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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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No More Oil Based Paint???
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture
that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net |
#2
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"Kevin" skrev i melding ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Mix it yourself. All ingredients in a good alkyd-paint are readily available in the market, and any oldfashioned painter knows the receipes. In my youth, painters made most their paints in-shop. The simplest is boiled linseed oil and pigmentpowder and thinner to please. Bjarte |
#3
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Bjarte Runderheim wrote:
"Kevin" skrev i melding ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Mix it yourself. All ingredients in a good alkyd-paint are readily available in the market, and any oldfashioned painter knows the receipes. In my youth, painters made most their paints in-shop. The simplest is boiled linseed oil and pigmentpowder and thinner to please. Bjarte I will give that a try if need be. I make my own wood finishes but I never thought to give making my own paint a try. |
#4
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Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless
environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes will be available again. -- Rumpty |
#5
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Sweet!
Think I'll be able to buy lead paint again? "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes will be available again. -- Rumpty |
#6
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Lead paint, sure! There is no no no no no no o no proof lead is badddd for
you... -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Tim and Stephanie" wrote in message news:MRajd.1991$EE3.1546@trndny09... Sweet! Think I'll be able to buy lead paint again? "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Now that the radical republicans are in power, all of those useless environmental laws will be repealed and the good old polluting finishes will be available again. -- Rumpty |
#7
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On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:37:29 -0500, "Rumpty"
wrote: Lead paint, sure! There is no no no no no no o no proof lead is badddd for you... damn right, bro... gimme three.. |
#8
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Kevin wrote in :
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Supposition he Oil-based is a great product, but is considered much less convenient by most painters, professional and otherwise. The solvents for cleaning are a challenge, compared to cleanup with soap and water. This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as well be a reaction to other 'market' forces. I prefer the look of alkyd, and the lasting ability. However, because I end up fitting painting in around the rest of life, water-based is what gets used. Let us know what you find out, please. Patriarch |
#9
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 20:55:47 GMT, patriarch
wrote: This MAY be a byproduct of environmental legislation, but may just as well be a reaction to other 'market' forces. It may also simply be a BORG thing, or a state thing. My local paint stores here in CT haven't said anything about it. I use oil based ceiling paint on a regular basis over popcorn. Barry |
#10
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 21:55:50 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote: snip I use oil based ceiling paint on a regular basis over popcorn. Barry humor You might try butter. It tastes a whole lot better, IMHO... /humor |
#11
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Use floor paint.
"Kevin" wrote in message ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net |
#12
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mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by
quite a bit and it will not stick to anything. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#13
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Steve Knight wrote:
mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by quite a bit and it will not stick to anything. Steve, That's a great idea. Any idea as to proportions or should I experimant. |
#14
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That's a great idea. Any idea as to proportions or should I experimant. it seems the more the better. but since it waters down the paint it becomes a problem too. I usually added as much as I could till the paint just covered. the paint will dry faster and usually smoother too and far harder. I have used this method on walls too and it sure makes the plaint scrubbable. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#16
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O
Interesting thought. I take it you've tried it then? How does it come out looking? Good? Bad? Indifferent? it looks the same as long as you use the right gloss level. but it usually lays down smoother with no brush marks. now if you could just buy the solids the poly is made from then it would not water down the paint (G) -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#17
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#18
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Funny you should mention that. Sears Best Weatherbrater has Polyurethane in
it now. It is GREAT paint and covers well. Flows well and goes a long way. "Steve Knight" wrote in message ... mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by quite a bit and it will not stick to anything. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#19
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 21:20:56 GMT, "Leon" wrote:
Funny you should mention that. Sears Best Weatherbrater has Polyurethane in it now. It is GREAT paint and covers well. Flows well and goes a long way. I should get some money I thought of this 15 years ago. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#20
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 13:29:11 -0500, Kevin wrote:
I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we know and love.. Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if you've used "real" paint in the olde daze... I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex enamel"... right... sorta like hiring a "criminal attorney".. |
#21
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mac davis wrote in
: I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex enamel"... So how do you suggest repainting, when you get tired of Navajo Sand, or Antique White trim? I don't believe that an Apollo 900 is quite THAT free from overspray. If I could avoid brushing, I would. I've been a fan of airless since the late 70's, when I was introduced to the Binks Super Bee (sp?) by some painting pro friends of mine. But that was out of doors, and not on a windy day. Enlighten me some more, oh experienced one! I have the interiors of two houses to repaint! Patriarch |
