https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.

On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 12:37:39 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.
What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me
to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.
I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block
for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together.
I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.
Thanks.



There are quite a few plans available for work-benches -
here's just one example.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,46158,73358

I have seen a couple like this one below sell fairly cheap at auction
sales :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...04&cat=1,41637

Often you can look at some examples and plans and then modify it
for your needs and budget and materials at-hand.

John T.

On 11/13/2017 2:37 PM, Michael wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.


I have been seriously woodworking for, um er uh, since I was 23. It's
now 40 years later. Woodworking was first a hobby and currently as a
very small business for the last 20 years. I average 5 pieces of
furniture per year.

I have touched, fondled, and dreamed of just about every type of work
bench out there.

My 3 car garage is my shop and everything is on mobile bases.

The big bench is cool but in my experience even small benches can get in
the way, so being able to move or remove the bench is very important to
me. Many work benches end up being a catch-all.

My next bench will be this one, big but portable and easily stored away
when not in use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt77_jugVZs

replying to Michael, Iggy wrote:
I guess it's alright, m_a_y_b_e, if you're doing hand-sawing, carving and
chiseling. But, I really don't like any of it nor would I keep it if someone
gave it to me. I've never had a need nor desire in any case (including the
above) whatsoever for a super-stupid heavy table.

And, the table-top aligned with the legs, edge legs? The dumbest design for
ANY workbench! Nowhere to clamp, stub your toe hard enough and maybe slosh an
open can of stain, shavings or grindings or drillings drop on the shelf
instead of just the floor.

I've never had a problem with hardwood dining-room or metal frame office style
tables that are very lightweight, have shouldered legs and therefore easily
removable legs. If you go that video's route, glue and lots of screws is an
absolute must for those softwoods.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...de-812153-.htm

On 11/13/2017 3:37 PM, Michael wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.

You said small workbench, so I think the one in the video is
significantly over kill.

Assuming small means a small work shop or work area, I think the most
important criteria is light and portable. Obviously strength and
durability are a concern.

I made my work bench on wheels, as my garage is my work shop. It was
designed to be the same height as my table saw. With these two items
moveable, I can arrange my work area to the best configuration for the
job. If I am working on the car, the bench can be moved into a position
relative to the car that is most convenient. If I am using the bench
with the table saw it can become an out feed table saw for ripping or a
staging area when I am cutting a lot of small parts. Since it is
moveable I can work form all four sides of the project or rotate the
whole thing to get the best light and access to the job at hand. When
done with the project everything can be moved against a wall to maximize
the space for the cars.

The bench is constructed of 2 X 4's with all half lapped joints for
maximum strength. The top consist of a half lapped 2 X 4 frame, with a
3/4 inch piece of plywood that is let into the frame with a dodo on all
edges. It has two shelves again with a 2X4 frame half lapped into the
legs, and a 3/4 plywood. The ends are enclosed for storage of jigs,
clamps and small tools. While my brother in law laughed at me because he
thought I should paint it, I sanded and varnished the hole thing. The
hard varnished surface wipes clean, and the vanish does not show stains
and minor damage like paint.

This bench was constructed over 30 years ago and is as strong to day as
it was when I completed it. The 2/4 frame around the top gives a good
3 inch edge for attaching clamps, yet is light.

If you are working on extremely heavy items, or doing a lot of large
layout it may be inadequate but it works for me.





--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 12:37:39 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the
butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the
three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but
maybe I'm missing something.

screws just make it static and stout

the design is fine but why not just do it all with two by fours

it will be heavy even with two by fours


in any case go with kiln dried lumber

On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 4:03:42 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 12:37:39 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the
butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the
three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but
maybe I'm missing something.

screws just make it static and stout

the design is fine but why not just do it all with two by fours

it will be heavy even with two by fours


in any case go with kiln dried lumber

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

Thanks.

On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 6:54:01 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:


Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.


Ask Norm.

Seriously, the screws allow you glue, screw and move on to the next 2 x 4.
No need to clamp.

On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 4:03:42 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 12:37:39 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the
butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the
three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but
maybe I'm missing something.

screws just make it static and stout

the design is fine but why not just do it all with two by fours

it will be heavy even with two by fours


in any case go with kiln dried lumber

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

He's using the screws because he doesn't have enough clamps.

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 2:37:42 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.

Its a nice table with a shelf down below. But its not a woodworking workbench. Woodworking workbenches have vises on them to hold the wood so you can work with the wood. If you put a Record vise on one corner and a Veritas twin screw vise on the end, then you would have a good workbench.

On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 6:10:24 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 6:54:01 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:


Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.


Ask Norm.

Seriously, the screws allow you glue, screw and move on to the next 2 x 4.
No need to clamp.

My preference is not to clamp. I have a decent flat surface to glue the top (face down). It's not torsion box but it's not bad. I can make the butcher block top, then attach the A-frame sides with glue and maybe lag bolts. What do you think?

Russell@yahoo, I'm embarrassed to say how many unused table vices I have. When I see them at sales, I can't help but buy them if they're cheap.

On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take
off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

sounds reasonable
do you want a trough in the middle for tools and such
paul sellers recommends that

maybe not for an assembly table



Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type
top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

maybe think of screws in this case like praying
it might not hurt to add screws

would not make it the way he did in the video
would make the top first and the legs and rails last

he did it bass ackwards and made extra work for himself

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 7:10:11 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take
off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

sounds reasonable
do you want a trough in the middle for tools and such
paul sellers recommends that

maybe not for an assembly table



Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type
top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

maybe think of screws in this case like praying
it might not hurt to add screws

would not make it the way he did in the video
would make the top first and the legs and rails last

he did it bass ackwards and made extra work for himself

Who is going to help you lift that top onto the legs?

"Michael" wrote in message
...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in
the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good
to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the
experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher
block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts
together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing
something.

Thanks.

Can't believe this is still on Bernie Hunts web site but it is:

http://huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm

This is one I made from a design in FWW magazine. Mine is still in use in
my shop and has withstood the test of time an abuse. I added a Lee Valley
end vice.

It's simple to make but solid as you'll ever need.

Bob S.

Can't believe this is still on Bernie Hunts web site but it is:

http://huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm

This is one I made from a design in FWW magazine. Mine is still in use in
my shop and has withstood the test of time an abuse. I added a Lee Valley
end vice.
It's simple to make but solid as you'll ever need.
Bob S.


Dead links ?

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 6:34:54 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 7:10:11 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take
off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

sounds reasonable
do you want a trough in the middle for tools and such
paul sellers recommends that

maybe not for an assembly table



Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type
top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

maybe think of screws in this case like praying
it might not hurt to add screws

would not make it the way he did in the video
would make the top first and the legs and rails last

he did it bass ackwards and made extra work for himself

Who is going to help you lift that top onto the legs?

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable. But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.

On Wed, 15 Nov 2017 19:04:16 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 6:34:54 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 7:10:11 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take
off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

sounds reasonable
do you want a trough in the middle for tools and such
paul sellers recommends that

maybe not for an assembly table



Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type
top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

maybe think of screws in this case like praying
it might not hurt to add screws

would not make it the way he did in the video
would make the top first and the legs and rails last

he did it bass ackwards and made extra work for himself

Who is going to help you lift that top onto the legs?

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable. But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.

About 75lbs. Not too bad.

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 10:04:19 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 6:34:54 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 7:10:11 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 15:53:58 -0800 (PST)
Michael wrote:

Yes, I'm going to try it with 2x4s. Should have said that. I'll take
off 1/8 on one edge to get a flat top.

sounds reasonable
do you want a trough in the middle for tools and such
paul sellers recommends that

maybe not for an assembly table



Do the screws really make any difference to a glued breadboard type
top made of 2x4s? I'm not seeing it.

maybe think of screws in this case like praying
it might not hurt to add screws

would not make it the way he did in the video
would make the top first and the legs and rails last

he did it bass ackwards and made extra work for himself

Who is going to help you lift that top onto the legs?

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable. But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.

I was replying to the Comet. Since he was was talking about the bench that you linked too,
so was I.

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 10:00:22 PM UTC-6, wrote:

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

Yes, heavier. But VERY expensive. 2' x 6' x 1.75" equals about 24 board feet. $329 divided by 24 equals $13.71 per board foot. I don't know what Cocobolo or Teak cost, but I bet they are pretty close to $13.71 per board foot.

On Wed, 15 Nov 2017 23:01:33 -0500, wrote:



As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

These are pretty nice and quite a bit cheaper.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/pr...964/#/20274961

Other variations are available (or at least were).

On Thu, 16 Nov 2017 09:38:30 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 10:00:22 PM UTC-6, wrote:

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

Yes, heavier. But VERY expensive. 2' x 6' x 1.75" equals about 24 board feet. $329 divided by 24 equals $13.71 per board foot. I don't know what Cocobolo or Teak cost, but I bet they are pretty close to $13.71 per board foot.

The local supplier is asking 45 for Cocobolo and 28 for teak.

wrote:



As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

As are the Grizzly
http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(workbench+AND+top)

On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 10:58:03 PM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
wrote:



As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

As are the Grizzly
http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(workbench+AND+top)

I bought this...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Baltic-...ertop/50437226

...to make this:

https://i.imgur.com/MWJQG06.jpg

(The base is a repurposed hutch)

https://i.imgur.com/XOFNEPG.jpg

wrote in message ...



Can't believe this is still on Bernie Hunts web site but it is:

http://huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm

This is one I made from a design in FWW magazine. Mine is still in use in
my shop and has withstood the test of time an abuse. I added a Lee Valley
end vice.
It's simple to make but solid as you'll ever need.
Bob S.


Dead links ?

You are correct. Well they have been there for a number of years and Bernie
has certainly made changes. I emailed him.

I only checked that the page was still active before posting but did not
click on the links...sorry.

Bob S.

On 11/17/2017 12:37 AM, Bob_S wrote:


wrote in message ...



Can't believe this is still on Bernie Hunts web site but it is:

http://huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm

This is one I made from a design in FWW magazine.Â* Mine is still in
use in
my shop and has withstood the test of time an abuse.Â* I added a Lee
Valley
end vice.
It's simple to make but solid as you'll ever need.
Bob S.


Â*Dead linksÂ* ?

You are correct.Â* Well they have been there for a number of years and
Bernie has certainly made changes.Â*Â* I emailed him.

I only checked that the page was still active before posting but did not
click on the links...sorry.

Bob S.
I did a search on Hunt family work bench and came up with this site. It
appears to be the same as in the previous post

http://www.huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm

--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

wrote:
On Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 10:00:22 PM UTC-6, wrote:

As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable.
But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.


About 75lbs. Not too bad.


These smaller thinner maple slabs are a little heavier :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,41637

John T.

Yes, heavier. But VERY expensive. 2' x 6' x 1.75" equals about 24 board
feet. $329 divided by 24 equals $13.71 per board foot. I don't know
what Cocobolo or Teak cost, but I bet they are pretty close to $13.71 per board foot.


But you are leaving out that this top is a manufactured product, not just
raw wood.

On 11/13/2017 3:37 PM, Michael wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I822PC9kW7Y

I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool
stuff in the wintertime.

What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty
good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would
check with the experts.

I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the
butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the
three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but
maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.

I think the whole bench is rather dumb. I guess if you planned on
parking a house, large elephant or full cement truck on the top, it
would be OK, but basically, it's WAY over built for a wood shop, and
really over built for an assembly table.

Right off, I think a top made of construction grade 2x6's, edge glued is
more than enough. I have no clue why anyone other than an elephant
mechanic would need a 2x6 face glued top? Don't forget space for a wood
vice or two. Might be a good idea to get the vice first, and build the
top to suit the vice.

Second, I don't like benches with open middles. Much better to fill it
with drawers which give you a place to store stuff, other than on the
top. You know, a place for everything and everything in it's place.

Simple 2x4 construction is more than any wood shop should need.

The very first thing I built when I built my shop was the work bench. I
made the top from 2x4's ripped into 2x2's because I wanted a butcher
block look. I never did that again, I would now simply use 2x6's edge
glued. I figured the top could easily be replaced if it got too banged
up, being cheap fir and all that. I never replaced or even
refinished it. It has almost 50 years of heavy use and abuse, and I
wouldn't replace it for anything, it's my shop history and sentimental
to me. It does look better as Butcher block, but that's not needed and
the way I did it was a LOT of work.

I built all the drawers and made them too small for the case, thinking I
didn't want them to swell and jam, because that's what happened to an
old bench my Dad had. Damn drawers would stick in the summer. I learned
now how to better fit drawers. These have a little sloppy fit. I would
not have my main bench w/o drawers. All my tool benches have drawers
and or cabinets. Do it that way the first time if you are a wood
worker, you'll thank yourself later.

Here are a couple of pictures of my bench after about 40 some years of
abuse. I could build it a bit better now, but it is solid as the day I
made it, and it taught me a lot about case work.

http://jbstein.com/Flick/bench03.JPG
http://jbstein.com/Flick/bench04.JPG

I'll say this again, you need a place for everything, and everything
will get put away, and not get lost. Build drawers, drawers and more
drawers. Divide the drawers up so things have their own place in the
drawers.

Oh, make the height the same as your TS top so wood can be supported,
always a good idea.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On Saturday, November 18, 2017 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

but basically, it's WAY over built for a wood shop,

Right off, I think a top made of construction grade 2x6's, edge glued is
more than enough. I have no clue why anyone other than an elephant
mechanic would need a 2x6 face glued top?


I suppose it depends on what kind of woodworking you do. If you use the bench as a table to hold up wood you are cutting, gouging, sanding with a power tool, then its strength isn't too important. A kitchen table with a vise bolted to it would be plenty. Sawhorses with a sheet of plywood on top would be adequate too. I can imagine an edge glued top of 2x6s would be about like a trampoline if you tried to chop mortises in a table leg. The wood would bounce a foot into the air via your edge glued 2x6s. Whereas face glued 2x6s would have the mass to absorb mortise chopping.



Oh, make the height the same as your TS top so wood can be supported,
always a good idea.


I hear this comment many times. My table saw top and workbench top are several inches different in height. They are also about 15 feet apart. Table saw in one half of the basement and workbench in the other half. Both are much too heavy to drag close to each other to allow the bench to serve as an outfeed. I suppose people who have moveable and portable benches and saws could make them the same height. Those of us with heavy, permanent, sizable benches and table saw setups, don't concern ourselves with having them the same height.