Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

Guy,

You didn't say how thick those jaws were but consider using some dowels to
add some strength to this pieces you add. You could also cut a M&T joint
along the top edges then glue the top pieces on. The M&T joint will give it
strength. May even want to turn that mistake into an enhancement by using a
contrasting hardwood.

Bob S.

"Guy LaRochelle" wrote in message
...
Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I
don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods
etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

Bob,

The rear jaw is 1.5" thick and the front jaw is 3" thick. I don't know how
useful dowels would be since the piece I would laminate on top would only be
about 3/8" thick at most to bring the jaw flush with the bench top.
Regards. -Guy



"BobS" wrote in message
news
Guy,

You didn't say how thick those jaws were but consider using some dowels to
add some strength to this pieces you add. You could also cut a M&T joint
along the top edges then glue the top pieces on. The M&T joint will give
it
strength. May even want to turn that mistake into an enhancement by using
a
contrasting hardwood.

Bob S.

"Guy LaRochelle" wrote in message
...
Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I
don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods
etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both
my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws
or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over
since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

You'd be gluing long grain to long grain, it should be plenty strong.
I don't think you'll have a problem.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:09:40 -0600, "Guy LaRochelle"
wrote:

Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy


-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

We're talking vise jaws here? Ain't necessary that this be art work.
Nice if it can be. I'd start over from scratch and try to get the best
vise jaws. To hell with what they look like. OMO

bob g.

Guy LaRochelle wrote:

Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

Bob,

Yes, I realize what you are saying that pretty vise jaws are not necessary.
But the question here is do you think that laminating a 3/8" thick piece on
the top edge of each jaw decrease their capabilites or weaken them?
Regards. -Guy



"Robert Galloway" wrote in message
...
We're talking vise jaws here? Ain't necessary that this be art work.
Nice if it can be. I'd start over from scratch and try to get the best
vise jaws. To hell with what they look like. OMO

bob g.

Guy LaRochelle wrote:

Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I
don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods
etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both
my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws
or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over
since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:09:40 -0600, "Guy LaRochelle"
wrote:

Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy




make that 1/4" piece out of the hardest, darkesd wood you can find,
and it'll be a "feature"...

"BobS" suggested:

... consider using some dowels to add some strength
to this pieces you add. You could also cut a M&T joint
along the top edges then glue the top pieces on. The M&T
joint will give it strength.

To which "Guy LaRochelle" replied...

The rear jaw is 1.5" thick and the front jaw is 3" thick. I don't know how
useful dowels would be since the piece I would laminate on top would only
be
about 3/8" thick at most to bring the jaw flush with the bench top.

No matter the thickness ( 1/4", 3/8", whatever ), I agree that the dowels
(or M&T) will add to the shear strength of the jaw caps. If you should have
the need to clamp just the bottom 1/4" of a workpiece at the top of your
vise, this strength may be appreciated.

/rick.

Glue a strip on there! There should be no problem. With work that is
clamped by the jaws, it will likely be clamped deeper than the band on
the top (which will be plenty strong IMO). If you are using dogs, the
strip on the top will have little effect.

David

wrote in message . ..
On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:09:40 -0600, "Guy LaRochelle"
wrote:

Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I don't
even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods etc
and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy




make that 1/4" piece out of the hardest, darkesd wood you can find,
and it'll be a "feature"...

How about a sliding dovetail?

Kevin
--
=====
"Guy LaRochelle" wrote in message
...
Bob,

The rear jaw is 1.5" thick and the front jaw is 3" thick. I don't know how
useful dowels would be since the piece I would laminate on top would only
be
about 3/8" thick at most to bring the jaw flush with the bench top.
Regards. -Guy

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 00:43:00 -0400, RickS wrote:

No matter the thickness ( 1/4", 3/8", whatever ), I agree that the
dowels (or M&T) will add to the shear strength of the jaw caps. If you
should have the need to clamp just the bottom 1/4" of a workpiece at the
top of your vise, this strength may be appreciated.

With that much thickness, the OP has the opportunity to make an awesome
dog. Just use hefty dowels. Lift the outer jaw on its pegs, and voila,
full-width dog. Nice.

Although the sliding dovetail suggestion sounds elegant...

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

You're right, my short response didn't address your question but I
think the multi part jaws probably won't be as strong as one piece.

bob g.

Guy LaRochelle wrote:
Bob,

Yes, I realize what you are saying that pretty vise jaws are not necessary.
But the question here is do you think that laminating a 3/8" thick piece on
the top edge of each jaw decrease their capabilites or weaken them?
Regards. -Guy



"Robert Galloway" wrote in message
...

We're talking vise jaws here? Ain't necessary that this be art work.
Nice if it can be. I'd start over from scratch and try to get the best
vise jaws. To hell with what they look like. OMO

bob g.

Guy LaRochelle wrote:


Hi guys,

I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I

don't

even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods

etc

and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both

my

jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws

or

would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over

since

it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 20:19:39 +0200, "P van Rijckevorsel"
wrote:

Guy LaRochelle schreef
I just screwed up and I am kind of ticked off. What a moron I am and I
don't even know how I made the mistake. I bought a large front vise from Lee
Valley to put on my workbench. I cut the front and rear jaws, I used the
template that came with the vise to bore all my holes for the guide rods
etc and I go to put it on my workbench and my holes are drilled in the wrong
place........arrrrgh. I am now short about 1/4" on the top edge of both my
jaws so they are not flush with the top of my bench. Does anyone see any
reason why I couldn't laminate a 1/4" edge to the top edge of both jaws or
would that create a weak spot? It would be a shame to start all over since
it was the nicest pieces of birch I could find in my shop. Regards. -Guy

* * *
Actually, strength does not enter into it, or you'd be using a metal vise.
The purpose of such a vise is to hold wooden objects securely without
damaging the wood. Therefore, what is important is not to use a different
wood than for the rest of the vise, so as to have a surface of uniform
hardness. Almost certainly looks are more important here than strength.

Worst case scenario (glue lines letting go) you'd have to do it over again.
PvR

I wish I had a better idea what went wrong with your setup (There's a
dozen ways to mount any vise to any bench). I mortised my bench top
to receive the metal jaw, used ply spacers, and fixed two oak face
cheeks to the metal jaws. The oak cheeks are larger than the metal
jaws. I used oak because that's the hardwood I found laying around
the shop. My vise is large and heavy (Record #53E) and the biggest
concern is this monster ever dropping on my toe. I used the biggest,
baddest four bolts I could possibly use. It has proved exceptionally
functional for 12 years, and probably many more to come.

On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 18:50:40 +0000, Phisherman wrote:

jaws. I used oak because that's the hardwood I found laying around
the shop. My vise is large and heavy (Record #53E) and the biggest

I used oak for the same reason. Never again. Splinters under pressure.
When I replace the jaws, soon, I'll use a more suitable wood.

Another thought just occurred: What about cutting the jaws so the grain is
vertical? Seems that would help prevent the splintering along the top.
Oversize jaw liners would have to be laminated, of course.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"