I just got this Magnavox FP5230 television off of Freecycle. I figured
it'd be nice for awhile, and get me more involved in home electronics.
I did some stuff with electronics in college, but apparantly not enough
to scare me away from it. I wanted to share my thoughts on what I'm
getting into, and I hoped you guys could make sure my head's on right to
do this; you might even answer some of my questions.

The original owners had the television inspected, and they were told
"the board" is fried, due to the voltage regulator attached to it. They
were told this is somewhat common for that model. The parts should
still be readily available, and I'd be looking at $400 if I had a tech
do the parts and pay for labor. I was hoping to muck with it myself
though. Is there a diagnostics procedure specific to those components I
could take to second what was told? I don't know the techs these people
chose, so I want to try and independently verify.

What I have done so far is hooked up an external input. I managed to
get audio out of it, but no video at all. Nothing comes up when I push
the "menu" button. So it looks like I'm not getting anything on the
screen at all.

I'm assuming "the board" is the "video processor board" that I see
coming up on google. Where do I look for the part number for that and
the voltage regulator?

Regarding the voltage regulator, is there anything further upstream I
should be checking? I don't know where they kept the television, but
I'd assume the thing just got too hot after years of use. That sounds
common enough of a problem, but I wonder if instead there'd be a
component that could trigger that regulator, and that I should be
replacing it too/instead.

Well here I am, replying to myself like usual. I talked to the original
owners, and they said it was the power supply board. Their story likes
to change. Would anybody know if the flyback transformer would cause
this? I'm assuming not, because the audio works fine. However, it's a
rear projection TV and I assume all bets are off there; audio could be
getting its juice elsewhere.

I thought I'd add stuff from the FAQ -- I didn't realize it was part of
the group's FAQ until I checked it again. Specifically:

http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/...html#TVFAQ_004

I have sound, but no raster. I can hear the horizontal deflection, but
I don't get any static or any hint of the display trying to display
anything--even black.

The flyback transform buzzes, but not very loudly. I wouldn't hear it
from across the room. My assumption there is that it is actually working.

Don't make any assumptions based on what the original owners said.
It's secondhand information from people who don't understand the
technical details. And it wasn't repaired, so it was only a guess
anyway.

Make your own tests and measurements.

Adam Preble wrote:

The original owners had the television inspected, and they were told
"the board" is fried, due to the voltage regulator attached to it. They
were told this is somewhat common for that model. The parts should
still be readily available, and I'd be looking at $400 if I had a tech
do the parts and pay for labor. I was hoping to muck with it myself
though.

In article ,
says...
The original owners had the television inspected, and they were told
"the board" is fried, due to the voltage regulator attached to it.
They were told this is somewhat common for that model.

Sounds like "module jockeys". I wouldn't put much faith in that
information.

What I have done so far is hooked up an external input. I managed to
get audio out of it, but no video at all. Nothing comes up when I push
the "menu" button. So it looks like I'm not getting anything on the
screen at all.

If you get sound, the "regulator" is probably fine.

I'm assuming "the board" is the "video processor board" that I see
coming up on google.

More likely the large signal board (LSB), which has the power
and deflection circuits.

Unlike small TV's that most of us are accustomed to, the horizontal
deflection and high voltage circuits are separate. These sets also
have protection circuits that shut down high voltage or blank video
if they sense any number of error conditions like loss of scan,
excessive beam current, etc.

Having said that:
If the tube filaments light, you have horizontal deflection.
The buzzing you hear is probably vertical deflection.

A bad thing happened on some of these sets if connected to, say, a
VCR that goes to blue screen due to loss of signal. Blue tube after
being driven 100% for awhile gets so hot that it will actually crack
and lose vacuum. Sometimes you can see the crack through the lens,
sometimes it drips onto the LSB, which burns things up, but in either
case the blue tube now draws excessive beam current which shuts down
high voltage. Usually throw away when this happens.

If that hasn't happened, a common electrical failure is for the high
voltage transformer T900 to break down, which causes the HVOT transistor
Q906 to overheat and short out, which blows open 0.33 Ohm fusible
resistor R934. R934 is hidden in front of the heat sink on the right
front of the board. It's not easy to get at, but easy to test once you
do. If open, it usually means T900 and Q906 are both bad. Couple hun
to fix, but usually worth it.

If not one of the above, check back for more ideas.

Wow, this is some good stuff. Thanks!

Bill S. wrote:
If you get sound, the "regulator" is probably fine.

I'm assuming they were talking about the flyback transformer.

More likely the large signal board (LSB), which has the power
and deflection circuits.

Is that the large board dead-center in the rear the TV?

Having said that:
If the tube filaments light, you have horizontal deflection.
The buzzing you hear is probably vertical deflection.

I don't see any activity in the tubes. Is it very subtle?

A bad thing happened on some of these sets if connected to, say, a
VCR that goes to blue screen due to loss of signal. Blue tube after
being driven 100% for awhile gets so hot that it will actually crack
and lose vacuum. Sometimes you can see the crack through the lens,
sometimes it drips onto the LSB, which burns things up, but in either
case the blue tube now draws excessive beam current which shuts down
high voltage. Usually throw away when this happens.

I'm assuming I'd be able to tell this right away. I don't see anything
amongst all the dust in there television.

If that hasn't happened, a common electrical failure is for the high
voltage transformer T900 to break down, which causes the HVOT transistor
Q906 to overheat and short out, which blows open 0.33 Ohm fusible
resistor R934. R934 is hidden in front of the heat sink on the right
front of the board. It's not easy to get at, but easy to test once you
do. If open, it usually means T900 and Q906 are both bad. Couple hun
to fix, but usually worth it.

That's some good tips. I got my gloves on and started playing around
with that resistor. It was exactly where you said. My multimeter isn't
the best, so I don't know if it would detect that as a short. It
certainly didn't. I know I wouldn't get the specified resistance if I
tried plugging in straight, but I figured the equivalent power-off
resistance (assuming a day unplugged) showed 60k kOhms for that
resistor. What is most telling is it looks like a chunk on the right
side of it has burnt out. It's rough right there, so I suspect it has
blown.

If that's a sign that it's blown, I'll clip it off at one end so I can
measure current through that path. Do you know how much current should
go through that when powered up? I just wanted to check before I did
that. I don't have a soldering iron on hand right now. But if it comes
down to that, I can get a Weller in a hurry.

In article ,
says...
If the tube filaments light, you have horizontal deflection.
The buzzing you hear is probably vertical deflection.

I don't see any activity in the tubes. Is it very subtle?

To see the tube filaments glow, you probably need to be looking
through the convergence board access hole in the front of the set.

snip
If that hasn't happened, a common electrical failure is for the high
voltage transformer T900 to break down, which causes the HVOT transistor
Q906 to overheat and short out, which blows open 0.33 Ohm fusible
resistor R934. R934 is hidden in front of the heat sink on the right
front of the board. It's not easy to get at, but easy to test once you
do. If open, it usually means T900 and Q906 are both bad. Couple hun
to fix, but usually worth it.

That's some good tips. I got my gloves on and started playing around
with that resistor. It was exactly where you said. My multimeter isn't
the best, so I don't know if it would detect that as a short. It
certainly didn't. I know I wouldn't get the specified resistance if I
tried plugging in straight, but I figured the equivalent power-off
resistance (assuming a day unplugged) showed 60k kOhms for that
resistor. What is most telling is it looks like a chunk on the right
side of it has burnt out. It's rough right there, so I suspect it has
blown.

Most multimeters will show a couple tenths of an Ohm with the
leads shorted. If the 0.33 Ohm resistor doesn't show in the same
neighborhood, it's bad. The actual value is not critical in this
application, it's there to be a fuse. And yours certainly sounds
like it's blown.

If that's a sign that it's blown, I'll clip it off at one end so I can
measure current through that path. Do you know how much current should
go through that when powered up?

I wouldn't recommend trying to measure the current. You may damage
your meter or other parts of the board, or more likely the power
supply will current-limit and you won't get useful data anyway.
Instead measure collector to emitter resistance of Q906 (use low
Ohms range). I bet it's shorted, and if so it's almost always
caused by T900 being bad.

I don't have a soldering iron on hand right now. But if it comes
down to that, I can get a Weller in a hurry.

Not the best tool for the job, but can be used in a pinch. If you
are not practiced in the art of desoldering, you might want to
experiment with some unimportant throwaway pc board until you can
remove large parts without peeling off traces. The flyback can
be especially frustrating, as it has a lot of large pins. You'll
need some solderwick or one of those solder-pullit things.

And let us know when you get to removing the HV wire from the old
flyback, it's a bit tricky too.

