Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#282
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Pour it into your lap for comparison G The methodology of the left has always been: 1. Lie 2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible 3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible 4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie 5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw 6. Then everyone must conform to the lie |
#283
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Darn. Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin, that uses "very hot" as a marker on it. But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car |
#284
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
Attila Iskander wrote:
But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car Oh bull****! Everyone knows that "very hot" means she's the one who is going to forget everything you did together, after you marry her. Sheese... -- -Mike- |
#285
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#286
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 07:47:21 -0600, " Attila Iskander"
wrote: "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Darn. Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin, that uses "very hot" as a marker on it. But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car To Bunn, for example, on their commercial coffee server SH series http://www.bunn.com/pdfs/manuals/41976.0000.pdf The water temperature should be no less than 91°C (195°F) Are any of these things actually adjustable by the restaurant? |
#287
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
Attila Iskander wrote: "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Darn. Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin, that uses "very hot" as a marker on it. It's called the 'Close Enough' scale. But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car |
#288
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
Gunner wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Pour it into your lap for comparison Comparison to what? I don't drink coffee, and it wouldn't come close to a glass of icewater. |
#289
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote: On 12/10/12 6:37 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 3:08 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 11:53 AM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 3:19 PM, wrote: On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 11:45 AM, wrote: Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water. Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results. Good Lord, you're stupid. Better than being a stupid asshole. You certainly should know. I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water. Or even 160 degree. You really are an illiterate moron. Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem dribble. Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth. Congratulations, you win. Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling. Which is why I've grown tired of this debate. Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron is lonely. You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in self esteem. I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you. Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though. More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed. Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice. Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless moron. No surprise. |
#290
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 19:06:14 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote: In article , says... On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:30:16 -0500, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:01:14 -0500, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 06:38:57 -0500, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... On Fri, 07 Dec 2012 12:37:23 -0500, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , " wrote: On Dec 6, 10:39*am, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 8:29 AM, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , wrote: On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 21:21:55 -0800, Smitty Two wrote: In article , "Mike Marlow" wrote: Or, the McDonald's coffee lawsuit. Uh, I'd venture that 99.9% of the people who bring this up as a supposed example of a frivolous lawsuit, actually have never heard the real story. Fact 1: The woman received THIRD DEGREE burns. Bull****. The coffee was FAR hotter than any reasonable restaurant ever serves it. This was a deliberate ploy to reduce requests for refills, as the stuff couldn't even be sipped for 10-15 minutes. 180F *is* appropriate for coffee. *Dunkin' Donuts required that their coffee be served at 180F +/- 3F, at that time. *What she did is not appropriate for a cup of coffee. *BEcause of this nonsense it's difficult to find a decent cup of coffee anymore. Fact 2: The woman asked McD's to pay her medical bills, which IIRC were a couple of hundred dollars. Irrrelevant. Fact 3: She brought suit only AFTER McD refused to pay the paltry medical bills. Irelevant. Here is the full story: http://www.lectlaw.com/files/cur78.htm. Don't let facts get in the way of a good debate. *:-) There's even more to the story...http://movies.netflix.com/WiMovie/Ho...6?locale=en-US My home coffeepot brews and serves at 60 C, or 140 F. Joe Gwinn I'm pretty sure it brews higher than that. 175 is kind of the minimum for extracting all the good oils. You may be using a "cold brewer" though, I don't know. No standard production coffee maker brews under 180, to the best of my knowledge. Many brew up past 205 which burns the coffee. -- Right around 200F is the optimum temperature to brew coffee and extract the flavor. I agree that at 140F, I would expect crap coffee and I would be surprised to find a decent coffee maker that brews it at that temp. Also note that if you measure the temp in the carafe, it's going to be substantially below the temp where the water is in contact with the coffee. I use a french press and an electric kettle to brew mine. The kettle heats the water to boiling and then that combined with the coffee and the room temp french press puts it right around 200F. I measured my coffeepot (Krups) this morning - the brew and serve temperature is 180 F, not the 140 F I recalled. Now that I think about it, I measured the dishwasher water temperature around the same time, and it was 140 F for "Normal" wash, so I probably mixed the answers up. ...and McDs and DD brewed (and served if fresh) coffee at that same 180F. Now, thanks to the stupid old bag, one can't get a decent cup of coffee. Well, actually one can. McD has considerably improved their coffee since then (has nothing to do with the suit and everything to do with Starbucks). McD's is at least drinkable (Starbucks is not) but it's stone cold. Not around here it isn't. If it is where you are talk to the manager and if that doesn't work talk to corporate. Why would I do that? Just say "no" to McD's coffee. If they want to make crap they can keep it (and I, my money). If you aren't willing to address a problem that is unique to your location then don't complain about it. It's *not* unique. ...and no, I have no interest in fixing McD's problems when it's far easier to avoid them. Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. Not "near me". I don't go to McD's when I'm home. But yes, every time, except one, I've gotten coffee at McD's it's been warm, at best. |
#291
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 22:46:59 -0800, Gunner
wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:30:16 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Pour it into your lap for comparison Better. pour it into the lap of a 79YO granny. You need to get the calibration right. |
#292
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#293
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#294
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On 12/11/12 11:17 AM, z wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 6:37 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 3:08 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 11:53 AM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 3:19 PM, wrote: On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 11:45 AM, wrote: Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water. Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results. Good Lord, you're stupid. Better than being a stupid asshole. You certainly should know. I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water. Or even 160 degree. You really are an illiterate moron. Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem dribble. Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth. Congratulations, you win. Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling. Which is why I've grown tired of this debate. Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron is lonely. You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in self esteem. I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you. Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though. More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed. Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice. Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless moron. No surprise. This is really getting boring. Like I said, you really bad at trolling. Are you as bad at everything else as you are at this? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#295
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:31:13 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 07:47:21 -0600, " Attila Iskander" wrote: "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Darn. Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin, that uses "very hot" as a marker on it. But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car To Bunn, for example, on their commercial coffee server SH series http://www.bunn.com/pdfs/manuals/41976.0000.pdf The water temperature should be no less than 91°C (195°F) That's the brewing temperature. The serving temperature (the temperature in the carafe) will be somewhat lower. As I mentioned before DD's required their franchisees to keep the serving temperature at 180F +/-3F. It was one of the tests done during the on-site inspections. The first thing they would do is stick the thermometer into the coffee at the counter (not a freshly brewed pot). Are any of these things actually adjustable by the restaurant? By the restaurant, I believe at least some are. DD's franchisees were responsible for it. |
#296
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#297
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... Attila Iskander wrote: But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car Oh bull****! Everyone knows that "very hot" means she's the one who is going to forget everything you did together, after you marry her. Sheese... I believe you are discussing a different category of "very hot". |
#298
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... Attila Iskander wrote: "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message ... "J. Clarke" wrote: Apparently it is because there are four McDonalds mear me and the all serve decent coffee very hot. If it is being served cold near you then something is wrong. 'Very hot' is meaningless without proper measurement. Darn. Please identify the scale, you know like Fahrenheit, Celsius or Kelvin, that uses "very hot" as a marker on it. It's called the 'Close Enough' scale. Dang I forgot about that scale That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure. Right ? But to most people, "very hot" means you have to blow on it before putting it in your mouth, or you need protection before you pick it up, or you don't fiddle around with an open container between your knees while sitting in a car |
#299
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:25:24 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote: On 12/11/12 11:17 AM, z wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:28:27 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 6:37 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 16:33:37 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 3:08 PM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:10:17 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/10/12 11:53 AM, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 11:39:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 3:19 PM, wrote: On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:04:30 -0600, -MIKE- wrote: On 12/6/12 11:45 AM, wrote: Go get an accurate thermometer and drink some 180 degree water. Just please video record it so I can enjoy the results. Good Lord, you're stupid. Better than being a stupid asshole. You certainly should know. I'll be waiting the results of your attempt to drink 180 degree water. Or even 160 degree. You really are an illiterate moron. Yet, you refuse to show a shred of evidence or information to support your side of the debate. You, instead, choose call me names like an adolescent child. You have nothing to offer but ignorance and ad hominem dribble. Moron, others have posted the specifications for brewed coffee. I suppose you would believe them if I posted them? You didn't understand the first time so there's little hope you would the tenth. Congratulations, you win. Winnning anything from a complete moron isn't very fulfilling. Which is why I've grown tired of this debate. Because quite obviously you're a complete moron. I'm sure your neuron is lonely. You are not only very weak at trolling, but transparently lacking in self esteem. I don't know the reasons for that, but I truly feel sorry for you. Go ahead with your obvious and predictable reply, though. More evidence that you're a clueless moron, as if any were needed. Hey, that was almost verbatim to what I was predicting. Nice. Hey, so you, like everyone else, already knew you were a clueless moron. No surprise. This is really getting boring. More proof of your single-digit IQ. Continuing to do something that is that boring isn't very bright. Yet you will continue forever. No brain, no pain. Like I said, you really bad at trolling. Repeating yourself won't make you less of a liar, just a bigger one. Are you as bad at everything else as you are at this? Blush, Why, you honor me with your insults. Coming from you, they're high praise. Now run along. I think your mommy is calling. |
#300
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#301
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
Attila Iskander wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: It's called the 'Close Enough' scale. Dang I forgot about that scale That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure. Right ? Yep. it runs from Femtosmidgens to a Smidgen. then it becomes a 'Good enough for government work' at a trillion Smidgens. They are very sensitive to temperature, on a 20 dB log scale, too. |
#302
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
|
#303
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw... The truth
On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 14:09:28 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Attila Iskander wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: It's called the 'Close Enough' scale. Dang I forgot about that scale That's the one that also has "smidgens" as a unit of measure. Right ? Yep. it runs from Femtosmidgens to a Smidgen. then it becomes a 'Good enough for government work' at a trillion Smidgens. They are very sensitive to temperature, on a 20 dB log scale, too. ^5 !!!!!!!! Very well done! Gunner, with a new box of RCHs The methodology of the left has always been: 1. Lie 2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible 3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible 4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie 5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw 6. Then everyone must conform to the lie |
#304
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw...
