Anyone have experience with the "Next Generation" Remote Control
Extenders?

Or recommendations for alternate types?

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

America: Land of the Free, Because of the Brave

Jim,

"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...
Anyone have experience with the "Next Generation" Remote Control
Extenders?

What do you mean by, "Next Generation?"

I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Terk-Technolog.../dp/B000069EV0
.... and it worked fine (we had a DVD player in a hall closest controlled by us
in the bedroom). (Now it's just in a box since we moved and I don't have a
need for it anymore -- want it?)

---Joel

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:34:11 -0700, "Joel Kolstad"
wrote:

Jim,

"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...
Anyone have experience with the "Next Generation" Remote Control
Extenders?

What do you mean by, "Next Generation?"

I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Terk-Technolog.../dp/B000069EV0
... and it worked fine (we had a DVD player in a hall closest controlled by us
in the bedroom). (Now it's just in a box since we moved and I don't have a
need for it anymore -- want it?)

---Joel


"Next Generation" is a brand.

Sounds clever. One of the AA cells in your remote is replaced with a
rechargeable cell that also includes an RF transmitter at 433MHz. So
you don't have to point, just "click" ;-)

Did you have any "issues" with the Terk unit?

I've just started contemplating "remote" remotes, so I'm open to any
and all suggestions, cautions, etc.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

America: Land of the Free, Because of the Brave

Hi Jim,

"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...
"Next Generation" is a brand.

Sounds clever. One of the AA cells in your remote is replaced with a
rechargeable cell that also includes an RF transmitter at 433MHz. So
you don't have to point, just "click" ;-)

Ah, yeah, I've seen that one advertised; it does seem clever.

Did you have any "issues" with the Terk unit?

No, although we weren't really "stressing" the unit: There was only one in the
house and the required range was only about 15' through one wall.

---Joel

Jim Thompson wrote:

"Next Generation" is a brand.

Sounds clever. One of the AA cells in your remote is replaced with a
rechargeable cell that also includes an RF transmitter at 433MHz. So
you don't have to point, just "click" ;-)


Several of my remotes have a single AA or AAA cell. That would be
real interesting to see it work.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Joel Kolstad wrote:

Hi Jim,

"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...

"Next Generation" is a brand.

Sounds clever. One of the AA cells in your remote is replaced with a
rechargeable cell that also includes an RF transmitter at 433MHz. So
you don't have to point, just "click" ;-)


Ah, yeah, I've seen that one advertised; it does seem clever.


Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that
rechargeable holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so
I'd give it a thumbs down.


Did you have any "issues" with the Terk unit?


No, although we weren't really "stressing" the unit: There was only one in the
house and the required range was only about 15' through one wall.


--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.

If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.

---Joel

Joel Kolstad wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...

Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

flipper wrote:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:


Joel Kolstad wrote:


"Joerg" wrote in message
. net...


Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.


My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

"Joerg" wrote in message
...


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


The bad part is when there are menus that can't be selected by the front
panel!

Joerg wrote:

flipper wrote:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:


Joel Kolstad wrote:


"Joerg" wrote in message
. net...


Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.

My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).


Trunk lid? That's better than the hood at 55 MPH.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Joerg wrote:

flipper wrote:


On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



Joel Kolstad wrote:



"Joerg" wrote in message
y.net...



Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.

My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).



Trunk lid? That's better than the hood at 55 MPH.


Yeah, but this was on an Autobahn. I noticed a sudden "air conditioned
feeling", then saw sparks flying in my rear view. Screeeeech. Luckily it
was at night and other cars were still far off. Ran into the lane,
picked it up.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

"Lord Garth" wrote in message
...
The bad part is when there are menus that can't be selected by the front
panel!

Similar: We have a TV that can only be switched from the regular TV tuner to
the composite video input from a button on the remote. @#$@#%

I've seen TVs that create a virtual "channel 0" for composite input. Even
with a button to directly jump to composite input on the remote, that would
have been a good way to avoid the problem in case the remote was lost.

Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Joerg wrote:

flipper wrote:


On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



Joel Kolstad wrote:



"Joerg" wrote in message
y.net...



Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.

My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).



Trunk lid? That's better than the hood at 55 MPH.


Yeah, but this was on an Autobahn. I noticed a sudden "air conditioned
feeling", then saw sparks flying in my rear view. Screeeeech. Luckily it
was at night and other cars were still far off. Ran into the lane,
picked it up.


One hinge held, but the hood slammed into the side of the car, right
on a weld in the unibody and cracked it. Then it went back up, and into
the engine compartment where smashed the brake fluid reservoir, and the
top of one of the carburetors before it caught on the windshield wiper
post on the driver's side. The inside of the hood was covering the
windshield in heavy traffic on I 75, near Cincinnati. I couldn't see,
had no brakes, and the damaged carburetor wouldn't let me slow down. I
was power downshifting while looking out the side window to stay in my
lane, and every bump caused the cracked weld to grow. By the time I was
able to stop, the crack was all the way from the door post on the
passenger side of the car, to my feet on the driver's side. The car was
a total loss, and caused a lot of people to slam on their brakes and try
to miss me as they slid into the emergency lane. That was the last time
I drove a European built car. French engineering, my ass!


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

In article ,
"Joel Kolstad" wrote:
I've seen TVs that create a virtual "channel 0" for composite input. Even
with a button to directly jump to composite input on the remote, that would
have been a good way to avoid the problem in case the remote was lost.

Design goal - make the sheeple buy a new TV when the remote is
lost/broken. Irritating as #$%^&!

Had a donated TV, no remote, composite WAS channel 0, but the front
panel channel controls would not go to channel 0, even when it was
specifically included in the channel list (consisting only of 3 and 0,
as it was either VCR on 3 or composite). I had to set the alarm to turn
the TV on to channel 0 a minute or two ahead of the current time, turn
it off, and wait for it to turn back on when composite was desired - all
that I could do from the front panel buttons.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Ecnerwal wrote:

In article ,
"Joel Kolstad" wrote:
I've seen TVs that create a virtual "channel 0" for composite input. Even
with a button to directly jump to composite input on the remote, that would
have been a good way to avoid the problem in case the remote was lost.

Design goal - make the sheeple buy a new TV when the remote is
lost/broken. Irritating as #$%^&!

Had a donated TV, no remote, composite WAS channel 0, but the front
panel channel controls would not go to channel 0, even when it was
specifically included in the channel list (consisting only of 3 and 0,
as it was either VCR on 3 or composite). I had to set the alarm to turn
the TV on to channel 0 a minute or two ahead of the current time, turn
it off, and wait for it to turn back on when composite was desired - all
that I could do from the front panel buttons.


http://www.remotes.com/


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

flipper wrote:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 23:02:50 GMT, Joerg
wrote:


flipper wrote:


On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



Joel Kolstad wrote:



"Joerg" wrote in message
y.net...



Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.


My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)


So did mine.

My second car didn't even have a window crank, though. Side windows
fit in a rubber (gasket) 'slot' on the bottom with the top held by
spring clips. Lotus Europa S1.


Mine had a little cantilever spring thingie. Press it and the lower half
pane could be pushed out and up. Citroen 2CV. It actually did have a
rope actuated starter but the 6V batteries had become so expensive that
it wasn't in a student's budget. So I used the crank. A stack of D-cells
provided the initial juice for the ignition coil.



It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).



Good grief, and I thought the Europa was bad for parts falling off,
but they never fell completely off. It's favorite was to drop one end
of the shift lever cross link so you had only 3'rd and 4'th gear.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

flipper wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 13:00:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:


Joerg wrote:


flipper wrote:



On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:




Joel Kolstad wrote:




"Joerg" wrote in message
digy.net...




Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.

My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).



Trunk lid? That's better than the hood at 55 MPH.


Yeah, but this was on an Autobahn. I noticed a sudden "air conditioned
feeling", then saw sparks flying in my rear view. Screeeeech. Luckily it
was at night and other cars were still far off. Ran into the lane,
picked it up.


One hinge held, but the hood slammed into the side of the car, right
on a weld in the unibody and cracked it. Then it went back up, and into
the engine compartment where smashed the brake fluid reservoir, and the
top of one of the carburetors before it caught on the windshield wiper
post on the driver's side. The inside of the hood was covering the
windshield in heavy traffic on I 75, near Cincinnati. I couldn't see,
had no brakes, and the damaged carburetor wouldn't let me slow down.


Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


But not too far, else the steering wheel locks and that can be really
bad news.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

flipper wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 13:00:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Joerg wrote:

flipper wrote:


On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:37 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



Joel Kolstad wrote:



"Joerg" wrote in message
y.net...



Clever it is indeed. The usefulness depends on how long that rechargeable
holds enough charge. If it's the usual three months or so I'd give it a
thumbs down.


If they were *really* clever they'd just suck power from the other batteries
in series to give themselves 1.5V. (Essentially a 1.5-4.5V boost coverter.)

Although obviously that doesn't work for Michael's one-cell remotes.

Are N-type cells the same diameter as AA's? Then you could just go back to
using primary cells.


No idea. However, the main challenge is that any batteries for such
mundane tools must be available at the local grocery. It's pathetic but
nowadays people consider it a major inconvenience when the remote quits
and, gasp, they have to get off the couch to switch the channel.


Yeah. Next thing ya know they'll be wanting electric starters and
windows on their cars instead of hand cranks.

My first car had a hand crank. Worked fine :-)

It's windows were semi-automatic though: Curve to the left, right window
opens a bit. Curve to the right, left window opens. But they never fell
off while driving (the trunk lid did once ...).



Trunk lid? That's better than the hood at 55 MPH.


Yeah, but this was on an Autobahn. I noticed a sudden "air conditioned
feeling", then saw sparks flying in my rear view. Screeeeech. Luckily it
was at night and other cars were still far off. Ran into the lane,
picked it up.


One hinge held, but the hood slammed into the side of the car, right
on a weld in the unibody and cracked it. Then it went back up, and into
the engine compartment where smashed the brake fluid reservoir, and the
top of one of the carburetors before it caught on the windshield wiper
post on the driver's side. The inside of the hood was covering the
windshield in heavy traffic on I 75, near Cincinnati. I couldn't see,
had no brakes, and the damaged carburetor wouldn't let me slow down.

Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


With a manual transmission, at 55 MPH? The car was already
disintegrating around me, I didn't need to att more stress to the failed
unibody. You do it. If you live, you can brag about it.


I
was power downshifting while looking out the side window to stay in my
lane, and every bump caused the cracked weld to grow. By the time I was
able to stop, the crack was all the way from the door post on the
passenger side of the car, to my feet on the driver's side. The car was
a total loss, and caused a lot of people to slam on their brakes and try
to miss me as they slid into the emergency lane. That was the last time
I drove a European built car. French engineering, my ass!


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

flipper wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:27:59 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

flipper wrote:

Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


With a manual transmission, at 55 MPH? The car was already
disintegrating around me, I didn't need to add more stress to the failed
unibody.

Besides it being better to be alive, even with a 'wrecked' car, than
dead with what would, no doubt, also be a wrecked car it isn't any
more stress than normal driving.

You do it. If you live, you can brag about it.

Already have, when the throttle cable on my Lotus Europa seized up
while doing a flat out acceleration run. Cable seized at the 3'rd to
4'th power shift and I simultaneously popped the clutch back in, hit
brakes, and killed the ignition.

Of course, I had picked an absolutely empty road at 3:00 in the
morning to do it, which left the matter of how to get home.

I reworked the manual choke into a limited throttle control and limped
the 20 miles back using that.

Then there was the time the clutch arm broke and I had to drive back
in traffic turning the motor off at stop lights and restarting it
while in gear, but that's another story.

Did I mention the Europa liked to drop parts?


Did I mention that the welds in the floor had cracked, and the
bottom of the body was scraping the highway? Or that the opening was
wide enough for my feet to go through? Or the car that was about 25
feet behind me, blowing his horn for me to get out of his way? The roof
was the only thing holding the car together by the time I got it
stopped.


Did I mention that it was an Opel Cadette?

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

flipper wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:27:59 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


flipper wrote:

Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


With a manual transmission, at 55 MPH? The car was already
disintegrating around me, I didn't need to add more stress to the failed
unibody.

Besides it being better to be alive, even with a 'wrecked' car, than
dead with what would, no doubt, also be a wrecked car it isn't any
more stress than normal driving.


You do it. If you live, you can brag about it.

Already have, when the throttle cable on my Lotus Europa seized up
while doing a flat out acceleration run. Cable seized at the 3'rd to
4'th power shift and I simultaneously popped the clutch back in, hit
brakes, and killed the ignition.

Of course, I had picked an absolutely empty road at 3:00 in the
morning to do it, which left the matter of how to get home.

I reworked the manual choke into a limited throttle control and limped
the 20 miles back using that.

Then there was the time the clutch arm broke and I had to drive back
in traffic turning the motor off at stop lights and restarting it
while in gear, but that's another story.

Did I mention the Europa liked to drop parts?



Did I mention that the welds in the floor had cracked, and the
bottom of the body was scraping the highway? Or that the opening was
wide enough for my feet to go through? Or the car that was about 25
feet behind me, blowing his horn for me to get out of his way? The roof
was the only thing holding the car together by the time I got it
stopped.


Did I mention that it was an Opel Cadette?


That is a German car. Built by a subsidiary of General Motors.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

flipper wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:27:59 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


flipper wrote:

Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


With a manual transmission, at 55 MPH? The car was already
disintegrating around me, I didn't need to add more stress to the failed
unibody.

Besides it being better to be alive, even with a 'wrecked' car, than
dead with what would, no doubt, also be a wrecked car it isn't any
more stress than normal driving.


You do it. If you live, you can brag about it.

Already have, when the throttle cable on my Lotus Europa seized up
while doing a flat out acceleration run. Cable seized at the 3'rd to
4'th power shift and I simultaneously popped the clutch back in, hit
brakes, and killed the ignition.

Of course, I had picked an absolutely empty road at 3:00 in the
morning to do it, which left the matter of how to get home.

I reworked the manual choke into a limited throttle control and limped
the 20 miles back using that.

Then there was the time the clutch arm broke and I had to drive back
in traffic turning the motor off at stop lights and restarting it
while in gear, but that's another story.

Did I mention the Europa liked to drop parts?



Did I mention that the welds in the floor had cracked, and the
bottom of the body was scraping the highway? Or that the opening was
wide enough for my feet to go through? Or the car that was about 25
feet behind me, blowing his horn for me to get out of his way? The roof
was the only thing holding the car together by the time I got it
stopped.


Did I mention that it was an Opel Cadette?


That is a German car. Built by a subsidiary of General Motors.


The serial number plate under the hood said it was built in France.
Buick was the GM division that sold the Opel in the US. Replacement
parts were a real pain int he ass to get. The only reason I had the car
was that the engine had just blown in my van, and a 'friend' told me I
could have the Opel, if I could get it to start. It was sitting behind
the barn on his brother's farm, and had been there about three years. I
stuck the battery from the van in it, poured some gasoline in the
carburetor, and drove it out of the mud. In hindsight, I should have
just left it there.



--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:


flipper wrote:


On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:27:59 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:



flipper wrote:


Turn ignition key to 'off' position.


With a manual transmission, at 55 MPH? The car was already
disintegrating around me, I didn't need to add more stress to the failed
unibody.

Besides it being better to be alive, even with a 'wrecked' car, than
dead with what would, no doubt, also be a wrecked car it isn't any
more stress than normal driving.



You do it. If you live, you can brag about it.

Already have, when the throttle cable on my Lotus Europa seized up
while doing a flat out acceleration run. Cable seized at the 3'rd to
4'th power shift and I simultaneously popped the clutch back in, hit
brakes, and killed the ignition.

Of course, I had picked an absolutely empty road at 3:00 in the
morning to do it, which left the matter of how to get home.

I reworked the manual choke into a limited throttle control and limped
the 20 miles back using that.

Then there was the time the clutch arm broke and I had to drive back
in traffic turning the motor off at stop lights and restarting it
while in gear, but that's another story.

Did I mention the Europa liked to drop parts?



Did I mention that the welds in the floor had cracked, and the
bottom of the body was scraping the highway? Or that the opening was
wide enough for my feet to go through? Or the car that was about 25
feet behind me, blowing his horn for me to get out of his way? The roof
was the only thing holding the car together by the time I got it
stopped.


Did I mention that it was an Opel Cadette?


That is a German car. Built by a subsidiary of General Motors.



The serial number plate under the hood said it was built in France.
Buick was the GM division that sold the Opel in the US. Replacement
parts were a real pain int he ass to get. The only reason I had the car
was that the engine had just blown in my van, and a 'friend' told me I
could have the Opel, if I could get it to start. It was sitting behind
the barn on his brother's farm, and had been there about three years. I
stuck the battery from the van in it, poured some gasoline in the
carburetor, and drove it out of the mud. In hindsight, I should have
just left it there.


Never heard of a Kadett (original spelling) built in France. Anyhow,
those unibody cars rust, especially when sitting in someone yard for
years. Then at some point, unlike frame bodies, there is really nothing
that maintains integrity. That's why they have regular mandatory
inspections in Europe where they would have caught it years before you
stepped into that car and prevented your scenario.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

Joerg wrote:

Never heard of a Kadett (original spelling) built in France. Anyhow,
those unibody cars rust, especially when sitting in someone yard for
years. Then at some point, unlike frame bodies, there is really nothing
that maintains integrity. That's why they have regular mandatory
inspections in Europe where they would have caught it years before you
stepped into that car and prevented your scenario.


Maybe the left hand drive export models were the only ones built
there? This happened in the mid '70s, and the car was about ten years
old.

The thing showed bo signs of rust, but it was poorly made. I had
just made a down payment, and paid all the fees to purchase my first
home, and needed ANYTHING that ran to get to work, 45 miles away. Not
only did the car say it was French built, but the various repair parts
were either French or Belgian. What caused the problem was some asshole
in a Roadrunner whipped over into my lane about five inches from my
front bumper at 55 MPH, and then hit his brakes. I managed to keep from
hitting him, but the vacuum created by the airflow ripped the screws
holding the hood latch, and safety latch to the body ripped out of the
sheet metal. Then, it was a quick string of events that destroyed the
car.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Never heard of a Kadett (original spelling) built in France. Anyhow,
those unibody cars rust, especially when sitting in someone yard for
years. Then at some point, unlike frame bodies, there is really nothing
that maintains integrity. That's why they have regular mandatory
inspections in Europe where they would have caught it years before you
stepped into that car and prevented your scenario.



Maybe the left hand drive export models were the only ones built
there? This happened in the mid '70s, and the car was about ten years
old.

The thing showed bo signs of rust, but it was poorly made. I had
just made a down payment, and paid all the fees to purchase my first
home, and needed ANYTHING that ran to get to work, 45 miles away. Not
only did the car say it was French built, but the various repair parts
were either French or Belgian. What caused the problem was some asshole
in a Roadrunner whipped over into my lane about five inches from my
front bumper at 55 MPH, and then hit his brakes. I managed to keep from
hitting him, but the vacuum created by the airflow ripped the screws
holding the hood latch, and safety latch to the body ripped out of the
sheet metal. Then, it was a quick string of events that destroyed the
car.


Vacuum?

Anyhow, Germany _is_ a lefthand drive country. Kadetts were built in
Bochum, Germany. I knew some guys there. AFAIR the other place in Europe
was somewhere in England where they were called Vauxhall instead of
Opel. Maybe there were more places but I've never heard of a French
Opel. The French didn't like German cars much and from a marketing
perspective it wouldn't have made much sense. In fact, I once repaired a
transmission on a Kadett. All the stuff in there that I touched was
German made and the spare for the broken gear came from Bochum.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

Joerg wrote:

Vacuum?


Reduced air pressure, suction, lift, or whatever you prefer to call
it, but it tried to lift the front end of the car, and ripped the hood
loose.


Anyhow, Germany _is_ a lefthand drive country. Kadetts were built in
Bochum, Germany. I knew some guys there. AFAIR the other place in Europe
was somewhere in England where they were called Vauxhall instead of
Opel. Maybe there were more places but I've never heard of a French
Opel. The French didn't like German cars much and from a marketing
perspective it wouldn't have made much sense. In fact, I once repaired a
transmission on a Kadett. All the stuff in there that I touched was
German made and the spare for the broken gear came from Bochum.


I have no idea, but that was what was marked on the vehicle and some
repair parts. The car body was scrapped 30 years ago, and someone
stole the engine and transmission, along with the front axle. I was
going to mate the 55 HP 4 cylinder engine with a 27 KW Agtronics 120/240
VAC PTO driven alternator head for a portable genset, and to use for
emergency power at my home. A couple bolts separated it from the
damaged body, and adding a simple trailer tongue would have made it into
a trailer.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida