I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling
oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

"Kevin" skrev i melding
...
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling
oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.


Mix it yourself.
All ingredients in a good alkyd-paint are readily available
in the market, and any oldfashioned painter knows the receipes.

In my youth, painters made most their paints in-shop.
The simplest is boiled linseed oil and pigmentpowder
and thinner to please.

Bjarte

Bjarte Runderheim wrote:
"Kevin" skrev i melding
...

I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling
oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.



Mix it yourself.
All ingredients in a good alkyd-paint are readily available
in the market, and any oldfashioned painter knows the receipes.

In my youth, painters made most their paints in-shop.
The simplest is boiled linseed oil and pigmentpowder
and thinner to please.

Bjarte

I will give that a try if need be. I make my own wood finishes but I
never thought to give making my own paint a try.

Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless
environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes will
be available again.

--

Rumpty

Sweet!

Think I'll be able to buy lead paint again?


"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless
environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes
will
be available again.

--

Rumpty

Kevin wrote in :

I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling
oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Supposition he

Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient by
most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for cleaning are a
challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water.

This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as well
be a reaction to other 'market' forces.

I prefer the look of alkyd, and the lasting ability. However, because I
end up fitting painting in around the rest of life, water-based is what
gets used.

Let us know what you find out, please.

Patriarch

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 20:55:47 GMT, patriarch
wrote:

This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as well
be a reaction to other 'market' forces.

It may also simply be a BORG thing, or a state thing. My local paint
stores here in CT haven't said anything about it. I use oil based
ceiling paint on a regular basis over popcorn.

Barry

Use floor paint.

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that
will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will
get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil
based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams
and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by
quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 13:29:11 -0500, Kevin wrote:

I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling
oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing
was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we
know and love..

Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if
you've used "real" paint in the olde daze...

I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex
enamel"...
right... sorta like hiring a "criminal attorney"..

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 21:55:50 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

snip
I use oil based ceiling paint on a regular basis over popcorn.

Barry

humor

You might try butter. It tastes a whole lot better, IMHO...

/humor

"Leon" wrote in
om:


"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in
message .17...

Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient
by most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for
cleaning are a
challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water.

I have to disagree with you here. My partner and I paint probably 3
houses a year on average. We much prefer oil based paints for clean
up. Thinner will clean a brush 5 times faster than soap and water
will clean latex pased paints. We use both and much prefer oil based
at clean up time. We do all woodwork with oil based and all walls
with latex.

That's the combination I like best.


This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as
well be a reaction to other 'market' forces.

I prefer the look of alkyd, and the lasting ability.

The Alkyd is a dryer and should not change the appearance of the
paint. Do you actually prefer the look an oil based finish to a latex
finish?


I seem to have gotten the terms wrong, using alkyd instead of oil-based.

My painting is homeowner type, one room at a time, typically three colors,
two coats each. (Two wall colors, white ceiling & trim) Four different
cans of paint. (Two gloss levels on the white) And my wife has become
enamoured of the faux and decorator artsy treatments.

At least it's not wall paper very often any more.

Working as a pro, and recycling solvents properly, I agree with your
assessment. But, for me, painting three door jambs, and 60 ft of crown,
and then cleaning up, and doing it over and over again, and getting
interrupted because 'that green isn't what I thought I wanted', etc., makes
me grateful for water cleanup.

Keep doing things the way that is successful for you.

Patriarch

mac davis wrote in
:

I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex
enamel"...


So how do you suggest repainting, when you get tired of Navajo Sand, or
Antique White trim?

I don't believe that an Apollo 900 is quite THAT free from overspray.

If I could avoid brushing, I would. I've been a fan of airless since the
late 70's, when I was introduced to the Binks Super Bee (sp?) by some
painting pro friends of mine. But that was out of doors, and not on a
windy day.

Enlighten me some more, oh experienced one! I have the interiors of two
houses to repaint!

Patriarch

Steve Knight wrote:
mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by
quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.

Steve,
That's a great idea. Any idea as to proportions or should I experimant.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 22:22:49 GMT, "Leon"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Leon. read the OP. They said they tried Sherwin Williams, and were
told no.

I think with the exception of California, it is the type of store you buy
from that determines whether you can get oil based or not. In Houston, you
cannot get oil based paints from Sears but you can from Sherwin Williams,
the maker of Sears paint. I think the stores that attract the average home
owner will typically sell more latex paint. The pro stores sell more oil
based for interior trim.


************************************************** ***
Dogs are better than people.

People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........

patriarch wrote:

cans of paint. (Two gloss levels on the white) And my wife has become
enamoured of the faux and decorator artsy treatments.

I'm sorry. You have my sympathy. Maybe we should start a support group for
the husbands of wives who watch too many home decorator TV shows.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint
department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have
ever used.

Roger


"Kevin" wrote in message
...
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that
will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will
get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil
based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams
and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

Alky refers to the soy resins used in the paint not a dryer.

Roger


"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
.17...

Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient by
most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for cleaning are
a
challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water.

I have to disagree with you here. My partner and I pant probably 3 houses
a year on average. We much prefer oil based paints for clean up. Thinner
will clean a brush 5 times faster than soap and water will clean latex
pased paints. We use both and much prefer oil based at clean up time. We
do all woodwork with oil based and all walls with latex.


This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as
well
be a reaction to other 'market' forces.

I prefer the look of alkyd, and the lasting ability.

The Alkyd is a dryer and should not change the appearance of the paint.
Do you actually prefer the look an oil based finish to a latex finish?

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing
was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we
know and love..

Umm I think that is probably left up to the individual state. I have no
problems finding oil based myself.



Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if
you've used "real" paint in the olde daze...

Huh? Are you thinning it down? Like old oil based, I still have to use a
bit of thinner to get the paint to the right consistancy.

"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 22:22:49 GMT, "Leon"
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Leon. read the OP. They said they tried Sherwin Williams, and were
told no.



Yeah I saw that but I still buy oil based at the Sherwin Williams in
Houston. Local environmental laws may regulate where you can buy oil based
paints.

"Roger amd Missy Behnke" wrote in message
...
Alky refers to the soy resins used in the paint not a dryer.


I stand corrected....

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:47:01 GMT, patriarch
wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:

I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex
enamel"...


So how do you suggest repainting, when you get tired of Navajo Sand, or
Antique White trim?

I don't believe that an Apollo 900 is quite THAT free from overspray.

If I could avoid brushing, I would. I've been a fan of airless since the
late 70's, when I was introduced to the Binks Super Bee (sp?) by some
painting pro friends of mine. But that was out of doors, and not on a
windy day.

Enlighten me some more, oh experienced one! I have the interiors of two
houses to repaint!

Patriarch

We use my neighbors airless... not a lot more masking then you'd do
with a brush and a lot faster... most of the painters that I've talked
to only brush the trim if the client insists on it and will pay more..

Also, I might try that idea of adding water based poly... might give
it an "oil base" feel....

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 15:12:40 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net

thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing
was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we
know and love..

Umm I think that is probably left up to the individual state. I have no
problems finding oil based myself.



Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if
you've used "real" paint in the olde daze...

Huh? Are you thinning it down? Like old oil based, I still have to use a
bit of thinner to get the paint to the right consistancy.


yeah, you can thin it... actually most paint should be thinned, but
that's not the problem in my case..

The EPA has prohibited so many solvents and driers that the paint just
doesn't flow or dry the same as it used to.... most products seem to
get less expensive and more advanced with time, I think the process is
the opposite with oil base paint... (can't say that I miss the lead,
tho...)
I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an
additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out
like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter...

Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 4:03am (EST+5) From:
(Steve=A0Knight)
mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the
surface by quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.

Interesting thought. I take it you've tried it then? How does it
come out looking? Good? Bad? Indifferent?

And, yeah, I'll be trying it myself later on, but probably not
right away, so would like to know your thoughts on appearance, when it's
done.



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 4:35am (EST+5) (mac=A0davis)
says:
snip "latex enamel"...
right... sorta like hiring a "criminal attorney"

Now, what's that supposed to mean? I'm thinking "latex enamel" is
the product of some PR dork, but there's lots of attorneys out there
that are criminals.



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

Roger amd Missy Behnke wrote:
Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint
department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have
ever used.

Roger


"Kevin" wrote in message
...

I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that
will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will
get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil
based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams
and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net



Is Sherwin Williams not a real paint store?

That's a great idea. Any idea as to proportions or should I experimant.

it seems the more the better. but since it waters down the paint it becomes a
problem too. I usually added as much as I could till the paint just covered. the
paint will dry faster and usually smoother too and far harder.
I have used this method on walls too and it sure makes the plaint scrubbable.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

O

Interesting thought. I take it you've tried it then? How does it
come out looking? Good? Bad? Indifferent?

it looks the same as long as you use the right gloss level. but it usually lays
down smoother with no brush marks.
now if you could just buy the solids the poly is made from then it would not
water down the paint (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:17:41 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

"Leon" wrote in
. com:


"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in
message .17...

Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient
by most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for
cleaning are a
challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water.

(to whom it may concern, I lost track of the attribution)

Method: Keep 2 cans of solvent cycled with a spare clean one.
Wipe off the dirty brush on old newapaper to get the bulk of
the paint off. Then dip into the first can of solvent vigorously.
This cleans off the bulk of the paint you missed with the paper.
Now wipe on newspaper again to dry and remove more paint. Next dip
into the second clean can of solvent, rinsing clean. Hang dry.

After the paint settles in both cans, decant into the 3rd can
for reuse. Let the first can dry out and it can be tossed into
the garbage or recycled, as can the dried papers. Use the can
of semi-used thinner as the first-dip can contents next time
you need to clean up. Thinner can be reused quite a few times
if you let it settle overnight.


But, for me, painting three door jambs, and 60 ft of crown,
and then cleaning up, and doing it over and over again, and
getting interrupted because 'that green isn't what I thought
I wanted', etc., makes me grateful for water cleanup.

Right about that time, I'd have said something like this:

"OK, Honey. Here are the keys and the CC. The car is in the driveway,
the paint store is on 5th and Main, the ladder is still in the living
room, and the paint supplies are on the floor next to the ladder. Have
fun figuring out whatever it is that you want and then doing it. I'll
be in the den watching the game/reading a good book/vegging out."

--
The State always moves slowly and grudgingly towards any purpose that
accrues to society's advantage, but moves rapidly and with alacrity
towards one that accrues to its own advantage; nor does it ever move
towards social purposes on its own initiative, but only under heavy
pressure, while its motion towards anti-social purposes is self-sprung.
- Albert Jay Nock
- http://diversify.com Web Programming for curmudgeons and others. -

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 22:19:55 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient by
most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for cleaning are
a
challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water.

I have to disagree with you here. My partner and I pant probably 3 houses a
year on average. We much prefer oil based paints for clean up. Thinner
will clean a brush 5 times faster than soap and water will clean latex pased
paints. We use both and much prefer oil based at clean up time. We do all
woodwork with oil based and all walls with latex.

I painted houses full time for a few years, mainly Victorians,
back in the days when "NL" was still proudly known as
National Lead Industries :-) Like you, we usually used oil
on the outside, latex on the inside. Cleanup *was* quicker
after oil but some of our customers didn't appreciate the
smell. Since we used expensive brushes we had to clean
well. . But nowadays most do-it-yourselfers are either
going to throw away the brushes and rollers when they are done,
or toss them out when they go to use them again a year or
two later and find out that they're stiff because they weren't
cleaned enough the last time around: they're usually cheap gear
anyway. Couple that with the fact that oil paint is a pain to deal
with on clothes, floors, and other things it's spilled on unless
you deal with it right away, it's not surprising that box stores
are phasing out oil paint.

I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an
additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out
like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter...


Was it Penetrol?

Roger

Yah, but not one of my favorites. Go to one where the owner actually
works in the store.


"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Roger amd Missy Behnke wrote:
Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint
department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I
have ever used.

Roger


"Kevin" wrote in message
...

I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and
it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem.

I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil
based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be
available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin
Williams and got the same story.

Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been
paying attention to?
What can I use as a replacement if this happens?

Thanks all.

Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net



Is Sherwin Williams not a real paint store?

Lead paint, sure! There is no no no no no no o no proof lead is badddd for
you...

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Tim and Stephanie" wrote in message
news:MRajd.1991$EE3.1546@trndny09...
Sweet!

Think I'll be able to buy lead paint again?


"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless
environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes
will
be available again.

--

Rumpty

Funny you should mention that. Sears Best Weatherbrater has Polyurethane in
it now. It is GREAT paint and covers well. Flows well and goes a long way.


"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...
mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface
by
quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 15:12:40 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

The EPA has prohibited so many solvents and driers that the paint just
doesn't flow or dry the same as it used to.... most products seem to
get less expensive and more advanced with time, I think the process is
the opposite with oil base paint... (can't say that I miss the lead,
tho...)
I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an
additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out
like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter...

When I use Oil based, I use Manor Hall, Pratt& Lambert or Sherwin Williams
best paints. The pro paint stores still sell the additive to make the paint
flow well but I have not used it with any of the 3 I mentioned. They flow
well and it is like painting with liquid plastic. These paints are
expensive though. They generally cost about $40 per gallon but I can to all
interior doors and trim with 1 gallon on an average sized house.

Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 6:06pm (EST+5)
(Steve=A0Knight) informs us:
it looks the same as long as you use the right gloss level. but it
usually lays down smoother with no brush marks. snip

Excellent. Now I know what I'm going to use for vehicle painting
next time.



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 09:48:57 -0500, Silvan
calmly ranted:

patriarch wrote:

cans of paint. (Two gloss levels on the white) And my wife has become
enamoured of the faux and decorator artsy treatments.

I'm sorry. You have my sympathy. Maybe we should start a support group for
the husbands of wives who watch too many home decorator TV shows.

Married wimps^H^H^H^H^Hmen should do the Tough Love thing.
Lock out the channels via the remote using a password the
wife wouldn't know.

--
The State always moves slowly and grudgingly towards any purpose that
accrues to society's advantage, but moves rapidly and with alacrity
towards one that accrues to its own advantage; nor does it ever move
towards social purposes on its own initiative, but only under heavy
pressure, while its motion towards anti-social purposes is self-sprung.
- Albert Jay Nock
- http://diversify.com Web Programming for curmudgeons and others. -

On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:07:01 -0500, "Roger amd Missy Behnke"
wrote:


I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an
additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out
like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter...


Was it Penetrol?

Roger

YES!! great stuff....

I owe ya one, Roger, I don't have to call my brother now!

On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 11:44:19 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 4:35am (EST+5) (mac*davis)
says:
snip "latex enamel"...
right... sorta like hiring a "criminal attorney"

Now, what's that supposed to mean? I'm thinking "latex enamel" is
the product of some PR dork, but there's lots of attorneys out there
that are criminals.



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

that was my point... it's an oxymoron, like "military intelligence"

Nam twice, 2 divorces, avoided cancer so far.
Never got the t-shirt or the hat...

On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:37:29 -0500, "Rumpty"
wrote:

Lead paint, sure! There is no no no no no no o no proof lead is badddd for
you...
damn right, bro... gimme three..