Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ? Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ? Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

Assuming your time is worth more than 1/10th minimum wge, it makes
sense simply to replace the hinge with a replacement part. You can
get one for a few bucks from a junked laptop on ebay.

"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ? Fractured at the screw point so only
half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

Assuming your time is worth more than 1/10th minimum wge, it makes
sense simply to replace the hinge with a replacement part. You can
get one for a few bucks from a junked laptop on ebay.

Mate of mine repairs laptops for a living, and oddly enough, we were
discussing this just a couple of weeks ago, when I was in his shop, and he
told me that he buys new replacement hinges from some place that keeps a lot
of laptop spares. Might even have been an eBay shop. I'll check with him if
you like, but it won't be until Tuesday, because he has Mondays off.

Arfa

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 00:59:01 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

Mate of mine repairs laptops for a living, and oddly enough, we were
discussing this just a couple of weeks ago, when I was in his shop, and he
told me that he buys new replacement hinges from some place that keeps a lot
of laptop spares. Might even have been an eBay shop. I'll check with him if
you like, but it won't be until Tuesday, because he has Mondays off.

If I inscribe "laptop hinge" into the eBay search box, I get 821
possible hits. Plenty to choose from. Some are amazingly cheap
(direct from Hong Kong).




--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote in
:

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 00:59:01 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:

Mate of mine repairs laptops for a living, and oddly enough, we were
discussing this just a couple of weeks ago, when I was in his shop,
and he told me that he buys new replacement hinges from some place
that keeps a lot of laptop spares. Might even have been an eBay shop.
I'll check with him if you like, but it won't be until Tuesday,
because he has Mondays off.

If I inscribe "laptop hinge" into the eBay search box, I get 821
possible hits. Plenty to choose from. Some are amazingly cheap
(direct from Hong Kong).

cheap except for the shipping charges..... ;-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from various
online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be prepared to
overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do their own
repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying around.
Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass inserts
commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the insert
inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a tolerable
substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed aluminum
dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to thread
the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful when
opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too horrible.
All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it ever
happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and be done
with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from various
online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be prepared to
overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do their own
repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying around.
Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass inserts
commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the insert
inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a tolerable
substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed aluminum
dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to thread
the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful when
opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too horrible.
All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it ever
happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and be done
with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole or
two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto. Also
underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function of
aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?


To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently , oftn
walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to google I
wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair which has the
word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately did not mention
make and model?

"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken
and missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to
where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from
various online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be
prepared to overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do
their own repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying
around. Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the
amount of force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass
inserts commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the
insert inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a
tolerable substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed
aluminum dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to
thread the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful
when opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too
horrible. All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it
ever happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and
be done with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some
expanded aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled
small hole or two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to
anchor onto. Also underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is
the function of aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?

it's a FILLER or thickener,gives bulk to the epoxy.

I use a thin,boat-building epoxy,and several kinds of fillers such as fumed
silica,wood flour,phenolic micro-balloons,and chopped glass or plastic
fibers. It's very versatile. fumed silica makes a very hard epoxy,fibers
add strength.

for a good read on epoxy,http://www.systemthree.com,you can download their
Epoxy Book for free. Lots of useful info on using epoxies.

BTW,metal or plastic window screening also makes a good
reinforcement/"scaffold" for epoxy.

Best to rough up the plastic surface before gluing.I even drill holes for
the epoxy to flow into,for additional adhesion.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote in message
...
"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken
and missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to
where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from
various online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be
prepared to overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do
their own repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying
around. Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the
amount of force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass
inserts commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the
insert inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a
tolerable substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed
aluminum dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to
thread the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful
when opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too
horrible. All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it
ever happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and
be done with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some
expanded aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled
small hole or two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to
anchor onto. Also underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is
the function of aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?

it's a FILLER or thickener,gives bulk to the epoxy.

I use a thin,boat-building epoxy,and several kinds of fillers such as
fumed
silica,wood flour,phenolic micro-balloons,and chopped glass or plastic
fibers. It's very versatile. fumed silica makes a very hard epoxy,fibers
add strength.

for a good read on epoxy,http://www.systemthree.com,you can download their
Epoxy Book for free. Lots of useful info on using epoxies.

BTW,metal or plastic window screening also makes a good
reinforcement/"scaffold" for epoxy.

