Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!

Mr Green wrote:

Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!

There is no such thing as a stupid question.

Given the size of the cabinet, you could build it from 1x12 pine and would
need nothing more than a hand saw, hammer, nails (#8 finishing), nail set
and you could come up with a cabinet that would do what you wanted. "Plain
Jane" yes, but it would work and you would have done it yourself.

There are a number of beginners books at your local library. The New Yankee
Workshop, Woodworks (fairly advanced) American Woodshop, and another on
DIY, all can give you pointers.

The best advice I can give you is, begin with a good table saw. This might
be a two stage purchase. You can get a fairly good saw for not a whole
lot, but it will have a lousy fence. Take what you saved from the saw and
buy a Beismeyer fence.

Once you have your TS set up, then buy slowly, as you find a tool you often
find yourself needing but not having. Do not buy more quality than you
need. Realize, you can always upgrade if you need to and there is some
beginner who would love to have your beginning equipment.

Deb

"Mr Green" wrote in message
Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me?

We all had to start sometime. Not all of us knew where to start and some of
us still seem to flounder sometimes.

What do you want to accomplish? Fancy cabinetry or utilitarian box? Two a
year or two a day? Just bought a house and started a family budget or just
cashed out your blue chip stock portfolio?

Most shops start with a tablesaw. My first one was $200, my second (and
last) one was $800 a few years later. You can also spend $2000 on a saw. A
good blade is very important also ($50 to $120) Sander, router, drill,
drill press, shop vac are usually near the front end of purchasing. Planer,
jointers and specialty tools come later as needed.

What material do you plan to use? Buying rough cut hardwood requires
different tools than using plywood or pine boards from the lumber yard. If
you have a sketch or photo of what you want, post in on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking From that, people can better suggest what
you need to build it.

Al little more info might help...

Mr Green wrote:
Hello;
=20
Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

That sounds like industrial carpentry to me. But maybe you mean they=20
teach construction carpentry...

=20
I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Well if we know what type of cabinets you wanted to produce it would be=20
a lot easier -- and where you are (generally) might be relevant if it is =

large quantities -- as some woods will be cheaper/more expensive=20
depending on region. Do you want walnut, maple or cherry? Are you=20
thinking of exotic woods?

Is this fine cabinetry? Is it a cheap white pine box you envisage? What=20
quality of assembly would you like? In other words -- fancy joinery or=20
butt joints, nails and wood filler...??

Maybe stained cherry, polished with a rag dampened with acetone for the=20
finish. (Local joke eh...)

BTW a "budget per box" might help people understand what can be done.=20
Even if your budget is ridiculous some people will help you understand=20
why it is so and what can be done... -- even if it's nothing. LOL

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.
=20
TIA!
=20

We all have had a few in our time.

--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Your using wood as an enclosure to electronic devices? I find it hard to
believe that UL or CSA would approve of this. You might want to check out
alternative materials. If your talking about an outer cabinet to hold racks
of metal enclosures you might be ok. By using wood as a immediate
enclosure, if you sell to a consumer and there is a fire you could be sued
by not using approved materials or a certified product. The whole UL/CSA
approval process can be expensive and lengthy. Suggest you do some Goggle
searches on the subject.

Table saws though will cut lamininates and lexan which are more resistant to
fire. There may be other materials suitable. Just something to think of
before putting yourself at risk.

"Mr Green" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!

Mr Green says...

Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!

I don't think anyone needs classes for woodworking. They're nice, but
not necessary. Possibly the biggest advantage of classes is the
supervision and knowledge learned of safety. You can hurt yourself
real, real bad with just about any woodworking tool, even hand tools.
My worst gashes to date have come from chisels. You should watch New
Yankee Workshop, Router Workshop, and Woodwrights shop on PBS, and
Woodworks and DIY woodworking both on DIY network. DIY woodworking
focuses on beginner and intermediate projects using tools most of us
have.

