Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

wrote:
Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks


you could maybe look around online for an installation kit for a
mid-90's Chrysler,or Crutchfield.com might be able to give you some
wiring info.

wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.


Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could blow
the output circuit.


I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

If you get the installation kit, and can find out the equivalent wires
to cross reference them, the radio should normaly work.

Where you will have issues is if there is the requirement of
communications between the computer of the car and the computer of the
radio. This will apply where the radio is dedicated to the car model,
and is computer controlled by the car's computer system.

In most cases the radio should be a simple device. You will have the
antenna in, power in, panel lamp control, memory power, main power, and
then the speaker outputs.

In some car's the speakers are high impedance for their inputs and have
built in power amps, or there are external power amps for the speakers,
and the radio works more like a line level receiver. Most of the time,
the car radio systems are simple, and the radio speaker outputs are 4 or
8 ohms depending on the model, and it drives regular auto type speakers.

Just make sure you have compatibility, and you get the wiring correct
the first time. If not, most likely you will damage the radio, or
something else.

--

JANA
_____


wrote in message
...
Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

On Sat, 24 May 2008 10:27:28 +0000 (UTC), bz
wrote:

wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.


Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.


Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this? I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I was wrong. Now that I dragged it into the house, there are SEVEN
(not six) pins on each plug. Doing a google of the model number
brought it up as a 2000 Dodge Dakota OEM radio.

Here is the labelling of the pins.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT
ACC
ILL
PARK
RF-
LF-
MUTE

SPEAKER CONNECTOR

RR-
LR-
RF+
LF+
RR+
LR+
ANT

OK, battery, accessory power, the LF- and RF- must be speakers
But what the heck is "ILL"
What is PARK for
and while I know what MUTE does on a tv or whatever, why would this
radio have a MUTE wire? Would there be a mute button somewhere else
in the car, or what?
And why is there both a pin labelled ANT and a standard push in
antenna jack?

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could blow
the output circuit.

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with some
resistors..


I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.

Thanks. I found the following website and it has an exact photo of
the rear of this radio. HE
http://www.river-oaks-car-stereo.com/cars/chrysler.html
It says "Radio Pictures" above the picture.

It appears they have the plugs with short wires. I will have to
contact them and see if that is the right ones.

This webpage lead me to this website link where I was seriously
distracted by the photo on the page. HOT DAMN !!!!
http://www.installer.com/howto.html
I'd hire her in a second, but I'd help while she was under the dash,
by laying on top of her to hold the flashlight.......
I totally forgot about the radio and looked at that picture for
awhile......

OK, getting back to the radio, I think that website can help, but I'm
still worried about that security code now that you said it....

I think I'll just connect a 12V source via alligator clips and a few
speakers and see what happens.

Why the F**K do they have to make everything so complicated these
days. Please, someone take me back to the 1960s and 70s.... When
life was simple !!!!

wrote in news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@
4ax.com:

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this?

Yep. The radio in my wifes 93 Honda isn't working right now because we need
to go to the dealer and get the code. We had to pull a fuse to check
something and have lost the code.

I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

Most car radios/stereos now have a factory programmed security code.
If the power is disconnected, you need to key the code in through the
channel buttons before the radio will work.

This is to discourage thieves from ripping out your dash to steal your
radio.
They can't use or sell it (or that is the theory) because it can't be used
without the code.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 24 May 2008 10:27:28 +0000 (UTC), bz
wrote:

wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.


Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.


Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this? I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I was wrong. Now that I dragged it into the house, there are SEVEN
(not six) pins on each plug. Doing a google of the model number
brought it up as a 2000 Dodge Dakota OEM radio.

Here is the labelling of the pins.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT
ACC
ILL
PARK
RF-
LF-
MUTE

SPEAKER CONNECTOR

RR-
LR-
RF+
LF+
RR+
LR+
ANT

OK, battery, accessory power, the LF- and RF- must be speakers
But what the heck is "ILL"

Illumination. It hooks up to the lighting circuit, when energized, it
reduced the brightness of the display.



What is PARK for
and while I know what MUTE does on a tv or whatever, why would this
radio have a MUTE wire? Would there be a mute button somewhere else
in the car, or what?

On the steering wheel controls, along with volume controls and controls for
changing stations.

And why is there both a pin labelled ANT and a standard push in
antenna jack?

For power antenna.

This radio was used for more than one model, and not just pickup trucks..
Does it have the three band, or five band equalizer with joy stick? The
five band was used in the high end models, like the Imperial.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could
blow
the output circuit.

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with some
resistors..


I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.

Thanks. I found the following website and it has an exact photo of
the rear of this radio. HE
http://www.river-oaks-car-stereo.com/cars/chrysler.html
It says "Radio Pictures" above the picture.

It appears they have the plugs with short wires. I will have to
contact them and see if that is the right ones.

This webpage lead me to this website link where I was seriously
distracted by the photo on the page. HOT DAMN !!!!
http://www.installer.com/howto.html
I'd hire her in a second, but I'd help while she was under the dash,
by laying on top of her to hold the flashlight.......
I totally forgot about the radio and looked at that picture for
awhile......

OK, getting back to the radio, I think that website can help, but I'm
still worried about that security code now that you said it....

I think I'll just connect a 12V source via alligator clips and a few
speakers and see what happens.

Why the F**K do they have to make everything so complicated these
days. Please, someone take me back to the 1960s and 70s.... When
life was simple !!!!

The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

On Sat, 24 May 2008 04:06:28 -0500, wrote:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

Hi!

Back then, we had to manually connect each wire.

Sometimes you still do, if you find an older car or one without a
factory installed radio. I ran wiring for a car stereo in a Plymouth
Reliant a few months ago. It came from the factory with an AM radio,
so the only wiring I could take advantage of was for power and
antenna.

These days, just about all the cars on the road have a stereo, so the
wiring is the least of your worries most of the time. Wiring adapters
exist to go from the factory plug to individual hookup wires for
almost every popular car on the road.

Some radios (none that I know of from Chrysler) have anti-theft
features that come on if the radio's electronics "think" that they
aren't in the original vehicle or if the radio loses power. Others may
have an external audio power amplifier.

Since your radio has the function of each connector printed on it,
you're just about good to go. If your truck has suitable wiring and
speakers, all you have to do is find out which lead is which. The
factory service manual, an adapter for your vehicle's wiring or
perhaps even a car audio sales company/installer like Crutchfield
could provide that information.

At the very least, you will need to connect a ground (black wire or
run to clean (unpainted, not rusty) body metal), a constantly-powered
source of +12 volts (for the clock and station memories, and sometimes
required for the radio to work at all), switched +12 volts (turns on
and off with the key), the antenna and at least one speaker.

The lights connector is optional and you might just want to leave it
unplugged. What it does is provide a signal to the radio from the
dimmer switch or wheel control that adjusts the intensity of
backlighting present in the instrument panel. Without this signal, the
radio's own indicator lights will typically come on at full
brightness.

All other leads are optional. Insulate any that you don't use so they
won't short to ground. This will blow fuses or damage your radio!

It should be just fine to connect to the pins directly, although I
would use tight fitting friction-fit connectors as opposed to solder,
which might be difficult to apply without shorting pins and subject to
breakage from vibration.

William

Hi!

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about.

Some radios (typically Delco units from GM vehicles) have an anti-
theft system that kicks in if the radio loses power. I haven't seen
this on any Chrysler radios.

Newer (again, my focus is on GM) radios supposedly communicate with
the other computers in the vehicle and compare a copy of the VIN
stored in some kind of permanent memory to what the vehicle says is
own VIN is. If the two don't match, the radio locks out.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT

Constant +12V (possibly fused) for the clock and station memories.

ACC

Switched +12V for primary radio power

ILL

"Illumination" as in the feed coming from the vehicle's panel dimmer
control.

PARK

not sure

RF-

Right front speaker -

LF-

Left front speaker -

MUTE

Yes, this is for an external muting function. I'm not sure what its
purpose might be as I've never seen an external "mute" control on a
Chrysler sound system. It's very possible that this is something to be
used with steering wheel mounted audio controls.

RR-

Right rear speaker -

LR-

Left rear speaker -

RF+

Right front speaker +

LF+

Left front speaker +

RR+

Right rear speaker +

LR+

Left rear speaker +

ANT

The pin connector is used to cue a power antenna. When the radio is
turned on, +12 volts appears on this pin and closes a relay located on
the power antenna unit. This causes the antenna to go up.

When the radio turns off, the +12 volts disappears from this pin, the
relay opens and the antenna goes down.

This pin is usually fairly limited in the amount of current it can
supply. It can also be used to cue (turn on) an external power
amplifier if you have one.

The push-in antenna jack is for the actual antenna unit itself.

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with
some resistors..

I can't say as I've seen that issue, and I've set up a lot of radios
where only the front set of speakers were used. Insulating and taping
off the unused wires so they could not possibly short out against any
body metal or the radio itself has always worked more than well enough
for me.

There's nothing all that complicated about this--most new aftermarket
stereos you buy today have many of the same exact connections onboard.
Take it slow, double check your connections and I'm sure the stereo
will work perfectly for your needs.

William

JR North wrote:
The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

wrote in message
...
Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.


Why don't you learn a lesson from them and get with the times, creep****.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

You can't make it fit ****tard, the Chrysler radio is larger than the Ford
radio.

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

No, what you need to do is learn to use Google.
\

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks


yeah, repost this to alt.car.audio and leave this repair newsgroup open to
repair issues dickhead.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:23:52 -0400, Jamie wrote:

JR North wrote:
The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

I put a Ford alternator in a Chyrsler.


I put a second alternator in my '66 GTO.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 25 May 2008 16:49:16 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:


Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:23:52 -0400, Jamie wrote:

JR North wrote:
The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

I put a Ford alternator in a Chyrsler.


I put a second alternator in my '66 GTO.

Why?


To save time when I blew the bearings out of the main alternator. I
could flip the belt and move the control plug in under a minute, along
the side of the road with nothing more than an open ended 5/8" wrench.
Almost every time I red lined the engine, the ball bearings in the
alternator exploded.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:23:52 -0400, Jamie wrote:

JR North wrote:
The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

I put a Ford alternator in a Chyrsler.



You can put almost anything into anything with the right brackets and
adapters. Guys who build custom cars will make all sorts of crazy
frankensteins, been doing it for decades.

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:39:18 +0000 (UTC), bz
wrote:

wrote in news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@
4ax.com:

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this?

Yep. The radio in my wifes 93 Honda isn't working right now because we need
to go to the dealer and get the code. We had to pull a fuse to check
something and have lost the code.

I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

Most car radios/stereos now have a factory programmed security code.
If the power is disconnected, you need to key the code in through the
channel buttons before the radio will work.

This is to discourage thieves from ripping out your dash to steal your
radio.
They can't use or sell it (or that is the theory) because it can't be used
without the code.

Many more recent car radios have "Face Off" security. The front panel
is removable and is supposed to be taken with you when you leave the
car.

Many more recent car radios have "Face Off" security. The front panel
is removable and is supposed to be taken with you when you leave the
car.



That's been around for decades, in the last 10 years or so practically
every aftermarket unit is detachable face, but decent ones also have a
security code. It's a hassle to take the face off everywhere, I only
remove mine when I park in a sketchy area, if someone does make off with
it some other time, it'll be useless. Amazes me anyone still steals car
stereos, they're so cheap now, I guess junkies will rip off anything
that isn't nailed down and some things that are.

Meat Plow wrote:

Maybe an under run pulley and belt kit would have done the job.


We are talking over 35 years ago. I finally found a larger pulley for
the alternator from a heavy duty Delco truck alternator. The other
pulley was over the water pump, and would have required custom
machining. I was in the middle of nowhere, AKA southern Alabama at Ft.
Rucker Army base at the time. There was no easy way to find parts back
then, and the rip-off speed shops would only look for a part if you let
them install it. A three dollar bearing every couple months was easier
than over $250 and letting them screw with my car.


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http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep.

On May 24, 8:22*pm, "Nicole Bischoff" wrote:
wrote in message

...

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. *Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. *It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. *The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. *I can see the radio is nearly new. *I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Why don't you learn a lesson from them and get with the times, creep****.



What got your panties in such a twist?

Meat Plow wrote:

On Thu, 29 May 2008 13:06:42 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:


Meat Plow wrote:

Maybe an under run pulley and belt kit would have done the job.


We are talking over 35 years ago. I finally found a larger pulley for
the alternator from a heavy duty Delco truck alternator. The other
pulley was over the water pump, and would have required custom
machining. I was in the middle of nowhere, AKA southern Alabama at Ft.
Rucker Army base at the time. There was no easy way to find parts back
then, and the rip-off speed shops would only look for a part if you let
them install it. A three dollar bearing every couple months was easier
than over $250 and letting them screw with my car.

Understood.


The second alternator confused the crap out of the gas jockeys.
That, and all the chrome & polished aluminum under the hood, along with
the 1 AWG welding cable I made the custom battery cables from. By the
time they realized I had a three speed automatic they were babbling.
After all, everyone KNEW it was impossible to fit it under a '66 GTO.
;-)


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

There is, or was a guy in Alabama and he built and sold some high
powered super duper CB Radios.I heard about him when I was listening to
CB radio over ten years ago.The amplifiers for those radios required
several alternators.He mostly sold those suped up radios to 18 wheeler
truck drivers.I once heard tell if the CB radio's antenna was aimed at a
car, it would fry the car's electronics and stop the engine stone cold
dead.
Have any of y'all ever heard of that guy before?
cuhulin

In article ,
wrote:

There is, or was a guy in Alabama and he built and sold some high
powered super duper CB Radios.I heard about him when I was listening to
CB radio over ten years ago.The amplifiers for those radios required
several alternators.He mostly sold those suped up radios to 18 wheeler
truck drivers.I once heard tell if the CB radio's antenna was aimed at a
car, it would fry the car's electronics and stop the engine stone cold
dead.
Have any of y'all ever heard of that guy before?
cuhulin

Heard of him? Hell, dude, that was my cousin. Those monster amplifiers
really could fry a car's electronics. The cops still use 'em down in
Mississippi to stop people who are trying to run from them. Too bad
they're illegal in all the other states.

They've also been known to knock the fillings right out of your teeth,
and cause women to have spontaneous orgasms. The "Big Daddy" version
used to sell for $28,000, and it put out 50,000 watts. Of course it had
a bank of sixteen KT88s with solid gold pins.

Anyway, my cousin passed away six years ago, syphilis you know, so you
can't get those things anymore. Saw one on eBay a couple years back, but
it sold for $90,000 to some collector in Eastern Europe.

Meat Plow wrote:

Neighbor used to own a 66 Ventura convertible with a 352 CUI 4bbl 8 under
the hood. Wish I had one sitting in my drive that was a fantastically fun
car. But the Goat was my favorite muscle car followed by the Mopars.


It was red, with a black and woodgrain interior. It had the soft shell
doors, and several modifications that the Pontiac garage said couldn't
be done.

I didn't get to install it, but I built a "Factory" AM/FM/Stereo
radio from Delco parts, starting with a new surplus 72 buick radio. The
only thing I let slide was there was no stereo indicator in the dial.
I even tracked down the under dash Delco 8-track tape player, with
the chrome that matched the console.

I never did find out what the top end speed was. I had the
speedometer off the scale more than once, and bent a push rod each time.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida