I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Thanks.

On Saturday, February 23, 2019 at 9:27:21 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Thanks.

If it were me, I, like you, would not go the West System, because you have to buy way more than you need I would use a quality epoxy (almost any quality brand) as its the best at both adhesion and gap filling.

On Saturday, February 23, 2019 at 7:27:21 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

Hide glue, when old, turns to dust; the deterioration is the result
of (according to lore) a slow-acting fungus.

That doesn't loosen the wood, though; disassemble, brush away the dust, rinse with
boiling water, and reapply hide glue. It'll stick fine, even if the old glue doesn't
completely come off.

Oher similar joints in that piece are also liable to need work.

On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 6:28:55 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Saturday, February 23, 2019 at 9:27:21 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Thanks.

If it were me, I, like you, would not go the West System, because you have to buy way more than you need I would use a quality epoxy (almost any quality brand) as its the best at both adhesion and gap filling.

The "way more" is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. ;-)

Back in my Soap Box Derby days I was buying the stuff by the gallon. I had pumps,
mixers, rollers, different kinds of filler, etc. Just don't need it anymore.

I thought I kept some filler when I tossed all the old liquids, but I can't find it. I just need a
little bit.

There's lots of West Systems products built into this bad boy.

https://i.imgur.com/xn31rqn.jpg

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 6:36:45 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, February 23, 2019 at 7:27:21 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

Hide glue, when old, turns to dust; the deterioration is the result
of (according to lore) a slow-acting fungus.

That doesn't loosen the wood, though;

Something did:

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg


disassemble, brush away the dust, rinse with
boiling water, and reapply hide glue. It'll stick fine, even if the old glue doesn't
completely come off.

Will hide glues fill those gaps?


Oher similar joints in that piece are also liable to need work.

Just some split grooves along some rails and one glue joint that opened up.
Already repaired. See my other thread about this piece, entitled:

"Back Panels On Desk - Cutting Error, Modification or Design Feature?"

More pictures there.

On 2/24/2019 10:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

That's basically the way those fit from new; you'll do more damage
messing with them than you'll fix. Leave 'em alone.

$0.20, imo, ymmv, etc., etc, etc., ...

If the drawer sides will disassemble easily, then just reglue and go on.
That one on the LHS was miscut initially by tracking wrong side of the
line w/ the sawcut.

As another noted, if this is pretty old and you can tell, reuse hide
glue so don't do anything irreversible.

--

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:08:16 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2019 10:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

That's basically the way those fit from new; you'll do more damage
messing with them than you'll fix. Leave 'em alone.

Unfortunately, I can't leave them alone. The previous image was when I was
squeezing the joint tight to show the gaps. This shows that it's completely
unglued.

https://i.imgur.com/A0Mkzv5.jpg

As far as disassembly, that may be the best I can/want to do. The joints
on the back of the drawer are solid. I might be able to loosen up the other
side and get the whole front off, but they somehow attached the track on the
bottom (that rides along the center rail) to the drawer bottom and front. The
track may be glued into a groove on the drawer front.

Further investigation is required.



$0.20, imo, ymmv, etc., etc, etc., ...

If the drawer sides will disassemble easily, then just reglue and go on.
That one on the LHS was miscut initially by tracking wrong side of the
line w/ the sawcut.

As another noted, if this is pretty old and you can tell, reuse hide
glue so don't do anything irreversible.

--

On 2/24/2019 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:08:16 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2019 10:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

That's basically the way those fit from new; you'll do more damage
messing with them than you'll fix. Leave 'em alone.

Unfortunately, I can't leave them alone. The previous image was when I was
squeezing the joint tight to show the gaps. This shows that it's completely
unglued.

https://i.imgur.com/A0Mkzv5.jpg

As far as disassembly, that may be the best I can/want to do. The joints
on the back of the drawer are solid. I might be able to loosen up the other
side and get the whole front off, but they somehow attached the track on the
bottom (that rides along the center rail) to the drawer bottom and front. The
track may be glued into a groove on the drawer front.