On Dec 10, 1:02*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:24:00 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 9, 8:50*pm, wrote: On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 05:43:57 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 7, 8:56*am, wrote: On Fri, 7 Dec 2012 05:29:58 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 6, 5:18 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: On Dec 6, 11:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: On Dec 5, 2:50 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: You do realize that turning off the saw via the switch is very different from a power failure, right? Using the switch there is still power available to the protection circuitry. During a power failure there is not. A relay with it's coil across the power line when the switch is on will stop it, if the power fails. Or configure it with the common on/off power buttons as a simple motor controller. It will stop it in 1 ms? Or at least close enough to instantly to avoid injury, eh? You sure about that? You should go tell the SawStop guy what a simple, practical new invention you have. I say, it just doesn't work. No one claimed that it did, and you just want to whine. Excuse me, but try to follow the thread. The discussion was about the SawStop and what happens if power is lost. The claim was made that it still would work. Then someone claimed that you could just short the motor and use electromagnetic braking in case of power loss. The SawStop halts the saw in 1 ms. Excuse yourself. It doesn't do that when the power fails, and you're in the dark with a stil spinning blade. It's you that can't comprehend what is happening in this thread. I introduced the magnetic braking to stop the blade faster when the motor is turned off. I also told how to do it in the case of a power failure. It's not my fault that your mother used to let you play with plastic bags over your head, which caused all that brain damage.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Let's go back to your first post on this: Leon: 10+ years ago before the SawStop was in production I questioned Gass about this. *My TS accident happened after I finished a cut and had turned the saw off. *The blade was coasting down to a stop when I was cut. *I wanted to know back then it those bases were covered also. Michael: * A modification can be made to table saws with induction or split phase motors. *You change the power switch from SPST to SPDT, add a diode & electrolytic capacitor that charges when the motor is running. When you switch the motor off, the capacitor discharges through the motor, causing a rapid braking effect. *This can't be done with universal motors, since they will run on DC. In the first sentence of the post you replied to, Leon said "I questioned Gass about this." * The "this" he was referring to was the issue if the SawStop still worked in the event of a power fail. * So, that was the context. *And in posts before that, others had suggested adding a cap to the SawStop so that it would work when power was lost. However, Leon's problem came in the spin-down which wouldn't necessarily require the SS hardware. It started with Leon saying this: "If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power. Yes the stop will work if the saw is turned off. " The "stop" Leon was talking about was the SawStop. That was then changed to include normal spin-down, without a power fail. * Whether you had the safety protection of SawStop in those events. *leon was checking to see what SS does in those cases. SawStop halts the saw in 1ms, apparently the timeframe you need to avoid injury if you're about to hit the blade with your finger. ...and Leon explained his accident elsewhere. *SawStop was *NOT* needed to save blood. I don't care or know if Leon explained "his" accident somewhere else. *Like most people, I'm not a mind reader. *I just read his post in the context immediately preceeding it. I was giving you "the rest of the story", since you weren't bright enough to pick up on it the first time. ...and yes, a blade brake would *COMPLETELY* solve the problem as stated. So, first, absent some extraordinary electromagnetic braking design, I say you're not going to halt the saw in the 1ms timeframe, that is fast enough to prevent an injury if you shove your finger into the spinnng blade. *NO ONE* said you would. *Stop putting words in people's mouths (something which you're exceedingly good at). Go **** yourself. Sorry that you don't like the truth. *It is still the truth. *Leon wanted to know if they'd covered this case. Yes, the case he was talking about was if SawStop would work in power loss or normal spin-down, Wouldn't have saved him in his accident. Again, if he had included "his accident, his parameters", then we wouldn't be here. *He posted in a thread about SawStop and by context it implied his remarks were in that regard. * He seems to be ok with it? *What are you] now his argumentative little asshole defender? I don't have any idea how big is asshole is but you've demonstrated that you're consumed by yours. Why is it that you have to take almost every discussion that you participate down this kind of path? * I explained my perspective, yet you INSIST that the way YOU happened to interpret the post is the ONLY acceptable way. *WTF is wrong with you? [..../] *IRONY Idiot. *I was explaining the issue to you and you turned into your normal assholiness. *I expected it and wasn't disappointed.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Anyone can go back and look at the thread. The poster I replied to was not clear whether they were referring to adding electromagnetic braking for coast-down with a SawStop or without it. Given that the bulk of the thread was about SawStop, I interpreted it to mean adding it to the saw with SawStop. You interpreted it another way. I explained why I interpreted it the way I did. I didn't say that was the only interpretation. I also agreed with, I think, every point you made. And I did it politely. Instead of just accepting that, you started with the snide remarks and insults, as is so typical from you. Over what? Nothing factual about SawStop. Nothing factual about anything. Just your continued insistance that there is only one way to interpret that post which was unclear and that anyone who didn't interpret it that way is an idiot. Just look at all the similar threads where you do exactly the same thing, at all the vile arguments you spawn here. As I've said, you've obviously got some real issues. |
#305
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 05:39:50 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Dec 10, 1:02*pm, wrote: On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 07:24:00 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 9, 8:50*pm, wrote: On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 05:43:57 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 7, 8:56*am, wrote: On Fri, 7 Dec 2012 05:29:58 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 6, 5:18 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: On Dec 6, 11:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: On Dec 5, 2:50 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: " wrote: You do realize that turning off the saw via the switch is very different from a power failure, right? Using the switch there is still power available to the protection circuitry. During a power failure there is not. A relay with it's coil across the power line when the switch is on will stop it, if the power fails. Or configure it with the common on/off power buttons as a simple motor controller. It will stop it in 1 ms? Or at least close enough to instantly to avoid injury, eh? You sure about that? You should go tell the SawStop guy what a simple, practical new invention you have. I say, it just doesn't work. No one claimed that it did, and you just want to whine. Excuse me, but try to follow the thread. The discussion was about the SawStop and what happens if power is lost. The claim was made that it still would work. Then someone claimed that you could just short the motor and use electromagnetic braking in case of power loss. The SawStop halts the saw in 1 ms. Excuse yourself. It doesn't do that when the power fails, and you're in the dark with a stil spinning blade. It's you that can't comprehend what is happening in this thread. I introduced the magnetic braking to stop the blade faster when the motor is turned off. I also told how to do it in the case of a power failure. It's not my fault that your mother used to let you play with plastic bags over your head, which caused all that brain damage.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Let's go back to your first post on this: Leon: 10+ years ago before the SawStop was in production I questioned Gass about this. *My TS accident happened after I finished a cut and had turned the saw off. *The blade was coasting down to a stop when I was cut. *I wanted to know back then it those bases were covered also. Michael: * A modification can be made to table saws with induction or split phase motors. *You change the power switch from SPST to SPDT, add a diode & electrolytic capacitor that charges when the motor is running. When you switch the motor off, the capacitor discharges through the motor, causing a rapid braking effect. *This can't be done with universal motors, since they will run on DC. In the first sentence of the post you replied to, Leon said "I questioned Gass about this." * The "this" he was referring to was the issue if the SawStop still worked in the event of a power fail. * So, that was the context. *And in posts before that, others had suggested adding a cap to the SawStop so that it would work when power was lost. However, Leon's problem came in the spin-down which wouldn't necessarily require the SS hardware. It started with Leon saying this: "If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power. Yes the stop will work if the saw is turned off. " The "stop" Leon was talking about was the SawStop. That was then changed to include normal spin-down, without a power fail. * Whether you had the safety protection of SawStop in those events. *leon was checking to see what SS does in those cases. SawStop halts the saw in 1ms, apparently the timeframe you need to avoid injury if you're about to hit the blade with your finger. ...and Leon explained his accident elsewhere. *SawStop was *NOT* needed to save blood. I don't care or know if Leon explained "his" accident somewhere else. *Like most people, I'm not a mind reader. *I just read his post in the context immediately preceeding it. I was giving you "the rest of the story", since you weren't bright enough to pick up on it the first time. ...and yes, a blade brake would *COMPLETELY* solve the problem as stated. So, first, absent some extraordinary electromagnetic braking design, I say you're not going to halt the saw in the 1ms timeframe, that is fast enough to prevent an injury if you shove your finger into the spinnng blade. *NO ONE* said you would. *Stop putting words in people's mouths (something which you're exceedingly good at). Go **** yourself. Sorry that you don't like the truth. *It is still the truth. *Leon wanted to know if they'd covered this case. Yes, the case he was talking about was if SawStop would work in power loss or normal spin-down, Wouldn't have saved him in his accident. Again, if he had included "his accident, his parameters", then we wouldn't be here. *He posted in a thread about SawStop and by context it implied his remarks were in that regard. * He seems to be ok with it? *What are you] now his argumentative little asshole defender? I don't have any idea how big is asshole is but you've demonstrated that you're consumed by yours. Why is it that you have to take almost every discussion that you participate down this kind of path? * I explained my perspective, yet you INSIST that the way YOU happened to interpret the post is the ONLY acceptable way. *WTF is wrong with you? [..../] *IRONY Idiot. *I was explaining the issue to you and you turned into your normal assholiness. *I expected it and wasn't disappointed.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Anyone can go back and look at the thread. The poster I replied to was not clear whether they were referring to adding electromagnetic braking for coast-down with a SawStop or without it. Given that the bulk of the thread was about SawStop, I interpreted it to mean adding it to the saw with SawStop. You interpreted it another way. I explained why I interpreted it the way I did. I didn't say that was the only interpretation. I also agreed with, I think, every point you made. And I did it politely. Bull****. YOu got into your regular snit when I explained the situation to you. You *really* don't like it when there is another way of looking at a problem. ...an amazing quality for an engineer. Instead of just accepting that, you started with the snide remarks and insults, as is so typical from you. Over what? Nothing factual about SawStop. Nothing factual about anything. Just your continued insistance that there is only one way to interpret that post which was unclear and that anyone who didn't interpret it that way is an idiot. The portion of the thread was moving away from SS, towards a better solution for the problem at hand. Just look at all the similar threads where you do exactly the same thing, at all the vile arguments you spawn here. As I've said, you've obviously got some real issues. ....and I've said it before, you're full of ****. You just CAN'T STAND being told that you're wrong. You won't even think (forget outside the box) for a minute. Engineer, my ass. |
#306
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw...
|
#307
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
An idiot and his table saw...
On 12/5/2012 8:47 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 12/4/2012 11:38 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/4/2012 4:56 PM, Red Green wrote: dpb wrote in : On 12/4/2012 12:33 PM, dpb wrote: [snip] Let's see, power goes out, lights go out, hand reduces down/forward pressure, wood kicks, fingers hit hot dog blade that's spinnning full bore, ooops! no electricity to sense, fingers splat on back wall. Wonder if hot dog man has that one covered? If the saw was running, it will stop if there is a loss of power. Yes the stop will work if the saw is turned off. Capacitor Do you know that for a fact, Leon or is that speculation? Yes, a capacitor could be used to discharge the SawStop mechanism but I'm wondering if it's also set up (assuming that this is NOT a speculative solution) to power the sensing circuitry. Yes I know this for a fact, I did the research. Power goes off what powers the motor? According to Sawstop the protection will probably be available for a second or two. Past that you are on your own. If you are cutting wood when power is lost any saw will stop faster. If there is no power loss but the saw motor is turned off the protection continues through coast down. In any event, strike your phrase "if the saw is turned off" as erroneous and/or misleading. If the saw is turned off, how would you ever change the blade without the device triggering. Better to say "even with a loss of power" (if such is truly the case). NO do not strike the phrase if the saw is turned off. Just because the saw is turned off does not mean that the blade is not spinning... I cut half my thumb off after turning my saw off and reaching to remove the rip fence after performing a dado cut.20 years ago. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Sometimes I'm an idiot | Metalworking | |||
I'm such an idiot! | Home Repair | |||
Idiot needs help | UK diy | |||
I'm an idiot--router table department | Woodworking |