I need to know better how the booster pump pressure switch is tested &
adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

On 5/11/19 8:56 PM, Prouvost wrote:
I need to know better how the booster pump pressure switch is tested &
adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

There's a video he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VNSv7xVzzU
A quick check shows them available at Ace Hardware and Lowes. $25
to $35.
A shade tree fix would be some lubricant on the moving mechanism.

Pondering that which Dean Hoffman wrote:


There's a video he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VNSv7xVzzU
A quick check shows them available at Ace Hardware and Lowes. $25
to $35.
A shade tree fix would be some lubricant on the moving mechanism.

Thank you for that video where I watched at least a dozen subsequently
where I'm happy to see that people help each other with these videos.

Since I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is broken, I wrote
up this troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight,
where I only blindly replace parts when I give up on troubleshooting, which
is usually only when I'm ignorant of how the system works.

Here's what I figured out from watching a dozen videos.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge
(2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU]
(3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]

On Sunday, May 12, 2019 at 11:09:04 AM UTC-4, Prouvost wrote:
Pondering that which Dean Hoffman wrote:


There's a video he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VNSv7xVzzU
A quick check shows them available at Ace Hardware and Lowes. $25
to $35.
A shade tree fix would be some lubricant on the moving mechanism.

Thank you for that video where I watched at least a dozen subsequently
where I'm happy to see that people help each other with these videos.

Since I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is broken, I wrote
up this troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight,
where I only blindly replace parts when I give up on troubleshooting, which
is usually only when I'm ignorant of how the system works.

Here's what I figured out from watching a dozen videos.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge
(2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU]
(3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]



Are you by chance related to that Arlen Holder fellow?

On 5/12/19 10:08 AM, Prouvost wrote:
Pondering that which Dean Hoffman wrote:


Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* There's a video he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VNSv7xVzzU
Â*Â*Â* A quick check shows them available at Ace Hardware and Lowes.Â* $25
to $35.
Â*Â*Â* A shade tree fix would be some lubricant on the moving mechanism.

Thank you for that video where I watched at least a dozen subsequently
where I'm happy to see that people help each other with these videos.

Since I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is broken, I wrote
up this troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

The one thing I'd quarrel with is the file to clean the electrical
contacts of the switch. Fine emery cloth would be a better choice.
The smoother the points, the better. It sure doesn't sound like the
points are the problem in your case. You make things work by pushing
something on the switch.
I use WD-40 when I want to clean up things that are sticking. My
co-worker of long standing says I'm a dummy on that. Brake cleaner
is a better choice. I'd probably try spraying things down with the power
off, then working the mechanism in the switch manually a few times.
A pressure gauge on the output of the pump is a good idea whether
things are working or not. Happy hunting.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight,
where I only blindly replace parts when I give up on troubleshooting, which
is usually only when I'm ignorant of how the system works.

Here's what I figured out from watching a dozen videos.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge (2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
Â*Â* 1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Â*Â* Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU] (3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]

On 5/11/2019 8:56 PM, Prouvost wrote:
I need to know better how the booster pump pressure switch is tested &
adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

Picture doesn't show the pressure connection -- is it clear?

If it stays on but then does auto release after reaching pressure that's
indicative is or wouldn't cut out until hit safety relief point (or
over-pressure switch if have one).

If a little WD40 or other lube on the hinge points doesn't free it up;
sounds like time for new one.

As another said, if there isn't one, install a pressure gauge so you can
see what's going on without excess gyrations.

--

On Sunday, May 12, 2019 at 1:50:49 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 5/11/2019 8:56 PM, Prouvost wrote:
I need to know better how the booster pump pressure switch is tested &
adjusted I think, where I ask your advice to help me figure it out.
[http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...9_relay00.jpg]

Is there a way to better test or adjust that booster pump switch?

All I know, so far, is that when I manually press down on the complicated
intermeshed switch levers with a stick, the switch sparks green and
instantly activates the booster pump which stays running for about 4
minutes which gives the house water pressure for about three or four
showers worth of water.

But the switch no longer turns on by itself anymore.

What else can I test or adjust?

Picture doesn't show the pressure connection -- is it clear?

If it stays on but then does auto release after reaching pressure that's
indicative is or wouldn't cut out until hit safety relief point (or
over-pressure switch if have one).

If a little WD40 or other lube on the hinge points doesn't free it up;
sounds like time for new one.

As another said, if there isn't one, install a pressure gauge so you can
see what's going on without excess gyrations.

