I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Cheers,
Bill

On 6/26/2012 5:57 PM, Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Cheers,
Bill


I can not comment on most of your question, but I have an opinion on the
workbench.

About 15 years ago I built a work bench out of White wood 2X4 and
plywood. The 2X4 joints are all half lapped, and the plywood top is
rabbeted into the 2X4 that create the perimeter of the top.

I varnish the whole thing, and I am completely satisfied with the
results. Today after all of these years the workbench looks nearly as
good as it did when I finished it. If build an new one or refinish this
one I word go the varnish route

On 6/26/2012 4:57 PM, Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box, lying
on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his fingers
too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw and I
wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Cheers,
Bill


If you use a "GEL" wipe on varnish dust is pretty much a non issue
providing you don't purposely put dust on it. Dry to touch in 10 or
minutes.

Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.


Why?

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! :
)

You are more than desperate. You are bordering on absurd. Just take the
thing out into your garage and finish it. Do we really need to turn this
into another round of Bill's questions?


BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard
Maple, and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a
good learning opportunity and I would like it to make a good
impression on my woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm
trying to "sell" on woodworking). Considering what the piece looks
like now, about 3 hours after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy
cuts), I feel fortunate (or lucky) that it has come out as well as it
did! That was the first time I used my bandsaw on a project too.


Well - good for you in getting that bandsaw into use! I bet it felt good
for you, and it should.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question.
Should any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench
(I'm reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

Have you even read the Scotch-Guard can to see what it is intended to be
used on?


P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table
saw and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )


If you think his fingers are too close, then just keep yours further away.
Not so difficult.

--

-Mike-

In article , says...

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.

Any reasonably clean area it good enough for finishing your project.
If you do think there may be a dust issue, like the wind blowing dust
onto the area, use the garden hose, on fine mist setting, and spray a
small area to keep the dust down and from drifting near the work area.

Sonny

On 6/26/2012 4:57 PM, Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Cheers,
Bill

Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
than that.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.


Why?


When I was reading about applying a polyurethane finish, there was
a great deal of concern about dust (specks), etc. I just wanted to
try to get it right. It's not like I didn't do some homework on
finishing with polyurethane before posting. If I had, I might have
ended up with the gel Leon suggested instead of Minwax "wipe on" poly
product. I haven't investigated the gel, but I do suspect that what I
bought will give me a suitable finish.

Does that answer your question?

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question.
Should any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench
(I'm reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

Have you even read the Scotch-Guard can to see what it is intended to be
used on?

You took my analogy too literally. Relax a little.



P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table
saw and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )


If you think his fingers are too close, then just keep yours further away.
Not so difficult.

Gosh.

Mike Marlow wrote:

Do we really need to turn this
into another round of Bill's questions?

At least they were on topic. You're the one that is making this personal.

J. Clarke wrote:

Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.


Thank you very much. I printed off a procedure that is a little more
complicated (for instance, including sanding with 320 grit or steel wool
after the 2nd coat), but your confidence makes me optimistic!
I bought a tack rag anyway!

Actually, when I first started reading about the poly application--it
made me consider dispensing with the whole idea of finishing it at all,
but then I realized that doing that would be compromising both my
project and myself (my opportunity to get a useful finishing experience).

Cheers,
Bill

Gramp's shop wrote:

Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
than that.



Yes, I found Dr. Deb's post and realized it was the one that triggered
me into thinking I should provide some finish. Thanks!

Bill

Gramp's shop wrote:

Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
than that.


Yep, beautiful work!

Bill wrote in :


I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

What's so bad about it? A morton building with a dirt floor and open door
would be a terrible place, but the garage with concrete floor not so much.
Just don't go making a bunch of sawdust or do a bunch of cleaning with the
air compressor.

*snip*


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
picture after I painted it! Ha!

I applied shellac smoothed with steel wool and wax to mine. It made the
top smooth and sorta slick, which is good for a table saw infeed table but
not necessarily good for a work bench.

The nice thing about shop furniture is that it doesn't need a finish. The
other nice thing is that you won't enjoy it less if the finish is done
poorly.

*snip*


Cheers,
Bill




--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.


Why?


