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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
Pictorial:
https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 11:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Nope, glue is stronger than nails in this case, you should be fine. How you hang it is another issue. You definetly want to hit studs. -- Jeff --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 12:58 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/16/2017 11:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Nope, glue is stronger than nails in this case, you should be fine. How you hang it is another issue. You definetly want to hit studs. Just to be sure I've been clear, every joint in this project is end-grain to long-grain. It may be easier to see he https://flic.kr/p/R6Qae4 Are glued end-grain to long-grain joints strong enough? And yes, it will definitely be attached to studs. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
Greg Guarino writes:
On 1/16/2017 12:58 PM, woodchucker wrote: Nope, glue is stronger than nails in this case, you should be fine. How you hang it is another issue. You definetly want to hit studs. Just to be sure I've been clear, every joint in this project is end-grain to long-grain. It may be easier to see he https://flic.kr/p/R6Qae4 Are glued end-grain to long-grain joints strong enough? And yes, it will definitely be attached to studs. I wouldn't put any significant weight on a end-grain to long-grain joint. However, if they're in a dado or rebate, then you should be ok assuming the dado/rebate is deep enough (e.g. 3/8" deep in 4/4S4S stock), where you'll get long-grain to long-grain. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500
Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind what downside is there to adding some screws |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:26:18 -0500, Greg Guarino
wrote: On 1/16/2017 12:58 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 1/16/2017 11:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Nope, glue is stronger than nails in this case, you should be fine. How you hang it is another issue. You definetly want to hit studs. Just to be sure I've been clear, every joint in this project is end-grain to long-grain. It may be easier to see he https://flic.kr/p/R6Qae4 Are glued end-grain to long-grain joints strong enough? And yes, it will definitely be attached to studs. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus If you want "belt and suspenders" fasten a cleat to the wall and set the shelf on the cleat. That will handle the back of the shelf unit. Or use shelf btackets screwed to the wall to support the unit. But that's "belt and suspenders" Properly glued, what you have built should be just fine |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 3:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500 Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind what downside is there to adding some screws Only esthetic. I'd like to find screws with this style (and color) head: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Connectin...l13=&veh= sem But of course in a wood screw. Ive seen something like it at HD, but in nickel or brass, and at $1 per screw. I don't know what to call that style of head. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 3:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500 Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind what downside is there to adding some screws Only esthetic. I'd like to find screws with this style (and color) head: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Connectin...l13=&veh= sem But of course in a wood screw. Ive seen something like it at HD, but in nickel or brass, and at $1 per screw. I don't know what to call that style of head. About the closest you are likely to find are truss head. Oval head screws can look decent. Me, I'd countersink plain old screws and glue in face grain plugs if I was going to add screws which I wouldn't. However, what I WOULD have done is set the pieces in sliding dovetails; very little harder to make than dados and they will NOT come loose. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 10:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? If you are talking about adding screws to reinforce the joints, NO. Put it down suspended between a couple boards to hold it up off the floor. Stand on it. did it hold up? ;~) But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2017 10:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? If you are talking about adding screws to reinforce the joints, NO. I'm confused then. Haven't I read here on this very forum about the perils of end-grain glue joints? When *are* they bad if not in this application? Put it down suspended between a couple boards to hold it up off the floor. Stand on it. did it hold up? ;~) I don't think I would try that. It might indeed hold, but lets just say that I present a tougher test than most people. But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 4:14 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 3:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500 Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind what downside is there to adding some screws Only esthetic. I'd like to find screws with this style (and color) head: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Connectin...l13=&veh= sem But of course in a wood screw. Ive seen something like it at HD, but in nickel or brass, and at $1 per screw. I don't know what to call that style of head. About the closest you are likely to find are truss head. Oval head screws can look decent. Me, I'd countersink plain old screws and glue in face grain plugs if I was going to add screws which I wouldn't. However, what I WOULD have done is set the pieces in sliding dovetails; very little harder to make than dados and they will NOT come loose. I'm skeptical that they are not much harder than dadoes, with my limited skills and gear anyway. I made the dadoes (and rabbets) with a router and this homemade jig: https://flic.kr/p/QZ5N9A Now *that's* easy. I assume I'd make sliding dovetails with a router also? Assuming so, can't there be problems if the boards are even a little cupped? Wouldn't the depth of the groove vary? I don't have a planer; I'm at the mercy of S4S lumber. Dadoes seem more geometrically forgiving. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 4:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote: On 1/16/2017 10:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? If you are talking about adding screws to reinforce the joints, NO. I'm confused then. Haven't I read here on this very forum about the perils of end-grain glue joints? When *are* they bad if not in this application? Put it down suspended between a couple boards to hold it up off the floor. Stand on it. did it hold up? ;~) I don't think I would try that. It might indeed hold, but lets just say that I present a tougher test than most people. But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus So yes your dados are 1/4 on 3/4 stock.. less than the 3/8 that I would do, BuTTTTT perfectly fine. your joints look tight, and should easily hold. The nails would be less strong than your joint... You DONE GOOD ENOUGH. -- Jeff --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 3:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote: On 1/16/2017 10:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? If you are talking about adding screws to reinforce the joints, NO. I'm confused then. Haven't I read here on this very forum about the perils of end-grain glue joints? When *are* they bad if not in this application? End to end is not good. ;~) But you have a lot of surface area reinforced with a joint that will protect against being knocked loose from a side hit. Cabinet doors are typically put together with end grain to long grain and reinforced with a joint. And you have approximately 1.5 square inches of glued surface area for every inch deep your joint runs. If your cabinet is 8" deep you have 12 square inches of glue surface area for each joint and you have 4 on the top and 4 on bottom all working together. Again if 8" deep, that would be 96 square inches of glue surface. And if you ad a back that would help lock everything together. Put it down suspended between a couple boards to hold it up off the floor. Stand on it. did it hold up? ;~) I don't think I would try that. It might indeed hold, but lets just say that I present a tougher test than most people. Me too. ;~) https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. Not a problem, use a washer head Pocket hole screw. Go just deep enough to hide the screw and cover it with a plug. TEST fit on scraps. And remember, what you have now is probably going to be fine, the screws do not, in this case, need a lot of wood under the head. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 15:48:07 -0500
Greg Guarino wrote: But of course in a wood screw. Ive seen something like it at HD, but in nickel or brass, and at $1 per screw. I don't know what to call that style of head. http://www.harborfreight.com/96-piec...set-67680.html you could just paint the heads or use a brown marker i think there are even dye markers used by metal workers that come in different colors |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 4:14 PM, dadiOH wrote: "Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 3:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500 Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind what downside is there to adding some screws Only esthetic. I'd like to find screws with this style (and color) head: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Connectin...l13=&veh= sem But of course in a wood screw. Ive seen something like it at HD, but in nickel or brass, and at $1 per screw. I don't know what to call that style of head. About the closest you are likely to find are truss head. Oval head screws can look decent. Me, I'd countersink plain old screws and glue in face grain plugs if I was going to add screws which I wouldn't. However, what I WOULD have done is set the pieces in sliding dovetails; very little harder to make than dados and they will NOT come loose. I'm skeptical that they are not much harder than dadoes, with my limited skills and gear anyway. I made the dadoes (and rabbets) with a router and this homemade jig: https://flic.kr/p/QZ5N9A Now *that's* easy. I assume I'd make sliding dovetails with a router also? Assuming so, can't there be problems if the boards are even a little cupped? Wouldn't the depth of the groove vary? I don't have a planer; I'm at the mercy of S4S lumber. Dadoes seem more geometrically forgiving. Your jig would make the slots. You would need a way to route the board edges for the pins. No reason S4S wouldn't be fine. A cupped board would be no more a problem than it is with dados. In both cases, the board needs to be forced into submission when assembling. If the board refuses. making the pins a wee bit narrower takes care of that problem, the glue takes care of the slight slop from narrower pins. Sliding dovetails are your friends. Embrace them |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote: But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. That's enough for plugs but if you think not and want to reinforce in a sorta decorative way, use dowels. And strength from dowels is greatly increased of they are inserted at angles. Same for nails and screws. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:26:18 -0500, Greg Guarino
wrote: On 1/16/2017 12:58 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 1/16/2017 11:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: Pictorial: https://flic.kr/p/PNUxit It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be seen he https://flic.kr/p/R48Du6 And there's the rub. I'm still just a weekend hobbyist and I had not considered that the joints would involve end grain when I designed the piece. I only thought about it as I was applying the glue. The unit consists of about 18 feet of solid red oak 1x12. One of those online calculators tells me that's about 30 pounds, unloaded. There won't be books in (and on) these shelves, mostly percussion instruments including some hand drums. Still, I can imagine it weighing 60-80 lbs. in use. The top of the unit will be about six feet off the ground. I figure that means that only people over 6'3" will ever see it. Even the bottom will be largely obscured by speakers and a pair of computer monitors. So it wouldn't be a disaster to add a couple of screws to each joint, maybe those flat power-head socket type. Any advice about whether or not I need screws, and if so where I can get some that are reasonably decorative? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Nope, glue is stronger than nails in this case, you should be fine. How you hang it is another issue. You definetly want to hit studs. Just to be sure I've been clear, every joint in this project is end-grain to long-grain. It may be easier to see he https://flic.kr/p/R6Qae4 Are glued end-grain to long-grain joints strong enough? And yes, it will definitely be attached to studs. It doesn't look like end to long-grain joints to me. It looks like there are shallow dados, no? I would have made the dados a little deeper (than what I see) but the weight is being held by the dado edges, not the glue. The glue is still holding edge-grain to (dado) edge-grain. Again, I would have made them a little deeper. BTW, looks nice! |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 12:08:21 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:43:17 -0500 Greg Guarino wrote: It's a shelf/cubbyhole unit, intended to hang from the wall. It's six feet long and a little over 11" deep. The material is red oak. All the joints are dadoed or rabbeted (1/4" deep) and glued, as can be why not add some screws for peace of mind Screws into end grain? what downside is there to adding some screws Because they're ugly and don't do anything. Pocket screws, maybe, but that ship's sailed. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
Electric Comet wrote in
news *snip* i think there are even dye markers used by metal workers that come in different colors A lot of metalworkers just use Sharpies. It works great for things like sharpening plane irons and the like when you want to see where the stone is cutting. I went with the Magnum size rather than the medium tip, but you don't necessarily have to go that large. I'm just tired of coloring in the edge of the tool. Puckdropper -- http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst! |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On 1/16/2017 7:11 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote: But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. That's enough for plugs but if you think not and want to reinforce in a sorta decorative way, use dowels. And strength from dowels is greatly increased of they are inserted at angles. Same for nails and screws. I considered dowels. That would certainly be easy. I'm becoming convinced that perhaps none of this is necessary though. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Does this need screws?
On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 3:33:30 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/16/2017 7:11 PM, dadiOH wrote: "Greg Guarino" wrote in message news On 1/16/2017 4:23 PM, Leon wrote: But if you feel compelled, counter sink them and plug with oak plugs and sand smooth. With the dadoes, there's only 1/2" of "meat" there. That's enough for plugs but if you think not and want to reinforce in a sorta decorative way, use dowels. And strength from dowels is greatly increased of they are inserted at angles. Same for nails and screws. I considered dowels. That would certainly be easy. I'm becoming convinced that perhaps none of this is necessary though. It's necessary if it will stop you from constantly worrying about whether the item will fail or not. It's known as Peace Of Mind and not something to be taken lightly. |
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