I need to know better how the booster water pump pressure switch is tested
& adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

On 12/05/2019 9:56 am, Prouvost wrote:
I need to know better how the booster water pump pressure switch is tested
& adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

We used to test and set such with a variable air supply (Like the
control valve on a spray booth paint gun setup) in your case it would be
a good idea to remove the switch and check the usually small orifice
that is in the water inlet of the switch, it is a common fault for those
to become blocked. While you are on the job it looks like the system
could use a coat of paint !!

If reliability is critical, replace it immediately. Then, if you must, troubleshoot the old one and then put it on the shelf as a *temporary* spare.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Pondering that which Rheilly Phoull wrote:


We used to test and set such with a variable air supply (Like the
control valve on a spray booth paint gun setup) in your case it would be
a good idea to remove the switch and check the usually small orifice
that is in the water inlet of the switch, it is a common fault for those
to become blocked. While you are on the job it looks like the system
could use a coat of paint !!

Thank you for showing how to test the switch instead of just blindly
replacing it, where I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is
broken.

I only blindly replace things when I don't understand how the system works,
which means I can't test it properly due to my ignorance of the system.

I researched how the system works overnight where I wrote up this
troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge
(2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU]
(3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]

On 12/05/2019 16:07, Prouvost wrote:


Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]

Does his style of posting look familiar ...

--
Adrian C

The proposed action seems good but save time and check for the blockage
first, the pressure switches dont change setting much, the one thing to
get on top of is to regularly check and adjust the pressure in the tank
(The static air pressure) that does gradually change.

On 12/05/2019 11:07 pm, Prouvost wrote:
Pondering that which Rheilly Phoull wrote:


We used to test and set such with a variable air supply (Like the
control valve on a spray booth paint gun setup) in your case it would
be a good idea to remove the switch and check the usually small
orifice that is in the water inlet of the switch, it is a common fault
for those to become blocked. While you are on the job it looks like
the system could use a coat of paint !!

Thank you for showing how to test the switch instead of just blindly
replacing it, where I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is
broken.

I only blindly replace things when I don't understand how the system works,
which means I can't test it properly due to my ignorance of the system.

I researched how the system works overnight where I wrote up this
troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge (2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU] (3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]

On Sunday, May 12, 2019 at 5:59:55 PM UTC-4, Adrian Caspersz wrote:

Does his style of posting look familiar ...

Style is familiar, yes. And the essential idiocy has not gotten any better with time.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

wrote:
If reliability is critical, replace it immediately. Then, if you must, troubleshoot the
old one and then put it on the shelf as a *temporary* spare.

Look at at this way: you made the $100 service call and replaced the $2 part.
(Just throwing out numbers here, so please don't hold me to them). Discard
the bad part so nobody will try to resurrect it, ultimately resulting in
another $100 service call.

If customer wants a spare, sell him a new one, $2 plus an (ahem) appropriate markup.

Or let him buy one on eBay.


Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

You miss the point - I am beginning to think that is typical of you. Prouvost is the type who wants to set camber with a cell phone, and patch bald tires for its BMW.

Practicality and common sense are not under discussion.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

In article ,
LID says...

Look at at this way: you made the $100 service call and replaced the $2 part.
(Just throwing out numbers here, so please don't hold me to them). Discard
the bad part so nobody will try to resurrect it, ultimately resulting in
another $100 service call.

If customer wants a spare, sell him a new one, $2 plus an (ahem) appropriate markup.

Or let him buy one on eBay.



I got ripped off big time on the heat pump.

Service call was $ 100 just to come out. Fair enough.
Replaced a capacitor that shoud have been a fair pricce of $ 50 due to
markup. However their standard rate ws about $ 300.

I later bought a capacitor and relay just to have off ebay for less than
$ 20 each including shipping.

Two years later the capacitor went out again, so put in my $ 20
capacitor and ordered another off ebay.

If it is a part that may be ok, I may save it for an emergency,but
usually just chunk the old part if it is not very expensive.

Once upon a time, a gentleman from New York was driving across the Vermont countryside in his brand new Cadillac - whereupon it broke down, stopped dead, in the middle of nowhere - and no cell coverage (common in VT). The Gentleman walked to the nearest house, inhabited by an elderly farmer, and asked to borrow a phone.

Gentleman: My car broke down, I have no cell coverage. May I borrow your phone?

Farmer: Got no phone. Mind if I take a look?

Gentleman: This is a 2019 Cadillac - I am sure you have no idea.

Farmer: Mind if I take a look?

Gentleman: I guess that would be OK.

The farmer walked to the car, popped the hood, and looked for about 30 seconds. Ayuh! And walked to his barn, returning with a small brass hammer.
Three taps later, he asked the gentleman to "Try it now".

Ran perfectly!

The gentleman, being a gentleman, asked: What do I owe you?

Farmer, after looking him up and down: $300.

Gentleman: For $300, I want an itemized bill!

Farmer: Sure.
Walked to his house, and came back with the bill as follows:

Three taps with small brass hammer @ $1 each. $3.
Know whe $297.

Being ripped off is in the eye of the beholder.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA