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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Induction range ???
Today at a thrift store I saw a Kenmore Induction Range for sale for $30.00
and I noticed that the info tag indicated it was 5.6 KW. I wonder if there are any good useable parts for any ham radio or other uses? tnx hank wd5jfr |
#2
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Induction range ???
My Dad bought one of those years ago out of curiosity. Having been a machinist
for all his life, he explained to me that those things use the same method to heat the pan as some heat treating processes in manufacturing. The problem is that you must use ferrous cookware, glass won't work at all, stainless exhibits some pretty wierd behaviour and aluminum is about as effective as the glass cookware. It stands on it's side proudly on the floor of one of his closets. His is a GE and we did fire it up one time just to see it work. I too wonder about other uses for the components inside. I guess anytime you need to heat iron or a ferrous alloy you could come up with something. This one has numerous safety systems, such as that it detects the presence of a pan uthat is big enough/u to cover the burner before it will turn on. Removal of the pan immediately shuts the burner down. Also the surface is made out of a special material that must be not only an effective thermal insulator, but must also have an extremely low thermal mass. I say this because a GE rep told me that a demo in the showroom included the salesman bringing a pot of water to a boil and removing it and putting his hand right where the pot had been. Apparently there is not even enough stored heat conducted from the pot to burn you, even a second later or less. We will not throw it out, it is a pretty cool piece of engineering, and now that Pops is retired, he might find time to take the thing apart. Being a normal nut, I think weapons until I realize it runs on a 50 amp 220 line. The thirty five men it would take to carry the batteries could probably do more damage on their own. But I digress. Go ahead and buy it if you are a ucompetent/u tinkerer and electrician or something, but I warn you, these things use VERY DANGEROUS voltages and currents. We intend to take this one apart one day, but believe me utmost caution will be observed. There will be no firing up of those coils without some very serious thought given to safety. Nobody wants to die. At the moment, I have no idea of your skill level, I don't know you so don't take this wrong. If you are not proficient in working with LETHAL VOLTAGES do not even mess with it. By my estimation these things are about 5 times more dangerous than a microwave oven. Messing around in a microwave when you don't know what you're doing can kill you in 0.8333 heartbeats (5/6ths), not even a whole heartbeat. Otherwise, I am sure there is more than $30 worth of parts in it. The question is, who can use them ? No good for radio waves, but if you could modulate the output and find a way to focus the magnetism you could do something. For example a magnetron could come pretty close to being considered a MASER if the proper output tubing/system were used. They consider that glorified LED in your CD player a LASER, but it's not really a laser. Let's say you build a whizbang doodad to focus the entire output of the magnetron of a microwave into a beam. I wonder what it would do to the things it hits. At this point let me touch on the safety issue again, high voltage and current is NOT your only problem here. You should know about wave propagation and things like that as well before you start firng these things up outside of the cabinet. Dad told me of a time when they company told them HAVE NO METAL on you when you go within so many feet of this thing. One real sharp guy had a bic lighter explode in his shirt pocket. The metal ring at the top apparently melted into his lighter, thus breaching it. No matter what, be careful because in this case, $30 might just buy you enough fun for the rest of your life. Good luck JURB |
#3
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Induction range ???
fyi 35KHz operating freq.
see this http://www.emiata.com/images/CU-22A.pdf hank "JURB6006" wrote in message ... My Dad bought one of those years ago out of curiosity. Having been a machinist for all his life, he explained to me that those things use the same method to heat the pan as some heat treating processes in manufacturing. The problem is that you must use ferrous cookware, glass won't work at all, stainless exhibits some pretty wierd behaviour and aluminum is about as effective as the glass cookware. It stands on it's side proudly on the floor of one of his closets. His is a GE and we did fire it up one time just to see it work. I too wonder about other uses for the components inside. I guess anytime you need to heat iron or a ferrous alloy you could come up with something. This one has numerous safety systems, such as that it detects the presence of a pan uthat is big enough/u to cover the burner before it will turn on. Removal of the pan immediately shuts the burner down. Also the surface is made out of a special material that must be not only an effective thermal insulator, but must also have an extremely low thermal mass. I say this because a GE rep told me that a demo in the showroom included the salesman bringing a pot of water to a boil and removing it and putting his hand right where the pot had been. Apparently there is not even enough stored heat conducted from the pot to burn you, even a second later or less. We will not throw it out, it is a pretty cool piece of engineering, and now that Pops is retired, he might find time to take the thing apart. Being a normal nut, I think weapons until I realize it runs on a 50 amp 220 line. The thirty five men it would take to carry the batteries could probably do more damage on their own. But I digress. Go ahead and buy it if you are a ucompetent/u tinkerer and electrician or something, but I warn you, these things use VERY DANGEROUS voltages and currents. We intend to take this one apart one day, but believe me utmost caution will be observed. There will be no firing up of those coils without some very serious thought given to safety. Nobody wants to die. At the moment, I have no idea of your skill level, I don't know you so don't take this wrong. If you are not proficient in working with LETHAL VOLTAGES do not even mess with it. By my estimation these things are about 5 times more dangerous than a microwave oven. Messing around in a microwave when you don't know what you're doing can kill you in 0.8333 heartbeats (5/6ths), not even a whole heartbeat. Otherwise, I am sure there is more than $30 worth of parts in it. The question is, who can use them ? No good for radio waves, but if you could modulate the output and find a way to focus the magnetism you could do something. For example a magnetron could come pretty close to being considered a MASER if the proper output tubing/system were used. They consider that glorified LED in your CD player a LASER, but it's not really a laser. Let's say you build a whizbang doodad to focus the entire output of the magnetron of a microwave into a beam. I wonder what it would do to the things it hits. At this point let me touch on the safety issue again, high voltage and current is NOT your only problem here. You should know about wave propagation and things like that as well before you start firng these things up outside of the cabinet. Dad told me of a time when they company told them HAVE NO METAL on you when you go within so many feet of this thing. One real sharp guy had a bic lighter explode in his shirt pocket. The metal ring at the top apparently melted into his lighter, thus breaching it. No matter what, be careful because in this case, $30 might just buy you enough fun for the rest of your life. Good luck JURB |
#4
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Induction range ???
"Dick Carroll;" writes:
Sam Goldwasser wrote: (JURB6006) writes: snip For example a magnetron could come pretty close to being considered a MASER if the proper output tubing/system were used. They consider that glorified LED in your CD player a LASER, but it's not really a laser. This is simply not true. The laser diode in a CD/DVD player/drive is true laser, period. IIRC, LASER means "Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission Radiation". Can they do all that with a single LED, Sam? Yes, absolutely. It's not just a glorified LED. It has a laser medium (the semicondcutor), mirrors (on the ends of the cleaved crystal), and excitation (electrical current). Trust me, it's a true laser. Furthermore, it puts out a near diffraction limited beam that can be focused to a spot less than 2 um in diameter at the surface of the disc's information layer. You can't do that with any LED or non-laser light source. The laser diode in a CD or DVD player or drive is similar to what's in a laser pointer or diode laser module, a laser printer, and diode laser based barcode scanner (though the specific wavelengths and some other parameters differ). --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks. |
#6
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Induction range ???
Sam wrote;
Perhaps you should read the Diode Laser chapters of the Laser FAQ before posting? --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FA Perhaps it's time for a visit there. Been awhile since I stomped around repairfaq.org, howstuffworks etc. I think my main problem is with the terminology, and the fact that I'm a TV tech. Even at that, I think it's going to be awhile before I grasp the "simulated" part, because there uwas/u emission to excite the medium. Mainly, this thread was about induction heating, but I'll remember to keep lasers out of it until I know more Thanx for the enulight/uenment. JURB |
#7
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Induction range ???
(JURB6006) writes:
Perhaps you should read the Diode Laser chapters of the Laser FAQ before posting? Perhaps it's time for a visit there. Been awhile since I stomped around repairfaq.org, howstuffworks etc. Sorry, I may have been a bit hard on you. I think my main problem is with the terminology, and the fact that I'm a TV tech. Even at that, I think it's going to be awhile before I grasp the "simulated" part, because there uwas/u emission to excite the medium. Not siulated, stimulated! Mainly, this thread was about induction heating, but I'll remember to keep lasers out of it until I know more Thanx for the enulight/uenment. Right. Why are we talking about lasers? --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks. |
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