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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the
blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to shop. Jeff |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
j wrote:
I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? One that's sharp that you already own? Why do you want to use thin-kerf blade to rip 2-by stock (just asking)? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to shop. Jeff |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A 40T is too many for RIP. see if they have around 20 teeth in rip config... not (atb).. Something like http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu87r008.html with 22t flat grind w a 20degree hook... seems about right for ripping. -- Jeff |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 19:26:48 -0500, j wrote:
I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to shop. It's not thin kerf, but I really like the Freud Glue Line rip blade. I got mine at Woodcraft in Alpharetta but I think all four WW stores in the area carry them. I don't trust thin kerf but I'm not using it on a stump maker, either. ;-) |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 7:56 PM, Bill wrote:
j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? One that's sharp that you already own? Why do you want to use thin-kerf blade to rip 2-by stock (just asking)? Well, I'm no expert, so may reasons may seem a little dumb... 1) They seem to cut faster and cleaner. 2) Less sawdust. 3) More slices out of a 2 by. Not that white pine is expensive, but finding good white pine to rip into 1/2" slices is hard. I've gone to 2x6's because it seems like they make them out of better stock. Cheers, Jeff I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to shop. Jeff |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:41:47 -0500, j wrote:
On 12/3/2013 7:56 PM, Bill wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? One that's sharp that you already own? Why do you want to use thin-kerf blade to rip 2-by stock (just asking)? Well, I'm no expert, so may reasons may seem a little dumb... 1) They seem to cut faster and cleaner. With an under-powered saw, faster, sure. Cleaner? 2) Less sawdust. Not usually real concern. You're not resawing, are you? ;-) 3) More slices out of a 2 by. Not that white pine is expensive, but finding good white pine to rip into 1/2" slices is hard. I've gone to 2x6's because it seems like they make them out of better stock. I guess you are! ;-) You need a bandsaw. Woodcraft has a nice Laguna bandsaw, too. ;-) |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
"j" wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? ----------------------------------------------------- My guess is the difference in price between an 8" and a 10" blade gets lost in the wash so might want to take another look at 10" blades. Talk to the professor (Leon) about thin kerf blades. I want nothing to do with them but that's me. My choice for your application would be a 10", 24T, carbide tooth, Freud rip blade. I got a lot of use from mine. BTW, a little tip. If you want to increase your yield, start with the widest stock available. I'd start with 2x12 and rip it into two equal pieces, then do the final rips. As part of building boat mold, ripped 2" x 12" x 24 ft timbers into 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft strips to form battens. Estimate that at least a mile of rip cuts a dumpster full of saw dust were formed that Saturday. Started with a B&D, 10" Diablo but quickly switched to the Freud. Have fun. Lew |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades. For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial. And I've got some limited understanding of hook, which I never knew existed. Apparently too much hook is not good on a Radial arm, although I don't quite understand why. Roughly I think it is because it pulls the wood up on a radial arm. I've found myself always using a finger board when I rip so this may be the "counter" for the blade I use. I see that recommended cutting thickness varies, and it is different for this combination blade for crosscut and for rip. I don't understand this, but I think it has to do with the number of teeth, that certainly affects the minimum thickness, and I suppose the maximum also. I'm leaning toward the LU83R00 partly because I do cross cut also, and perhaps because it looks like a bad boy! Thanks to all. Cheers, Jeff |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/03/2013 08:31 PM, j wrote:
On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades. For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial. And I've got some limited understanding of hook, which I never knew existed. Apparently too much hook is not good on a Radial arm, although I don't quite understand why. Roughly I think it is because it pulls the wood up on a radial arm. I've found myself always using a finger board when I rip so this may be the "counter" for the blade I use. It doesn't pull the wood up, but tends to make the motor want to climb toward the operator more than a negative hook. This all assumes you are using the correct RAS procedure and pulling the motor through the cut and not pushing the motor back to cut as with a SCMS. I see that recommended cutting thickness varies, and it is different for this combination blade for crosscut and for rip. I don't understand this, but I think it has to do with the number of teeth, that certainly affects the minimum thickness, and I suppose the maximum also. I'm leaning toward the LU83R00 partly because I do cross cut also, and perhaps because it looks like a bad boy! Thanks to all. Cheers, Jeff -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 22:31:09 -0500, j wrote:
On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades. For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial. Well, you did say that you were on a budget. Otherwise the recommendation would probably be Forrest or Ridge. ;-) And I've got some limited understanding of hook, which I never knew existed. Apparently too much hook is not good on a Radial arm, although I don't quite understand why. Roughly I think it is because it pulls the wood up on a radial arm. I've found myself always using a finger board when I rip so this may be the "counter" for the blade I use. Not really. If the board gets "pulled up", it will also tend to get launched out the other end. This can suck your front hand back into the blade. I see that recommended cutting thickness varies, and it is different for this combination blade for crosscut and for rip. I don't understand this, but I think it has to do with the number of teeth, that certainly affects the minimum thickness, and I suppose the maximum also. I'm leaning toward the LU83R00 partly because I do cross cut also, and perhaps because it looks like a bad boy! Not everyone agrees but I use different blades. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 10:47 PM, wrote: On Tue, 03 Dec 2013
22:31:09 -0500, j wrote: On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades. For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial. Well, you did say that you were on a budget. Otherwise the recommendation would probably be Forrest or Ridge. ;-) Yes, I figured I was getting the best of the "bottom end". It's good enough for me. I'd rather spend the blade money toward a change of equipment. I'm thinking of a mid range table saw and a compound sliding miter saw. Theoretically the radial arm can do compound angled cuts, but the set up is difficult and takes a lot of tweaking, at least it does on my stump maker. I built my euro style (not face frame) kitchen cabinets with a battery operated 5" skilsaw and a straightedge. Cheers, Jeff |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 9:41 PM, j wrote:
On 12/3/2013 7:56 PM, Bill wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? One that's sharp that you already own? Why do you want to use thin-kerf blade to rip 2-by stock (just asking)? Well, I'm no expert, so may reasons may seem a little dumb... 1) They seem to cut faster and cleaner. 2) Less sawdust. 3) More slices out of a 2 by. Not that white pine is expensive, but finding good white pine to rip into 1/2" slices is hard. I've gone to 2x6's because it seems like they make them out of better stock. Cheers, Jeff I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to shop. Jeff I think the 2x10 and 2x12 are cleaner than the 2x6 Most of what I see in those sizes are very clean. -- Jeff |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
wrote:
It's not thin kerf, but I really like the Freud Glue Line rip blade. Ditto. Had to rip 24lf of 3" oak squares last week and a Freud Glue Line Rip cut it like buttah. As always, choosing the right tool for the job is not only easier, faster and more efficient, but generally much safer. -- www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile) |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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8" blade recommendation
On 12/3/2013 8:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote: j wrote: I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm. I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like the narrow kerf. What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a number of places to s Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn: http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu83r0...FS4aOgodDBsA0A 40T is too many for RIP. see if they have around 20 teeth in rip config... not (atb).. Something like http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu87r008.html with 22t flat grind w a 20degree hook... seems about right for ripping. I took yours and Lew's advice and ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010.../dp/B0000225UH Too cheap not to. Going for the 10 seemed the right thing to do as the prices were almost identical. Thanks, Jeff |
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