I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

*snip*
What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

The image quality is plenty clear. You can see the effects of the 200
tooth blade and the tear out on the bottom.

*snip*

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.

I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
about it.
For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
very hard to control.

In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples...ade-80t-hi-atb
I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
It looks similar to yours.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 15:23:38 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

I've never had good luck with those really fine-toothed plywood
blades, either for the table saw or circular saws. I have an Avante
80T carbide blade for my TS that isn't terrible. It's no WWII but it
works. I'm not sure what you expect from a $10 blade, though.

BTW, it wasn't in backwards, was it? DAMHIKT ;-)

On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.

I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
about it.
For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
very hard to control.

In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples...ade-80t-hi-atb
I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
It looks similar to yours.


I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade. (Dinner
wasn't ready yet.)

The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut effort
was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I put the 40 tooth
back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the best of the three.

Should I trust this $40 deal?

https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1

On 11/19/2017 6:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg


Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
guess the manufacturer has no shame.

On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much,
but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade
before. More is better, right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698



I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti
to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it
was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even
maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount of effort
required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was astounding. I've
got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw. I'm tired just
thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is
the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that
I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I
haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707




I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.

I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but
because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving
you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.

In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine. I
use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples...ade-80t-hi-atb I got
it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in
plywood. It looks similar to yours.


I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade.
(Dinner wasn't ready yet.)

The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut
effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I
put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the
best of the three.

Should I trust this $40 deal?

https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1


If it's new, probably.
One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade. Thin kerf
blades can and do bend enough to adversely affect the accuracy of cuts.

I would normally never buy a thin kerf blade since my table saw has
plenty of horse power. But in this case, as I mentioned, I was looking
for a blade with very sharp, very pointy outer teeth. The Marples fit
the bill.

I still use it for the occasional crosscutting on the TS. I has a job
where I needed to cut up about 22 sheets of plywood and didn't want to
use a $100 blade to do it, so I threw the Marples on and was very
pleased with the ease and cleanness of the cut. It was effortless and
didn't have a lot of chip out.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 9:16:26 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much,
but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade
before. More is better, right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698



I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti
to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it
was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even
maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount of effort
required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was astounding. I've
got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw. I'm tired just
thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is
the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that
I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I
haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707




I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.

I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but
because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving
you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.

In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine. I
use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples...ade-80t-hi-atb I got
it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in
plywood. It looks similar to yours.


I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade.
(Dinner wasn't ready yet.)

The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut
effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I
put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the
best of the three.

Should I trust this $40 deal?

https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1


If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

On 11/19/17 9:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 9:16:26 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 6:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I
thought I'd try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect
much, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Never tried a 200
tooth blade before. More is better, right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698





I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the
Avanti to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean
cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches,
it was apparent that I'll have to take numerous breaks and
even maybe a nap or two once I start my project. The amount
of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4" plywood was
astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table
saw. I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece
is the Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade
that I've used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of
aluminum. I haven't tried that yet...don't have time tonight.
Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707






I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home
depot.

I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a
warning about it. For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut
but because the blade is so thin, it bends and starts to curve,
giving you a crooked cut that is very hard to control.

In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do
fine. I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for
40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples...ade-80t-hi-atb I
got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to
cross cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect
cuts in plywood. It looks similar to yours.


I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous
blade. (Dinner wasn't ready yet.)

The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise.
Cut effort was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other
factor, I put the 40 tooth back on and did one last cut. It's
definitely the best of the three.

Should I trust this $40 deal?

https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1


If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though. I used blade stabilizers,
as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?


Whatever's cheap. They're not rocket science.

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the
blade?


Yes. But, you'll need a new ZCI for the different kerf anyway.
They are easy to make and you should have one for each thickness blade
if you really want to take advantage of what a ZCI can do (prevent
tearout).

While we're on the subject, the blade stabilizers will help to keep the
slot in the ZCI tight against the blade. When the blade can wobble, it
will widen the slot allowing tearout.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.

On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:15:02 -0500
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
guess the manufacturer has no shame.


another sign of the degradation of the supply chain to the consumer

instead of the buyer for home depot insisting on quality they buy
from some pre approved supplier

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 15:23:38 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 wrote:

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few
test cuts on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the
Avanti to. An easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.


put a 8 inch diablo on my 10 inch table saw and it is amazing

bought the blade for my mitre saw but thought why not try it

thinking about it the 8 inch may be a little stiffer since it is shorter
span from spindle to blade tip and it is slower too

it is very quiet

those diablo blades for my skilsaw make it feel like a different saw

it is the thin kerf the tip design and spacing and the stress
relievers in the blade face


make sure you make a new zero clearance insert for your ts

Spalted Walt wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.

Clarification:
If the blade stiffener is 1/8" and the Irwin is 3/32" then
the afore mentioned "smidgen" = ~ 3/32" wider.

Another consideration when switching to a thin kerf:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...85/#post320350

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:43:09 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 21:15:02 -0500
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
guess the manufacturer has no shame.


another sign of the degradation of the supply chain to the consumer

instead of the buyer for home depot insisting on quality they buy
from some pre approved supplier

Home Depot just sells what people want to buy. They're not a high-end
woodworking store, like say, Highland. I'd be surprised if HW sold
such (but even their customers may want to buy such) but the likes of
HD, Sears, and HF sell what the greatest (common denominator) number
of people want. If you want to blame someone, blame the (generic)
customer. You may not always get what you pay for but you're
certainly not going to get something you didn't pay for.

Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.



On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw..
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.



On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not to expect much for $10.

Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting sheet goods on a table saw.
They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts.
So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.

It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.

On 11/20/17 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.



On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not to expect much for $10.

Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting sheet goods on a table saw.
They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts.
So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.

It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.


They don't even make good clocks.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 3:39:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/20/17 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 1:50:42 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.



On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not to expect much for $10.

Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting sheet goods on a table saw.
They mentioned picking up an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts.
So I get to HD and see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.

It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.


They don't even make good clocks.


It would probably give me a rough time.

-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.

On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.


Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.


Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.

Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.

On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.


Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.

Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.


Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 10:50:39 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide. All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw. And its not known for making a smooth cut.

There is no reason that steel can't be as sharp as carbide, even
sharper. More likely the problem is the $10. How accurate is the set
in all those teeth? How sharp? High-end blades don't have nearly that
many teeth. The highest I've seen is around 80 for a 10" blade and
that's for solid-surface counter material.


On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707

On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
useful blade is the #1 grind.

On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
useful blade is the #1 grind.


I love the Glue-Line!
Is the #1 grind the flat top one?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 20:38:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
useful blade is the #1 grind.


I love the Glue-Line!

It's certainly worth the bother of changing blades.

Is the #1 grind the flat top one?

Yes.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/forrestwoodworkerii10x40toothno1squarecutblade18ke rf.aspx

On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 7:21:55 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.


Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.

Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.


Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p



If you plan to use just one, use this one.

http://www.wonders-in-wood.us/images.../stiffener.jpg

On 11/20/17 9:21 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 7:21:55 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/20/17 6:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/20/17 4:53 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.


Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.

Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.


Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p



If you plan to use just one, use this one.

http://www.wonders-in-wood.us/images.../stiffener.jpg


You win! LMAO.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 22:53:51 -0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote in news
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.

If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.

If you use two stabilizers one on each side of the blade, the ones I
have came in a pair. Then the answer is yes.

-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/20/17 8:19 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 17:35:39 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2017 5:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-1...200X/202021698

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.

Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg

I've got an 84 tooth laminate/non-ferrous metal Diablo blade that I've
used on my miter saw to cut a small amount of aluminum. I haven't tried
that yet...don't have time tonight. Thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...084L/100660707


Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another
useful blade is the #1 grind.


I love the Glue-Line!
Is the #1 grind the flat top one?



I'll have to make a correction to my statement. I do change a WWII for
another WWII that I had Forrest put a flat grind on, I use it strictly for
narrower than 1/4" wide groves.

-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.



Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
meant nut side.

But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
some splintering.

AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/19/2017 6:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.

I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

https://i.imgur.com/leZfTbI.jpg


Well, everything is relative. It is better than say, a steak knife.
Makes you wonder how a product like that gets on the store shelf. I
guess the manufacturer has no shame.


I think the blade is intended for THIN plywood. I had one these style
blades in 1979, it only did well in thin material.

wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2017 10:50:39 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Getting back to the topic. I wonder if the worse cut from the 200 tooth
blade is due to it being steel, while your other blades are carbide.
All of my blades are carbide. Table saws and circular saws and miter
saws. About the only steel blades I have are for the reciprocating saw.
And its not known for making a smooth cut.

There is no reason that steel can't be as sharp as carbide, even
sharper. More likely the problem is the $10. How accurate is the set
in all those teeth? How sharp? High-end blades don't have nearly that
many teeth. The highest I've seen is around 80 for a 10" blade and
that's for solid-surface counter material.


On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 5:23:41 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,



I'll go with too many teeth for thick material. The blades teeth are
simply loading up before clearing the cut. There is no more room in the
gullet before the teeth exit the cut.

When resawing on a BS it is recommended that there be fewer teeth so that
the gullets do not fill before exiting the cut. One of my blades has a
tooth every 1.3". It resaws smoother and faster than my blades with more
closely cut teeth.

On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.



Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
meant nut side.

But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
some splintering.

AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.


Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense.
Also you could cut long and flip over to make the final cut.
But yeah, just make a new ZCI and be done with it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 5:35:50 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Of all the years of being in and out of cabinet shops (and using blades myself) I have never seen a higher tooth count than 80 (on 12" saws) and usually no more than 60 tooth count on 12" or 10". Production cabinet shops design cabinets to hide their cuts, so speed and accuracy of dimension are just as important as splinter problems.

They use brands of blades that I only see when I am in their shops, and the blades are selected by the size of carbide tips (determines the times they can be sharpened) and by the type of carbide (at least C3), the tooth design and quality of original manufacture.

The only time I see the super high tooth count blades is on mitering machines of some sort that cut specialty moldings.

Robert

On 11/21/2017 12:11 PM, wrote:
On Monday, November 20, 2017 at 5:35:50 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.

My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey
but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a
stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.

Of all the years of being in and out of cabinet shops (and using blades myself) I have never seen a higher tooth count than 80 (on 12" saws) and usually no more than 60 tooth count on 12" or 10". Production cabinet shops design cabinets to hide their cuts, so speed and accuracy of dimension are just as important as splinter problems.

They use brands of blades that I only see when I am in their shops, and the blades are selected by the size of carbide tips (determines the times they can be sharpened) and by the type of carbide (at least C3), the tooth design and quality of original manufacture.

The only time I see the super high tooth count blades is on mitering machines of some sort that cut specialty moldings.

Robert


Systematic ring a bell? That was my first good quality blade, a local
and old picture framing shop used them on their miter saws.

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


That could be it. I knew it was steel when I bought it, and I knew not
to expect much for $10.

Here's what happened. I was recently perusing an article on cutting
sheet goods on a table saw. They mentioned picking up an inexpensive,
high tooth count plywood blade for the best cuts. So I get to HD and
see an inexpensive, high tooth count plywood blade. I said myself "I'm
sure this won't be any good, but it's worth a quick test.

It's already packaged back up and ready to be returned.

Sometimes I wonder if writers live the thing they write about. Just
reading historical documents and adding your thoughts may be a good way
to get an article done, but it doesn't exactly add to the sum of human
knowledge.

My carbide blades do just fine with most plywood, going up to 80T max. I
usually use a 40T or 60T if the cut edge isn't critical, depending on
what's on the saw. I have not really seen that great of result from
super high tooth count "Naruto's Hair" style teeth the few times I've
tried.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 9:53:47 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/21/17 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/19/17 10:14 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

If it's new, probably.

I found a better deal on eBay. New, $38, free shipping. Ordered

One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade.

Any suggestions on what to buy?

I've got an old set of Dewalt stabilizers that I don't like.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/f...ter-x-5-8-bore

http://www.rockler.com/blade-stabilizers

Are they going to screw up my zero clearance inserts by moving the blade?

It might widen it a smidgen.


It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.



Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
meant nut side.

But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
some splintering.

AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.


Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense.
Also you could cut long and flip over to make the final cut.
But yeah, just make a new ZCI and be done with it.


--


And a new sled? I'd rather not.