Bill, I think you're my new messiah:

Bill S. wrote:
I wouldn't recommend trying to measure the current. You may damage
your meter or other parts of the board, or more likely the power
supply will current-limit and you won't get useful data anyway.
Instead measure collector to emitter resistance of Q906 (use low
Ohms range). I bet it's shorted, and if so it's almost always
caused by T900 being bad.

It's nice of them to label that one on the board. I measured a low
resistance between the collector and the emitter, and my multimeter
actually chirped when I tested for a short. It is hard to get the
probes in that space, since a capacitor is in the way, but I tried it
twice and got a short each time.

I was told flyback transformers are the common thing to go on
televisions in general. Are you saying this transistor, that fuse
resistor, and the transformer are likely the things to change?

Not the best tool for the job, but can be used in a pinch. If you
are not practiced in the art of desoldering, you might want to
experiment with some unimportant throwaway pc board until you can
remove large parts without peeling off traces. The flyback can
be especially frustrating, as it has a lot of large pins. You'll
need some solderwick or one of those solder-pullit things.

I know it goes OT, but what kind of iron do you recommend then? I've
done some desoldering, but my worst experience with it was desoldering
on perfboard, but I'd take out the rings sometimes. You'd bet I'd
practice before trying to pull off a big blob. That and the flyback
would kill me in the process of playing with it.

And let us know when you get to removing the HV wire from the old
flyback, it's a bit tricky too.

I see some stuff in the FAQ about it. I have to get myself a few high
watt, mega ohm resistors. I'm hoping if I leave it unplugged a few
days, it will only mildly kill me as oppose to completely free me. wink

Second response since I've looked into replacing these parts. I can get
a replacement flyback transformer supposedly for $81.70 at PartseStore.com

http://www.partstore.com/ModelDetail...delID=168 744

It fits my television model perfectly, but I don't know if that's T900.
There's one for $74 also; what do I use?

Q906 is a D1556, with "4E" printed on it in smaller letters. Discarding
the 4E, I can get a replacement NTE2331 for ~$6. The fuseable resistor
should be easy enough to find locally. Maybe I can get this all
locally--anybody know good parts places in Austin, TX? Just thought I'd
ask.

I see the transistor is used for horizontal deflection. So would that
explain the lack of display right there? What about vertical?

Given that fuseable resistor and that transistor are burnt, what else
should I consider replacing?

In article ,
says...
Bill, I think you're my new messiah:

Just happen to have seen a few of these in my employment at
a (former) Magnavox dealer.

I was told flyback transformers are the common thing to go on
televisions in general.

Twenty KV plus is rough service even for parts designed for it.

Are you saying this transistor, that fuse resistor, and the
transformer are likely the things to change?

High probability, yes.

I know it goes OT, but what kind of iron do you recommend then?

Probably not what you want to hear, but I use a dedicated desoldering
tool, Pace MP-1 that cost several hundred. It has hollow tips and
built-in vacuum pump. Hard to justify the cost for occaisional jobs
like you're doing, but well worth it when you do this sort of thing
nearly every day. I think Ungar made a lower-cost squeeze bulb type
of tool, which I haven't tried, think maybe Weller owns this design
now.

And let us know when you get to removing the HV wire from the old
flyback, it's a bit tricky too.

I see some stuff in the FAQ about it. I have to get myself a few high
watt, mega ohm resistors. I'm hoping if I leave it unplugged a few
days, it will only mildly kill me as oppose to completely free me.

The focus/screen control block has a built-in bleeder resistor, so if
it has been off for a few minutes the HV is already bled away. I've
never had one of these bite me (unlike normal TV's). I was referring
to the mechanics of the clip that holds the HV wire into the flyback.
I think maybe the replacement flybacks come with a new clip nowadays.

In article ,
says...
Second response since I've looked into replacing these parts. I can get
a replacement flyback transformer supposedly for $81.70 at PartseStore.com

http://www.partstore.com/ModelDetail...delID=168 744

It fits my television model perfectly, but I don't know if that's T900.
There's one for $74 also; what do I use?

4835 140 67104 is the original part number, and
4835 140 67128 is the replacement number.
Either one would work, but you will probably find that 67104 isn't
available unless someone has one that's been gathering dust on the
shelf for quite awhile.

Q906 is a D1556, with "4E" printed on it in smaller letters. Discarding
the 4E, I can get a replacement NTE2331 for ~$6.

Should work. 4E is probably a date or batch code.

