What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 11:33:47 -0700, Itty wrote:


What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.



If you click on a glue - then click on "specifications"
you will see a helpful chart :

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sear...erOfResults=24

John T.

On 4/10/2021 1:33 PM, Itty wrote:

What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like.Â* e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

Try the Gorilla Glue made for wood, NOT the urethane based Gorilla Glue.

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-wood-glue/

You provably want an actual PVA glue


Past that I almost exclusively use Franklin TiteBond III.

I only use TiteBond III over other wood glues of this type because it
dries to a wood tone color vs. yellow.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 15:49:58 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 11:33:47 -0700, Itty wrote:


What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.



If you click on a glue - then click on "specifications"
you will see a helpful chart :

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sear...erOfResults=24

John T.

That's actually a pretty big topic. For typical new furniture
Titebond II or III is common. For repairs on vintage furniture hide
glue. If it has to meet a building code construction adhesive.
Otherwise really depends on the specific need.

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:33:54 AM UTC-7, Itty wrote:
What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

If there's no pressing reason to expect dribble, just white Elmers
works fine. Yellow woodwork glue for neatness. Both are PVA type.
Veneers work best with non-water-based, either acetone-type contact
cement or Gorilla (polyurethane).

If you must glue endgrain, polyurethane is well-behaved compared to
the (stronger) PVA water-thinned glues.

To re-glaze aluminum windows, I always use liquid nails to install softwood
so the glass presses against wood, not metal.

And, to redo antiques really requires hide glue.

There's two boxes of glues in the shelves next to two boxes
of greases and oils... and it's never enough.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 18:39:05 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:33:54 AM UTC-7, Itty wrote:
What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

If there's no pressing reason to expect dribble, just white Elmers
works fine. Yellow woodwork glue for neatness. Both are PVA type.
Veneers work best with non-water-based, either acetone-type contact
cement or Gorilla (polyurethane).

If you must glue endgrain, polyurethane is well-behaved compared to
the (stronger) PVA water-thinned glues.

To re-glaze aluminum windows, I always use liquid nails to install softwood
so the glass presses against wood, not metal.

And, to redo antiques really requires hide glue.

I've run into a problem with PVA-based glues in general, specifically
in doors. The problem is that these glues will creep under sustained
load, especially if hot, like a sun-baked exterior door.

For exterior doors, I ended up adding diagonal turnbuckle braces, to
keep the door from sagging farther and farther down, until the
swinging edge rested on the floor.

But, hide glue would also work - there are many doors in my house that
are from the 1930s, that have not sagged.


I've also had the problem with multi-lite French doors coming apart,
especially at the top, in the corner away from the hinges.

..https://www.doortodoorco.com/products/15-lite-french-door

For this, I had the carpenter use hide glue.

What would also work are the catalyzed glues used to make wooden
boats, like resorcinol.

..https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue


Joe Gwinn

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 15:13:25 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 18:39:05 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:33:54 AM UTC-7, Itty wrote:
What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

If there's no pressing reason to expect dribble, just white Elmers
works fine. Yellow woodwork glue for neatness. Both are PVA type.
Veneers work best with non-water-based, either acetone-type contact
cement or Gorilla (polyurethane).

If you must glue endgrain, polyurethane is well-behaved compared to
the (stronger) PVA water-thinned glues.

To re-glaze aluminum windows, I always use liquid nails to install softwood
so the glass presses against wood, not metal.

And, to redo antiques really requires hide glue.

I've run into a problem with PVA-based glues in general, specifically
in doors. The problem is that these glues will creep under sustained
load, especially if hot, like a sun-baked exterior door.

For exterior doors, I ended up adding diagonal turnbuckle braces, to
keep the door from sagging farther and farther down, until the
swinging edge rested on the floor.

But, hide glue would also work - there are many doors in my house that
are from the 1930s, that have not sagged.


I've also had the problem with multi-lite French doors coming apart,
especially at the top, in the corner away from the hinges.

.https://www.doortodoorco.com/products/15-lite-french-door

For this, I had the carpenter use hide glue.

What would also work are the catalyzed glues used to make wooden
boats, like resorcinol.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue

Definitely the good stuff. Only glue officially approved for
constructing wooden airplanes. Be careful with joint fit though--it's
picky.

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 15:49:56 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 15:13:25 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 18:39:05 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:33:54 AM UTC-7, Itty wrote:
What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

If there's no pressing reason to expect dribble, just white Elmers
works fine. Yellow woodwork glue for neatness. Both are PVA type.
Veneers work best with non-water-based, either acetone-type contact
cement or Gorilla (polyurethane).

If you must glue endgrain, polyurethane is well-behaved compared to
the (stronger) PVA water-thinned glues.

To re-glaze aluminum windows, I always use liquid nails to install softwood
so the glass presses against wood, not metal.

And, to redo antiques really requires hide glue.

I've run into a problem with PVA-based glues in general, specifically
in doors. The problem is that these glues will creep under sustained
load, especially if hot, like a sun-baked exterior door.

For exterior doors, I ended up adding diagonal turnbuckle braces, to
keep the door from sagging farther and farther down, until the
swinging edge rested on the floor.

But, hide glue would also work - there are many doors in my house that
are from the 1930s, that have not sagged.


I've also had the problem with multi-lite French doors coming apart,
especially at the top, in the corner away from the hinges.

.https://www.doortodoorco.com/products/15-lite-french-door

For this, I had the carpenter use hide glue.

What would also work are the catalyzed glues used to make wooden
boats, like resorcinol.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue

Definitely the good stuff. Only glue officially approved for
constructing wooden airplanes. Be careful with joint fit though--it's
picky.

Hmm. I would have thought that some kinds of Epoxy would be approved
for this, as they are widely used for assembling metal airplanes, in
particular the skins of pressurized aircraft.

Joe Gwinn

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 16:35:06 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 15:49:56 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 15:13:25 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 18:39:05 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:33:54 AM UTC-7, Itty wrote:
What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

If there's no pressing reason to expect dribble, just white Elmers
works fine. Yellow woodwork glue for neatness. Both are PVA type.
Veneers work best with non-water-based, either acetone-type contact
cement or Gorilla (polyurethane).

If you must glue endgrain, polyurethane is well-behaved compared to
the (stronger) PVA water-thinned glues.

To re-glaze aluminum windows, I always use liquid nails to install softwood
so the glass presses against wood, not metal.

And, to redo antiques really requires hide glue.

I've run into a problem with PVA-based glues in general, specifically
in doors. The problem is that these glues will creep under sustained
load, especially if hot, like a sun-baked exterior door.

For exterior doors, I ended up adding diagonal turnbuckle braces, to
keep the door from sagging farther and farther down, until the
swinging edge rested on the floor.

But, hide glue would also work - there are many doors in my house that
are from the 1930s, that have not sagged.


I've also had the problem with multi-lite French doors coming apart,
especially at the top, in the corner away from the hinges.

.https://www.doortodoorco.com/products/15-lite-french-door

For this, I had the carpenter use hide glue.

What would also work are the catalyzed glues used to make wooden
boats, like resorcinol.

.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue

Definitely the good stuff. Only glue officially approved for
constructing wooden airplanes. Be careful with joint fit though--it's
picky.

Hmm. I would have thought that some kinds of Epoxy would be approved
for this, as they are widely used for assembling metal airplanes, in
particular the skins of pressurized aircraft.

Bear in mind that there hasn't been a newly designed wooden aicraft
put in commercial production in a rather long time. If somebody
wanted to certificate a new one they'd likely get epoxy of some kind
approved, but there hasn't been a need.

"Itty" wrote in message ...


What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like. e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

For anything resembling fine woodworking or cabinet work I use Tite Bond or
Elmer's wood glue... If I want a bit of water resistance I use the Tite
Bond II.

I haven't found a good reason to use polyurethane glue, e.g., Gorilla Glue,
for those purposes.

For framing and construction purposes I use the appropriate construction
adhesive for the task.

On 4/10/2021 9:14 PM, knuttle wrote:
....

I have use and like the foaming Gorilla glue, however I don't use it.Â* I
do a lot of biscuits, and was away afraid the expanding foam would crack
the wood as it expands in the biscuit slot.

I don't know how valid it is but it is my concern.
....

What a mess it makes for no real purpose for woodworking unless is
something used outside and exposed to weather continuously.

The foam is nothing but air bubbles; it isn't going to have the force to
do any damage as far as actual use, but I won't touch the stuff except
for the rarest of rare cases actually needing something truly waterproof
-- and then, I'd probably use one of the resorcinols or similar instead.

Not being able to clean up with water is also such a pain for ordinary
woodworking.

Other than that, I don't have any opinions...

--

On 4/10/2021 1:33 PM, Itty wrote:

What glue brand and type do you all use for woodworking ?

I tried some but do not like.Â* e.g. Gorilla foaming is a mess.

Mostly TB II and III, depending. TB III is almost double the cost so
when was doing a lot of work that was a serious factor.

Any of the yellow glues are fine; as noted above I avoid the
polyurethanes like Gorilla original like the plague over the foaming and
cleanup hassles.

I've never tried the white Gorilla wood glue; it isn't a poly but I
noticed they were terribly proud of it on the shelf in the hardware
store the other day. I see no reason to switch from tried and true.

As another noted, hide glue has its place for old restoration work and
some other uses where repair is foreseen or required.

--

On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 1:07:07 PM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On 4/10/2021 9:14 PM, knuttle wrote:
...
I have use and like the foaming Gorilla glue, however I don't use it. I
do a lot of biscuits, and was away afraid the expanding foam would crack
the wood as it expands in the biscuit slot.

The foam is nothing but air bubbles; it isn't going to have the force to
do any damage as far as actual use
....
Yes, I agree with that. Also, biscuits are (as I understand it) compressed so that
water-base glue expands them for proper self-clamping in their sockets.

Not being able to clean up with water is also such a pain for ordinary
woodworking.

Where I do like to use it, is on edging plywood; it can be router-trimmed without
gumming up the bit, so trimming away the excess is a painless finishing operation.
A warm router bit does NOT work well while cutting through a hot-melting PVA joint.

Generous use of masking paper is the other way to make cleanup painless.

Thanks for the information

--
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