Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

It sounds like you infeed table of the jointer is out of adjustment.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

First thing to try:

Providing the machine/tables are setup properly, the infeed and outfeed
combined may not long enough for the board length, and possibly your
technique.

From your description, it sounds as if you may be inadvertently
applying downward pressure over the knives in the middle of the pass ...
it doesn't take much to get the symptom you are describing above.

Try another pass: when the leading edge of the board passes to the
outfeed table to the point where there is enough room (about a third of
half way), smoothly transfer one hand, then the other, so that _both_
are on the outfeed table, and far enough away from the knives so that
any downward pressure on the board is transferred to the outfeed table only.

See if that doesn't help ... if it doesn't, then you either have a setup
problem, or the length of the boards are just to great for the size of
the machine ... however, you can often overcome this with practiced
technique.

A plane would work, but may take more technique, so either check the
jointer setup, or practice your technique on some scrap until you get
the results you're looking for.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 15:49:20 -0500, Nova wrote:

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

It sounds like you infeed table of the jointer is out of adjustment.

OOPs! make that outfeed table.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
: )

Bill

Bill wrote in :

Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood
away from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe
a final pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your
goal in mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking"
part!
: )

Bill


Thanks, guys!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Swingman wrote in
:

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

First thing to try:

Providing the machine/tables are setup properly, the infeed and
outfeed combined may not long enough for the board length, and
possibly your technique.

I haven't done too many of these operations, but they worked before ...

From your description, it sounds as if you may be inadvertently
applying downward pressure over the knives in the middle of the pass
... it doesn't take much to get the symptom you are describing above.

That's probably it!

Try another pass: when the leading edge of the board passes to the
outfeed table to the point where there is enough room (about a third
of half way), smoothly transfer one hand, then the other, so that
_both_ are on the outfeed table, and far enough away from the knives
so that any downward pressure on the board is transferred to the
outfeed table only.

See if that doesn't help ... if it doesn't, then you either have a
setup problem, or the length of the boards are just to great for the
size of the machine ... however, you can often overcome this with
practiced technique.

A plane would work, but may take more technique, so either check the
jointer setup, or practice your technique on some scrap until you get
the results you're looking for.

Thanks, Karl! I'll try again ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Bill writes:
Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to

You have this backwards. You want a "sprung" joint, such that the ends
contact before the middle. 1/16" is a bit much for a sprung joint, however;
1/64th-1/32nd would be better. There are opinions on both sides of the
sprung-joint story.

scott

Han wrote in
:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long
enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches
more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my
fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have
another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I
tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well
trial and error hits again.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

(Scott Lurndal) wrote in
:

Bill writes:
Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to

You have this backwards. You want a "sprung" joint, such that the
ends contact before the middle. 1/16" is a bit much for a sprung
joint, however; 1/64th-1/32nd would be better. There are opinions on
both sides of the sprung-joint story.

scott

Thanks for the encouragement, Scott!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Monday, December 10, 2012 2:16:55 PM UTC-8, Han wrote:
Han wrote in : Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid

When you joint, get your down pressure onto the outfeed table as soon as possible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirst few inches to mid point of outfeed table.

On 12/10/2012 3:33 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Monday, December 10, 2012 2:16:55 PM UTC-8, Han wrote:
Han wrote in : Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid

When you joint, get your down pressure onto the outfeed table as soon as possible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirst few inches to mid point of outfeed table.


i wonder if a hold down, similar to board buddies, would be a good idea
to make this an easier repeatable task.

"Han" wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
-------------------------------------------------------------------
If this is that 4" wide, benchtop jointer, then your 42" long board
is the problem.

I always had the same problem on boards much over 30" long.

I ended up using a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit.

Lew

On 12/10/2012 4:16 PM, Han wrote:
Han wrote in
:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long
enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches
more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my
fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have
another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I
tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well
trial and error hits again.

I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to straighten
overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood against the rip fence.

Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

On 12/10/2012 3:33 PM, Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

perfect. I like a sprung joint since the ends shrink faster than the middle.
Hard to say what you did wrong.

On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
: )

Bill
Interesting Bill.
But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.

so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .

living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

tiredofspam wrote:
On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
: )

Bill
Interesting Bill.
But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

I explored a little, and evidently I had it backwards (so Han is doing
it right)! My bad.








in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.

so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .

living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

Leon wrote:


I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to
straighten overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood
against the rip fence.
Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

Leon - stop it! Behave or we'll have Lew "respond" to your posts...