I see the transistor is used for horizontal deflection. So would that
explain the lack of display right there? What about vertical?

No, actually Q802/T801 does horizontal deflection, tube filaments,
28 Volt supply for vertical and a couple others. Q906/T900 does
only the High Voltage for the CRT's, which is (usually) why you get
no picture but everything else works.

Given that fuseable resistor and that transistor are burnt, what else
should I consider replacing?

Usually T900, Q906, R934 are all that is needed, unless there is
something else wrong with the set. I'd give the solder joints a good
visual inspection while the board is out and re-do any that look bad.
Barring elctrical problems, it's likely to need fluid change/optical
cleaning, minor convergence and color balance tweaking.

Bill S. wrote:
4835 140 67104 is the original part number, and
4835 140 67128 is the replacement number.
Either one would work, but you will probably find that 67104 isn't
available unless someone has one that's been gathering dust on the
shelf for quite awhile.

I managed to find a 67104 for about $74. It came to $90 with shipping
and tax. I'll see when it shows up--God bless the Internet . . .

I see the transistor is used for horizontal deflection. So would that
explain the lack of display right there? What about vertical?


No, actually Q802/T801 does horizontal deflection, tube filaments,
28 Volt supply for vertical and a couple others. Q906/T900 does
only the High Voltage for the CRT's, which is (usually) why you get
no picture but everything else works.

That's odd; I thought the datasheet stated it was horizontal deflection.
As long as it works . . .


Usually T900, Q906, R934 are all that is needed, unless there is
something else wrong with the set. I'd give the solder joints a good
visual inspection while the board is out and re-do any that look bad.
Barring elctrical problems, it's likely to need fluid change/optical
cleaning, minor convergence and color balance tweaking.

I've read some stuff in the FAQ and convergence and color balance. I
guess I have to get myself a test pattern. It has an S-Video in so I
figured my laptop could provide that signal. This is the first I've
heard that there's fluid to change in a television. I see on google
what it's roughly about. Does it come down to scooping stuff out with a
turkey baster?

As for optical cleaning, I assume rubbing it with Q-tips of some
solution would be ideal; perhaps using one of those towelletes that come
with glasses. I'm not going to guess what exactly, but it seems like
there's good information online about it.

I'll update with a new thread when I get the parts and my tools ready.
It'll be fun taking off that board so I can mess with the parts easily.

In article ,
says...
This is the first I've heard that there's fluid to change in a television.
I see on google what it's roughly about. Does it come down to scooping
stuff out with a turkey baster?

I haven't tried a turkey baster, sounds like it could be messy.
I use an ordinary vacuum cleaner plus a collection chamber made with
an oxygen bubbler (medical supply house will probably call it a
humidifier) and associated vinyl tubing plus a certain type of
toilet tank flush flapper that adapts the vacuum hose to smaller
tubing nicely. The collection chamber avoids sucking fluid directly
into the vacuum's hose, which would pretty much ruin it for any
other use.

Depending on the way the set is constructed, you sometimes have to
tilt it forward or backward so that the fill hole is uphill, but
this is a lot less work than what the factory expects you to do,
which is to remove all the CRT's from the set.

Whatever you do, don't dribble it on the circuit board or wiring,
because it is somewhat conductive.

As for optical cleaning, I assume rubbing it with Q-tips of some
solution would be ideal; perhaps using one of those towelletes that come
with glasses.

Plain toilet paper, kleenex (not the stuff with lotion), or kitchen
towels work good for the majority of the work, finish up with
something lint-free. Sometimes have to make a pass with methanol
or isopropyl to cut nicotine or grease film, then follow on with
Windex.

Obviously, don't worry about the optics until you have the electrical
working.

I strongly suggest doing it right, pulling the tubes out, taking them apart,
cleaning all of the contaminated material out, resealing, refilling and
re-installing.

Leonard

"Bill S." wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
This is the first I've heard that there's fluid to change in a
television.
I see on google what it's roughly about. Does it come down to scooping
stuff out with a turkey baster?

I haven't tried a turkey baster, sounds like it could be messy.
I use an ordinary vacuum cleaner plus a collection chamber made with
an oxygen bubbler (medical supply house will probably call it a
humidifier) and associated vinyl tubing plus a certain type of
toilet tank flush flapper that adapts the vacuum hose to smaller
tubing nicely. The collection chamber avoids sucking fluid directly
into the vacuum's hose, which would pretty much ruin it for any
other use.