When I was reading about applying a polyurethane finish, there was
a great deal of concern about dust (specks), etc. I just wanted to
try to get it right. It's not like I didn't do some homework on
finishing with polyurethane before posting. If I had, I might have
ended up with the gel Leon suggested instead of Minwax "wipe on" poly
product. I haven't investigated the gel, but I do suspect that what
I bought will give me a suitable finish.

Does that answer your question?

Sure did, but don't let the matter of dust get too big in your mind. You
can easily finish wood in what you might think is too dusty an environment.
A little clean up, a little time for everything to settle, maybe a mist of
water as someone else suggested, and you'd be surprised at how quickly that
dust is not the issue you feared it may be. Even if you do get a little
dust in your finish, a little light sanding and polishing and you're good to
go.

--

-Mike-

Puckdropper wrote:

The nice thing about shop furniture is that it doesn't need a finish. The
other nice thing is that you won't enjoy it less if the finish is done
poorly.

*snip*

Yes, I weighed the pros and cons of finishing the bench after reading
about BLO and decided to just leave well enough alone for the time
being. It's not like I have some fine hardwood I wish to highlight.

Concerning the small project I am going to finish: This IS some drywall
dust in my shop, since some things are "under construction". I guess I
just got a little paranoid after reading the writings of people who were
uptight about the whole process (I too have gotten dust in my varnish
before, under better conditions than I have now). Having had a few more
hours to think about it however, my process will be better--I will tape
up the parts I don't want to get finish on and use duck tape to bound my
piece to a short length of EMT, or whatever else is handy. I'd pound
that EMT into the ground like a stake but we have a lot of low flying
birds in the area--and/or someone might tell me that doing so violates
the NEC! ; )

I learned plenty about finishes today. But, I left some for another day.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:

Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.


Thank you very much. I printed off a procedure that is a little more
complicated (for instance, including sanding with 320 grit or steel
wool after the 2nd coat), but your confidence makes me optimistic!
I bought a tack rag anyway!

A tack rag is always a good idea. Just be careful not to apply any pressure
when wiping with one. You don't want to deposit anything from the rag to
the wood. A light wipe is what you are after.


Actually, when I first started reading about the poly application--it
made me consider dispensing with the whole idea of finishing it at
all, but then I realized that doing that would be compromising both my
project and myself (my opportunity to get a useful finishing
experience).

Why? (dispense with the idea)

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:


Concerning the small project I am going to finish: This IS some
drywall dust in my shop, since some things are "under construction".
I guess I just got a little paranoid after reading the writings of
people who were uptight about the whole process (I too have gotten
dust in my varnish before, under better conditions than I have now).
Having had a few more hours to think about it however, my process
will be better--I will tape up the parts I don't want to get finish
on and use duck tape to bound my piece to a short length of EMT, or
whatever else is handy.

I'd use wire to hang it instead of duct tape. It does not have to be any
more secure than what is necessary to make it secure, and there is no
adhesive mess left behind with wire. Don't be afraid to use paper - even
newspaper, to mask off areas you don't want to get finish on. The less tape
you use, the better - the happier you will be afterwards. Fortunately, with
hand applications you have much more control over where the finish goes than
you do with spray applications.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote in :


I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in :


I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate!
: )

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
the surface with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber
cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at
nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the microfiber cloth.
You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

And... if you want a high gloss shine, just rub it down with buffing
compound after the 1000 grit. It's available at auto parts stores as well.
It will take some elbow grease to get 1000 grit scratches out with buffing
compound, but it's a labor of love. You can get a small buffing wheel that
will chuck into your cordless drill that will make that work much easier.
Just be very careful around edges when using a buffing wheel. You don't
want to burn through your finish. Hit the edges by hand. You can use an
old Tee shirt or terry cloth towels for the hand buffing.

Doug is right - you can turn out a glass like finish this way - if that's
what you are after.

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote in message
...

I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. This is my first time around on this.

The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible candidate.
How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box, lying on it's
side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
used my bandsaw on a project too.


P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm reminded
of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm tempted to
just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a picture after I
painted it! Ha!

P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his fingers
too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw and I
wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Cheers,
Bill


With respect to the polyurethane issue:
A clean area is all that you need. It need not be a class 10,000 clean
room. Because polyurethane is a slow drying finish, you will always get
some dust nibs embedded in it. I simple dust all the horizontal surfaces in
my work area including the floor, let things settle for about fifteen
minutes, and then mist the floor with water to hold down any dust that might
get kicked up. Whenever I apply polyurethane, I always lightly sand every
coat to remove the nibs before applying the next coat. The top coat is the
one that requires rubbing out. This process will remove any last nibs and
can result in a smooth mirror finish if you put the time into it. If not,
you will have a very smooth finish that may have a few dust nibs but nothing
like the first coat.

Good Luck.

Doug Miller wrote:

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.

While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Thanks,
Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
the surface with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber
cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at
nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the microfiber cloth.
You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

And... if you want a high gloss shine, just rub it down with buffing
compound after the 1000 grit. It's available at auto parts stores as well.
It will take some elbow grease to get 1000 grit scratches out with buffing
compound, but it's a labor of love. You can get a small buffing wheel that
will chuck into your cordless drill that will make that work much easier.
Just be very careful around edges when using a buffing wheel. You don't
want to burn through your finish. Hit the edges by hand. You can use an
old Tee shirt or terry cloth towels for the hand buffing.

Doug is right - you can turn out a glass like finish this way - if that's
what you are after.

Thank you for sharing. I don't need "$1000 finish" this time, but it's
nice to know how to get one!

Bill

Bill wrote:


Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
coat.

No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very well.
Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we used. Works
just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works any better - it's just
the rage of the age.


While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it,
helping to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might
actually want to use water, if I was following the procedure Doug
outlined, just to keep the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of
this?

For one - don't worry about the difference between 320 aluminum oxide and
320 silicon carbide. Not enough difference to worry about. Wet sanding is
generally better than dry sanding because it carries away the grit that you
create, but that too is not an absolute. You can dry sand very well. Just
be careful to watch for you paper loading up and creating scratches. Even
wet will do that, but not as quickly. It's not a matter of one over the
other, as much as it is your watchful eye. Both techniques will serve you
well. I turn out mirror finish paint jobs on cars and I use both
techniques, depending on circumstances. You can do the same with wood.


--

-Mike-

On 6/27/2012 2:29 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts
store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.

While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Thanks,
Bill


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
them on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over on
the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood them
on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

My shoulders are aching just reading this. The heat ran me out of the shop
around 3 ... not as hot outside as yesterday, but 104 in the shop.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

Leon wrote:


I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to
the top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6
cabinet backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When
finished with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints
and stood them on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters
and skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much
less.

Ok - you peaked my interest! What is this miracle varnish? No dry time
before flipping them over? I'm liking the sounds of that. Hard to believe,
but I'm game - tell me more.

--

-Mike-

On 6/27/2012 4:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over on
the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood them
on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

My shoulders are aching just reading this. The heat ran me out of the shop
around 3 ... not as hot outside as yesterday, but 104 in the shop.


LOL I for got to mention that I gave ease surface a "double" wipe down
with t-shirt tags to remove excess varnish but that only to a few
moments. I saw 99 in the shop but with the fan blosing directly on me I
was able to do all the pieces non stop in about 2.5 hours. Just checked
their drying progress and the first ones are ready to be recoated.

On 6/27/2012 6:37 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/27/2012 4:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them
over on
the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
them
on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

My shoulders are aching just reading this. The heat ran me out of the
shop
around 3 ... not as hot outside as yesterday, but 104 in the shop.


LOL I for got to mention that I gave ease surface a "double" wipe down
with t-shirt tags to remove excess varnish but that only to a few
moments. I saw 99 in the shop but with the fan blosing directly on me I
was able to do all the pieces non stop in about 2.5 hours. Just checked
their drying progress and the first ones are ready to be recoated.

Whenever I try that the fan dries the stain/varnish too quickly. Then
again, my fan has only category 4 and category 5 hurricane settings.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 6/27/2012 4:52 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to
the top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6
cabinet backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When
finished with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints
and stood them on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters
and skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much
less.

Ok - you peaked my interest! What is this miracle varnish? No dry time
before flipping them over? I'm liking the sounds of that. Hard to believe,
but I'm game - tell me more.


Ok here is the link and the instructions, the way I do it. I use a blue
"Scotts" shop paper towel cut in half and folded to make an applicator
about 1"x2" I apply the gel varnish liberally but not so much that I
have lumps of excess on the surface. Do only about a 1~1.5 square foot
area and immediately wipe smooth with a t-shirt material rag, about 18"
square. Precede to finish the surface in the same 1-1.5 square feet at
a time. If your first wipe down rag gets saturated relatively early you
are applying too much varnish. Put down too little varnish and it
becomes a tedious task. You will get the hang of it.

When finished with that surface, "wipe it down a second time" with
"another clean t-shirt rag of similar size. Use the first for initial
wipe down use the second for second wipe down. Eventually the first
will get pretty saturated. The second will remain relatively clean.

Flip the piece over and do the other side. No worries about the freshly
varnished surface. Repeat about 4 hours later 2~3 times.

NOTE! Be absolutely certain you do not skip the step of the second wipe
down when the panel is completely covered and wiped down the first time
of it could take 2~3 days to dry. DAMHIKT! It took me until my 3rd
quart to realize how that works. ;~)

Dust is not a problem and subsequent coats go on with out prep.


http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...lbasedpoly.htm

Expensive, about $23 per quart but if your time is valuable and you want
a "satin" finish that is consistent and smooth as a baby's butt you
might find it money well spent. I buy it locally from a paint company a
case at a time for $16 per quart. I have been using gel varnishes
almost exclusively for about 23 years and this stuff is the best so far.

On 6/27/2012 6:48 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/27/2012 6:37 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/27/2012 4:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6
cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them
over on
the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
them
on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters
and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

My shoulders are aching just reading this. The heat ran me out of the
shop
around 3 ... not as hot outside as yesterday, but 104 in the shop.


LOL I for got to mention that I gave ease surface a "double" wipe down
with t-shirt tags to remove excess varnish but that only to a few
moments. I saw 99 in the shop but with the fan blosing directly on me I
was able to do all the pieces non stop in about 2.5 hours. Just checked
their drying progress and the first ones are ready to be recoated.

Whenever I try that the fan dries the stain/varnish too quickly. Then
again, my fan has only category 4 and category 5 hurricane settings.



Yes! that will happen if the fan is plowing on the surface, apply less,
a smaller section and wipe down immediately. The clue here is if the
first wiping rag is grabby you need to work smaller sections. Wait 2~5
minutes for the second wipe down with another clean rag. Stains are a
little trickier to get a consistent color coverage but clear varnish is
a snap. My neighbor is buying the current book cases and I showed her
how simple the varnish was to apply, her jaw hit the floor.

This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.


This one
GEL VARNISH

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

Leon wrote:


Ok here is the link and the instructions, the way I do it. I use a
blue "Scotts" shop paper towel cut in half and folded to make an
applicator about 1"x2" I apply the gel varnish liberally but not so
much that I have lumps of excess on the surface. Do only about a
1~1.5 square foot area and immediately wipe smooth with a t-shirt
material rag, about 18" square. Precede to finish the surface in the
same 1-1.5 square feet at a time. If your first wipe down rag gets
saturated relatively early you are applying too much varnish. Put
down too little varnish and it becomes a tedious task. You will get
the hang of it.
When finished with that surface, "wipe it down a second time" with
"another clean t-shirt rag of similar size. Use the first for initial
wipe down use the second for second wipe down. Eventually the first
will get pretty saturated. The second will remain relatively clean.

Flip the piece over and do the other side. No worries about the
freshly varnished surface. Repeat about 4 hours later 2~3 times.

NOTE! Be absolutely certain you do not skip the step of the second
wipe down when the panel is completely covered and wiped down the
first time of it could take 2~3 days to dry. DAMHIKT! It took me
until my 3rd quart to realize how that works. ;~)

Dust is not a problem and subsequent coats go on with out prep.


http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...lbasedpoly.htm

Expensive, about $23 per quart but if your time is valuable and you
want a "satin" finish that is consistent and smooth as a baby's butt
you might find it money well spent. I buy it locally from a paint
company a case at a time for $16 per quart. I have been using gel
varnishes almost exclusively for about 23 years and this stuff is the
best so far.

I'm impressed. I would not have expected a poly to dry that fast.

--

-Mike-

Leon wrote:
This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.


This one
GEL VARNISH

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

Still impressed by the drying times you're getting.

--

-Mike-

On 6/27/2012 4:30 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/27/2012 2:29 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts
store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
coat.

While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Thanks,
Bill


A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
them on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.







I have been varnishing the interior woodwork on my sailboat and only
have a single wall and some trim left to do. But no varnish left.

I think I'll give your Old MAsters Gel a try See what that's like.

Bill wrote in :

Doug Miller wrote:

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat.
Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth.

No, not at all. It's completely different stuff:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microfiber

Get some true microfiber cloth, e.g.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...ths-68440.html

then wipe down a freshly-sanded piece with a t-shirt until you're convinced you have
removed all the sawdust -- then wipe it again with the microfiber cloth. You will be
astonished at how much dust remained after you were sure it was all gone.

Always wash your microfiber cloths *by hand*. Put one in the laundry just once, and you'll
discover that it picks up lint just as readily as it picks up sawdust.

I've got a tack rag too.

So do I -- somewhere. I haven't used it since the first time I tried microfiber cloth, as
suggested by someone else here so long ago I've forgotten who or when. Probably close
to ten years.

I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.

Alcohol will raise the grain of the wood somewhat, not as much as water does, but still
noticeably. You may not be happy with the results.

A vacuum cleaner does a pretty good job of lifting dust from the pores of the wood. But you
still should use a microfiber cloth afterward.

While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal.

Or plastic. It also works just fine on wood, and it's what I normally use for sanding between
coats of varnish.

Also note that grades finer than 320 are not widely available in anything but silicon carbide.
I've only rarely seen 600-grit aluminum oxide or garnet, and I've *never* seen it in 800 or
higher. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist, though. :-)

I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
to keep the paper free of dust.

That's not an issue when sanding varnish between coats: a quarter-sheet of wet-or-dry
paper, *used dry*, will easily take care of 2 or 3 square feet of wood -- as long as the
varnish is dry. If the sandpaper loads uniformly with fine dust, that's great; if it loads in spots
with little clumps of varnish, you need to let it dry longer. If the varnish is the least bit sticky to
the touch, it's not ready to sand.

I might guess I might actually want to
use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Yes -- no water. The paper will stay usable long enough, and if you're using wipe-on poly
you don't want water anywhere your project until you have at least three or four coats on it.
The stuff gives a much thinner coat than brushed poly or sprayed lacquer, and a single
application is *not* waterproof.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:3459$4feb74bd
:

Bill wrote:


Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
coat.

No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very well.
Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we used. Works
just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works any better - it's just
the rage of the age.

Oh, yes, it does. Try the experiment I suggested to Bill: wipe a freshly-sanded workpiece
with a tee-shirt, as many times as you want. Then wipe it again with a microfiber cloth, and
see how much sawdust the tee-shirt missed.

Doug Miller wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
news:3459$4feb74bd :

Bill wrote:


Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the
first coat.

No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very
well. Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we
used. Works just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works
any better - it's just the rage of the age.

Oh, yes, it does. Try the experiment I suggested to Bill: wipe a
freshly-sanded workpiece with a tee-shirt, as many times as you want.
Then wipe it again with a microfiber cloth, and see how much sawdust
the tee-shirt missed.

I will try that. I do use micro fiber but I use it to wipe finishes off to
a really nice shine - whether they are wood or metal finishes. I had never
really noticed any real difference in dust pickup, but then again I was
never really looking at that.

--

-Mike-

On Jun 26, 5:57*pm, Bill wrote:
I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
small project. *This is my first time around on this.

Thin coats, let soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe
back until almost dry. You'll need more coats, but the
few dust specks that manage to stick can be cut back
easily with 400 - 600 wet dry or wool.

On Jun 27, 8:26*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Leon wrote:
This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.

This one
GEL VARNISH

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

Still impressed by the drying times you're getting.

Shellac is 5 seconds dry time if you apply it by French
polish technique. To be expected, since each coat
is well under a thousandth of an inch thick -- or at least
seems that thin.