--

-Mike-


PS - for any newbies out there... be careful of Leon - he is a closet
Festools Marketing Guy and he gets a lot of money for getting people here to
buy Festools. Be aware though - he will not send one of his Festools to you
to try out before buying. He's all Festools until he is asked to pony up...

--

-Mike-

tiredofspam wrote:
On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?


Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
: )

Bill
Interesting Bill.
But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

I realize now I mixed up with the concept of "clamping cauls".
That's the problem with beginners... %-)




in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.

so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .

living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 +0000, Han wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed
to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing
on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

If you can get that down to a fat 64th, you've done it just right -
compressing that gap with clamps puts enough pressure on the ends to
ensure that they won't separate over time.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On 12/10/2012 8:35 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to
straighten overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood
against the rip fence.
Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

Leon - stop it! Behave or we'll have Lew "respond" to your posts...


Who?

Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

How little is the joiner?

It sounds like the outfeed table is a touch low...while you have pressure on
the board on the infeed, the board end isn't getting cut...later, when you
have pressure on the outfeed side of the board, the center is being cut.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in :

Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

How little is the joiner?

It sounds like the outfeed table is a touch low...while you have
pressure on the board on the infeed, the board end isn't getting
cut...later, when you have pressure on the outfeed side of the board,
the center is being cut.

Good thought!

Thanks!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Ed Pawlowski wrote in
:

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.

Good thought, but I can't fit a 42" long board on my sled
I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my
fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:

I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my
fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.

Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may or
may not work.

Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02...dge-no-jointer

That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.

This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
years before buying a jointer:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&site=ROCKLER


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote in
:

On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:

I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with
my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the
boards.

Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may
or may not work.

Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02...-jig-plans-str
aight-edge-no-jointer

That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.

This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
years before buying a jointer:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&site=ROCKLER

It seemed to work - Now gluing it up

https://plus.google.com/photos/10653...s/582074621296
8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE

Looking at those setups now!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
Swingman wrote in
:

On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:

I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint
with my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then
reglue the boards.

Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may
or may not work.

Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02...-jig-plans-str
aight-edge-no-jointer

That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.

This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
years before buying a jointer:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&site=ROCKLER

It seemed to work - Now gluing it up

https://plus.google.com/photos/10653...s/582074621296
8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE

Looking at those setups now!

You could use less glue.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in :

You could use less glue.

Probably ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Leon wrote:

I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to straighten
overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood against the rip
fence.


Note of concern about this. In the latest issue of FWW (#231, Feb/2013,
p.7): There is a "letter to the editor" indicating that making a
"tapered cutoff", as described in an earlier issue (much like you
described above), resulted in a the offcut falling into the back of the
blade resulting in kickback and many stiches to the person's face. The
accident was due to the person not using a riving knife, which would
have separated the offcut, but the riving knife wasn't mentioned in the
article.

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

Bill







Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

As another asked (and I've not seen answered) how little is "little"? A
4" benchtop w/ only 14-16" tables could be a trick, perhaps, but a
full-size jointer, even if only 4" should be able to do 42" w/o too much
trouble and certainly a 6".

Not knowing the model, here's a link to the Delta sheet for one of the
6" guys that describes how the adjustments are done...

Another suggested the outfeed table is low--that really isn't the
symptom for that; generally there you'd see a gouge at the tail end of
the cut as it drops of the table is low as the end of the piece comes
off the infeed table.

If the outfeed is high, it will cause a curved workpiece but the work
will be slightly convex, not concave because as Fig 18 shows in the link
the edge will ride on the front lip of the outfeed table initially as
the work is held down on the infeed. But, if the pressure is shifted to
the outfeed only, then if it is high, less will be taken from the
trailing edge.

The other possible problem is that the table sags...

http://servicenet.deltamachinery.com...oductId=71513&
productType=undefined&documentId=38554&
translatedFileName=http://documents.dewalt.com/documents/English
/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/En418-03-651-0001.pdf

Likely it's a combination of perhaps of technique and alignment. How
near straight an edge did you have to start with? Did you try to take
any initial curvature out by working either both ends from the middle if
it were concave or just hit the middle a couple of times if convex? If
it's long and had a bow to begin with, you may have just followed the
initial shape and simply lessened it just a little...

I've done (w/ effort) pieces as long a 6-ft on a little 6" Craftsman
successfully so one _can_ stretch the limits w/ care and practice...

--

On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
come with, at a minimum, a splitter.

Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
valid, some sheer political correctness.

Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
come with, at a minimum, a splitter.

Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
valid, some sheer political correctness.

Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.


I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
on new saws?

BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from
Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?

Bill wrote in :

Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident
described above. It reminds me just enough of what you described
above, to mention it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS
without a riving knife.

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does
not come with, at a minimum, a splitter.

Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it
is valid, some sheer political correctness.

Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment
of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits
and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone
of political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging
fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug
assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in
actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept
under the shop mat.


I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
on new saws?

BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from
Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?

My Craftsman table saw dates from the '80s, I believe. It came with a
splitter of sorts, complete with antikickback pawls and a bladeguard.
This combination is mounted on the back of the saw and it should be in
place for all cuts except dado. I do know I should have always used it,
because it is necessary. DAMHIKT!!

Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
antikickbackpawls, but you know ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

dpb wrote in :

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

As another asked (and I've not seen answered) how little is "little"?
A 4" benchtop w/ only 14-16" tables could be a trick, perhaps, but a
full-size jointer, even if only 4" should be able to do 42" w/o too
much trouble and certainly a 6".

Not knowing the model, here's a link to the Delta sheet for one of the
6" guys that describes how the adjustments are done...

Another suggested the outfeed table is low--that really isn't the
symptom for that; generally there you'd see a gouge at the tail end of
the cut as it drops of the table is low as the end of the piece comes
off the infeed table.

If the outfeed is high, it will cause a curved workpiece but the work
will be slightly convex, not concave because as Fig 18 shows in the
link the edge will ride on the front lip of the outfeed table
initially as the work is held down on the infeed. But, if the
pressure is shifted to the outfeed only, then if it is high, less will
be taken from the trailing edge.

The other possible problem is that the table sags...

http://servicenet.deltamachinery.com...t?docName=En41
8-03-651-0001.pdf&productId=71513&
productType=undefined&documentId=38554&
translatedFileName=http://documents.dewalt.com/documents/English
/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/En418-03-651-0001.pdf

Likely it's a combination of perhaps of technique and alignment. How
near straight an edge did you have to start with? Did you try to take
any initial curvature out by working either both ends from the middle
if it were concave or just hit the middle a couple of times if convex?
If it's long and had a bow to begin with, you may have just followed
the initial shape and simply lessened it just a little...

I've done (w/ effort) pieces as long a 6-ft on a little 6" Craftsman
successfully so one _can_ stretch the limits w/ care and practice...


Thanks for the extensive comments. Much appreciated!

My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say
nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did
this. I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned
may do the trick too.

The boards were pretty straight-edged to begin with. But the edges were
a bit rounded. Perhaps I'll just glue the next set and then sand them
down, or the other way around.

At least this is/was a woodworking discussion !!!


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:

Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
antikickbackpawls, but you know ...


I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!

If they lose their grip, it's probably time.

How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written
in by a lawyer. : )

Bill wrote in :

Han wrote:

Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
antikickbackpawls, but you know ...


I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!

If they lose their grip, it's probably time.

How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written
in by a lawyer. : )

Juast going by memory. I had to peruse the manual a little while ago. I
have always had a bit of trouble getting the blade adjusted to an angle,
and then back to 90°. The Wixey digital angle readout widget is always a
great help.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 12/11/2012 2:08 PM, Han wrote:

My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say
nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did
this.

Might not be all your technique ... spend some time being anal about the
tables being set up properly. Chances that it was done to a gnat's ass
at the factory is slim to none.

I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned
may do the trick too.

The general rule of thumb for the length of board you can practically
joint on any particular jointer is 1 1/2 times the combined length of
the tables.

IOW, on a well set up jointer with a combined table length of +/- 30",
and with proper technique, the average user can practically joint boards
in the neighborhood of 45" in length.

This can be increased with practiced technique, but probably not much
more than double for all practical purposes, and that will take some
practiced experience.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"Han" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote in :


Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
antikickbackpawls, but you know ...

Rip or Cross-Cut? ;~)

On 12/11/12 1:00 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
come with, at a minimum, a splitter.

Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
valid, some sheer political correctness.

Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.


Many other times, these letter to the editor leave out key aspects of
the incident which illustrate proof of the writer's foolishness and/or
ignorance that was the cause of the problem to begin with.

Such letters are generally the writer's own therapy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply