red light problem also.

More questions : If I need to look at fuses, wires, switch contacts,
etc., how do i get to them? Can I simply walk / jerk the oven out of
its slot and onto the kitchen floor, with adequate slack in the wiring
to let me get it out a few feet ? Is everything located inside the
control panel at the back of the top of the stove ? It is not
"electronic" in that there are no LED readouts, just dials, two analog
clocks for start/stop timing, a regular analog clock which no longer
works and a switch for the latch/self-cleaning function.

I can rock the oven a bit, but it isn't moving easily, and I don't
want to go ripping wires out by moving the oven out of its slot.

Thanks

"Synapse" wrote in message
oups.com...
| Thanks for the replies !
| No, I don't know if I have power at the bake terminals. I am
| afraid to test it. I don't have a voltmeter with enough resistance.

You just need an AC voltmeter with at least a 250 VAC range.

....
| More questions : If I need to look at fuses, wires, switch contacts,
| etc., how do i get to them? Can I simply walk / jerk the oven out of
| its slot and onto the kitchen floor, with adequate slack in the wiring
| to let me get it out a few feet ?

Is this a built in? If so, look carefully at the control panel. It may be
partly removable to let you get at fuses etc. In any case, yes, there is
enough slack wire to pull it free of the wall, but have something like a
table to slide it onto. There MUST be some retaining screws or clips to hold
it in place. Find them first.

N

"Synapse" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the replies !
No, I don't know if I have power at the bake terminals. I am
afraid to test it. I don't have a voltmeter with enough resistance.


Huh? The resistance of the volt meter isn't an issue, any $15 multimeter
should allow you to measure 240v, most go up to 1000v, however I think it'd
be easier to just put a new element in there, if it doesn't heat then you
know you don't have power there, if it does heat then the voltage is fine.



When I turn the other dial to "bake", the broiler element gets hot (
I think it did before too). Have not been able to buy new bake element
yet.

I am hoping that, as one poster implied, that replacing the bake
element will solve the red light problem also.


I can virtually guarrantee you that it will not. The contacts of the
thermostat are welded, or if it's solid state then the triac is shorted, it
happened when you essentially short-circuited the element.


More questions : If I need to look at fuses, wires, switch contacts,
etc., how do i get to them? Can I simply walk / jerk the oven out of
its slot and onto the kitchen floor, with adequate slack in the wiring
to let me get it out a few feet ? Is everything located inside the
control panel at the back of the top of the stove ? It is not
"electronic" in that there are no LED readouts, just dials, two analog
clocks for start/stop timing, a regular analog clock which no longer
works and a switch for the latch/self-cleaning function.


That depends entirely on your particular oven and the way it was installed.
Usually there's some screws holding brackets around the face, sometimes you
have to take some trim off to get to them. There has to be some slack in the
wire because someone had to install it there at some point. Check if you can
take the control panel apart without taking the oven out though, everything
should be right there on the back of the panel, if it's all mechanical then
the thermostat will be directly connected to the temperature knob by the
shaft poking through the panel. It may be possible to pop the contacts apart
with a small screwdriver or it may be fully enclosed and rivited shut, in
which case you'll likely have to replace the thermostat. Oh, I should
mention, make sure you shut off the circuit breaker before you tear into it.

Thanks again for the replies. I have to go to a Christmas party today
and cannot have fun with the oven, unfortunately. But tomorrow, I will
try out my new present, a multimeter. It has a 500V setting, which I
will try. I will also read the directions first. All this takes time,
which these darn parties use up so well !

The oven is placed at floor level, and is tightly inserted in
between floor level cabinets/drawers. I see 2 screws on the top of the
control panel, and can feel but not see 2 screws on the back of the
control panel. I'm going to have to pull the oven out at least 6 inches
just to get to the screws on the back.

BTW, the flat metal "spade" pieces on the ends of the leads for the
bake element are sort of burned/melted. I hope to be able to use them
again. We'll see.

Thanks again for the info, everyone ! I'll be back with more
questions / results.

"Synapse" writes:

Thanks again for the replies. I have to go to a Christmas party today
and cannot have fun with the oven, unfortunately. But tomorrow, I will
try out my new present, a multimeter. It has a 500V setting, which I
will try. I will also read the directions first. All this takes time,
which these darn parties use up so well !

The oven is placed at floor level, and is tightly inserted in
between floor level cabinets/drawers. I see 2 screws on the top of the
control panel, and can feel but not see 2 screws on the back of the
control panel. I'm going to have to pull the oven out at least 6 inches
just to get to the screws on the back.

BTW, the flat metal "spade" pieces on the ends of the leads for the
bake element are sort of burned/melted. I hope to be able to use them
again. We'll see.

Those connections must be very secure or else they will melt. Make sure
they are tight going onto the new element. Squeeze them a bit with a
pair of pliers if necessary.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


Thanks again for the info, everyone ! I'll be back with more
questions / results.

OK, I bought the new bake element. $26.95. Installed it.

Tested oven and stove. Thermostat is working properly. Set oven at 350. Put
oven thermometer in oven and got a 350 reading.

Broil setting works. All 4 coils on stovetop work.

Just one problem : The red light under the temp dial stays on, even after the
oven has cooled down.

The red light does go off, but only in "bake" or "broil", when the dialed temp
has been reached. The light clicks on and off as usual during cooking.

But after shutting down the oven, and setting the dial to "OFF", the red
light comes back on as soon as the oven temp cools down to below the thermostat
setting. The temp stays low, the oven does not try to heat up again, but the
red light comes on anyway, and stays on forever until I shut off the breaker,
or cook something.

I guess I can live wth this. Just have to get used to seeing that red light
on all the time unless cooking.

I removed the back panel and saw several wires that were "rippled" near
their connections to their receptacles( the dials on the control panel) , but
no obvious "melted wires".

If the red light eventually burns out, will it affect anything else ?

Thanks

"User132384" wrote in message
...
| OK, I bought the new bake element. $26.95. Installed it.
|
| Tested oven and stove. Thermostat is working properly. Set oven at
350. Put
| oven thermometer in oven and got a 350 reading.
|
| Broil setting works. All 4 coils on stovetop work.
|
| Just one problem : The red light under the temp dial stays on, even after
the
| oven has cooled down.
|
| The red light does go off, but only in "bake" or "broil", when the dialed
temp
| has been reached. The light clicks on and off as usual during cooking.
|
| But after shutting down the oven, and setting the dial to "OFF", the red
| light comes back on as soon as the oven temp cools down to below the
thermostat
| setting. The temp stays low, the oven does not try to heat up again, but
the
| red light comes on anyway, and stays on forever until I shut off the
breaker,
| or cook something.
|
| I guess I can live wth this. Just have to get used to seeing that red
light
| on all the time unless cooking.

Interesting. There should be a wiring diagram on the oven somewhere. That
should give a clue as to what is keeping it on. It may be that you welded
'ON' an Aux contact on the control switch or thermostat.

| I removed the back panel and saw several wires that were "rippled" near
| their connections to their receptacles( the dials on the control panel) ,
but
| no obvious "melted wires".
|
| If the red light eventually burns out, will it affect anything else ?

Probably a neon. It'll take years to 'burn out'.

N

"User132384" bravely wrote to "All" (27 Dec 04 23:56:28)
--- on the heady topic of " Have I Screwed Up my GE Oven ?"

Us From: issary (User132384)

Us OK, I bought the new bake element. $26.95. Installed it.

Us Tested oven and stove. Thermostat is working properly. Set oven at
Us 350. Put oven thermometer in oven and got a 350 reading.

Us Broil setting works. All 4 coils on stovetop work.

Us Just one problem : The red light under the temp dial stays on, even
Us after the oven has cooled down.

Us The red light does go off, but only in "bake" or "broil", when the
Us dialed temp has been reached. The light clicks on and off as usual
Us during cooking.
Us But after shutting down the oven, and setting the dial to "OFF", the
Us red light comes back on as soon as the oven temp cools down to below
Us the thermostat setting. The temp stays low, the oven does not try to
Us heat up again, but the red light comes on anyway, and stays on forever
Us until I shut off the breaker, or cook something.

Us I guess I can live wth this. Just have to get used to seeing that
Us red light on all the time unless cooking.

Us I removed the back panel and saw several wires that were "rippled"
Us near their connections to their receptacles( the dials on the control
Us panel) , but no obvious "melted wires".

Us If the red light eventually burns out, will it affect anything else ?

Us Thanks


Hi,

The oven indicator light is often connected between the oven and broil
elements. Normally when the oven is first turned on the oven and broil
elements will turn on together for a preset delay so that the oven
comes up to temperature faster. I'm guessing this delay contact of the
oven thermostat is defective and your oven just takes longer to warm
up. One way to get the indicator to turn on and off properly is to
move its connector from the broil element to across the oven element
alone. On some oven thermostats this would be from terminal 4 to
terminal 3. Of course then the indicator will not work at all on the
"broil" setting but if you never use "broil" then who cares. BTW the
indicator light is a heavy duty neon lamp and it won't burn out for
many, many decades.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... :) What does that wire do? =3d8Q (oh!)

Hi!

The red light does go off, but only in "bake" or "broil", when the dialed
temp
has been reached. The light clicks on and off as usual during cooking.

But after shutting down the oven, and setting the dial to "OFF", the red
light comes back on as soon as the oven temp cools down to below the
thermostat

I have an old Hotpoint range (dual ovens, really big, old, but a wonderful
stove to cook on and very easily serviced) where the control for the primary
oven does this same thing from time to time. At first it worried me, but
after finding that the oven remained totally cool and that rotating the
selector knob through all the ranges would "clear" the light, I didn't worry
much about it.

http://greyghost.dyndns.org/stove.jpg (I haven't yet cleaned up tonight's
dinner!)

That has probably been five years ago. When switched from "bake" to "off"
the primary oven controller still leaves that red "bake" light on from time
to time. I'm not sure where the fault lies, and parts are still available
for my stove, but I see no point in replacing something that isn't really
broken.

I would guess that your oven experienced a more rapid version of the
"failure" that mine is experiencing when you shorted the element out.

If the red light eventually burns out, will it affect anything else ?

There should be no ill effect. My own oven's red light is still functional
despite having spent many days in the "illuminated" state. I doubt you will
miss it even if it does burn out and a replacement shouldn't be that hard to
find. I would assume that many different GE and other brand stoves use that
style of illuminator.

William