#22
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:47:01 GMT, patriarch
wrote: mac davis wrote in : I quit painting trim with a brush when they started using "latex enamel"... So how do you suggest repainting, when you get tired of Navajo Sand, or Antique White trim? I don't believe that an Apollo 900 is quite THAT free from overspray. If I could avoid brushing, I would. I've been a fan of airless since the late 70's, when I was introduced to the Binks Super Bee (sp?) by some painting pro friends of mine. But that was out of doors, and not on a windy day. Enlighten me some more, oh experienced one! I have the interiors of two houses to repaint! Patriarch We use my neighbors airless... not a lot more masking then you'd do with a brush and a lot faster... most of the painters that I've talked to only brush the trim if the client insists on it and will pay more.. Also, I might try that idea of adding water based poly... might give it an "oil base" feel.... |
#23
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"mac davis" wrote in message ... Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we know and love.. Umm I think that is probably left up to the individual state. I have no problems finding oil based myself. Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if you've used "real" paint in the olde daze... Huh? Are you thinning it down? Like old oil based, I still have to use a bit of thinner to get the paint to the right consistancy. |
#24
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 15:12:40 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: "mac davis" wrote in message .. . Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net thank the EPA... some assholes in Washington decided that breathing was more important than the smooth flowing, no brush mark paint we know and love.. Umm I think that is probably left up to the individual state. I have no problems finding oil based myself. Actually, the current "oil base" paint is kinda like using snot if you've used "real" paint in the olde daze... Huh? Are you thinning it down? Like old oil based, I still have to use a bit of thinner to get the paint to the right consistancy. yeah, you can thin it... actually most paint should be thinned, but that's not the problem in my case.. The EPA has prohibited so many solvents and driers that the paint just doesn't flow or dry the same as it used to.... most products seem to get less expensive and more advanced with time, I think the process is the opposite with oil base paint... (can't say that I miss the lead, tho...) I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter... |
#25
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I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter... Was it Penetrol? Roger |
#26
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On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:07:01 -0500, "Roger amd Missy Behnke"
wrote: I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter... Was it Penetrol? Roger YES!! great stuff.... I owe ya one, Roger, I don't have to call my brother now! |
#27
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"mac davis" wrote in message ... On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 15:12:40 GMT, "Leon" wrote: The EPA has prohibited so many solvents and driers that the paint just doesn't flow or dry the same as it used to.... most products seem to get less expensive and more advanced with time, I think the process is the opposite with oil base paint... (can't say that I miss the lead, tho...) I can't remember the name of the stuff we used to buy as an additive... senior moment... but it made the paint flow and lay out like the old days... I'll have to ask my brother the painter... When I use Oil based, I use Manor Hall, Pratt& Lambert or Sherwin Williams best paints. The pro paint stores still sell the additive to make the paint flow well but I have not used it with any of the 3 I mentioned. They flow well and it is like painting with liquid plastic. These paints are expensive though. They generally cost about $40 per gallon but I can to all interior doors and trim with 1 gallon on an average sized house. |
#28
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#30
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Mon, Nov 8, 2004, 6:06am (EST+5) (mac=A0davis)
claims: that was my point... it's an oxymoron, like "military intelligence" No. Saying "military intelligence" is an oxymoron. Saying "criminal lawyer" is being redundant. JOAT Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell are my T-shirts? |
#31
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On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 23:52:33 -0500, (J T)
wrote: Mon, Nov 8, 2004, 6:06am (EST+5) (mac*davis) claims: that was my point... it's an oxymoron, like "military intelligence" No. Saying "military intelligence" is an oxymoron. Saying "criminal lawyer" is being redundant. JOAT Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell are my T-shirts? hmm... I think you're right... Having experienced the result of the discussion in the past, I won't ask which category "feminine logic" fits in..... |
#32
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Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint
department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have ever used. Roger "Kevin" wrote in message ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net |
#33
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Roger amd Missy Behnke wrote:
Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have ever used. Roger "Kevin" wrote in message ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net Is Sherwin Williams not a real paint store? |
#34
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Yah, but not one of my favorites. Go to one where the owner actually
works in the store. "Kevin" wrote in message ... Roger amd Missy Behnke wrote: Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have ever used. Roger "Kevin" wrote in message ... I use oil based paint, alkyd, for bookcases and any painted furniture that will be in contact with paper. Latex has an affinity for paper and it will get stuck on it. Alkyds don’t have this problem. I’ve been informed by the local big boxes that they no longer selling oil based paints, other than floor and deck, and they will no longer be available after the first of the year. I went to my local Sherwin Williams and got the same story. Has anyone else heard this? Have I missed something I should have been paying attention to? What can I use as a replacement if this happens? Thanks all. Kevin-at-rileyhome-dot-net Is Sherwin Williams not a real paint store? |
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