Further investigation is required.
....

Far better picture for the purpose...that shows the end of the tail on
RH is split from the drawer side and stuck in the front.

The gum being pretty soft has compressed some; the dovetail angles
weren't sharp-enough for the softer wood. Can't do much about those
problems now unless going to completely recut both.

This does show there is room for some shim material to refit the tails
to their sockets; the way one does this is to glue a piece of veneer or
the like to the tail then re-machine back down to the needed
size--basically it's _verysharp_ chisel/handwork time.

Ideally you could retrieve the broken tail piece from where it is and
reglue it before reassembling rather than just try to glue the break in
situ.

Whatever you do, don't just start dribbling epoxy or the like all over
everywhere.

--

On Sat, 23 Feb 2019 19:27:19 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.
I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.
I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.
Thanks.


Sorry - I can't offer any tried & true advice - but would
appreciate it greatly if you re-post your results after you've
made the repairs. I bet there isn't anyone reading who hasn't
had this same situation with old drawer dovetails.
I thought of Chair Doctor but it needs to soak in and expand the
wood fibers - will not work if the old glue is sealing the wood too
much. and it doesn't provide any gap filling - it is quite watery.
John T.

On 2/24/2019 10:49 AM, dpb wrote:
....

Far better picture for the purpose...that shows the end of the tail on
RH is split from the drawer side and stuck in the front.

The gum being pretty soft has compressed some; the dovetail angles
weren't sharp-enough for the softer wood.Â* Can't do much about those
problems now unless going to completely recut both.

This does show there is room for some shim material to refit the tails
to their sockets; the way one does this is to glue a piece of veneer or
the like to the tail then re-machine back down to the needed
size--basically it's _verysharp_ chisel/handwork time.

Ideally you could retrieve the broken tail piece from where it is and
reglue it before reassembling rather than just try to glue the break in
situ.
....

The LH side of the RH pin is almost dead-straight, almost no angle at
all...if I could get it apart, I'd be strongly tempted to recut that
socket to have an angle matching the RH (broken) side and add the stock
to the pin to match.

The second-from-left is also almost perfectly straight with what is left
of the pin--looks like there may be some missing material there as well.
That socket is pretty good in dimension, making a new pin to fit if
very will would be a goal.

Can't tell for sure about the leftmost one, there's the glueline of the
side material right at the point where the pin is cut; it looks again
like there's some missing material there that split off either
orignally, even, maybe or has since broken and looks to be gone.
There's that little triangular broken piece on the drawer front; back
where it began if there's enough to reglue it and would have a decent
socket angle there.

The middle just needs a little extra material to fill in the space...

It's tedious work at best, unfortunately. I did something similar to
drawers on the work clothes dresser in the basement a few years
ago...they were in far worse shape and ended up ripping down the side of
the drawer and replacing the bottom 1" or so with new pins cut to match.

They had had nails and other hardware inserted over the years that had
really split and sundered pieces--you at least have (mostly) intact
starting point. The soft gum with the shallow angle is the major issue
of why they failed.
--

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 11:57:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2019 19:27:19 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.
I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.
I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.
Thanks.


Sorry - I can't offer any tried & true advice - but would
appreciate it greatly if you re-post your results after you've
made the repairs. I bet there isn't anyone reading who hasn't
had this same situation with old drawer dovetails.
I thought of Chair Doctor but it needs to soak in and expand the
wood fibers - will not work if the old glue is sealing the wood too
much. and it doesn't provide any gap filling - it is quite watery.
John T.
If the object of the exercise is just to make the joint solid and
not to make a career out of it I'd tape the surface of the joint, cur
the dovetailprofile in the tape, and inject an expanding urethane glue
(gorilla) into the joint, then clamp it together while the glue
expands. When the glue is curets use a blade to remove the excess and
remove the tape for a nice neat "repair" The expanded urethane will
fill all the gaps makingit a tight fit even if the glue doesn't
"stick" to everything Drill a fine hole from the top and the bottom
and insert a snug fitting finish nail or wire from each end to
re-enforce the joint if you like - to keep the joint from "working"
loose.

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 13:40:57 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 11:57:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2019 19:27:19 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.
I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.
I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.
Thanks.


Sorry - I can't offer any tried & true advice - but would
appreciate it greatly if you re-post your results after you've
made the repairs. I bet there isn't anyone reading who hasn't
had this same situation with old drawer dovetails.
I thought of Chair Doctor but it needs to soak in and expand the
wood fibers - will not work if the old glue is sealing the wood too
much. and it doesn't provide any gap filling - it is quite watery.
John T.
If the object of the exercise is just to make the joint solid and
not to make a career out of it I'd tape the surface of the joint, cur
the dovetailprofile in the tape, and inject an expanding urethane glue
(gorilla) into the joint, then clamp it together while the glue
expands. When the glue is curets use a blade to remove the excess and
remove the tape for a nice neat "repair" The expanded urethane will
fill all the gaps makingit a tight fit even if the glue doesn't
"stick" to everything Drill a fine hole from the top and the bottom
and insert a snug fitting finish nail or wire from each end to
re-enforce the joint if you like - to keep the joint from "working"
loose.

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

As long as you never have to fix it again.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 14:38:48 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 13:40:57 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 11:57:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2019 19:27:19 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.
I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.
I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.
Thanks.


Sorry - I can't offer any tried & true advice - but would
appreciate it greatly if you re-post your results after you've
made the repairs. I bet there isn't anyone reading who hasn't
had this same situation with old drawer dovetails.
I thought of Chair Doctor but it needs to soak in and expand the
wood fibers - will not work if the old glue is sealing the wood too
much. and it doesn't provide any gap filling - it is quite watery.
John T.
If the object of the exercise is just to make the joint solid and
not to make a career out of it I'd tape the surface of the joint, cur
the dovetailprofile in the tape, and inject an expanding urethane glue
(gorilla) into the joint, then clamp it together while the glue
expands. When the glue is curets use a blade to remove the excess and
remove the tape for a nice neat "repair" The expanded urethane will
fill all the gaps makingit a tight fit even if the glue doesn't
"stick" to everything Drill a fine hole from the top and the bottom
and insert a snug fitting finish nail or wire from each end to
re-enforce the joint if you like - to keep the joint from "working"
loose.

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

As long as you never have to fix it again.
At my age if I do a reasonable repair it mon't be me next time - - -

On 2/24/2019 12:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
....

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

So would just running a 3" #10 screw through the drawer front...

--

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 4:02:07 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2019 12:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
...

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

So would just running a 3" #10 screw through the drawer front...


So would this...

https://i.imgur.com/52ztd4n.jpg

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 16:10:23 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 4:02:07 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2019 12:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
...

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

So would just running a 3" #10 screw through the drawer front...


So would this...

https://i.imgur.com/52ztd4n.jpg
Except my solution will not be visible to a casual observer, and
will be hard to see even if you know what you are looking at.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 15:02:04 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/24/2019 12:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
...

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

So would just running a 3" #10 screw through the drawer front...
No it wouldn't - it would destroy it.

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, but
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

You could also go with thick ca glue with epoxy filler. You can use a drop of Trans tint to color it.



https://www.vineyarddetails.com

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

On 2/24/2019 8:48 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 16:10:23 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 4:02:07 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2019 12:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
...

Sure, there are "better" ways to fix it, theoretically, that involve
more precise "woodwork" and show off your "craftemanship" - but if the
intent is just to repair the drawer, this will work,

So would just running a 3" #10 screw through the drawer front...


So would this...

https://i.imgur.com/52ztd4n.jpg
Except my solution will not be visible to a casual observer, and
will be hard to see even if you know what you are looking at.

Any "woodworker" could/would tell immediately...and go to the
construction details on seeing the piece for the first time just to
observe how were done. "It's what we do!"

The epoxy/resin glue does essentially as much damage to the value of the
piece as the screw would.

I was/am presuming this is _NOT_ DD's piece; that it is part of the
previous piece he was asked to repair by someone else. His objective
(and imo obligation to the owner) is to do as little irreversible as
possible.

If the owner of the piece is ok with "whatever", that's something else
again, but if it appeared to me the piece had any real value at all, I'd
have to have direct orders to resort to such and would probably decline.

This is, after all, the 'rec.WOODWORKING' group; working wood with some
skill and precision would be kinda' the goal. Even developing some new
skills/techniques would seem useful.

--

On 2/24/2019 11:07 AM, dpb wrote:
....

It's tedious work at best, unfortunately.Â* I did something similar to
drawers on the work clothes dresser in the basement a few years
ago...they were in far worse shape and ended up ripping down the side of
the drawer and replacing the bottom 1" or so with new pins cut to match.

They had had nails and other hardware inserted over the years that had
really split and sundered pieces--you at least have (mostly) intact
starting point.Â* The soft gum with the shallow angle is the major issue
of why they failed.

Sorry picture w/ cell phone but...

https://imgur.com/a/Rz0s6BI

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...doesn't look like those are so badly worn.

The gap showing in the drawer at bottom is the groove for drawer bottom;
they were cut through. You can see the material added to the bottom of
the third pin.

I didn't take exquisite care here but the fit wasn't much better than
yours when I started...now they are tight, no nails, no epoxy, no filler...

It's somewhat tedious hand work but really not _that_ difficult.

--

On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
....

It's somewhat tedious hand work but really not _that_ difficult.

But I can assure you'll have a _great_ feeling of reward/accomplishment
when done!

--

On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 6:57:33 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

Might I suggest stabilizing/locking the joint by drilling up from the bottom and inserting/gluing a 1/4" (?) dowel in each corner? Even a drill point screw might work with a proper pilot hole (may have to work from the top as well).
Once stabilized you could work with shims/epoxy/filler of your choice to pretty up the appearance...
Unless of course, I am missing the entire point of the thread (which I have been known to do

On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 11:52:24 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 6:57:33 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

Might I suggest stabilizing/locking the joint by drilling up from the bottom and inserting/gluing a 1/4" (?) dowel in each corner? Even a drill point screw might work with a proper pilot hole (may have to work from the top as well).
Once stabilized you could work with shims/epoxy/filler of your choice to pretty up the appearance...
Unless of course, I am missing the entire point of the thread (which I have been known to do

I don't think that you are missing the point of the thread - which is to
repair a drawer - but considering that I've barely got 5/16" of material
to work with, there's not much that I could "insert" into the joint.

On Tue, 26 Feb 2019 14:31:58 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 11:52:24 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 6:57:33 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

Might I suggest stabilizing/locking the joint by drilling up from the bottom and inserting/gluing a 1/4" (?) dowel in each corner? Even a drill point screw might work with a proper pilot hole (may have to work from the top as well).
Once stabilized you could work with shims/epoxy/filler of your choice to pretty up the appearance...
Unless of course, I am missing the entire point of the thread (which I have been known to do

I don't think that you are missing the point of the thread - which is to
repair a drawer - but considering that I've barely got 5/16" of material
to work with, there's not much that I could "insert" into the joint.
Nothing more than a finishing nail - and like I said before, you
better pre-drill even that.

On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 11:06:29 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 26 Feb 2019 14:31:58 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 11:52:24 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 6:57:33 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

Might I suggest stabilizing/locking the joint by drilling up from the bottom and inserting/gluing a 1/4" (?) dowel in each corner? Even a drill point screw might work with a proper pilot hole (may have to work from the top as well).
Once stabilized you could work with shims/epoxy/filler of your choice to pretty up the appearance...
Unless of course, I am missing the entire point of the thread (which I have been known to do

I don't think that you are missing the point of the thread - which is to
repair a drawer - but considering that I've barely got 5/16" of material
to work with, there's not much that I could "insert" into the joint.
Nothing more than a finishing nail - and like I said before, you
better pre-drill even that.

Give it up. There won't be anything other than some type of adhesive
and possibly some wood if I decide to add veneer to the dovetail pins.

On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 5:32:01 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 11:52:24 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 6:57:33 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 11:01:22 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 10:01:53 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 8:48:11 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/23/2019 9:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to repair a couple of drawers that have dried out dovetail joints. 2
drawers, maybe 16 pins.

I don't need anything like a full West Systems kit of epoxy and filler, bugt
I need something other than straight wood glue to fill in the gaps.

I could try wood glue and sawdust, but I'm wondering if there is something
better/neater.

Make shims for the pins to fill if they've shrunk, don't just try to
fill. Pictures would help...

This is the worst of the 2 drawers. The other one can probably be fixed
with just glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6qk7GxW.jpg

I'm with Dr. Deb. I would try epoxy first because it's thin enough to seep into those cracks when you push it in with a finger. If that didn't work, I would try Gorilla-type glue because it expands to
fit the crevices. You'd have to do trim the excess glue when done.

Please explain your comment "If that didn't work".

If you were doing this, what exactly would be your plan to see if epoxy "worked" and then move
on to Gorilla-type glue if it didn't?

Might I suggest stabilizing/locking the joint by drilling up from the bottom and inserting/gluing a 1/4" (?) dowel in each corner? Even a drill point screw might work with a proper pilot hole (may have to work from the top as well).
Once stabilized you could work with shims/epoxy/filler of your choice to pretty up the appearance...
Unless of course, I am missing the entire point of the thread (which I have been known to do

I don't think that you are missing the point of the thread - which is to
repair a drawer - but considering that I've barely got 5/16" of material
to work with, there's not much that I could "insert" into the joint.

Sorry, didn't realize the drawer components were so thin...As someone else mentioned, scale down the reinforcing "pin" accordingly...

On 2/26/2019 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

Give it up. There won't be anything other than some type of adhesive
and possibly some wood if I decide to add veneer to the dovetail pins.

Don't try to "shim"; apply more than you need and recut/shape the pin to
fit its socket.

--

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 9:53:40 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/26/2019 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Give it up. There won't be anything other than some type of adhesive
and possibly some wood if I decide to add veneer to the dovetail pins.

Don't try to "shim"; apply more than you need and recut/shape the pin to
fit its socket.

--

I've already started building this jig to help me reshape the pin.

http://forestryforum.com/gallery/alb...7/EDM%20V1.jpg

On 2/27/2019 11:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

I've already started building this jig to help me reshape the pin.

http://forestryforum.com/gallery/alb...7/EDM%20V1.jpg

Good; you're going to need it! VBG

I was just commenting that it's much easier to trim/pare back to line
with a little extra material to work with than it is to try to
manufacture a tiny little sliver to fit the necessary space...and the
added piece is then also much less likely to fracture into dust while
you're doing the trimming.

_Sharp_ is the key, of course.

--

On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
....

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

There is virtually no wear on the drawers. Here's the drawer itself...

https://i.imgur.com/QuxSAmL.jpg

....and here's the desk:

https://i.imgur.com/ee2rtX0.jpg

Note the thumbtacks(?) that were used as glides. Original? Don't know, but
I'll bet they helped keep the bottom of the drawer sides from wearing.

I also found that all of the center rails were screwed in at the front but
floating at the rear - although they all had nail holes at the rear. Just as
a test, I tried putting a tack at the rear of a couple of the rails, making
sure I hit the original hole in the carcass of the desk, but all that did
was make the drawers bind. They are back to floating and the drawers work as
smooth as can be. At least they do while empty, I haven't tried them loaded.

Back to the drawers: If you look closely you'll see that the bottom of the
back panel is beveled to allow for easier insertion into the carcass. That's
a nice touch.

On 2/28/2019 3:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

There is virtually no wear on the drawers. Here's the drawer itself...

https://i.imgur.com/QuxSAmL.jpg

...and here's the desk:

https://i.imgur.com/ee2rtX0.jpg

Note the thumbtacks(?) that were used as glides. Original? Don't know, but
I'll bet they helped keep the bottom of the drawer sides from wearing.

I also found that all of the center rails were screwed in at the front but
floating at the rear - although they all had nail holes at the rear. Just as
a test, I tried putting a tack at the rear of a couple of the rails, making
sure I hit the original hole in the carcass of the desk, but all that did
was make the drawers bind. They are back to floating and the drawers work as
smooth as can be. At least they do while empty, I haven't tried them loaded.

Back to the drawers: If you look closely you'll see that the bottom of the
back panel is beveled to allow for easier insertion into the carcass. That's
a nice touch.

Those "buttons" were fairly common but I've not seen a source for them
in years...I'd be pretty certain they are original. They're heavier
than just a thumbtack head but very similar and your presumption on
purpose and effect is spot on...

The angled rear reduces drag quite a bit and ensures don't hit any
catches at the rear cross rail joints if the move just a little. Indeed
a nice touch but not totally unique ime; I've seen similar before.

All it takes is the tiniest of movement to throw the carcase or drawer
out of square or not get them _quite_ aligned and pinning the slide can
easily cause the binding symptom. Need to be able to have the drawer in
place and locate the neutral position for the slide and then pin it
there to avoid. Leaving free if the slide fits the matching groove
reasonably well and the drawer pockets are snug enough the drawer
doesn't get off-kilter is the simple expedient...looks like started out
pinned and somebody took them out at some point...

--

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 5:22:54 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/28/2019 3:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

There is virtually no wear on the drawers. Here's the drawer itself...

https://i.imgur.com/QuxSAmL.jpg

...and here's the desk:

https://i.imgur.com/ee2rtX0.jpg

Note the thumbtacks(?) that were used as glides. Original? Don't know, but
I'll bet they helped keep the bottom of the drawer sides from wearing.

I also found that all of the center rails were screwed in at the front but
floating at the rear - although they all had nail holes at the rear. Just as
a test, I tried putting a tack at the rear of a couple of the rails, making
sure I hit the original hole in the carcass of the desk, but all that did
was make the drawers bind. They are back to floating and the drawers work as
smooth as can be. At least they do while empty, I haven't tried them loaded.

Back to the drawers: If you look closely you'll see that the bottom of the
back panel is beveled to allow for easier insertion into the carcass. That's
a nice touch.

Those "buttons" were fairly common but I've not seen a source for them
in years...I'd be pretty certain they are original. They're heavier
than just a thumbtack head but very similar and your presumption on
purpose and effect is spot on...

The angled rear reduces drag quite a bit and ensures don't hit any
catches at the rear cross rail joints if the move just a little. Indeed
a nice touch but not totally unique ime; I've seen similar before.

All it takes is the tiniest of movement to throw the carcase or drawer
out of square or not get them _quite_ aligned and pinning the slide can
easily cause the binding symptom. Need to be able to have the drawer in
place and locate the neutral position for the slide and then pin it
there to avoid. Leaving free if the slide fits the matching groove
reasonably well and the drawer pockets are snug enough the drawer
doesn't get off-kilter is the simple expedient...looks like started out
pinned and somebody took them out at some point...


While I had the back open, I played with the slides a bit and have
decided to agree with whoever decided to take the pins out.

Speaking of having the back off, take a look at this thread when you have
a chance. That thread is about the back panels of this piece. Another
curiosity on my part.

Back Panels On Desk - Cutting Error, Modification or Design Feature?

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:54:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

There is virtually no wear on the drawers. Here's the drawer itself...

https://i.imgur.com/QuxSAmL.jpg

...and here's the desk:

https://i.imgur.com/ee2rtX0.jpg

Note the thumbtacks(?) that were used as glides. Original? Don't know, but
I'll bet they helped keep the bottom of the drawer sides from wearing.

I also found that all of the center rails were screwed in at the front but
floating at the rear - although they all had nail holes at the rear. Just as
a test, I tried putting a tack at the rear of a couple of the rails, making
sure I hit the original hole in the carcass of the desk, but all that did
was make the drawers bind. They are back to floating and the drawers work as
smooth as can be. At least they do while empty, I haven't tried them loaded.

Back to the drawers: If you look closely you'll see that the bottom of the
back panel is beveled to allow for easier insertion into the carcass. That's
a nice touch.


That construction looks so very very much
like a maple " childs / youths" ? desk that we had until recently !
Ours, no doubt, was passed along through many families -
serving us and them all very well.
The glide buttons seem original - the only modern replacements
that I've seen are "plastic" - I would not recommend them.

Often - for sticky drawers - once the structural issues
have been addressed - a light sanding or steel wool rub -
- to clean the years of grunge - of all the gliide surfaces -
followed by some teak oil or similar - will do wonders !
John T.

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 7:24:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:54:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/25/2019 5:14 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The bottom you can see I replaced entirely because the soft pine had
worn down so badly over the years the drawers would barely function at
all...

Actually, the recollection now arises (it's been 10+ yr now) that the
sides had worn to the point the groove for bottom panels had morphed
into a rabbet as there was so little material left the bottom edge had
broken off, dropping the bottoms out of the drawers...hence my using the
oak for the new pieces.

--

There is virtually no wear on the drawers. Here's the drawer itself...

https://i.imgur.com/QuxSAmL.jpg

...and here's the desk:

https://i.imgur.com/ee2rtX0.jpg

Note the thumbtacks(?) that were used as glides. Original? Don't know, but
I'll bet they helped keep the bottom of the drawer sides from wearing.

I also found that all of the center rails were screwed in at the front but
floating at the rear - although they all had nail holes at the rear. Just as
a test, I tried putting a tack at the rear of a couple of the rails, making
sure I hit the original hole in the carcass of the desk, but all that did
was make the drawers bind. They are back to floating and the drawers work as
smooth as can be. At least they do while empty, I haven't tried them loaded.

Back to the drawers: If you look closely you'll see that the bottom of the
back panel is beveled to allow for easier insertion into the carcass. That's
a nice touch.


That construction looks so very very much
like a maple " childs / youths" ? desk that we had until recently !
Ours, no doubt, was passed along through many families -
serving us and them all very well.

Could be...

https://i.imgur.com/vCG8xG7.jpg

The glide buttons seem original - the only modern replacements
that I've seen are "plastic" - I would not recommend them.

Steel drawer tacks are still available:

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/pro...r-thumb-tacks/


Often - for sticky drawers - once the structural issues
have been addressed - a light sanding or steel wool rub -
- to clean the years of grunge - of all the gliide surfaces -
followed by some teak oil or similar - will do wonders !

Not needed in this case, but good advice.

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 6:25:00 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Speaking of having the back off, take a look at this thread when you have
a chance. That thread is about the back panels of this piece. Another
curiosity on my part.

Back Panels On Desk - Cutting Error, Modification or Design Feature?

How deep are the drawers compared to how deep the carcass cavity is? If there is some carcass space (1"?) at the rear, maybe there were vertical boards along the back (side) edges, that the back panel attached to, rather than their attaching to the sides of the carcass. I don't see any nail/screw holes to support this idea, but maybe the vertical board attachment evidence are somewhere unseen in your pic.
https://imgur.com/0bXFzQJ

Sonny