Buy at least one book that covers all the basics and a book on
finishing. I also buy a book with each major tool purchase--a table saw
book, a router book etc. Use the advanced newsgroup search on Google.
Just about every woodworking question can be answered that way. I think
you need to start with a table saw. Plan on spending $500+ if you buy
new. A router comes in a close second. A router will do just about
anything with enough guides, fixtures and setup time. You will also
want to build a router table. Buy router bits as you need them. Sets
may seem like a good idea, but you don't know what you need until you
need it. You will need a preferably cordless hand drill, and a drill
press is nice too, but you can get away with a drill guide for most
things. A drill press is really nice for drum sander attachments. You
will need a good try square and at least one long straight edge. Get a
block plane and at least one larger size plane. Good planes are
expensive, cheap planes can be made to work if you spend time learning
how and put the work into it. Pick your poison, but in any case you
will need to learn how to tune them. If you buy surfaced lumber, then
you can get by without a planer or jointer for a while. If you will be
cutting any curves, then you need to think about a bandsaw. A hand held
jigsaw can do curves too, but not as well as a bandsaw. A bandsaw is
also best for resawing, but it is a big and fiddly machine. Buy the
Duginske book if you get a bandsaw. You may find you never have enough
clamps. It's an old woodworking joke, but not really funny because it
is true. Pipe clamps are the most economical long clamp, but they don't
have much reach. You will spend lots of money on clamps. You will need
a large backsaw, razor saw, flush cut saw (get a Japanese one), two or
three chisels, rasps, files, glues, nails, screws, finishes, solvents,
brushes and on and on. I have only a very basic budget shop and I
probably have about $4000 invested, maybe more. I really have lost
count. I have a wish list that totals at least another $3000 or so, and
probably $1000 of it is must have stuff.

You may have a point, although these types of cabinets are lined with fire
retardant materials. I do have a question. If wood is an acceptable
enclosure for electric devices, then why is it a must to use a box (metal,
bakelite, etc) for an electrical outlet or switch in a wall. Its not
acceptable to create a wooden outlet box for a wall.

I'm saying what is or isn't acceptable, just giving him something to think
about before getting into trouble. Didn't intent to imply that wood can't
be used at all. He can make wonderfully looking fascias surrounding the
equipment in wood.

I also agree with your suggestions of learning through the various ww shows,
books, magazines and asking questions.

Derrick.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 17:53:04 -0500, "Derrick"
wrote:

Your using wood as an enclosure to electronic devices?

Seen any of the commercially available guitar and bass amps, or high
end stereo gear?

Barry

Hax Planks wrote:

supervision and knowledge learned of safety. You can hurt yourself
real, real bad with just about any woodworking tool, even hand tools.
My worst gashes to date have come from chisels. You should watch New

Chisels and hand saws. Oddly enough.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

"Derrick" wrote in message
...
You may have a point, although these types of cabinets are lined with fire
retardant materials.

I have 4 guitar amps and about 90 pieces of vintage and current stereo
equipment around here and none of them are lined with fire retardent
material.

I do have a question. If wood is an acceptable
enclosure for electric devices, then why is it a must to use a box (metal,
bakelite, etc) for an electrical outlet or switch in a wall. Its not
acceptable to create a wooden outlet box for a wall.

The building code here dictates that interior electrical boxes shall be
plastic and exterior electrical boxes shall be metal, steel.
Even if wood was allowed it would be too expensive to create and too flimsy
to hold up.

I'm saying what is or isn't acceptable, just giving him something to think
about before getting into trouble. Didn't intent to imply that wood can't
be used at all. He can make wonderfully looking fascias surrounding the
equipment in wood.

Yep. My 70's vintage Pioneer SX-1250 receiver is a masterpiece, a work of
art. Walnut, brushed aluminum, fluted knobs, 160 REAL watts per.

I also agree with your suggestions of learning through the various ww
shows,
books, magazines and asking questions.

Another option for him is to purchase a piece of reasonably priced vintage
stereo equipment on ebay that has a walnut case and pull the case off and
examine how it was constructed then try to mimic it for his application.


Derrick.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 17:53:04 -0500, "Derrick"
wrote:

Your using wood as an enclosure to electronic devices?

Seen any of the commercially available guitar and bass amps, or high
end stereo gear?

Barry

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 17:53:04 -0500, "Derrick"
wrote:

Your using wood as an enclosure to electronic devices? I find it hard to
believe that UL or CSA would approve of this. You might want to check out
alternative materials. If your talking about an outer cabinet to hold racks
of metal enclosures you might be ok. By using wood as a immediate
enclosure, if you sell to a consumer and there is a fire you could be sued
by not using approved materials or a certified product. The whole UL/CSA
approval process can be expensive and lengthy. Suggest you do some Goggle
searches on the subject.

Table saws though will cut lamininates and lexan which are more resistant to
fire. There may be other materials suitable. Just something to think of
before putting yourself at risk.

"Mr Green" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!




UL/CSA is interested in all of that, but primarily the circuit. There
are rules regarding the specs for any given category of device.
Unless one of you here is a UL or CSA investigator the only way to
know for certain is to ask them.

That said, plenty of electronic devices are housed in wood enclosures.
Just follow whatever rules UL has for that. Generally speaking CSA
will also likely use the same rules, but again, ask them, not us.

The NEC is a different animal than UL.

On 26 Mar 2005 13:12:13 -0800, "Mr Green"
wrote:

Hello;

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question, but, as a beginner in cabinet
making, where would I start? I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes. I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture. The biggest cabinet would
probably be 24" x 12" x 15"

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own. Are
there any good books to be recommended to me? Also, if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

Again, sorry if this seems like a stupid question.

TIA!


You've had several excellent bits of advise.

FWIW, I began by subscribing to Woodsmith and building several of
their projects. Other magazines, like Fine Woodworking (FWW), Wood
and Popular Woodworking were also used. The quality of content in
most magazines has varied considerably over the past 20 years EXCEPT
for Woodsmith and FWW.

Woodsmith is consistently good for beginner type things with complete
step by step instructions for what they build. Back issues/articles
are available. The step by step make this a good choice if you're
going to learn on your own.

FWW is aimed at a higher level of craftsmanship. In the beginning the
things in there were the stuff of dreams for me. Today I could build
most though not all of what appears in the pages of their magazine.
FWW also has *some* back issues available and has a CD for sale that
is said to have most of the articles from the beginning on it.

If you want a school environment, Places like Woodcraft offer classes,
there's also schools like American Sycamore (and others) that teach
classes on one aspect or another of WW.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Most shops start with a tablesaw. My first one was $200, my second
(and
last) one was $800 a few years later. You can also spend $2000 on a
saw. A
good blade is very important also ($50 to $120) Sander, router,
drill,
drill press, shop vac are usually near the front end of purchasing.
Planer,
jointers and specialty tools come later as needed.

Actually, Norm recommends a jointer as one of the first "large" power
tools. He said so the other day. Gettinf those edges straight and
true is a MUST.

FoggyTown

"Mr Green" wrote in message oups.com...

Sorry for the apparantly dumb question,

I can't even begin to imagine why you'd think this was a dumb
question.

but, as a beginner in cabinet making, where would I start?

This isn't _quite_ what I'd think of as "cabinet making", although I
guess you are making cabinets.

I have explored the local trade schools
and community colleges, but they only offer industrial carpentry
classes.

Industrial carpentry is OK. But look for a course that teaches
furniture making (portable boxes made in workshop) rather than house
building (making fixed buildings by working on-site). You can learn
by many methods, but a workshop course will give you hands-on
experience with big expensive machines that you won't get otherwise.

I am primarily looking to build wooden enclosures for
electronic devices which I manufacture.

Guitar amps etc ?

By the sound of things, you're going to be making fairly simple
plywood boxes, covered in a separate covering. Now this is a fine
thing to be doing (you're selling electronics here, not boxes) and
it's also pretty simple woodworking.

Somewhere out there are a couple of books (can't remember the names,
but they're around) called "How to build cabinets for stage gear" and
"How to build loudspeaker enclosures". You need to read these,
because fancy-ass cabinetry by James Krenov won't last 5 minutes with
roadies humping it. And speaker design is somewhere between rocket
science and voodoo chicken sacrificing.

Google this newsgroup for book list recommendations. I know many of us
have suggested lists out on the web. I'd suggest

"Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Vols 1 & 2"
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1561580686/codesmiths-20

"The Accurate Table Saw", Ian Kirby
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0964399954/codesmiths-20
This is going to be your main working tool - learn how to drive it.

You can probably skip Flexner's book on finishing, unless you're
planning some.
"Understanding Wood Finishing"
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0762101911/codesmiths-20

You might find a few of the kitchen cabinet books, like Jim Tolpin's
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561580589/codesmiths-20
to be useful.

I guess there would be nothing the matter with learning on my own.

That's probably how most of us did it. Some stuff needs information to
be given to you though, as it's expensive (or even painful) to work it
out for yourself.

if you were
instructing someone how to get into this, what prerequsite power tools
would you recommend in order of their importance?

I'm assuming you're making guitar amps (if not, tell us). These are
boxes of 1/2" plywood, butted and reinforced in the corners. then
they're covered with assorted fabrics and leathercloths and have edge
reinforcements screwed on. They also have obscure cutouts for metal
sub-panels.

Your material is good quality 1/2" plywood. Chipboard (particle
board) is garbage, MDF is heavy and doesn't have the mechanical
stiffness (can be useful for speakers and valve amps though). Birch
ply is the best. Rainforest ply is often of poor quality, unless you
choose carefully, and tropical ply is unsustainable.

You won't believe how much you spend on timber! Check your suppliers
out carefully - there's a big difference.


Hand tools

Workbench (doesn't need to be big, must be solid)
Assembly bench (can be low and flimsy, but needs to be separate from
the workbench - stacked pallets at a pinch)
Workmate (optional - for holding the big things the workbench can't)

Pencils (hard, soft, average, 0.7mm mechanical) Get a good journal /
big bound notebook too (NOT a ringbinder) and write down or draw
_everything_ so it doesn't get lost afterwards. Make regular notes on
how big you made things, or on recipe proportions, so you can
reproduce them later.
12" steel rule, good tape measure (Stanley Leverlock with the base
lock lever)
Carpenter's 10" square, Big (3' - 4' leg) framing square
Big steel compasses with screw adjust (also small ones, dividers etc.)
Small block plane (Lee Valley low angle)
Rolls of sandpaper in 60,80,120,180,240 grit and a few hand blocks
Knife (rough utility)
Knife (razor sharp and kept for marking out)
Saws; cheap "Borg" tenon saw, panel saw, 12" hacksaw, coping saw
Clamps; malleable iron G clamps (to fit over edge of workbench + 2")
and lots of cheap long aluminium sash clamps.
Hand-held countersink bit, screwdrivers, sharp awl, files
(lots more too)

PVA-based glue. Avoid polyurethanes. Contact glue too for coverings,
and epoxy is always handy (get a West System trial pack and some
microballoon filler)


Power tools

Table saw
Hand-held circular saw
Jigsaw
Hand drill
Biscuit jointer
Router
Bench drill

Don't get hung up on these. Woodworking is about skill, not shininess
of the tools.

The table saw slices up your plywood. You can spend a little or a lot
- largely depending on how much space you have, how much budget, and
how fast you want to work. The Ryobi 3000 is "entry level" here, a
"classic" Unisaw is great for hardwood furniture making, but for an
industrial shop working plywood you want (not need) something like
this
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23279&recno=3
This has a sliding table, it's big enough to eat a whole 8'x4' sheet,
and it has a scoring saw (second tiny blade up front, that gives a
cleaner cut on the underside). Whatever you have, have suitable
blades to hand, including a fine plywood blade.

You _need_ a good tablesaw. You _need_ accurate square cuts in the
sizes you're working at. Bigger and more expensive is better, but
there are ways to work with just that cheap Ryobi.


Hand-held circular saw. So your table saw is small and it won't take a
whole sheet - then use this first. Place the sheet on a few wooden
trestles, then rip it down in size with this, just to make it
manageable. You'll want a cheap saw (£50 not £100) from a good maker,
because it's lighter weight and you're only cutting plywood. Fit a
proper plywood blade to it first. A long straight edge guide helps
too.


Jigsaw. Get a really good one, such as the Bosch GST2000. This
vibrates less, so you get a usably good cut with less clean-up. It's
not a desperately useful tool (go circular if you can), but it will
work inside a hole that the others can't.


Biscuit jointer. The quick way to make simple joints in plywood.
Fairly cheap too.


Router. Not that much use (for these simple boxes, you should get most
done with the saw). Very cheap though and a cheap 1/4" router with a
bearing-guided chamfer bit is often useful. Later on, tool up with a
real 1/2" router and maybe a table - you might start making repeat
patterns with a template. No substitute for a biscuit jointer.


Bench drill - mainly for metalworking, so get one that offers slower
speeds too. You're going to be doing some panel making, and this is
much nicer with a bench drill than a hand-held.

"foggytown" wrote in message

Actually, Norm recommends a jointer as one of the first "large" power
tools. He said so the other day. Gettinf those edges straight and
true is a MUST.

FoggyTown


I'm not as experienced as Norm or many of the guys here, but I still don't
have a jointer. My edges line up though. Probably won't get one for
another year as I have other priorities. I'm able to buy wood with a decent
edge to start with or use a sled to cut in on the TS the first time.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 13:56:51 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

On 27 Mar 2005 04:37:56 -0800, "foggytown" wrote:



Actually, Norm recommends a jointer as one of the first "large" power
tools. He said so the other day. Gettinf those edges straight and
true is a MUST.

What if the OP is planning use plywood, MDF, or MDO for his cabinets?

Barry

Router, straight edge of some sort, and a ball bearing guided router
bit.

Derrick wrote:

You may have a point, although these types of cabinets are lined with fire
retardant materials. I do have a question. If wood is an acceptable
enclosure for electric devices, then why is it a must to use a box (metal,
bakelite, etc) for an electrical outlet or switch in a wall. Its not
acceptable to create a wooden outlet box for a wall.

The circuit in a wall is governed by a building code that allows certain
specified rated devices to be used. Building codes do not apply to devices
that are not "permanently" installed.

I have seen no "fire retardant materials" on the inside of any wooden-cased
electronic devices. It is commonplace to use wooden cases for speakers for
example, and any "fire retardant materials" would likely negate the
acoustic effect for which the wood is used in the first place.

I'm saying what is or isn't acceptable, just giving him something to think
about before getting into trouble. Didn't intent to imply that wood can't
be used at all. He can make wonderfully looking fascias surrounding the
equipment in wood.

Or the whole case. In case you haven't checked, most common plastics are
not particularly fire resistant and produce some really _obnoxious_ vapors.
Given a choice between styrene, which burns merrily, or ipe, which burns
about as well as concrete, I'd prefer to take my chances with ipe.

Don't assume that all wood is easily flammable.

I also agree with your suggestions of learning through the various ww
shows, books, magazines and asking questions.

Derrick.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 17:53:04 -0500, "Derrick"
wrote:

Your using wood as an enclosure to electronic devices?

Seen any of the commercially available guitar and bass amps, or high
end stereo gear?

Barry

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"foggytown" wrote in message

Actually, Norm recommends a jointer as one of the first "large" power
tools. He said so the other day. Gettinf those edges straight and
true is a MUST.

FoggyTown

There are other ways to get those edges straight. Hand plane is least
expensive but requires some practice. Router table or run a hand held
between the 2 edges using a straight edge.

Ken

On 2005-03-28, Ken Johnsen wrote:

"foggytown" wrote in message

Actually, Norm recommends a jointer as one of the first "large" power
tools. He said so the other day. Gettinf those edges straight and
true is a MUST.

FoggyTown

There are other ways to get those edges straight. Hand plane is least
expensive but requires some practice. Router table or run a hand held
between the 2 edges using a straight edge.

Shaper with power feed and an edge jointing cutter. I'm going to try this
today with some scrap wood.

--
I can find no modern furniture that is as well designed and emotionally
satisfying as that made by the Arts and Crafts movement in the early years
of the last century.

A hand plane wouldn't be my first choice for plywood.

I'd think about sawing them straight in the first place. For stage gear
or plywood boxes that are getting biscuited and veneered / covered
afterwards, then a reasonable table saw ought to give you an acceptable
edge for glue-up, straight from the saw. You'd be better using a table
saw than a handheld saw and a separate jointing step.