Depending on the way the set is constructed, you sometimes have to
tilt it forward or backward so that the fill hole is uphill, but
this is a lot less work than what the factory expects you to do,
which is to remove all the CRT's from the set.

Whatever you do, don't dribble it on the circuit board or wiring,
because it is somewhat conductive.

As for optical cleaning, I assume rubbing it with Q-tips of some
solution would be ideal; perhaps using one of those towelletes that come
with glasses.

Plain toilet paper, kleenex (not the stuff with lotion), or kitchen
towels work good for the majority of the work, finish up with
something lint-free. Sometimes have to make a pass with methanol
or isopropyl to cut nicotine or grease film, then follow on with
Windex.

Obviously, don't worry about the optics until you have the electrical
working.

In article ,
says...
I strongly suggest doing it right, pulling the tubes out, taking them apart,
cleaning all of the contaminated material out, resealing, refilling and
re-installing.

Would you remove the engine from your car to change oil and
filter? Pulling the tubes is a *lot* more work, exposes them
to an increased risk of damage, and is normally unnecessary,
as you can clean all the optics just as well in situ. If you
feel the need to clean the anode leads, then removing the tubes
would make that a bit easier. And I guess if you are sloppy
about draining/filling, pulling the tubes moves your mess
somewhere else. I've been putting down a towel as a safety
measure. The vacuum collection chamber idea sounds interesting.
If it works well, it could make for a pretty slick operation.
I guess it's a matter of choice, but I usually leave the tubes
in place unless there's a compelling reason to move them, and
I tend to discount your implication that Bill is somehow doing
it wrong. It sounds to me like he might know what he's doing.

"Ol' Duffer" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
I strongly suggest doing it right, pulling the tubes out, taking them
apart,
cleaning all of the contaminated material out, resealing, refilling and
re-installing.

Would you remove the engine from your car to change oil and
filter? Pulling the tubes is a *lot* more work, exposes them
to an increased risk of damage, and is normally unnecessary,
as you can clean all the optics just as well in situ. If you
feel the need to clean the anode leads, then removing the tubes
would make that a bit easier. And I guess if you are sloppy
about draining/filling, pulling the tubes moves your mess
somewhere else. I've been putting down a towel as a safety
measure. The vacuum collection chamber idea sounds interesting.
If it works well, it could make for a pretty slick operation.
I guess it's a matter of choice, but I usually leave the tubes
in place unless there's a compelling reason to move them, and
I tend to discount your implication that Bill is somehow doing
it wrong. It sounds to me like he might know what he's doing.

How can you possibly get all of the contaminated coolant out? How can you
possibly clean the encrusted residue from the lens without dissassembly. I
guess if you never took one apart you would not realize what it takes to
really clean these things. Actually, removing the crts is not that much
trouble, and there is no risk of getting coolant on the boards or anode
leads.

I have gone behind techs who have changed coolant in the home without
removing the tubes and the results were not very impressive.

If I needed to clean encrusted matter and contaminants that affected the
performance of my car I would certainly remove the engine and take it apart.
Fortunately, this is not the case, so your analogy is meaningless.

Leonard

In article sPACf.21716$bF.917@dukeread07, says...
How can you possibly get all of the contaminated coolant out? How can you
possibly clean the encrusted residue from the lens without dissassembly.

Well, duh! Of course you take the lens off. Don't have to pull the
tube to do that.

If I needed to clean encrusted matter and contaminants that affected the
performance of my car I would certainly remove the engine and take it apart.

You can do that even if there is an easier way that costs less and
works just as well. Your money, your choice.

I strongly suggest doing it right, pulling the tubes out, taking them
apart, cleaning all of the contaminated material out, resealing,
refilling and re-installing.

Would you remove the engine from your car to change oil and
filter?

He probably takes it to Jiffy Lube to get it "done right".
That probably was unfair, but I couldn't resist.

But really, there's more than one way to skin a cat. A good tech
can do miracles with chewing gum and tape, while a poor one will
screw up in spite of the best parts, tools, and procedures.

The factory folks rarely have to deal with the tubes in any
condition except filled and ready to install, and they would
rather sell a new set anyway, so there's no incentive for them
to figure out a more efficient cleaning method.

Aftermarket repair, on the other hand, is highly competitive.
Compare taking all day and charging $400 (which is what most
shops do) with making it look easy and being out before lunch
with just as good a picture for $150. Which do you think the
customer is going to be happier with, and more likely to call
for the next job?

I can't take credit for the vacuum collection chamber, by the
way, a co-worker turned me on to that, but I like it.

In article sPACf.21716$bF.917@dukeread07, says...
I have gone behind techs who have changed coolant in the home without
removing the tubes and the results were not very impressive.

I've gone behind a tech who somehow managed to switch the blue
and green tubes, and that wasn't impressive.

If I needed to clean encrusted matter and contaminants that affected the
performance of my car I would certainly remove the engine and take it apart.
Fortunately, this is not the case, so your analogy is meaningless.

Most cleaning and repairs are done with the engine in the car.
Usually doesn't come out unless machining is needed. There are
exceptions, of course, where poor design makes routine maintenance
impossible. And even then, they often come up with a workaround.
I am reminded of the Chevy Monza, where it was impossible to change
one of the spark plugs. The repair kit consisted of a hole saw, a
template to show where to put the hole in the inner fender, and a
rubber plug to fill the hole when done.

My opinion is that doing the job with the CRTs in the set is not easier
enough to justify the risk of not getting all of the contaminants out and
getting coolant on the anode lead or circuit boards. I know lots of techs
do it another way, but I have seen a number of them that had to be redone
and that ended up with problems from coolant getting in places that it
should not. Just my opinion, but when a technique risks creating problems,
it seems the safer, more thorough way of doing it is the more professional
way to go.

Leonard

"Bill S." wrote in message
...
I strongly suggest doing it right, pulling the tubes out, taking them
apart, cleaning all of the contaminated material out, resealing,
refilling and re-installing.

Would you remove the engine from your car to change oil and
filter?

He probably takes it to Jiffy Lube to get it "done right".
That probably was unfair, but I couldn't resist.

But really, there's more than one way to skin a cat. A good tech
can do miracles with chewing gum and tape, while a poor one will
screw up in spite of the best parts, tools, and procedures.

The factory folks rarely have to deal with the tubes in any
condition except filled and ready to install, and they would
rather sell a new set anyway, so there's no incentive for them
to figure out a more efficient cleaning method.

Aftermarket repair, on the other hand, is highly competitive.
Compare taking all day and charging $400 (which is what most
shops do) with making it look easy and being out before lunch
with just as good a picture for $150. Which do you think the
customer is going to be happier with, and more likely to call
for the next job?

I can't take credit for the vacuum collection chamber, by the
way, a co-worker turned me on to that, but I like it.

Ah yes, the infamous Chevy 268 Cubic Inch V-8 for the Monza. Definitely a
design nightmare from the mid-70's! Most owners just left that last spark
plug in there and did not change it till it caused a misfire condition...

Bob

"Bill S." wrote in message
...
In article sPACf.21716$bF.917@dukeread07, says...
Most cleaning and repairs are done with the engine in the car.
Usually doesn't come out unless machining is needed. There are
exceptions, of course, where poor design makes routine maintenance
impossible. And even then, they often come up with a workaround.
I am reminded of the Chevy Monza, where it was impossible to change
one of the spark plugs. The repair kit consisted of a hole saw, a
template to show where to put the hole in the inner fender, and a
rubber plug to fill the hole when done.

Bill S. wrote:
In article sPACf.21716$bF.917@dukeread07, says...
I have gone behind techs who have changed coolant in the home without
removing the tubes and the results were not very impressive.

I've gone behind a tech who somehow managed to switch the blue
and green tubes, and that wasn't impressive.

If I needed to clean encrusted matter and contaminants that affected the
performance of my car I would certainly remove the engine and take it apart.
Fortunately, this is not the case, so your analogy is meaningless.

Most cleaning and repairs are done with the engine in the car.
Usually doesn't come out unless machining is needed. There are
exceptions, of course, where poor design makes routine maintenance
impossible. And even then, they often come up with a workaround.
I am reminded of the Chevy Monza, where it was impossible to change
one of the spark plugs. The repair kit consisted of a hole saw, a
template to show where to put the hole in the inner fender, and a
rubber plug to fill the hole when done.


I had a '70 Impala with a bad heater core. I futzed and futzed trying
to figure out how to get that *last* bolt out. I finally gave up and
consulted the official manual at a friendly dealer.

Official method: *DRILL* the bolt out from the inside...or else remove
the inner and outer right fenders.

Guess which method I chose....

jak