About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of this
group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type cuts
so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade centered on
my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it rolls off the
tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions would
be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type
cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Narrow blades require a closer tolerance for wheels being coplanar.
So that's the first thing I would check.
Make sure there isn't a "high" spot (ridge) on the tires.
*If* the blade is "rolling" off the tires toward one side (front or back)
consistently, you should be able to adjust the angle of the top wheel to
correct that .
There will likely be a "groove" (not literally) where the blade wants to
ride; find that "groove". It will take some trial and error. (Ideally it
will be in the center of the tires; but not always)
You should be able to find a "groove" where the blade will ride well (with
the guides backed off)
Once the blade rides consistently, adjust the guides accordingly.

JM2C.

Max

Coplanar would be my guess. Forget the rest of what he said. All wheels
have a high spot. That is how the blade finds its equillibrium.
remove the table and stick a straight edge on the wheels, Adjust so that
they are both planar. Shim it, or move the arm if necessary. I had to on
my crappy USA made delta... I had to remove the pin to get it coplanar.
But once I got my saw sorted out it works well.


On 2/14/2011 9:29 PM, Max wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I
have been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by
members of this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost
scroll saw type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can
keep the blade centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next
thing I know, it rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Narrow blades require a closer tolerance for wheels being coplanar.
So that's the first thing I would check.
Make sure there isn't a "high" spot (ridge) on the tires.
*If* the blade is "rolling" off the tires toward one side (front or
back) consistently, you should be able to adjust the angle of the top
wheel to correct that .
There will likely be a "groove" (not literally) where the blade wants to
ride; find that "groove". It will take some trial and error. (Ideally it
will be in the center of the tires; but not always)
You should be able to find a "groove" where the blade will ride well
(with the guides backed off)
Once the blade rides consistently, adjust the guides accordingly.

JM2C.

Max

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:06:59 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of this
group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type cuts
so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade centered on
my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it rolls off the
tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions would
be greatly appreciated.

The only questions I can think of are
"Are you getting the smaller blade too hot so it expands/falls off?"

and

"How's the tension?"

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:06:59 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of this
group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type cuts
so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade centered on
my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it rolls off the
tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions would
be greatly appreciated.

Third question: Did you adjust the thrust bearings properly? They'll
need to be moved forward for the narrower blade.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

I'd ask: can you get the blade to run okay when not cutting, or does it
run off even then?
If it only runs off when cutting, I'd second the post about the
thrust bearings. I have a smaller band saw, but hopefully similar in
design. The thrust bearings are the disk-type bearings that the blade
pushes against when it is under load. There are two of them; one on
the upper adjustable guide and one under the table. With thin blades,
even a slight misalignment between the upper and lower
thrust bearings can put a kink in the blade that can force it off a
tire. I even use 1/8" blades on my saw with success. I slow the saw
down to about 150 sfm and cut 1/8" steel sheet with it and have no
trouble.
If nothing else works, one might get another blade, on the theory
that this blade has a problem.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------

Dick Snyder wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of this
group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type cuts
so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade centered on
my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it rolls off the
tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions would
be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
I'd ask: can you get the blade to run okay when not cutting, or does it
run off even then?
If it only runs off when cutting, I'd second the post about the thrust
bearings. I have a smaller band saw, but hopefully similar in design. The
thrust bearings are the disk-type bearings that the blade pushes against
when it is under load. There are two of them; one on the upper
adjustable guide and one under the table. With thin blades, even a slight
misalignment between the upper and lower
thrust bearings can put a kink in the blade that can force it off a tire.
I even use 1/8" blades on my saw with success. I slow the saw down to
about 150 sfm and cut 1/8" steel sheet with it and have no trouble.
If nothing else works, one might get another blade, on the theory that
this blade has a problem.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------

Dick Snyder wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw
type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I backed off the guides completey. By adjusting the angle of the top tire I
got the blade going good. When I started to add tension, that is when things
went bad quickly.

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
I'd ask: can you get the blade to run okay when not cutting, or does it
run off even then?
If it only runs off when cutting, I'd second the post about the thrust
bearings. I have a smaller band saw, but hopefully similar in design. The
thrust bearings are the disk-type bearings that the blade pushes against
when it is under load. There are two of them; one on the upper
adjustable guide and one under the table. With thin blades, even a slight
misalignment between the upper and lower
thrust bearings can put a kink in the blade that can force it off a tire.
I even use 1/8" blades on my saw with success. I slow the saw down to
about 150 sfm and cut 1/8" steel sheet with it and have no trouble.
If nothing else works, one might get another blade, on the theory that
this blade has a problem.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------

Dick Snyder wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw
type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I forgot to mention that when I first set up the saw I check that the wheels
were co-planar and they were perfect.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
I'd ask: can you get the blade to run okay when not cutting, or does it
run off even then?
If it only runs off when cutting, I'd second the post about the thrust
bearings. I have a smaller band saw, but hopefully similar in design. The
thrust bearings are the disk-type bearings that the blade pushes against
when it is under load. There are two of them; one on the upper
adjustable guide and one under the table. With thin blades, even a
slight misalignment between the upper and lower
thrust bearings can put a kink in the blade that can force it off a tire.
I even use 1/8" blades on my saw with success. I slow the saw down to
about 150 sfm and cut 1/8" steel sheet with it and have no trouble.
If nothing else works, one might get another blade, on the theory that
this blade has a problem.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------

Dick Snyder wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I
have been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by
members of this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost
scroll saw type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can
keep the blade centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next
thing I know, it rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I backed off the guides completey. By adjusting the angle of the top tire
I got the blade going good. When I started to add tension, that is when
things went bad quickly.

Less robustly built band saws will "bend/give" somewhere when tension is
applied, The more finicky the blade the more exaggerated the problem will
be. I would suggest that you adjust tension first and then adjust the top
wheel tilt to keep the blade centered. When you add tension you are pulling
things out of alignment again. With the more ridged band saws this is
typically not a concern.

Then again some bandsaws simply are a PIA with certain sized blades.

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 06:04:24 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw
type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I backed off the guides completey. By adjusting the angle of the top tire I
got the blade going good. When I started to add tension, that is when things
went bad quickly.

You're aware that the narrower blade requires far less tension than
the half-incher, right? If you have one of the flip-it types of
tensioners, that might not be immediately remembered. The tension
scale is just a guide. Narrower blades usually take less tension than
indicated. They're also much more finicky to adjust, and to keep in
adjustment.

Once you get the blade running true, adjust up the thrust bearing and
guides. Now add a bit of tension and retrue. Rinse & repeat.

Looking at one of their manuals, I see that they mention this
phenomenon http://cdn3.grizzly.com/manuals/g0580_m.pdf
"NOTICE: Changes in the blade tension may change the blade tracking."

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

Had the same problem with a 1/4" blade, turned out to be the weld. Sent the
blade back, they replaced it with a properly welded one no problems. The
weld was only slightly off, couldn't see it untill I layed it on my TS, but
it was enough.
Joe
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw type
cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know, it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Leon" wrote in message
Less robustly built band saws will "bend/give" somewhere when tension is
applied, The more finicky the blade the more exaggerated the problem
will be. I would suggest that you adjust tension first and then adjust
the top wheel tilt to keep the blade centered. When you add tension you
are pulling things out of alignment again. With the more ridged band saws
this is typically not a concern.

I don't own a band saw, but I did read an article not too long ago, that
suggested different sized blades crown differently based on the type of tire
that's being used. It stated that when one is having tracking problems that
increasing or perhaps reducing the crown on a tire can help with such a
problem.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 06:04:24 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I
have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw
type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the
blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know,
it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I backed off the guides completey. By adjusting the angle of the top tire
I
got the blade going good. When I started to add tension, that is when
things
went bad quickly.

You're aware that the narrower blade requires far less tension than
the half-incher, right? If you have one of the flip-it types of
tensioners, that might not be immediately remembered. The tension
scale is just a guide. Narrower blades usually take less tension than
indicated. They're also much more finicky to adjust, and to keep in
adjustment.

Once you get the blade running true, adjust up the thrust bearing and
guides. Now add a bit of tension and retrue. Rinse & repeat.

Looking at one of their manuals, I see that they mention this
phenomenon http://cdn3.grizzly.com/manuals/g0580_m.pdf
"NOTICE: Changes in the blade tension may change the blade tracking."
I do not have a flip it up tensioner but the screw it down until it is good
enough. The rule of thumb I was working with was if you can tap on the blade
it shouldn't deflect more than about an 1/8" of an inch

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 17:12:01 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 06:04:24 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

About 18 months ago I bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. Until recently I
have
been very happy using a 1/2" Woodslicer recommended to me by members of
this group. I have a project that involves a lot of almost scroll saw
type cuts so I bought a 3/16" blade. I am darned if I can keep the
blade
centered on my tires. Just when I think I have it, next thing I know,
it
rolls off the tires and I have to start all over again.

I'm sure I am making some kind of dumb newbie mistake. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Dick Snyder
I backed off the guides completey. By adjusting the angle of the top tire
I
got the blade going good. When I started to add tension, that is when
things
went bad quickly.

You're aware that the narrower blade requires far less tension than
the half-incher, right? If you have one of the flip-it types of
tensioners, that might not be immediately remembered. The tension
scale is just a guide. Narrower blades usually take less tension than
indicated. They're also much more finicky to adjust, and to keep in
adjustment.

Once you get the blade running true, adjust up the thrust bearing and
guides. Now add a bit of tension and retrue. Rinse & repeat.

Looking at one of their manuals, I see that they mention this
phenomenon http://cdn3.grizzly.com/manuals/g0580_m.pdf
"NOTICE: Changes in the blade tension may change the blade tracking."
I do not have a flip it up tensioner but the screw it down until it is good
enough. The rule of thumb I was working with was if you can tap on the blade
it shouldn't deflect more than about an 1/8" of an inch

Check on the flutter method as described by Manual.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
Less robustly built band saws will "bend/give" somewhere when tension is
applied, The more finicky the blade the more exaggerated the problem
will be. I would suggest that you adjust tension first and then adjust
the top wheel tilt to keep the blade centered. When you add tension you
are pulling things out of alignment again. With the more ridged band
saws this is typically not a concern.

I don't own a band saw, but I did read an article not too long ago, that
suggested different sized blades crown differently based on the type of
tire that's being used. It stated that when one is having tracking
problems that increasing or perhaps reducing the crown on a tire can help
with such a problem.


That can help however reducing the crown for one blade may create a problem
on another. My Laguna tire has just a slight crown and I have no tracking
problems with any of my blades. Further I cannot remember the last time I
adjusted the top wheel tilt for any blade changes.

If the upper end of the BS flexes when tensioned to any degree the tilt of
the top wheel will change. The more ridged the saw the less likely that the
top end will flex when tension is added. If your saw flexes, and you can
not see that, you generally have more luck adjusting the tracking/top wheel
tilt after tensioning the blade.

IMHO most band saws sold today compare to a bench top TS vs. a cabinet TS.
Basically I feel to get a new BS that will not need constant adjustments you
need to spend a little more than a good quality cabinet saw. Now if you can
get your hands on an older Delta that would be another matter.