I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

I have had no problems with except one.

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start to
move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and HIghland
Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just
behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a better
way.

Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic

--
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
don't

On 2/16/2014 10:35 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

I have had no problems with except one.

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having
a helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start
to move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and
HIghland Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just
behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a
better way.

Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic


12" riser? not 6"

anyway, a 1/8 blade is a touchy blade. I use a carter guide for
scrolling. This is not a blade that you use for long straight cuts, it
needs support and it needs the guides setup perfectly if you are using
guides. I don't use guides with the 1/8, just the single thrust bearing
behind the blade which has a groove in it...

If you are talking tracking on the wheel itself, well that's a result of
a tuned saw. you must have a coplanar set of wheels, you must have a
crowned wheel, and you must set the guides correctly as above. Coplanar
is the most important 1st step.

--
Jeff

"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
On 2/16/2014 10:35 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

I have had no problems with except one.

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having
a helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start
to move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and
HIghland Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just
behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a
better way.

Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic


12" riser? not 6"

anyway, a 1/8 blade is a touchy blade. I use a carter guide for scrolling.
This is not a blade that you use for long straight cuts, it needs support
and it needs the guides setup perfectly if you are using guides. I don't
use guides with the 1/8, just the single thrust bearing behind the blade
which has a groove in it...

If you are talking tracking on the wheel itself, well that's a result of a
tuned saw. you must have a coplanar set of wheels, you must have a crowned
wheel, and you must set the guides correctly as above. Coplanar is the
most important 1st step.

--
Jeff

Yes - 6".

I am using the Carter guide. The cut quality is fine - just that the blade
will come off the crown of the wheel and move rapidly forward or back. I can
check again but the wheels are coplanar. I've used 3/16, 1/4, 1/2 blades
with no problem with tracking - just this 1/8" that's giving me fits. I'll
take it off and rechec the wheels and then reinstall. Perhaps I didn't get
it right on the crown of both top/bottom wheels.

Vic

On 2/16/2014 11:33 PM, Vic Baron wrote:


"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
On 2/16/2014 10:35 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

I have had no problems with except one.

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having
a helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start
to move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and
HIghland Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just
behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a
better way.

Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic


12" riser? not 6"

anyway, a 1/8 blade is a touchy blade. I use a carter guide for
scrolling. This is not a blade that you use for long straight cuts, it
needs support and it needs the guides setup perfectly if you are using
guides. I don't use guides with the 1/8, just the single thrust
bearing behind the blade which has a groove in it...

If you are talking tracking on the wheel itself, well that's a result
of a tuned saw. you must have a coplanar set of wheels, you must have
a crowned wheel, and you must set the guides correctly as above.
Coplanar is the most important 1st step.

--
Jeff

Yes - 6".

I am using the Carter guide. The cut quality is fine - just that the
blade will come off the crown of the wheel and move rapidly forward or
back. I can check again but the wheels are coplanar. I've used 3/16,
1/4, 1/2 blades with no problem with tracking - just this 1/8" that's
giving me fits. I'll take it off and rechec the wheels and then
reinstall. Perhaps I didn't get it right on the crown of both top/bottom
wheels.

Vic

You should not have to do much to get it on the crown, the blade should
tend to find the crown on it's own if its coplanar, but because it's a
thinner blade the teeth are a bigger part of the blade, and therefore
cause more problems in getting it centered. Also make sure your wheels
are dead true, any out of true wobble will cause issues. 1/8 is a
touchier blade.

--
Jeff

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start to
move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and HIghland
Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is stretching
as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after cutting for a
while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.

John

On 2/17/2014 7:20 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm
having a helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will
start to move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen
and HIghland Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is
stretching as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after
cutting for a while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.

John

Doh.. yea

--
Jeff

On 2/17/2014 6:20 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm
having a helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will
start to move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen
and HIghland Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is
stretching as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after
cutting for a while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.

John

Agreed with the stretching/expanding with heat. Once it expands the
tracking will change. Try letting it cool and see of the blade returns
to normal.

I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

Typo ... I think you meant 6" riser.


I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

Check out this excellent video of Alex Snodgrass -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

It's worth viewing the entire presentation.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is
stretching as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after
cutting for a while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.

John

Agreed with the stretching/expanding with heat. Once it expands the
tracking will change. Try letting it cool and see of the blade returns to
normal.

Yes, expanding is probably the better word here...

John

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start to
move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and HIghland
Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.

Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is
stretching as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after
cutting for a while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.

John
The "AHA" moment! I think you hit the nail on the head!

Vic

wrote in message
...

I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.

Typo ... I think you meant 6" riser.


I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having
a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.

Check out this excellent video of Alex Snodgrass -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

It's worth viewing the entire presentation.

That's great! Learned a few more things.

Reading is one thing but seeing makes a lot more sense.

Thanx!

Vic

On Sunday, February 16, 2014 10:35:25 PM UTC-5, Vic Baron wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.



I have had no problems with except one.



I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a

helluva time keeping the blade tracking.



I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start to

move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and HIghland

Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.



I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just

behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a better

way.



Any ideas?



Thanx,



Vic



--

There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who

don't

Vic,

I think you've already gotten some good input from others. When I first read of your problem, I wondered if there was a practical limit to how small the blade could be for a certain radius of curvature of the wheel camber. Perhaps 1/8" is too small for the camber on that model of wheel. Still, I like the thermal expansion explanation better.

I have the same bandsaw with the same riser block. I have long suspected the stock spring (probably from reading this group)as being inadequate. I'd like to hear more about your experience with the Iturra spring.

Thanks,

Bill

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 10:35:25 PM UTC-5, Vic Baron wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.



I have had no problems with except one.



I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having
a

helluva time keeping the blade tracking.



I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start
to

move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and
HIghland

Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.



I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just

behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a better

way.



Any ideas?



Thanx,



Vic



--

There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who

don't

Vic,

I think you've already gotten some good input from others. When I first
read of your problem, I wondered if there was a practical limit to how
small the blade could be for a certain radius of curvature of the wheel
camber. Perhaps 1/8" is too small for the camber on that model of wheel.
Still, I like the thermal expansion explanation better.

I have the same bandsaw with the same riser block. I have long suspected
the stock spring (probably from reading this group)as being inadequate.
I'd like to hear more about your experience with the Iturra spring.

Thanks,

Bill

Hey Bill - When I first purchased the G0555 I git a lot of recommendations
from folks here to get the Iturra spring. Basically I've had no problems
with it. It is firmer than the stock spring so you don't have to crank as
much to tension the blade. I was also able to get a 3/4" Wood Slicer on that
saw and tension it properly. I could not have done that with the stock
spring. I've had it for several years and it appears to be just as strong as
ever so I'm assuming the other feature about holding it's strength holds
true.

The 1/8" blade is tracking fine now but I am more aware of the thermal
expansion. I have no issues with a 3/16" blade but the 1/8 seems to be
really touchy.

Decided to get a small 10" Rikon bandsaw also. Swapping blades during a
project can be a pita so I'll set one up for resaw and the other for any
scroll type stuff.

Vic