Best to rough up the plastic surface before gluing.I even drill holes for
the epoxy to flow into,for additional adhesion.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


A lot of various-directioned and angled , stopped, small drill holes is
probably easier and more effective than what I was going to try.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 15:32:40 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote in message
.. .
"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken
and missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to
where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from
various online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be
prepared to overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do
their own repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying
around. Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the
amount of force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass
inserts commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the
insert inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a
tolerable substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed
aluminum dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to
thread the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful
when opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too
horrible. All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it
ever happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and
be done with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some
expanded aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled
small hole or two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to
anchor onto. Also underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is
the function of aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?

it's a FILLER or thickener,gives bulk to the epoxy.

I use a thin,boat-building epoxy,and several kinds of fillers such as
fumed
silica,wood flour,phenolic micro-balloons,and chopped glass or plastic
fibers. It's very versatile. fumed silica makes a very hard epoxy,fibers
add strength.

for a good read on epoxy,http://www.systemthree.com,you can download their
Epoxy Book for free. Lots of useful info on using epoxies.

BTW,metal or plastic window screening also makes a good
reinforcement/"scaffold" for epoxy.

Best to rough up the plastic surface before gluing.I even drill holes for
the epoxy to flow into,for additional adhesion.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


A lot of various-directioned and angled , stopped, small drill holes is
probably easier and more effective than what I was going to try.

Yeah, but those door hinges would have looked cool, especially with #12
hardware.

"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Jim Yanik wrote in message
...
"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some
expanded aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh
drilled small hole or two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold
for epoxy to anchor onto. Also underscore the plastic to give a bit
of key. What is the function of aluminium dust in epoxy, other than
a colourant?

it's a FILLER or thickener,gives bulk to the epoxy.

I use a thin,boat-building epoxy,and several kinds of fillers such as
fumed
silica,wood flour,phenolic micro-balloons,and chopped glass or
plastic fibers. It's very versatile. fumed silica makes a very hard
epoxy,fibers add strength.

for a good read on epoxy,http://www.systemthree.com,you can download
their Epoxy Book for free. Lots of useful info on using epoxies.

BTW,metal or plastic window screening also makes a good
reinforcement/"scaffold" for epoxy.

Best to rough up the plastic surface before gluing.I even drill holes
for the epoxy to flow into,for additional adhesion.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


A lot of various-directioned and angled , stopped, small drill holes
is probably easier and more effective than what I was going to try.




too small a hole,and all you have is a epoxy shear pin... 8-)

I don't believe angling the holes will make that much difference.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:23:43 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole or
two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto. Also
underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function of
aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?

Epoxy is hard and brittle. Aluminum is soft an malleable. If you try
to drill and tap straight epoxy, it will usually crack. The aluminum
provides a cushion. You can buy aluminum filled epoxy at the hardware
store, but I've found that it doesn't have enough aluminum and is
mostly brittle epoxy. So, I mixed my own. The hard part was finding
the aluminum powder. I made some by destroying a grinding wheel and
grinding down a slab of dead soft (pure) aluminum. There are various
instructions on the net for making aluminum powder. One uses aluminum
foil run through a shredder, and then through a ball mill for 2 weeks.
No thanks. Anyway, use only as much epoxy as necessary to hold the
dust together. If sufficiently large volume, insert reinforcing bars,
such as a paper clip, into the mix for strength.

Something I haven't tried is to insert the matching (3mm?) screw into
the partial hole, cover it with grease or some kind of mold release,
and then build up the epoxy/aluminum/whatever material around it. When
it hardens, just remove the screw and you have an instant threaded
hole. The problem is that it has a weak spot guaranteed to cause a
stress crack at the screw hole.

To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently , oftn
walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to google I
wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair which has the
word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately did not mention
make and model?

If you actually want to repair some item, the idea is to supply as
much information about the item and its condition as possible.
Minimalist postings are useful academic exercises, but often wander
badly in a futile attempt to guess your circumstances. More
specifically:
1. What problem are you trying to solve?
2. What do you have to work with? (Make, model, version, etc).
3. What have you done so far and what happened?
There's plenty more info that would be useful, but the aforementioned
are the essentials. Anything less usually results in guesswork and
topic drift. I won't speculate as to your motivations for
intentionally withholding useful information.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:15:44 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:23:43 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole
or two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto.
Also underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function
of aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?

Epoxy is hard and brittle. Aluminum is soft an malleable. If you try
to drill and tap straight epoxy, it will usually crack. The aluminum
provides a cushion. You can buy aluminum filled epoxy at the hardware
store, but I've found that it doesn't have enough aluminum and is mostly
brittle epoxy. So, I mixed my own. The hard part was finding the
aluminum powder. I made some by destroying a grinding wheel and
grinding down a slab of dead soft (pure) aluminum. There are various
instructions on the net for making aluminum powder. One uses aluminum
foil run through a shredder, and then through a ball mill for 2 weeks.
No thanks. Anyway, use only as much epoxy as necessary to hold the dust
together. If sufficiently large volume, insert reinforcing bars, such
as a paper clip, into the mix for strength.

Something I haven't tried is to insert the matching (3mm?) screw into
the partial hole, cover it with grease or some kind of mold release, and
then build up the epoxy/aluminum/whatever material around it. When it
hardens, just remove the screw and you have an instant threaded hole.
The problem is that it has a weak spot guaranteed to cause a stress
crack at the screw hole.

To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently ,
oftn walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to
google I wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair
which has the word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately
did not mention make and model?

If you actually want to repair some item, the idea is to supply as much
information about the item and its condition as possible. Minimalist
postings are useful academic exercises, but often wander badly in a
futile attempt to guess your circumstances. More specifically:
1. What problem are you trying to solve? 2. What do you have to work
with? (Make, model, version, etc). 3. What have you done so far and
what happened? There's plenty more info that would be useful, but the
aforementioned are the essentials. Anything less usually results in
guesswork and topic drift. I won't speculate as to your motivations for
intentionally withholding useful information.

Try this:

http://www.freemansupply.com/Freeman801Aluminum.htm

or a similar product.

It's worked for me.

Al

On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 17:49:27 GMT, alchazz wrote:

Try this:
http://www.freemansupply.com/Freeman801Aluminum.htm
or a similar product.
It's worked for me.
Al

Good idea. Have you tried to drill and thread it? The muffler repair
epoxy I tried cracked, but my home made version worked.

I found this putty epoxy compound with Google:
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_putties.htm
The main advantage is that it's allegedly machinable, which means it
has plenty of aluminum and less epoxy. Maybe add some fiberglass
matting to the mix for strength.

All this to save a few dollars for new hinge.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?

No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from various
online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be prepared to
overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do their own
repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying around.
Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.

I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass inserts
commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the insert
inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a tolerable
substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed aluminum
dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to thread
the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful when
opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too horrible.
All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it ever
happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and be done
with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole or
two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto. Also
underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function of
aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?


To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently ,
oftn
walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to google
I
wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair which has the
word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately did not mention
make and model?



Sometimes, my friend, you don't do yourself any favours. With an arsy
attitude like that, you don't deserve to get help with your half baked bodge
repair projects. I offered you a solution based on the activities of a
friend who is a proper professional at laptop repairs, that would not have
cost you a lot of money, otherwise he wouldn't be doing it, as he makes a
proper living at it, and I wouldn't have suggested it to you, knowing your
penchant for fixing everything with some **** dissolved in epoxy, and some
obscure material not intended for the job. So go ahead, and waste forty
quidsworth of your time, on a bodged repair that won't last five minutes.
Sheesh.

Arfa

On Tue, 11 Aug 2009 01:57:10 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:
Sometimes, my friend, you don't do yourself any favours. With an arsy
attitude like that, you don't deserve to get help with your half baked bodge
repair projects. I offered you a solution based on the activities of a
friend who is a proper professional at laptop repairs, that would not have
cost you a lot of money, otherwise he wouldn't be doing it, as he makes a
proper living at it, and I wouldn't have suggested it to you, knowing your
penchant for fixing everything with some **** dissolved in epoxy, and some
obscure material not intended for the job. So go ahead, and waste forty
quidsworth of your time, on a bodged repair that won't last five minutes.
Sheesh.

The kind of people who do such half assed repairs obviously don't value
their time in the slightest. Spend twenty hours to save what a fast food
clerk makes in an hour.

Arfa Daily wrote:
"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?
No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from various
online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be prepared to
overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do their own
repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying around.
Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount of
force required to turn this pintle rod.
I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass inserts
commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the insert
inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a tolerable
substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed aluminum
dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to thread
the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful when
opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too horrible.
All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it ever
happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and be done
with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole or
two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto. Also
underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function of
aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?


To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently ,
oftn
walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to google
I
wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair which has the
word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately did not mention
make and model?



Sometimes, my friend, you don't do yourself any favours. With an arsy
attitude like that, you don't deserve to get help with your half baked bodge
repair projects. I offered you a solution based on the activities of a
friend who is a proper professional at laptop repairs, that would not have
cost you a lot of money, otherwise he wouldn't be doing it, as he makes a
proper living at it, and I wouldn't have suggested it to you, knowing your
penchant for fixing everything with some **** dissolved in epoxy, and some
obscure material not intended for the job. So go ahead, and waste forty
quidsworth of your time, on a bodged repair that won't last five minutes.
Sheesh.

Arfa



Oh well said that man -

Ron

Ron wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote:
"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:36:54 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Any general tips on how to make a structural repair to the broken
and
missing Aluminium extension from the friction pintle mount to where
it
joins
the plastic of the LCD surround ?
No, I haven't the slightest idea, especially since you didn't bother
supplying the manufacturer and model number.

If you're missing parts, you can find just about anything from various
online computer salvage operators. Also on eBay. Be prepared to
overpay. The few surviving repair shops that actually do their own
repair usually have a fair collection of scrap parts laying around.
Ask, and you might receive.

Fractured at the screw point so only half
the screw hole remains , a highly stressed point, going by the amount
of
force required to turn this pintle rod.
I've used hili-coil inserts to fix those. Also threaded brass inserts
commonly used in plastic molding. Drill it out and epoxy the insert
inplace. The smallest you can get is 4-40 which is a tolerable
substitue for the common 3mm metric screw. I've also mixed aluminum
dust with epoxy and built up the broken part sufficiently to thread
the hole. It worked, but the owner had to be very careful when
opening the hinge. It lasted about 3 years, which isn't too horrible.
All these methods were a PITA and far too much work. If it ever
happens again, I'll just epoxy the hinge to the base metal and be done
with it.

You might want to look at hints at:
http://repair4laptop.org
This looks close:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86297

Incidentally, such breakage usually happens because the screw wiggles
loose. I recommend Loctite on enything threaded into aluminum.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Thanks for some interesting ideas. I was thinking of using some
expanded
aluminium, anchored into the aluminium, with a fresh drilled small hole
or
two and small nut/bolts. To give a scaffold for epoxy to anchor onto.
Also
underscore the plastic to give a bit of key. What is the function of
aluminium dust in epoxy, other than a colourant?


To the others in the thread , if I wanted to get hints on (apparently ,
oftn
walletctomy) buying specific replacement stuff from e-bay or how to
google
I
wouldn't be posting repair queries to sci.electronics.repair which has
the
word repair in the title. Why do you think I deliberately did not
mention
make and model?



Sometimes, my friend, you don't do yourself any favours. With an arsy
attitude like that, you don't deserve to get help with your half baked
bodge
repair projects. I offered you a solution based on the activities of a
friend who is a proper professional at laptop repairs, that would not
have
cost you a lot of money, otherwise he wouldn't be doing it, as he makes
a
proper living at it, and I wouldn't have suggested it to you, knowing
your
penchant for fixing everything with some **** dissolved in epoxy, and
some
obscure material not intended for the job. So go ahead, and waste forty
quidsworth of your time, on a bodged repair that won't last five
minutes.
Sheesh.

Arfa



Oh well said that man -

Ron


If I replaced the whole hinge, I'd have to find out how to take the laptop
apart to get to the other part of the hinge, C-clip or whatever is buried
inside. Anyone's guess what chance of colateral damage just doing that.
Obtain a part, without being ripped off and having the correct one supplied.
Whereas all I've to do is find a way of building up the lost few square mm
of aluminium of the hinge anchor plate and make good some of the broken away
and missing plastic of the display surround/lid. All nicely exposed and easy
to work on. Why go to all that bother if a bit of epoxy and some Al mesh/
minimal hardware/drilling is all that's required. The hinge mount failed in
quite normal use , so direct replacement likely to do the same.