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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On 12/10/12 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 3:08 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 11:53 AM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 3:19 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 11:45 AM,
wrote:
Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water.
Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results.

Good Lord, you're stupid.


Better than being a stupid asshole.

You certainly should know.

I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water.
Or even 160 degree.

You really are an illiterate moron.


Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support
your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an
adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem
dribble.

Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I
suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't
understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth.

Congratulations, you win.

Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling.


Which is why I've grown tired of this debate.

Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron
is lonely.


You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in
self esteem.
I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you.
Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though.


More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed.


Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Pour it into your lap for comparison

G


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth


"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Darn.
Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin,
that uses "very hot" as a marker on it.

But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting
it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't
fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a
car

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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

Attila Iskander wrote:


But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before
putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it
up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your
knees while sitting in a car


Oh bull****! Everyone knows that "very hot" means she's the one who is
going to forget everything you did together, after you marry her. Sheese...

--

-Mike-



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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 07:47:21 -0600, " Attila Iskander"
wrote:


"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Darn.
Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin,
that uses "very hot" as a marker on it.

But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting
it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't
fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a
car


To Bunn, for example, on their commercial coffee server SH series

http://www.bunn.com/pdfs/manuals/41976.0000.pdf

The water temperature should be no less than 91°C (195°F)

Are any of these things actually adjustable by the restaurant?


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Attila Iskander wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Darn.
Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin,
that uses "very hot" as a marker on it.



It's called the 'Close Enough' scale.


But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting
it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't
fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a
car

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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth


Gunner wrote:

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Pour it into your lap for comparison



Comparison to what? I don't drink coffee, and it wouldn't come close
to a glass of icewater.
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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 3:08 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 11:53 AM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 3:19 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 11:45 AM,
wrote:
Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water.
Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results.

Good Lord, you're stupid.


Better than being a stupid asshole.

You certainly should know.

I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water.
Or even 160 degree.

You really are an illiterate moron.


Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support
your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an
adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem
dribble.

Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I
suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't
understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth.

Congratulations, you win.

Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling.


Which is why I've grown tired of this debate.

Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron
is lonely.


You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in
self esteem.
I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you.
Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though.


More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed.


Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice.


Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless
moron. No surprise.
  #290   Report Post  
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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 19:06:14 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:30:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,

says...

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:01:14 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,

says...

On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 06:38:57 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,

says...

On Fri, 07 Dec 2012 12:37:23 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article
,
" wrote:

On Dec 6, 10:39*am, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/6/12 8:29 AM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:





In article ,
wrote:

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 21:21:55 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Or, the McDonald's coffee lawsuit.

Uh, I'd venture that 99.9% of the people who bring this up as a
supposed
example of a frivolous lawsuit, actually have never heard the real
story.

Fact 1: The woman received THIRD DEGREE burns.

Bull****.

The coffee was FAR hotter
than any reasonable restaurant ever serves it. This was a deliberate
ploy to reduce requests for refills, as the stuff couldn't even be
sipped for 10-15 minutes.

180F *is* appropriate for coffee. *Dunkin' Donuts required that their
coffee be served at 180F +/- 3F, at that time. *What she did is not
appropriate for a cup of coffee. *BEcause of this nonsense it's
difficult to find a decent cup of coffee anymore.

Fact 2: The woman asked McD's to pay her medical bills, which IIRC were
a couple of hundred dollars.

Irrrelevant.

Fact 3: She brought suit only AFTER McD refused to pay the paltry
medical bills.

Irelevant.

Here is the full story: http://www.lectlaw.com/files/cur78.htm.

Don't let facts get in the way of a good debate. *:-)
There's even more to the
story...
http://movies.netflix.com/WiMovie/Ho...6?locale=en-US

My home coffeepot brews and serves at 60 C, or 140 F.

Joe Gwinn

I'm pretty sure it brews higher than that. 175 is kind of the minimum
for extracting all the good oils. You may be using a "cold brewer"
though, I don't know. No standard production coffee maker brews under
180, to the best of my knowledge. Many brew up past 205 which burns the
coffee.

--


Right around 200F is the optimum temperature to brew
coffee and extract the flavor. I agree that at 140F, I would
expect crap coffee and I would be surprised to find a
decent coffee maker that brews it at that temp. Also note
that if you measure the temp in the carafe, it's going to
be substantially below the temp where the water is in
contact with the coffee.

I use a french press and an electric kettle to brew mine.
The kettle heats the water to boiling and then that
combined with the coffee and the room temp french press
puts it right around 200F.

I measured my coffeepot (Krups) this morning - the brew and serve
temperature is 180 F, not the 140 F I recalled. Now that I think about
it, I measured the dishwasher water temperature around the same time,
and it was 140 F for "Normal" wash, so I probably mixed the answers up.

...and McDs and DD brewed (and served if fresh) coffee at that same
180F. Now, thanks to the stupid old bag, one can't get a decent cup
of coffee.

Well, actually one can. McD has considerably improved their coffee
since then (has nothing to do with the suit and everything to do with
Starbucks).

McD's is at least drinkable (Starbucks is not) but it's stone cold.

Not around here it isn't. If it is where you are talk to the manager
and if that doesn't work talk to corporate.

Why would I do that? Just say "no" to McD's coffee. If they want to
make crap they can keep it (and I, my money).

If you aren't willing to address a problem that is unique to your
location then don't complain about it.

It's *not* unique. ...and no, I have no interest in fixing McD's
problems when it's far easier to avoid them.


Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.

Not "near me". I don't go to McD's when I'm home. But yes, every
time, except one, I've gotten coffee at McD's it's been warm, at best.


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On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 22:46:59 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.



'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Pour it into your lap for comparison


Better. pour it into the lap of a 79YO granny. You need to get the
calibration right.
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On 12/11/12 11:17 AM, z wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 6:37 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 3:08 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 11:53 AM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 3:19 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 11:45 AM,
wrote:
Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water.
Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results.

Good Lord, you're stupid.


Better than being a stupid asshole.

You certainly should know.

I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water.
Or even 160 degree.

You really are an illiterate moron.


Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support
your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an
adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem
dribble.

Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I
suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't
understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth.

Congratulations, you win.

Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling.


Which is why I've grown tired of this debate.

Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron
is lonely.


You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in
self esteem.
I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you.
Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though.

More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed.


Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice.


Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless
moron. No surprise.


This is really getting boring. Like I said, you really bad at trolling.
Are you as bad at everything else as you are at this?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default An idiot and his table saw... The truth

On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:31:13 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 07:47:21 -0600, " Attila Iskander"
wrote:


"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then
something is wrong.


'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Darn.
Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin,
that uses "very hot" as a marker on it.

But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting
it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't
fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a
car


To Bunn, for example, on their commercial coffee server SH series

http://www.bunn.com/pdfs/manuals/41976.0000.pdf

The water temperature should be no less than 91°C (195°F)


That's the brewing temperature. The serving temperature (the
temperature in the carafe) will be somewhat lower. As I mentioned
before DD's required their franchisees to keep the serving temperature
at 180F +/-3F. It was one of the tests done during the on-site
inspections. The first thing they would do is stick the thermometer
into the coffee at the counter (not a freshly brewed pot).

Are any of these things actually adjustable by the restaurant?


By the restaurant, I believe at least some are. DD's franchisees were
responsible for it.



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"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Attila Iskander wrote:


But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before
putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it
up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your
knees while sitting in a car


Oh bull****! Everyone knows that "very hot" means she's the one who is
going to forget everything you did together, after you marry her.
Sheese...


I believe you are discussing a different category of "very hot".


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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

Attila Iskander wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote:

Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all
serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you
then
something is wrong.


'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement.


Darn.
Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or
Kelvin,
that uses "very hot" as a marker on it.



It's called the 'Close Enough' scale.


Dang
I forgot about that scale
That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure. Right ?



But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before
putting
it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you
don't
fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in
a
car


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On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:25:24 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/11/12 11:17 AM, z wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 6:37 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 3:08 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/10/12 11:53 AM,
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 3:19 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/6/12 11:45 AM,
wrote:
Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water.
Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results.

Good Lord, you're stupid.


Better than being a stupid asshole.

You certainly should know.

I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water.
Or even 160 degree.

You really are an illiterate moron.


Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support
your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an
adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem
dribble.

Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I
suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't
understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth.

Congratulations, you win.

Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling.


Which is why I've grown tired of this debate.

Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron
is lonely.


You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in
self esteem.
I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you.
Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though.

More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed.


Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice.


Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless
moron. No surprise.


This is really getting boring.


More proof of your single-digit IQ. Continuing to do something that
is that boring isn't very bright. Yet you will continue forever. No
brain, no pain.

Like I said, you really bad at trolling.


Repeating yourself won't make you less of a liar, just a bigger one.

Are you as bad at everything else as you are at this?


Blush, Why, you honor me with your insults. Coming from you,
they're high praise.

Now run along. I think your mommy is calling.

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Attila Iskander wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

It's called the 'Close Enough' scale.


Dang
I forgot about that scale
That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure.
Right ?



Yep. it runs from Femtosmidgens to a Smidgen. then it becomes a
'Good enough for government work' at a trillion Smidgens. They are very
sensitive to temperature, on a 20 dB log scale, too.
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On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 14:09:28 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Attila Iskander wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

It's called the 'Close Enough' scale.


Dang
I forgot about that scale
That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure.
Right ?



Yep. it runs from Femtosmidgens to a Smidgen. then it becomes a
'Good enough for government work' at a trillion Smidgens. They are very
sensitive to temperature, on a 20 dB log scale, too.



^5 !!!!!!!!

Very well done!

Gunner, with a new box of RCHs


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
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Default An idiot and his table saw...

On Dec 10, 1:02*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:24:00 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Dec 9, 8:50*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 05:43:57 -0800 (PST), "


wrote:
On Dec 7, 8:56*am, wrote:
On Fri, 7 Dec 2012 05:29:58 -0800 (PST), "


wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:18 pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


On Dec 6, 11:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


On Dec 5, 2:50 pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


You do realize that turning off the saw via the switch is
very different from a power failure, right? Using the
switch there is still power available to the protection
circuitry. During a power failure there is not.


A relay with it's coil across the power line when the switch is on
will stop it, if the power fails. Or configure it with the common
on/off power buttons as a simple motor controller.


It will stop it in 1 ms? Or at least close enough to instantly
to avoid injury, eh? You sure about that? You should go tell
the SawStop guy what a simple, practical new invention you
have. I say, it just doesn't work.


No one claimed that it did, and you just want to whine.


Excuse me, but try to follow the thread. The discussion was
about the SawStop and what happens if power is lost. The
claim was made that it still would work. Then someone claimed
that you could just short the motor and use electromagnetic
braking in case of power loss. The SawStop halts the saw in
1 ms.


Excuse yourself. It doesn't do that when the power fails, and you're
in the dark with a stil spinning blade. It's you that can't comprehend
what is happening in this thread. I introduced the magnetic braking to
stop the blade faster when the motor is turned off. I also told how to
do it in the case of a power failure. It's not my fault that your mother
used to let you play with plastic bags over your head, which caused all
that brain damage.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Let's go back to your first post on this:


Leon:
10+ years ago before the SawStop was in production I questioned Gass
about this. *My TS accident happened after I finished a cut and had
turned the saw off. *The blade was coasting down to a stop when I was
cut. *I wanted to know back then it those bases were covered also.


Michael:
* A modification can be made to table saws with induction or split
phase motors. *You change the power switch from SPST to SPDT, add a
diode & electrolytic capacitor that charges when the motor is
running.
When you switch the motor off, the capacitor discharges through the
motor, causing a rapid braking effect. *This can't be done with
universal motors, since they will run on DC.


In the first sentence of the post you replied to, Leon said "I
questioned Gass about this." * The "this" he was referring to
was the issue if the SawStop still worked in the event of a power
fail. * So, that was the context. *And in posts before that, others
had suggested adding a cap to the SawStop so that it would
work when power was lost.


However, Leon's problem came in the spin-down which wouldn't
necessarily require the SS hardware.


It started with Leon saying this:


"If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power.
Yes
the stop will work if the saw is turned off. "


The "stop" Leon was talking about was the SawStop.
That was then changed to include normal spin-down,
without a power fail. * Whether you had the safety
protection of SawStop in those events. *leon was
checking to see what SS does in those cases.
SawStop halts the
saw in 1ms, apparently the timeframe you need to avoid
injury if you're about to hit the blade with your finger.


...and Leon explained his accident elsewhere. *SawStop was *NOT*
needed to save blood.


I don't care or know if Leon explained "his" accident
somewhere else. *Like most people, I'm not a mind
reader. *I just read his post in the context immediately
preceeding it.


I was giving you "the rest of the story", since you weren't bright
enough to pick up on it the first time.

...and yes, a blade brake would *COMPLETELY* solve the problem as
stated.

So, first, absent some extraordinary electromagnetic
braking design, I say you're not going to halt the saw
in the 1ms timeframe, that is fast enough to prevent
an injury if you shove your finger into the spinnng blade.


*NO ONE* said you would. *Stop putting words in people's mouths
(something which you're exceedingly good at).


Go **** yourself.


Sorry that you don't like the truth. *It is still the truth.







*Leon wanted to know if they'd
covered this case.


Yes, the case he was talking about was if SawStop would
work in power loss or normal spin-down,


Wouldn't have saved him in his accident.


Again, if he had included "his accident, his parameters",
then we wouldn't be here. *He posted in a thread about
SawStop and by context it implied his remarks were in
that regard. * He seems to be ok with it? *What are you]
now his argumentative little asshole defender?


I don't have any idea how big is asshole is but you've demonstrated
that you're consumed by yours.

Why is it that you have to take almost every discussion
that you participate down this kind of path? * I explained
my perspective, yet you INSIST that the way YOU happened
to interpret the post is the ONLY acceptable way. *WTF
is wrong with you?


[..../]
*IRONY

Idiot. *I was explaining the issue to you and you turned into your
normal assholiness. *I expected it and wasn't disappointed.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Anyone can go back and look at the thread. The poster I
replied to was not clear whether they were referring to adding
electromagnetic braking for coast-down with a SawStop or
without it. Given that the bulk of the thread was about SawStop,
I interpreted it to mean adding it to the saw with SawStop.
You interpreted it another way. I explained why I interpreted
it the way I did. I didn't say that was the only interpretation.
I also agreed with, I think, every point you made. And I did it
politely.

Instead of just accepting that, you started with the
snide remarks and insults, as is so typical from you.
Over what? Nothing factual about SawStop. Nothing
factual about anything. Just your continued insistance that
there is only one way to interpret that post which was unclear
and that anyone who didn't interpret it that way is an idiot.

Just look at all the similar threads where you do exactly
the same thing, at all the vile arguments you spawn here.
As I've said, you've obviously got some real issues.

  #305   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 354
Default An idiot and his table saw...

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 05:39:50 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 10, 1:02*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:24:00 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Dec 9, 8:50*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 05:43:57 -0800 (PST), "


wrote:
On Dec 7, 8:56*am, wrote:
On Fri, 7 Dec 2012 05:29:58 -0800 (PST), "


wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:18 pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


On Dec 6, 11:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


On Dec 5, 2:50 pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
" wrote:


You do realize that turning off the saw via the switch is
very different from a power failure, right? Using the
switch there is still power available to the protection
circuitry. During a power failure there is not.


A relay with it's coil across the power line when the switch is on
will stop it, if the power fails. Or configure it with the common
on/off power buttons as a simple motor controller.


It will stop it in 1 ms? Or at least close enough to instantly
to avoid injury, eh? You sure about that? You should go tell
the SawStop guy what a simple, practical new invention you
have. I say, it just doesn't work.


No one claimed that it did, and you just want to whine.


Excuse me, but try to follow the thread. The discussion was
about the SawStop and what happens if power is lost. The
claim was made that it still would work. Then someone claimed
that you could just short the motor and use electromagnetic
braking in case of power loss. The SawStop halts the saw in
1 ms.


Excuse yourself. It doesn't do that when the power fails, and you're
in the dark with a stil spinning blade. It's you that can't comprehend
what is happening in this thread. I introduced the magnetic braking to
stop the blade faster when the motor is turned off. I also told how to
do it in the case of a power failure. It's not my fault that your mother
used to let you play with plastic bags over your head, which caused all
that brain damage.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Let's go back to your first post on this:


Leon:
10+ years ago before the SawStop was in production I questioned Gass
about this. *My TS accident happened after I finished a cut and had
turned the saw off. *The blade was coasting down to a stop when I was
cut. *I wanted to know back then it those bases were covered also.


Michael:
* A modification can be made to table saws with induction or split
phase motors. *You change the power switch from SPST to SPDT, add a
diode & electrolytic capacitor that charges when the motor is
running.
When you switch the motor off, the capacitor discharges through the
motor, causing a rapid braking effect. *This can't be done with
universal motors, since they will run on DC.


In the first sentence of the post you replied to, Leon said "I
questioned Gass about this." * The "this" he was referring to
was the issue if the SawStop still worked in the event of a power
fail. * So, that was the context. *And in posts before that, others
had suggested adding a cap to the SawStop so that it would
work when power was lost.


However, Leon's problem came in the spin-down which wouldn't
necessarily require the SS hardware.


It started with Leon saying this:


"If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power.
Yes
the stop will work if the saw is turned off. "


The "stop" Leon was talking about was the SawStop.
That was then changed to include normal spin-down,
without a power fail. * Whether you had the safety
protection of SawStop in those events. *leon was
checking to see what SS does in those cases.
SawStop halts the
saw in 1ms, apparently the timeframe you need to avoid
injury if you're about to hit the blade with your finger.


...and Leon explained his accident elsewhere. *SawStop was *NOT*
needed to save blood.


I don't care or know if Leon explained "his" accident
somewhere else. *Like most people, I'm not a mind
reader. *I just read his post in the context immediately
preceeding it.


I was giving you "the rest of the story", since you weren't bright
enough to pick up on it the first time.

...and yes, a blade brake would *COMPLETELY* solve the problem as
stated.

So, first, absent some extraordinary electromagnetic
braking design, I say you're not going to halt the saw
in the 1ms timeframe, that is fast enough to prevent
an injury if you shove your finger into the spinnng blade.


*NO ONE* said you would. *Stop putting words in people's mouths
(something which you're exceedingly good at).


Go **** yourself.


Sorry that you don't like the truth. *It is still the truth.







*Leon wanted to know if they'd
covered this case.


Yes, the case he was talking about was if SawStop would
work in power loss or normal spin-down,


Wouldn't have saved him in his accident.


Again, if he had included "his accident, his parameters",
then we wouldn't be here. *He posted in a thread about
SawStop and by context it implied his remarks were in
that regard. * He seems to be ok with it? *What are you]
now his argumentative little asshole defender?


I don't have any idea how big is asshole is but you've demonstrated
that you're consumed by yours.

Why is it that you have to take almost every discussion
that you participate down this kind of path? * I explained
my perspective, yet you INSIST that the way YOU happened
to interpret the post is the ONLY acceptable way. *WTF
is wrong with you?


[..../]
*IRONY

Idiot. *I was explaining the issue to you and you turned into your
normal assholiness. *I expected it and wasn't disappointed.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Anyone can go back and look at the thread. The poster I
replied to was not clear whether they were referring to adding
electromagnetic braking for coast-down with a SawStop or
without it. Given that the bulk of the thread was about SawStop,
I interpreted it to mean adding it to the saw with SawStop.
You interpreted it another way. I explained why I interpreted
it the way I did. I didn't say that was the only interpretation.
I also agreed with, I think, every point you made. And I did it
politely.


Bull****. YOu got into your regular snit when I explained the
situation to you. You *really* don't like it when there is another
way of looking at a problem. ...an amazing quality for an engineer.

Instead of just accepting that, you started with the
snide remarks and insults, as is so typical from you.
Over what? Nothing factual about SawStop. Nothing
factual about anything. Just your continued insistance that
there is only one way to interpret that post which was unclear
and that anyone who didn't interpret it that way is an idiot.


The portion of the thread was moving away from SS, towards a better
solution for the problem at hand.

Just look at all the similar threads where you do exactly
the same thing, at all the vile arguments you spawn here.
As I've said, you've obviously got some real issues.


....and I've said it before, you're full of ****. You just CAN'T STAND
being told that you're wrong. You won't even think (forget outside
the box) for a minute. Engineer, my ass.





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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 12,155
Default An idiot and his table saw...

On 12/5/2012 8:47 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 12/4/2012 11:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/4/2012 4:56 PM, Red Green wrote:
dpb wrote in :

On 12/4/2012 12:33 PM, dpb wrote:


[snip]


Let's see, power goes out, lights go out, hand reduces down/forward
pressure, wood kicks, fingers hit hot dog blade that's spinnning full
bore, ooops! no electricity to sense, fingers splat on back wall. Wonder
if hot dog man has that one covered?


If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power. Yes
the stop will work if the saw is turned off.

Capacitor



Do you know that for a fact, Leon or is that speculation? Yes, a
capacitor could be used to discharge the SawStop mechanism but I'm
wondering if it's also set up (assuming that this is NOT a speculative
solution) to power the sensing circuitry.


Yes I know this for a fact, I did the research. Power goes off what
powers the motor? According to Sawstop the protection will probably be
available for a second or two. Past that you are on your own. If you
are cutting wood when power is lost any saw will stop faster.
If there is no power loss but the saw motor is turned off the protection
continues through coast down.


In any event, strike your phrase "if the saw is turned off" as erroneous
and/or misleading. If the saw is turned off, how would you ever change
the blade without the device triggering. Better to say "even with a
loss of power" (if such is truly the case).


NO do not strike the phrase if the saw is turned off. Just because the
saw is turned off does not mean that the blade is not spinning... I cut
half my thumb off after turning my saw off and reaching to remove the
rip fence after performing a dado cut.20 years ago.







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