IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock
for one wrench blade changes? I am looking to get a saw with a riving
knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.

Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when
tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack
will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in contact
with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the wrench
on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am
concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble
keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.

And or can you still use 2 wrenches.

Thanks

On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide into a groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench the outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


--
Jeff

On 3/1/2013 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide
into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench
the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


The SawStop is pulling ahead in the hunt, specifically I think the one
you mentioned.
Wanna buy a Jet JTAS left tilt with 50" rip capacity, mobile base, and
out feed roller?

On 3/2/2013 12:01 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/1/2013 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide
into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench
the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in
contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the
wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


The SawStop is pulling ahead in the hunt, specifically I think the one
you mentioned.
Wanna buy a Jet JTAS left tilt with 50" rip capacity, mobile base, and
out feed roller?




No like you I covet the SawStop.

--
Jeff

On 3/2/2013 2:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/2/2013 12:01 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/1/2013 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide
into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench
the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in
contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the
wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


The SawStop is pulling ahead in the hunt, specifically I think the one
you mentioned.
Wanna buy a Jet JTAS left tilt with 50" rip capacity, mobile base, and
out feed roller?




No like you I covet the SawStop.


Went to look at the SawStop pro and industrial models this morning.

Right now I have a Jet JTAS 10" left tilt cabinet saw with 50" rip capacity.

1. The fence on the SawStop pro fence is nice and smooth but shorter
in length than mine. Additionally it also rides up against the part of
the mounting bracket that mounts to the saw. You have to lift the fence
straight up to remove it from the saw or slide it off the end.
2. The elevation and tilt wheels do not operate as smoothly as the ones
on my saw.
3. I currently have a 15 roller fold down out feed table that mounts
onto the saw cabinet and the saw is on a mobile base. If I move my saw,
the out feed moves too with no legs to fold or relevel. The Sawstop has
a dust port in the same spot where my out feed would mount so that is a
no go unless HTC makes one specifically for this model. I at this point
I would not give up my out feed roller extension. Out feed tables that
have leg supports are way too clumsily for me.

4. The industrial model had size advantages but similar issues for
$1000 more than the pro model, all things being equal.

5. Looking under the hood of both saws is like looking under the hood
of a modern automobile, dark and full up with machinery. Small wonder
why another brand could not be retrofitted.

What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck considering
its safety features. I would find it hard to justify buying a
replacement saw and having to give up features.

What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck considering
its safety features. I would find it hard to justify buying a
replacement saw and having to give up features.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/html/em_13_3_jpsale.html

Klingspores powermatic machines 10% off, didn't check their prices
relative to everyone else.

basilisk

On 3/2/2013 3:57 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2013 2:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/2/2013 12:01 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/1/2013 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor
lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide
into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench
the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in
contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the
wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


The SawStop is pulling ahead in the hunt, specifically I think the one
you mentioned.
Wanna buy a Jet JTAS left tilt with 50" rip capacity, mobile base, and
out feed roller?




No like you I covet the SawStop.


Went to look at the SawStop pro and industrial models this morning.

Right now I have a Jet JTAS 10" left tilt cabinet saw with 50" rip
capacity.

1. The fence on the SawStop pro fence is nice and smooth but shorter
in length than mine. Additionally it also rides up against the part of
the mounting bracket that mounts to the saw. You have to lift the fence
straight up to remove it from the saw or slide it off the end.
Am curious about this.. will have to look next time.
2. The elevation and tilt wheels do not operate as smoothly as the ones
on my saw.

I wonder if this is from being on the floor a while and some people over
traveling. I have tested this and found it very smooth. You also have to
realize that the saw moves straight up and down, and is gas cartiridge
assisted. So in relation to yours maybe it is less smooth.


3. I currently have a 15 roller fold down out feed table that mounts
onto the saw cabinet and the saw is on a mobile base. If I move my saw,
the out feed moves too with no legs to fold or relevel. The Sawstop has
a dust port in the same spot where my out feed would mount so that is a
no go unless HTC makes one specifically for this model. I at this point
I would not give up my out feed roller extension. Out feed tables that
have leg supports are way too clumsily for me.
Don't know the dustport and roller set. That would not be an issue for
me, as I use an outfeed table.

4. The industrial model had size advantages but similar issues for
$1000 more than the pro model, all things being equal.

5. Looking under the hood of both saws is like looking under the hood
of a modern automobile, dark and full up with machinery. Small wonder
why another brand could not be retrofitted.

What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck considering
its safety features. I would find it hard to justify buying a
replacement saw and having to give up features.
Understood.

For me its the safety feature and a major upgrade when I am ready to
jump. I do consider their quality to be above all others. But that's my
opinion, and obviously you have found less than satisfactory issues.

--
Jeff

On 3/2/2013 7:17 PM, basilisk wrote:



What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck considering
its safety features. I would find it hard to justify buying a
replacement saw and having to give up features.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/html/em_13_3_jpsale.html

Klingspores powermatic machines 10% off, didn't check their prices
relative to everyone else.

basilisk



FWIW Jet and Powermatic are offering 15% off for the next 10 or so days,
any where.

On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 00:01:32 -0600, Leon wrote:

On 3/2/2013 7:17 PM, basilisk wrote:



What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck
considering its safety features. I would find it hard to justify
buying a replacement saw and having to give up features.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/html/em_13_3_jpsale.html

Klingspores powermatic machines 10% off, didn't check their prices
relative to everyone else.

basilisk



FWIW Jet and Powermatic are offering 15% off for the next 10 or so days,
any where.

didn't know...


basilisk

woodchucker wrote:
On 3/2/2013 3:57 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2013 2:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/2/2013 12:01 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/1/2013 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/1/2013 7:24 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, March 1, 2013 6:09:15 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
IIRC you have a PM 2000 TS. If so, does your saw have the arbor
lock

for one wrench blade changes?

Yes. Single wrench. It has a tab on the left side that you slide
into a
groove which locks the arbor.


I am looking to get a saw with a riving

knife and am looking at the 2000 and the SawStop.



Do you have any problems with tightening with a dado set?

I use a Freud dial-a-dado with no major problems. I usually make the
teeth contact slightly on the opposite side. As I tighten the wrench
the
outside blade will spin slightly away from where I made them contact
originally. Seems to work ok. I hope that made sense.




My current saw, a Jet cabinet saw uses two wrenches. Oddly when

tightening if I tighten the right wrench the right side of the stack

will some times spin a bit causing the carbide teeth to come in
contact

with each other, Forrest Dado King. To prevent this I turn the
wrench

on the left side and the situation corrects itself. Odd. I am

concerned that with an arbor lock I might have a bit more trouble

keeping the blades teeth spaced properly.



And or can you still use 2 wrenches.



Thanks

Thank you!

Ok Leon, let me spend your money for you...
Festool... tools
Saw Stop... compliments them in quality and price.
It's simple...
Now if you don't want the saw stop... you can always send it my way.
I'll take the 3hp pro.
And thanks.


The SawStop is pulling ahead in the hunt, specifically I think the one
you mentioned.
Wanna buy a Jet JTAS left tilt with 50" rip capacity, mobile base, and
out feed roller?




No like you I covet the SawStop.


Went to look at the SawStop pro and industrial models this morning.

Right now I have a Jet JTAS 10" left tilt cabinet saw with 50" rip
capacity.

1. The fence on the SawStop pro fence is nice and smooth but shorter
in length than mine. Additionally it also rides up against the part of
the mounting bracket that mounts to the saw. You have to lift the fence
straight up to remove it from the saw or slide it off the end.
Am curious about this.. will have to look next time.
2. The elevation and tilt wheels do not operate as smoothly as the ones
on my saw.

I wonder if this is from being on the floor a while and some people over
traveling. I have tested this and found it very smooth. You also have to
realize that the saw moves straight up and down, and is gas cartiridge
assisted. So in relation to yours maybe it is less smooth.

The thought crossed my mind considering it was a floor model too. But as a
comparison to mine when it was new, you could give the tilt wheel a stiff
spin and the thing would spin half way through its length of travel. That
was amazing.. Today with use and sawdust build up it is still smooth but
will not spin freely as it did when new and clean inside. I'm sure it is a
touchy freely thing as far as that goes. I'm sure that it is the different
mechanicals that makes the SawStop feel this way. The contractors saw
elevation and tilt wheel did feel like the typical contractors saws do.
Thinking back I think the pro wheels felt like they may not have been quire
as large/ massive as mine which would contribute to the feel.



3. I currently have a 15 roller fold down out feed table that mounts
onto the saw cabinet and the saw is on a mobile base. If I move my saw,
the out feed moves too with no legs to fold or relevel. The Sawstop has
a dust port in the same spot where my out feed would mount so that is a
no go unless HTC makes one specifically for this model. I at this point
I would not give up my out feed roller extension. Out feed tables that
have leg supports are way too clumsily for me.
Don't know the dustport and roller set. That would not be an issue for
me, as I use an outfeed table.

This thing has performed elegantly for 14 or so years. It is a great
solution to preventing the out feed from becoming a surface that collects
stuff and easily dropped out of the way when putting the saw away. It can
be left up while the saw is moved if necessary. Unfortunately the lower
cabinet mounting bracket would cover the SawStop dust port.

http://www.htcproductsinc.com/outrs.html



4. The industrial model had size advantages but similar issues for
$1000 more than the pro model, all things being equal.

5. Looking under the hood of both saws is like looking under the hood
of a modern automobile, dark and full up with machinery. Small wonder
why another brand could not be retrofitted.

What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck considering
its safety features. I would find it hard to justify buying a
replacement saw and having to give up features.
Understood.

For me its the safety feature and a major upgrade when I am ready to
jump. I do consider their quality to be above all others. But that's my
opinion, and obviously you have found less than satisfactory issues.

The safety issue is number one priority for changing saws. In my case I
think the pro would be a lateral move in quality. Having said that I would
probably pull the trigger in a heart beat if the out feed was not an issue.

basilisk wrote:
On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 00:01:32 -0600, Leon wrote:

On 3/2/2013 7:17 PM, basilisk wrote:



What I really want is a saw with a riving knife and to be at least as
nice as mine. The SawStop offers the most bang for the buck
considering its safety features. I would find it hard to justify
buying a replacement saw and having to give up features.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/html/em_13_3_jpsale.html

Klingspores powermatic machines 10% off, didn't check their prices
relative to everyone else.

basilisk



FWIW Jet and Powermatic are offering 15% off for the next 10 or so days,
any where.

didn't know...


basilisk

http://www.powermatic.com/

http://jettools-online.com/?gclid=CN...FQ6EnQodwDYA0g

"Leon" wrote

The safety issue is number one priority for changing saws. In my case I
think the pro would be a lateral move in quality. Having said that I would
probably pull the trigger in a heart beat if the out feed was not an
issue.

Is there any way you could modify either the rollers or the dust port? I
know, it would be a pain in the ass. But the Sawstop is a fine saw. And if
you could figure something out, it would be nice.

Have you discussed this with Sawstop headquarters? They may have a work
around. They may have some ideas on the dust port issue too.

On 3/3/2013 2:18 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" wrote

The safety issue is number one priority for changing saws. In my case I
think the pro would be a lateral move in quality. Having said that I
would
probably pull the trigger in a heart beat if the out feed was not an
issue.

Is there any way you could modify either the rollers or the dust port?
I know, it would be a pain in the ass. But the Sawstop is a fine saw.
And if you could figure something out, it would be nice.

Have you discussed this with Sawstop headquarters? They may have a work
around. They may have some ideas on the dust port issue too.




I tried to look inside the saw to see if there would be any interference
if the dust port was relocated. I am not sure how familiar you with the
saw but the inside of the saw has a dust hose like a dryer vent hose
that leads up to the blade area. The inside of the saw is as black and
dark as the outside so it is difficult to actually see much. Also the
trunion is more European in flavor rather than a copy of the older
Unisaw set that every one was copying so it was difficult to tell if the
hose would be crushed if relocated.

I do plan to e-mail them a message addressing this and as more of a
request for assistance to solve the situation. Their efforts would
probably would not be a waste of their time

I have thought about modifying the out feed but this would take
considerable effort and re-fabrication. I would rather not try to fix
what ain't broke.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 3/3/2013 2:18 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" wrote

The safety issue is number one priority for changing saws. In my case I
think the pro would be a lateral move in quality. Having said that I
would
probably pull the trigger in a heart beat if the out feed was not an
issue.

Is there any way you could modify either the rollers or the dust port?
I know, it would be a pain in the ass. But the Sawstop is a fine saw.
And if you could figure something out, it would be nice.

Have you discussed this with Sawstop headquarters? They may have a work
around. They may have some ideas on the dust port issue too.




I tried to look inside the saw to see if there would be any interference
if the dust port was relocated. I am not sure how familiar you with the
saw but the inside of the saw has a dust hose like a dryer vent hose that
leads up to the blade area. The inside of the saw is as black and dark as
the outside so it is difficult to actually see much. Also the trunion is
more European in flavor rather than a copy of the older Unisaw set that
every one was copying so it was difficult to tell if the hose would be
crushed if relocated.

I do plan to e-mail them a message addressing this and as more of a
request for assistance to solve the situation. Their efforts would
probably would not be a waste of their time

I have thought about modifying the out feed but this would take
considerable effort and re-fabrication. I would rather not try to fix
what ain't broke.

It may still be possible to create a solution without "considerable effort
and re-fabrication". I saw a show on a shop that was built. It was quite
large, but they needed to move out of it in a year or so. So they did not
want to build anything in that could not be easily moved. So they did a
number of things that may work here. My memory is a little hazy at this
time, but I will try to recall some of the things they did that would be
applicable to your situation.

1) They did not want to install a dust control system. So they got a
number of smaller DC systems and moved them around with quick connect type
of connections. It worked well for everything except the planer. They had
to empty them a lot on the planer.

2) They had both out feed tables and the flip up rollers. The interesting
thing they did was to make these portable as well. They put them on casters
and rolled them around to various machines. All machines were made the same
height with platforms.

One of them was a short platform (about a foot long) with the rollers
mounted to it. And they could roll it up to a saw or whatever and fasten
it. They could then flip up the rollers. I have no idea what fasteners
they used, but it just "clicked" together. When they were done, they
dropped the rollers and unhooked the whole thing from the say. Then they
rolled it away. I even had some shelves built into it. All mounted on some
substantial casters.

Again, I have no idea if any of this could apply to your situation. But I
thought I would pass it on any how. Good luck with your search. It would
be a shame to deny yourself a new tool because it could not accommodate your
present flip up rollers.

Another idea, does anybody make rollers for the Sawstop?

Or has anybody else made something that would work? Like a fold down table?
Or perhaps you could build a small cabinet, book shell, whatever onto the
saw. And attach the rollers to that. In fact I have seen fold down tables
like that attached to a table saw. That would probably be enough to clear
any kind of dust control attachment. The only thing that would affect the
saw is attaching the short cabinet to it. You ma end up giving up a foot of
space, but would end up with a shiny new toy!

Remember, he who dies with the most toys wins!!

Anyhow, I am brainstorming here. The basic concept here is to get creative
and attach the rollers to something else. Leave the saw alone. Make
something out of plywood. Make it simple and strong. Paint or finish it.
Attach the rollers. Attach it to the saw. If I was in love with my flip up
rollers and wanted a Sawstop, that is what I would do.

Need to go. The missus suddenly developed an intense desire to rearrange
the furniture.

On Sun, 3 Mar 2013 15:18:11 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
Is there any way you could modify either the rollers or the dust port? I
know, it would be a pain in the ass. But the Sawstop is a fine saw. And if
you could figure something out, it would be nice.

Only problem is that it would probably invalidate their warranty. I
contacted SawStop about lowering one of their table saws. (I use a
wheelchair) I was told that there was too much mechanism in the bottom
of the saw to do that *and* that if I could figure out a way to do so,
it would invalidate their warranty ~ no exceptions.

On 3/4/2013 12:58 AM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2013 15:18:11 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
Is there any way you could modify either the rollers or the dust port? I
know, it would be a pain in the ass. But the Sawstop is a fine saw. And if
you could figure something out, it would be nice.

Only problem is that it would probably invalidate their warranty. I
contacted SawStop about lowering one of their table saws. (I use a
wheelchair) I was told that there was too much mechanism in the bottom
of the saw to do that *and* that if I could figure out a way to do so,
it would invalidate their warranty ~ no exceptions.

But you could build a slighty raised platform around it that raises you
up with ramps that prevent it from being dangerous.

I would think the sawstop mechanism would really be beneficial to you,
as your lower angle of attack could get an artery from your arm closer
to contact with a blade.


--
Jeff

On Mon, 04 Mar 2013 19:54:15 -0500, woodchucker
But you could build a slighty raised platform around it that raises you
up with ramps that prevent it from being dangerous.

Yup, I've discussed/considered all that before. Rolling up and down
little ramps without arm rails has its own set of problems.

I would think the sawstop mechanism would really be beneficial to you,
as your lower angle of attack could get an artery from your arm closer
to contact with a blade

No argument, I'm 100% in favour of the SawStop technology. But,
putting up the protection aspect of the SawStop against having a
tablesaw at a convenient working height ~ the convenient working
height takes first precedence.