--

A new one is $20, available from many sources, I would think HD has
them. It's not worth screwing with. How about if it later
fails stuck closed? I think this guy is related to tire changing
Arlen Holder.

trader_4 posted for all of us...



On Sunday, May 12, 2019 at 11:09:04 AM UTC-4, Prouvost wrote:
Pondering that which Dean Hoffman wrote:


There's a video he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VNSv7xVzzU
A quick check shows them available at Ace Hardware and Lowes. $25
to $35.
A shade tree fix would be some lubricant on the moving mechanism.

Thank you for that video where I watched at least a dozen subsequently
where I'm happy to see that people help each other with these videos.

Since I try to never replace a part that I can't prove is broken, I wrote
up this troubleshooting flow chart that I'd like to ask for review.

I'll likely do the work today but this is what I figured out overnight,
where I only blindly replace parts when I give up on troubleshooting, which
is usually only when I'm ignorant of how the system works.

Here's what I figured out from watching a dozen videos.

Non-inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Water pressure tester GHT fitting (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(2) Pressure gauge (NPT fitting) (at least 0 psi to about 75 psi)
(3) Pressure switch (Double-D brand, preset to the correct range)

Normal inventory parts & tools needed:
(1) Air compressor & hand-held Shrader gauge
(2) 220VAC voltmeter or DMM
(3) Wrenches, flat file, pipe dope, screwdrivers, Sharpie, and so forth

Basics of normal operation: (30-50 psi for homes with 20 pound
differential)
(1) The bladder is pressurized to about 28 psi in most homes (or 38)
(2) The pressure switch is set to close 4 pump contacts at 30 psi (or 40)
(3) The pressure switch is set to open 4 pump contacts at 50 psi (or 60)

Basics if the pump isn't turning on:
(1) The pressure to the pressure switch may be faulty
(2) The pressure switch contacts can be pitted or corroded or sticking
(3) The water line or the screen on the pressure switch may be clogged

Determine the design cut-in & cut-out pressure range
(1) Read pressure written on the tank & on the cap of the pressure switch
(2) Measure pressure in the tank at the cut-in & cut-off points
(3) Read the pressure gauge at the cut-in & cut-off points

Check bladder pressure
(1) Shut off the input/output to/from the pressure tank & drain
(2) Read pressure on tank when empty & full
(3) Bladder should be 2-4 psi below cut-in pressure (30-2 = 28 psi)

Clean debris clogging the pressure to the pressure switch:
(1) Clean the four contact switch points with a flat file.
(2) Clean debris from the screen on the bottom of the pressure switch
(3) Clean out the water tube connected to the pressure switch

What do the four contacts do
(1) Usually the inside two contacts generally obtain input line power
(2) Usually the outside two contacts generally output to the pump
(3) There are generally two ground screws, one each for the input & output

Safety concerns before removing components
(1) Turn off the power
(2) Shut off the nearest water valves to and from the pressure tank
(3) Drain the pressure tank of water until the pump gauge reads 0 psi

Adjust the pressure in the bladder & pressure switch if necessary
(1) Pressurize bladder to 28 psi
(2) Center large nut (3/8") adjusts the cut-in/cut-out 20-degree range
1 clockwise rotation tightening the large spring adds 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55 psi, 40-60 psi, 45-65 psi, and so on
(3) Side small nut adults the cut-out pressure only (widens the range)
1 clockwise rotation = 2-3 psi
Example values are 35-55+2 psi, 40-60+2 psi, 45-65+2 psi, and so on

System overview videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/X4TZoFIsE2w]
(2) [https://youtu.be/CQayY5FTNKk]
(3) [https://youtu.be/Rb8k7xoBNSI]
(4) [https://youtu.be/2WGlRaTmvbM]
(5) [https://youtu.be/gJxjA5eDOS8]

Pressure tank videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY]
(2) [https://youtu.be/w21qa2bMUh8]
(3) [https://youtu.be/9fTzXVIQDBY]
(4) [https://youtu.be/IhBifh7nCtg]
(5) [https://youtu.be/NzZI7WOnMMQ]

Pressure switch videos
(1) [https://youtu.be/Vq-8RCCeh3k]
(2) [https://youtu.be/1VNSv7xVzzU]
(3) [https://youtu.be/D1QAkfbIclo]
(4) [https://youtu.be/DmCoc4e2gyI]
(5) [https://youtu.be/8TI98cs85ew]



Are you by chance related to that Arlen Holder fellow?

You sniffed him out early!

--
Tekkie