I want to get a laser cutting guide for my Dewalt 12" sliding compound miter
saw - I've seen a couple different brands on the net, one from Rockler's
(Avenger) for $57.99 and another from SevenCorners.com (bladepoint) for
$59.88. They both say easy to install. Is there any great difference in
brands, quality? Are there any safety issues involved?

I saw my first laser guide in person a couple weeks ago, a friend of mine
had one on a jobsite on a Hitachi miter saw (it came built into the saw) and
I thought it was the coolest thing I've ever seen. I don't have any depth
perception and I'm always doing the squat,
lower-the-blade-and-look-where-it's-going-to-cut thing, and this seems like
a tremedous time (and knee) saver. Thanks in advance for any and all input.

Tony

T asks:

I want to get a laser cutting guide for my Dewalt 12" sliding compound miter
saw - I've seen a couple different brands on the net, one from Rockler's
(Avenger) for $57.99 and another from SevenCorners.com (bladepoint) for
$59.88. They both say easy to install. Is there any great difference in
brands, quality? Are there any safety issues involved?

I saw my first laser guide in person a couple weeks ago, a friend of mine
had one on a jobsite on a Hitachi miter saw (it came built into the saw) and
I thought it was the coolest thing I've ever seen. I don't have any depth
perception and I'm always doing the squat,
lower-the-blade-and-look-where-it's-going-to-cut thing, and this seems like
a tremedous time (and knee) saver. Thanks in advance for any and all input.

They are, but...

In my opinion, the arbor mounted laser units are not very good. They work on
only one side of the blade, for a start, and I always seem to be making cuts on
both sides of the blade. For another, you've got to have the saw running and
partially down to make a check on where the cut will be, if for no other reason
than the fact that the bottom guard blocks the beam. Some saws have slotted
guards, but still don't project a beam until the saw is on (aftermarket models
may differ. I haven't tried any of those).

Accuracy is iffy in the ones I've seen.

For good laser marking on compound miter saws, the laser needs to be a designed
in part of the saw. So far, the Porter-Cable and Delta models with dual line
lasers are about it. And the 12" non-sliders are IT there, at something like
$350, IIRC. They are good packages otherwise, too. The PC and Delta both have
switchable lasers. You turn them on with a rocker switch on top of the handle,
and they project their line down onto the base. Very, very good for line up for
those of us without perfect vision or perfect knees.

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken

Never align your laser again...A simple laser mouted on the blade arbor...I
saw this at a show this fall.....Check this review
out...http://www.thisoldworkshop.com/bladepoint-review.htm
Happy cutting.

"T" wrote in message
news:r9ard.161063$bk1.86284@fed1read05...
I want to get a laser cutting guide for my Dewalt 12" sliding compound
miter
saw - I've seen a couple different brands on the net, one from Rockler's
(Avenger) for $57.99 and another from SevenCorners.com (bladepoint) for
$59.88. They both say easy to install. Is there any great difference in
brands, quality? Are there any safety issues involved?

I saw my first laser guide in person a couple weeks ago, a friend of mine
had one on a jobsite on a Hitachi miter saw (it came built into the saw)
and
I thought it was the coolest thing I've ever seen. I don't have any depth
perception and I'm always doing the squat,
lower-the-blade-and-look-where-it's-going-to-cut thing, and this seems
like
a tremedous time (and knee) saver. Thanks in advance for any and all
input.

Tony

I have looked at a few different ones, also used the Hitachi .
The laser that mounts on the blade did not seem to be very good for me as it
only lights up when the blade is spinning. I got the Laserkerf and installed
it on my 12" sliding DeWalt, it was easy to install and setup was easy too,
Although I have a type 1 saw so I had to buy an extra bracket for it. They
have two options a battery one and an AC powered one also two sizes of
laser,a thin kerf and a full kerf, so the laser line is exactly where your
blade will cut, either side.
setup and installation was a breeze (sticky pads) the whole thing cost me
about $95 inc tax and shipping. I do trim and stairs for a living and the
saw gets moved everyday and the laser seems to be good all the time.
Although I do have to spent a minute or so setting it every time I set the
saw up. In a workshop you probably wont have to do that but once.
http://www.laserkerf.com/
Hope this helps




"T" wrote in message
news:r9ard.161063$bk1.86284@fed1read05...
I want to get a laser cutting guide for my Dewalt 12" sliding compound
miter
saw - I've seen a couple different brands on the net, one from Rockler's
(Avenger) for $57.99 and another from SevenCorners.com (bladepoint) for
$59.88. They both say easy to install. Is there any great difference in
brands, quality? Are there any safety issues involved?

I saw my first laser guide in person a couple weeks ago, a friend of mine
had one on a jobsite on a Hitachi miter saw (it came built into the saw)
and
I thought it was the coolest thing I've ever seen. I don't have any depth
perception and I'm always doing the squat,
lower-the-blade-and-look-where-it's-going-to-cut thing, and this seems
like
a tremedous time (and knee) saver. Thanks in advance for any and all
input.

Tony

On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 10:37:18 -0500, "steve"
wrote:

I have looked at a few different ones, also used the Hitachi .
The laser that mounts on the blade did not seem to be very good for me as it
only lights up when the blade is spinning. I got the Laserkerf and installed
it on my 12" sliding DeWalt, it was easy to install and setup was easy too,
Although I have a type 1 saw so I had to buy an extra bracket for it. They
have two options a battery one and an AC powered one also two sizes of
laser,a thin kerf and a full kerf, so the laser line is exactly where your
blade will cut, either side.
setup and installation was a breeze (sticky pads) the whole thing cost me
about $95 inc tax and shipping. I do trim and stairs for a living and the
saw gets moved everyday and the laser seems to be good all the time.
Although I do have to spent a minute or so setting it every time I set the
saw up. In a workshop you probably wont have to do that but once.
http://www.laserkerf.com/
Hope this helps

Steve... I'm just being nosey, since you're in the trades...
Would you have spent the $95 for the laser if you were just a hobby
woodworker?

I think I would, but thats just me, I like gadgets


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 10:37:18 -0500, "steve"
wrote:

I have looked at a few different ones, also used the Hitachi .
The laser that mounts on the blade did not seem to be very good for me as
it
only lights up when the blade is spinning. I got the Laserkerf and
installed
it on my 12" sliding DeWalt, it was easy to install and setup was easy
too,
Although I have a type 1 saw so I had to buy an extra bracket for it. They
have two options a battery one and an AC powered one also two sizes of
laser,a thin kerf and a full kerf, so the laser line is exactly where your
blade will cut, either side.
setup and installation was a breeze (sticky pads) the whole thing cost me
about $95 inc tax and shipping. I do trim and stairs for a living and the
saw gets moved everyday and the laser seems to be good all the time.
Although I do have to spent a minute or so setting it every time I set the
saw up. In a workshop you probably wont have to do that but once.
http://www.laserkerf.com/
Hope this helps

Steve... I'm just being nosey, since you're in the trades...
Would you have spent the $95 for the laser if you were just a hobby
woodworker?

On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 08:02:15 -0500, "steve"
wrote:
me, too... but figuring that my CMS was less than $200 it would be a
major decision to change/improve the laser for $100...
then again, I might use the laser more..

I think I would, but thats just me, I like gadgets


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 10:37:18 -0500, "steve"
wrote:

I have looked at a few different ones, also used the Hitachi .
The laser that mounts on the blade did not seem to be very good for me as
it
only lights up when the blade is spinning. I got the Laserkerf and
installed
it on my 12" sliding DeWalt, it was easy to install and setup was easy
too,
Although I have a type 1 saw so I had to buy an extra bracket for it. They
have two options a battery one and an AC powered one also two sizes of
laser,a thin kerf and a full kerf, so the laser line is exactly where your
blade will cut, either side.
setup and installation was a breeze (sticky pads) the whole thing cost me
about $95 inc tax and shipping. I do trim and stairs for a living and the
saw gets moved everyday and the laser seems to be good all the time.
Although I do have to spent a minute or so setting it every time I set the
saw up. In a workshop you probably wont have to do that but once.
http://www.laserkerf.com/
Hope this helps

Steve... I'm just being nosey, since you're in the trades...
Would you have spent the $95 for the laser if you were just a hobby
woodworker?

The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

The one I got is a disc about 3" in diameter and about 3/8" in
thickness. Don't be fooled by a laser pen that is mounted to the blade
housing and as the CMS comes closer to cutting the wood, the pen moves
upward and draws a line across the cutting area on the wood. This kind
of guide can get out of adjustment real easy.

--
Woody


Check out my Web Page at:

http://community-1.webtv.net/Woodwor...workerJoesInfo

Where you will find:

******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03

* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.1-14-03
* * * What is a Real Woodworker? 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions. 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Laws. 4-6-03
* * * What is the true meaning of life? 1-14-03
* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03

Woody Woodpecker responds:


The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

Blade shaft? Oh, the arbor. Well, of bad choices, that's not the worst. But far
better is the dual laser that lights up when you rock a switch on top of the
saw handle.

I don't think I've ever seen a laser pen used on a CMS or an SCMS.

Charlie Self
"Ambition is a poor excuse for not having sense enough to be lazy."
Edgar Bergen, (Charlie McCarthy)

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
...
Woody Woodpecker responds:


The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

Blade shaft? Oh, the arbor. Well, of bad choices, that's not the worst.
But far
better is the dual laser that lights up when you rock a switch on top of
the
saw handle.

I don't think I've ever seen a laser pen used on a CMS or an SCMS.

Charlie Self
"Ambition is a poor excuse for not having sense enough to be lazy."
Edgar Bergen, (Charlie McCarthy)

woudn't a laser pen just put a 'dot' on the work rather than a line, or is
than just me?

On 03 Dec 2004 18:25:22 GMT, otforme (Charlie Self)
wrote:

Woody Woodpecker responds:


The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

Blade shaft? Oh, the arbor. Well, of bad choices, that's not the worst. But far
better is the dual laser that lights up when you rock a switch on top of the
saw handle.

I don't think I've ever seen a laser pen used on a CMS or an SCMS.

Charlie Self
"Ambition is a poor excuse for not having sense enough to be lazy."
Edgar Bergen, (Charlie McCarthy)

I think the OP meant one like one the Craftsman CMS, where the laser
disk replaces the outer blade washer..
downside of this one is that it isn't adjustable, so always 1/8 to the
left of cut..

"Joe "Woody" Woodpecker" wrote in message
...
The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

The problme is, the blade is turning about 4000 rpm in a second or two.
While holding the trigger to keep the blade running to keep the light on,
you have to line up the cut with your other hand. I really don't care what
you do, but when my blade is spinning, my other hand is firmly in place, far
from the carbide tips. Reminds me of playing Russian roulette.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
m...

"Joe "Woody" Woodpecker" wrote in message
...
The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.

The problme is, the blade is turning about 4000 rpm in a second or two.
While holding the trigger to keep the blade running to keep the light on,
you have to line up the cut with your other hand. I really don't care
what
you do, but when my blade is spinning, my other hand is firmly in place,
far
from the carbide tips. Reminds me of playing Russian roulette.



Yeahbut... unless you're working with some pretty small stock you can
usually grab the wood well away from the blade contact area. Just like you
do to hold that same piece of stock as you're cutting it. In fact, it's
really not any different than what you do to actually make the cut.
--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Yeahbut... unless you're working with some pretty small stock you can
usually grab the wood well away from the blade contact area. Just like
you
do to hold that same piece of stock as you're cutting it. In fact, it's
really not any different than what you do to actually make the cut.
--

-Mike-


You always do the line-up with the blade spinning? You have more balls
than me.

I bring the blade down to the cut line and make any adjustments needed. I
then hold the wood firmly, pull the trigger and make the cut. Once the blade
spins, I do not move my hand. Just my narrow minded opinion, but lining up
a 16' 2 x 4 or an 18" piece of quarter round molding under a 12" blade at
4000 rpm is just plain nuts. Your eye is on the light, not on the blade and
your hand is moving. Sorry, but I just don't need that kind of adrenaline
rush. You're welcome to do as you please.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
m...

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Yeahbut... unless you're working with some pretty small stock you can
usually grab the wood well away from the blade contact area. Just like
you
do to hold that same piece of stock as you're cutting it. In fact, it's
really not any different than what you do to actually make the cut.
--

-Mike-


You always do the line-up with the blade spinning? You have more balls
than me.

I bring the blade down to the cut line and make any adjustments needed. I
then hold the wood firmly, pull the trigger and make the cut. Once the
blade
spins, I do not move my hand. Just my narrow minded opinion, but lining
up
a 16' 2 x 4 or an 18" piece of quarter round molding under a 12" blade at
4000 rpm is just plain nuts. Your eye is on the light, not on the blade
and
your hand is moving. Sorry, but I just don't need that kind of adrenaline
rush. You're welcome to do as you please.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
m...

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Yeahbut... unless you're working with some pretty small stock you can
usually grab the wood well away from the blade contact area. Just like
you
do to hold that same piece of stock as you're cutting it. In fact, it's
really not any different than what you do to actually make the cut.
--

-Mike-


You always do the line-up with the blade spinning? You have more balls
than me.

I bring the blade down to the cut line and make any adjustments needed. I
then hold the wood firmly, pull the trigger and make the cut. Once the
blade
spins, I do not move my hand. Just my narrow minded opinion, but lining
up
a 16' 2 x 4 or an 18" piece of quarter round molding under a 12" blade at
4000 rpm is just plain nuts. Your eye is on the light, not on the blade
and
your hand is moving. Sorry, but I just don't need that kind of adrenaline
rush. You're welcome to do as you please.



I think you're taking my comment too far Edwin. I too line my cut line up
with a stopped blade before I pull the trigger, but I also watch that line
as I bringing the blade down into the wood. It's not uncommon for the
starting torque of the motor to cause slight shifts and I do make sure I'm
still lined up. I don't worry about 4000 rpms or any of the other alarmist
things because I don't put my hand anywhere near that blade when cutting.
For me to have to make a very slight nudge while the motor is running does
not put my hand near the blade. I might be one of the luck few, but I have
the presence of mind to know that if my hand is 12 inches from the blade and
I'm making a 1/16 inch adjustment, I'm not putting myself in peril. I've
also developed the skill to distinguish big movements from small movements.
I know - that was wise guy stuff, but honestly, we all make, or are prepared
to make very minor adjustments as the blade approaches the stock. The
safety aspect comes in when your hand is holding the stock too close to the
blade in the first place, and I clearly disclaimed that in my original post.

Rant mode:

I have to say, one aspect of this newsgroup is that in any given thread
there will always be some comments that completely ignore the discussion at
hand and make no effort to understand the context of a comment. Rather,
these posts seem ripe with things like "4000 rpm spinning blade" (not even
singling out your reply here Edwin - this is a pretty common type of phrase
here), "Darwinian", etc. that seem more purposed for the author to take off
on a whim of their own than to speak to the original thought. In all of the
time I've spent here on and off over the years, this has been consistent.
In all of the time I've spent here on and off over the years, I've never
heard anybody suggest that they don't care about safety and that brave and
daring is the order of the day when working with power tools. Yet, the
sensational and irrelevant seem to prevail, no matter. Oh well. It's not
the end of the world and I guess it's just the way it is. Just felt like
getting it off my chest.


--

-Mike-

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Joe "Woody" Woodpecker" wrote in message
...

The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.


The problme is, the blade is turning about 4000 rpm in a second or two.
While holding the trigger to keep the blade running to keep the light on,
you have to line up the cut with your other hand. I really don't care what
you do, but when my blade is spinning, my other hand is firmly in place, far
from the carbide tips. Reminds me of playing Russian roulette.

Thats one of the reasons I opted for the dual laser on the CMS I
recently purchased. It can be turned on or off w/o having to run the
saw. I don't want to be moving stuff after I turn it on. And it
doesn't use watch batteries!
John

Yep, I do NOT care for the lasers that replace the arbor nut/flange
for that very reason

Better choice is the lasers that mount on the saw frame, and the come
with AC powered versions as well. Very useful for folks who already
own a tool that did NOT come with lasers.

John

On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 10:26:25 -0700, John DeBoo
wrote:

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Joe "Woody" Woodpecker" wrote in message
...

The laser guide I would suggest is one that bolts onto the blade shaft
and when the blade spins faster than 600 RPMs the laser lights up and
draws a line exactly where the blade will cut. This is especially
helpful when cutting compound miters.


The problme is, the blade is turning about 4000 rpm in a second or two.
While holding the trigger to keep the blade running to keep the light on,
you have to line up the cut with your other hand. I really don't care what
you do, but when my blade is spinning, my other hand is firmly in place, far
from the carbide tips. Reminds me of playing Russian roulette.

Thats one of the reasons I opted for the dual laser on the CMS I
recently purchased. It can be turned on or off w/o having to run the
saw. I don't want to be moving stuff after I turn it on. And it
doesn't use watch batteries!
John

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

I think you're taking my comment too far Edwin. I too line my cut line up
with a stopped blade before I pull the trigger,

My orignital commets were to to Woody's comments about the arbor type being
the best type of laser. I don't agree. If I was the saw manufacturere, it
would not be on my tools. Put a swithc to light it witht he blade stopped
and we have a good product.

I don't worry about 4000 rpms or any of the other alarmist
things because I don't put my hand anywhere near that blade when cutting.

Nor do I, but we have different ways of achieving that. Others may not
posess your skills or anyone can make an error. Ever push the wrong button
on the radio or heater controls on your car? No big deal, but if you were
flying an F14 the outcome may be different.



I know - that was wise guy stuff, but honestly, we all make, or are
prepared
to make very minor adjustments as the blade approaches the stock.

Count me out. Once the blade starts, I don't move anything. I intend to
keep it that way. If the wood moves, I take my hand off the trigger and wait
for the blade to stop.



Rant mode:

I have to say, one aspect of this newsgroup is that in any given thread
there will always be some comments that completely ignore the discussion
at
hand and make no effort to understand the context of a comment. Rather,
these posts seem ripe with things like "4000 rpm spinning blade" (not even
singling out your reply here Edwin - this is a pretty common type of
phrase
here), "Darwinian", etc. that seem more purposed for the author to take
off
on a whim of their own than to speak to the original thought.

Not taken personally at all. It was as noted above, my opinion on a type of
aiming device on a saw blade. Do as you see fit.


In all of the
time I've spent here on and off over the years, this has been consistent.
In all of the time I've spent here on and off over the years, I've never
heard anybody suggest that they don't care about safety and that brave and
daring is the order of the day when working with power tools.

Yes, but you've probably seen some really stupid ideas brought up too. Even
people that do care about safey do stupid things just because they don't
know any better.

Just felt like
getting it off my chest.

Ah, the fun of newsgroups. Gives us all a soapbox.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...


Nor do I, but we have different ways of achieving that. Others may not
posess your skills or anyone can make an error. Ever push the wrong button
on the radio or heater controls on your car? No big deal, but if you were
flying an F14 the outcome may be different.


F14's and radios be damned - I've been known to do it with the send key on
occasion...
--

-Mike-

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

I think you're taking my comment too far Edwin. I too line my cut line
up with a stopped blade before I pull the trigger,

My orignital commets were to to Woody's comments about the arbor type
being
the best type of laser. I don't agree. If I was the saw manufacturere, it
would not be on my tools. Put a swithc to light it witht he blade stopped
and we have a good product.

I don't worry about 4000 rpms or any of the other alarmist
things because I don't put my hand anywhere near that blade when cutting.

Nor do I, but we have different ways of achieving that. Others may not
posess your skills or anyone can make an error. Ever push the wrong button
on the radio or heater controls on your car? No big deal, but if you were
flying an F14 the outcome may be different.

FWIW, some of the switches have red guards on them that have to be flipped
free before the switch will move. There is a reason for that. Flipping
those switches make Very Bad Things happen to _somebody_. Hopefully it's
the Forces of Darkness and not your wingman.

I know - that was wise guy stuff, but honestly, we all make, or are
prepared
to make very minor adjustments as the blade approaches the stock.

Count me out. Once the blade starts, I don't move anything. I intend to
keep it that way. If the wood moves, I take my hand off the trigger and
wait for the blade to stop.



Rant mode:

I have to say, one aspect of this newsgroup is that in any given thread
there will always be some comments that completely ignore the discussion
at
hand and make no effort to understand the context of a comment. Rather,
these posts seem ripe with things like "4000 rpm spinning blade" (not
even singling out your reply here Edwin - this is a pretty common type of
phrase
here), "Darwinian", etc. that seem more purposed for the author to take
off
on a whim of their own than to speak to the original thought.

Not taken personally at all. It was as noted above, my opinion on a type
of
aiming device on a saw blade. Do as you see fit.


In all of the
time I've spent here on and off over the years, this has been consistent.
In all of the time I've spent here on and off over the years, I've never
heard anybody suggest that they don't care about safety and that brave
and daring is the order of the day when working with power tools.

Yes, but you've probably seen some really stupid ideas brought up too.
Even people that do care about safey do stupid things just because they
don't know any better.

Just felt like
getting it off my chest.

Ah, the fun of newsgroups. Gives us all a soapbox.

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)