I am making a large panel for a cabinet top. The front will be 30 degrees
to the back. I plan on cutting it with a circular saw, and don't expect it
to come out perfectly.

Can I run it though the jointer, even though it is not parallel to the
grain? I have about a half inch of scrap on the side; hopefully the tearout
won't exceed that.

Be sure to feed it this way. Once started keep firm pressure on outfeed
table as you go with a light cut. If this edge will be joined to
another piece later I'd be concerned about snipe more than tear out

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toller wrote:
I am making a large panel for a cabinet top. The front will be 30
degrees
to the back. I plan on cutting it with a circular saw, and don't
expect it
to come out perfectly.

Can I run it though the jointer, even though it is not parallel to
the
grain? I have about a half inch of scrap on the side; hopefully the
tearout
won't exceed that.

"Joey" wrote in message
oups.com...

Be sure to feed it this way. Once started keep firm pressure on outfeed
table as you go with a light cut. If this edge will be joined to
another piece later I'd be concerned about snipe more than tear out

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\

You are moving the wood to the left, yes?

No, it will be a finished edge; I just don't have confidence in the circular
saw ability to cut a good edge in my curly cherry.

In article , "toller" wrote:

No, it will be a finished edge; I just don't have confidence in the circular
saw ability to cut a good edge in my curly cherry.

Well, I wouldn't have much *more* confidence in the jointer, on curly cherry.
This is just crying out for a good hand plane.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

BTW how wide is this curly cherry top
"toller" wrote in message
...

"Joey" wrote in message
oups.com...

Be sure to feed it this way. Once started keep firm pressure on outfeed
table as you go with a light cut. If this edge will be joined to
another piece later I'd be concerned about snipe more than tear out

\ \
\ \
\ \ /____
\

You are moving the wood to the left, yes?

No, it will be a finished edge; I just don't have confidence in the
circular
saw ability to cut a good edge in my curly cherry.

Yes moving left so for the lack of a better term the 'pointy' edge
exits the cutter last. If its a finished edge I would think any minor
snipe could cleaned up and unnoticable.

toller wrote:
"Joey" wrote in message
oups.com...

Be sure to feed it this way. Once started keep firm pressure on
outfeed
table as you go with a light cut. If this edge will be joined to
another piece later I'd be concerned about snipe more than tear out

\ \
\ \
\ \ /____
\

You are moving the wood to the left, yes?

No, it will be a finished edge; I just don't have confidence in the
circular
saw ability to cut a good edge in my curly cherry.

"joey" wrote in message
...
BTW how wide is this curly cherry top

The back is 40". The right side is 28" and the left side is 9". The front
is angled. It is to go in a corner. The right side is a deep cabinet, the
left will be book shelves. Oh, 44" high.

I am only using curly cherry for the left side and the top; the rest is
plain cherry.

Won't worry as much about exit defects if you clamp an inch and a half of
soft scrap to the good wood. It takes the hit.

Oh yes. Small bites, rather than slow speed passes will burn cherry much
less.

"Joey" wrote in message
oups.com...
Yes moving left so for the lack of a better term the 'pointy' edge
exits the cutter last. If its a finished edge I would think any minor
snipe could cleaned up and unnoticable.