I've built a chest of drawers, and am almost to the finishing stages. The
drawer sides are also the points at which the drawers slide, and I was
wondering if I should apply polyurethane to the sides and then a coat of
wax. The top part of the drawer side may be exposed, but the bottom part
would not.

Is it worth my time to apply poly to the sides, or would just plain paste
wax be fine?

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

I vote just wax, also. I use Tre-Wax for that type of raw wood
application.

Sonny

Sonny wrote in news:8894734c-aa05-413e-af42-
:

I vote just wax, also. I use Tre-Wax for that type of raw wood
application.

Sonny

Looks like I'll be going with just wax. I've had good results with just
wax in smaller drawers (they only support up to a pound), but was wondering
if poly+wax would make a definite quality difference. I've got to do the
rest of the piece, so the additional cost is fairly low.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Is it worth my time to apply poly to the sides, or would just plain paste
wax be fine?

Not sure I fully understand but a common rule of film finishes is to
cover all surfaces equally so moisture absorbtion and experation are
equal at all sides to avoid cupping.

So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside
should also.

On Apr 23, 9:43*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Is it worth my time to apply poly to the sides, or would just plain paste
wax be fine?

Wax is a waste of time as a protectant. If you are going to wax, just
brush it off and be done.

Not sure I fully understand but a common rule of film finishes is to
cover all surfaces equally so moisture absorbtion and experation are
equal at all sides to avoid cupping.

So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside
should also.

BINGO!! The bells are ringing!! We have a winner, folks.

That couldn't be more spot on.

Robert

On 04/23/2010 09:43 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Not sure I fully understand but a common rule of film finishes is to
cover all surfaces equally so moisture absorbtion and experation are
equal at all sides to avoid cupping.

So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside
should also.

While it's a common rule, it's also not strictly necessary. If you look
at old chests of drawers it's very common to see only the show surfaces
actually finished. The interior of the chest and the drawers themselves
were often left unfinished.

Since normally a chest of drawers has the drawers closed, you won't get
a lot of air movement over the unfinished surfaces, so the amount of
imbalance is much less than the bottom of a table top. (And even there
I've seen unfinished bottoms.)

Finally, it's generally not a good idea to use an oil-based finish of
any kind (BLO/tung/danish oil/varnish) inside a case piece. It takes
forever to cure to the point that it stops offgassing. While you can
leave the wood bare, I prefer to use shellac or lacquer on the inside of
drawers because they dry quickly and are easily sanded smooth so that
clothes don't "catch" on the wood.

Chris

So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside
should also.
....
Since normally a chest of drawers has the drawers closed, you won't get
a lot of air movement over the unfinished surfaces, so the amount of
imbalance is much less than the bottom of a table top. *(And even there
I've seen unfinished bottoms.)

Yep, had the same thought and was just speaking theory. For my own
work I take the extra time to finish all sides just for consistency
and a finer finish. I love wood but bare wood is closer to lumber than
furniture in my estimation and can stain, pickup body oils, and be
prone to problems if some water based accident occurs.

On 23 Apr 2010 15:12:43 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

Sonny wrote in news:8894734c-aa05-413e-af42-
:

I vote just wax, also. I use Tre-Wax for that type of raw wood
application.

Sonny

Looks like I'll be going with just wax. I've had good results with just
wax in smaller drawers (they only support up to a pound), but was wondering
if poly+wax would make a definite quality difference. I've got to do the
rest of the piece, so the additional cost is fairly low.

Polyurinestain is not a lube.

Waxes are.

Waxes will soak into the pores of the wood (only if -not- choked with
poly) and provide continued slickness even after the original coating
is rubbed off.

Any questions?

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:30:58 -0700 (PDT), the infamous
" scrawled the
following:

On Apr 23, 9:43*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Is it worth my time to apply poly to the sides, or would just plain paste
wax be fine?

Wax is a waste of time as a protectant. If you are going to wax, just
brush it off and be done.

I thought he was wanting a lube.


Not sure I fully understand but a common rule of film finishes is to
cover all surfaces equally so moisture absorbtion and experation are
equal at all sides to avoid cupping.

So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside
should also.

BINGO!! The bells are ringing!! We have a winner, folks.

That couldn't be more spot on.

Ah, but that's only half the battle.

Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is
NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's
horrible odors and invariable stickiness.

Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask
any wooddorker for the past 400 years.

Did I ever tell you about my trip to an Etherized Allen showroom ca
2000? I saw a nice little $2,850 (um, what was that thing?) Federal
highboy. When I opened the center drawer, it no only stuck, it
chattered loudly enough that every eye in the place, both store
workers and browsers, was on me. I laughed, shook my head in disgust,
and closed it with nearly the same noise. Several of the drawers were
like that. A little bit of paraffin would have sold that thing to the
few interested people, but since they hadn't bothered, it chattered
loudly. Before going into that store, I had admired the name. Now I
know better. In other pieces, drawers had half an inch of side slop.
Dovies were all machine cut. I suspect now that the pieces I saw were
early ChiwanIndPakiese imports. You'd have to ask M. Farooq Kathwari,
the CEO, about that.

P.S: The EA store didn't impress me after all.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 23 Apr 2010 15:08:56 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

*trim and snip*

Just wait until you get to paints. Some of them are worse than
polyurethane ever thought of being!

Uh, please 'splain this to me.

--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

I got some Rustoleum external door paint. That stuff is nasty. The
smell is horrid, and the off gassing chemicals gave me a headache.
That's after using it in a reasonably well ventilated area (garshop with
the windows open) and only applying a little bit.

The poly doesn't smell too bad, and can stand being applied in the garage
with the windows open. Some of the smell can be killed by lighting a
candle (but not too close to the work area!)

I'll open and use the poly again, but not the paint.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

I've always thought a reasonable quality of secondary wood, for drawer
sides, back & bottoms, is not going to warp or check because of
exposure over a long period of time. If the wood is of poor grade,
then the individual pieces, that small (dimensions), may develope
problems for drawer function.

I've always thought the simplest, easiest, least expensive,
essentially universal, time tested, best fix for lubricating wood-on-
wood is wax. To me, to ponder the issue, for another fix, is an
exercise in an attempt at overkill, which probably won't work as
efficiently as wax, anyway. What I have considered is 'what is the
best wax to use'.

I don't recommend using a melted, scented candle wax that has re-
solidified. For some reason, it seems to be different than the
original chemistry and results in a chalk type application, rather
than a smooth, waxy application. Maybe it's the scent ingredient that
makes for this chalk effect.

Additional to the lubrication issue: I don't use paint or poly on the
insides of drawers, but I do spray lacquer.... quick, easy, cures fast
and basically its only function is to give the inside a "finished",
esthetically pleasing surface, rather than remaining raw wood.

Sonny

On 24 Apr 2010 03:06:06 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 23 Apr 2010 15:08:56 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

*trim and snip*

Just wait until you get to paints. Some of them are worse than
polyurethane ever thought of being!

Uh, please 'splain this to me.

--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

I got some Rustoleum external door paint. That stuff is nasty. The
smell is horrid, and the off gassing chemicals gave me a headache.
That's after using it in a reasonably well ventilated area (garshop with
the windows open) and only applying a little bit.

When I was painting the interior of the back house my client and I are
fixing up, he was painting the trim with Rustoleum. Talk about
solvent fumes! That stuff really is nasty. The tenants moved in 6
weeks later and the place still reeked of the Rustoleum.


The poly doesn't smell too bad, and can stand being applied in the garage
with the windows open. Some of the smell can be killed by lighting a
candle (but not too close to the work area!)

Right. Can you say BABOOM! ? I knew you could. 'Course, a candle
next to the Rustoleum might do it some good. Burn out the odor, wot?


I'll open and use the poly again, but not the paint.

Gotcha, but why use either? (rhetorical question) /anti-poly rant

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

Larry Jaques wrote:

Sonny wrote in news:8894734c-aa05-413e-af42-
:

I vote just wax, also. I use Tre-Wax for that type of raw wood
application.

Sonny
Looks like I'll be going with just wax. I've had good results with just
wax in smaller drawers (they only support up to a pound), but was wondering
if poly+wax would make a definite quality difference. I've got to do the
rest of the piece, so the additional cost is fairly low.

Polyurinestain is not a lube.

Waxes are.

Waxes will soak into the pores of the wood (only if -not- choked with
poly) and provide continued slickness even after the original coating
is rubbed off.

I like lacquer on wooden drawer slides. It drys fast and fills the
pores just fine, better than wax. Spray or paint on some lacquer and
sand it off with a fine grit paper. The pores will be filled and the
wood smooth and slick. Lacquer is far more durable than wax, but you can
wax over it if you feel the need.

--
Jack
News Flash: Government Motors Fines their Top Competitor $16 Million.
http://jbstein.com

"Larry Jaques" wrote


I thought he was wanting a lube.


Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is
NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's
horrible odors and invariable stickiness.

Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask
any wooddorker for the past 400 years.

Aw, Larry, you've destroyed a favorite myth of mine.
I had been using:
http://tinyurl.com/2eud54s

Sabes que?
It's fast drying, durable and virtually odor free.
I like it especially for drawers because of it's ease of use and fast drying
and odor free properties.
It's also durable. G

Max

On Apr 23, 8:54 pm, Larry Jaques wrote:

Note: as you see, Puckman wasn't looking for drawer slide lube, but a
wood protectant. BUT.... reading the heading about applying poly to a
drawer slide, it could easily be seen how to misinterpret. You did
better than I did, I was thinking he was going to shoot metal slides
with poly to prevent rust!

Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is
NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's
horrible odors and invariable stickiness.

I always shoot something in the drawers. One mil of finish no matter
what it is that is properly cured will have outgassed all it can. The
key is to use hotter finishes and get away from the slow dry polys,
varnishes, long oils, BLO, shellac, and on and on.

Get a hot finish, spray a dust coat, let it dry. Remember, I refinish
in people's houses while they are in the house. I use the hottest
finishes I can get, and almost all the odor is gone in a day. If not,
certainly in two. People smell too much solvent because the rooms
(kitchen for example) isn't properly sealed off before spraying and
the gasses get out into the house, are picked up by the A/C, and
distributed throughout the home.

I don't turn over raw wood to my clients. I like to provide them with
cleanable (as in the inside of a drawer, not necessarily durable)
finish that has a finished look to it. They really aren't interested
in any kind of "authenticity", or making sure that I follow any
traditions they may have heard of. They know it isn't as durable as
the faces and doors, but still a bit more cleanable than raw wood.

Personally, with the **** poor quality of materials we have been
seeing and using for the last 10 years, I consider not just a question
of a better finished product, but self defense. Since we don't know
what is in the core of the plywoods we use these days, we don't know
how it was stored, we don't know them moisture content of the wood
when it was used, and we don't the actual glues or woods used in
plywoods, it is cheap insurance. Finsihing the drawers in the inside
with a dust coat takes minutes, much more than fixing a wracked
drawer.

Additionally, with the advent of prefinished plywood, folks are now
used to going to the home stores, cabinet showrooms, etc., and they
see that the insides are finished and expect the same from me. Once
again, they aren't interested in a lesson on traditional finishes and
woodworking. They want what everyone else has.

To finish or not to finish on a home project is different, and I tend
to think of questions as they reflect on my work, not as someone's
hobby. Although I would still seal both sides, if nothing more than
with a dust coat or "wash" coat of hot finish, I think raw wood or wax
is a personal preference.

Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask
any wooddorker for the past 400 years.

Now that depends on the wax, eh? Some of the finishing waxes are not
that slick, and most are kind of brittle. Most have silicones (NEVER
on wood... NEVER!) synthetic waxes, all manner of petroleum carriers,
with a little of carnauba thrown in for authenticity.

I don't consider wax a finish. It isn't water resistant, humidity
resistant, heat resistant, abrasion resistant, isn't very cleanable,
and after a while it breaks down all by itself.

(So do other finishes, but not nearly as rapidly.)

Now for the guy that says "hey, it's easily repaired, and I don't mind
renewing the finish every couple of years on the weekend" it might
just fit the bill. Once the carriers leave, you are only left with
the thinnest coat of estherized manufactured resins, some silicone
residue, and maybe some carnauba, maybe some beeswax. You know, stuff
that easily carves with your fingernail.

Not for me. The only thing I see good about wax is that it is easy to
apply.

Before anyone gets upset, remember, it's just my opinion, so take it
for what you paid for it.

Did I ever tell you about my trip to an Etherized Allen showroom ca
2000?

*SNIP* of a sad experience

P.S: The EA store didn't impress me after all.

Me neither. Here's my EA story. I was doing some work at a house
where they had a whole house of EA furniture. After all, they give
you free decorating advice after a certain amount of money is spent.
They had an EA lamp table they had spent something like $900 on, and
they wanted to change the color of the top only.

Well, says Motormouth (read: Robert) that shouldn't be a problem. It
had a fairly complex diamond pattern of different kinds of wood
underneath a heavy dark spray of stain, topped with -WAX!!- (just
kidding... it was some kind if thin lacquer).

Quoted them a price and off we went. I put some BIX on it and it went
through that finish like it wasn't there. ( Maybe it was wax
afterall.... ;^) )

It also went through the wood diamond pattern and raised it up. I was
horrified as I thought I had ruined the little wood inset. Nope.. not
at all. I had ruined the the "wood", actually paper, applique.

In a strange twist of fate, the clients weren't mad at me. They were
really ****ed off at EA since they had been told their furniture was
"solid wood". I was prepared to take a real beating, but they took a
different tact altogether and told me that they would have never asked
me to try to refinish the top if they had known it was only paper.

They were really mad at EA and wrote them some really nasty letters
but nothing came of it.

$900 for a lamp table made of a mishmash of hard(er) woods with a
paper decal on it. Man am I in the wrong business!

Robert

PS: Like that Ruskin quote a lot. Hadn't seen it in a long while, but
boy is it a keeper.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:13:53 -0600, the infamous "Max"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote


I thought he was wanting a lube.


Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is
NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's
horrible odors and invariable stickiness.

Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask
any wooddorker for the past 400 years.

Aw, Larry, you've destroyed a favorite myth of mine.
I had been using:
http://tinyurl.com/2eud54s

Sabes que?
It's fast drying, durable and virtually odor free.
I like it especially for drawers because of it's ease of use and fast drying
and odor free properties.
It's also durable. G

Oh, the "new, improved water-based, oil-modified polyurinestain."
That's different. thud

OK, so it stinks less. (nasally)

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 12:41:41 -0700 (PDT), the infamous
" scrawled the
following:

On Apr 23, 8:54 pm, Larry Jaques wrote:

Note: as you see, Puckman wasn't looking for drawer slide lube, but a
wood protectant. BUT.... reading the heading about applying poly to a
drawer slide, it could easily be seen how to misinterpret. You did
better than I did, I was thinking he was going to shoot metal slides
with poly to prevent rust!

vbg


Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is
NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's
horrible odors and invariable stickiness.

I always shoot something in the drawers. One mil of finish no matter
what it is that is properly cured will have outgassed all it can. The
key is to use hotter finishes and get away from the slow dry polys,
varnishes, long oils, BLO, shellac, and on and on.

Ooh, 1 mil? You shoot a thin mix, boss.


Get a hot finish, spray a dust coat, let it dry. Remember, I refinish
in people's houses while they are in the house. I use the hottest
finishes I can get, and almost all the odor is gone in a day. If not,
certainly in two. People smell too much solvent because the rooms
(kitchen for example) isn't properly sealed off before spraying and
the gasses get out into the house, are picked up by the A/C, and
distributed throughout the home.

Lacquers are pretty neat. I'll have to try shooting some some day.
First I need to get half the crap out of my shop so I can get back to
work in it.


I don't turn over raw wood to my clients. I like to provide them with
cleanable (as in the inside of a drawer, not necessarily durable)
finish that has a finished look to it. They really aren't interested
in any kind of "authenticity", or making sure that I follow any
traditions they may have heard of. They know it isn't as durable as
the faces and doors, but still a bit more cleanable than raw wood.

How many other folks do that? You're one of the very few I've heard
who did that in all the years I've been splintering wood.


Personally, with the **** poor quality of materials we have been
seeing and using for the last 10 years, I consider not just a question
of a better finished product, but self defense. Since we don't know
what is in the core of the plywoods we use these days, we don't know
how it was stored, we don't know them moisture content of the wood
when it was used, and we don't the actual glues or woods used in
plywoods, it is cheap insurance. Finsihing the drawers in the inside
with a dust coat takes minutes, much more than fixing a wracked
drawer.

Interesting.


Additionally, with the advent of prefinished plywood, folks are now
used to going to the home stores, cabinet showrooms, etc., and they
see that the insides are finished and expect the same from me. Once
again, they aren't interested in a lesson on traditional finishes and
woodworking. They want what everyone else has.

What? Furniture stores sell prefinished drawers, too? I haven't been
back in one since the Etherized Allen thang.


To finish or not to finish on a home project is different, and I tend
to think of questions as they reflect on my work, not as someone's
hobby. Although I would still seal both sides, if nothing more than
with a dust coat or "wash" coat of hot finish, I think raw wood or wax
is a personal preference.

True.


Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask
any wooddorker for the past 400 years.

Now that depends on the wax, eh? Some of the finishing waxes are not
that slick, and most are kind of brittle. Most have silicones (NEVER
on wood... NEVER!) synthetic waxes, all manner of petroleum carriers,
with a little of carnauba thrown in for authenticity.

I've always checked for silicone in anything which crossed the
threshold of my shop; ALWAYS! It doesn't get in.

You're probably even more paranoid because you shoot finishes and hate
fish lookin' atcha.


I don't consider wax a finish.

No, it's more of a wash/dust coat, as you called your preference.


It isn't water resistant, humidity
resistant, heat resistant, abrasion resistant, isn't very cleanable,
and after a while it breaks down all by itself.

Right, so once every few years, a new swish of Johnson's Wax goes ont
he sides and a quick swipe of paraffin goes on the wooden runners.
It's a tradition in my household. har


(So do other finishes, but not nearly as rapidly.)

Now for the guy that says "hey, it's easily repaired, and I don't mind
renewing the finish every couple of years on the weekend" it might
just fit the bill. Once the carriers leave, you are only left with
the thinnest coat of estherized manufactured resins, some silicone
residue, and maybe some carnauba, maybe some beeswax. You know, stuff
that easily carves with your fingernail.

Not for me. The only thing I see good about wax is that it is easy to
apply.

Yeah, it's that, too.


Before anyone gets upset, remember, it's just my opinion, so take it
for what you paid for it.

g


Did I ever tell you about my trip to an Etherized Allen showroom ca
2000?

*SNIP* of a sad experience

P.S: The EA store didn't impress me after all.

Me neither. Here's my EA story. I was doing some work at a house
where they had a whole house of EA furniture. After all, they give
you free decorating advice after a certain amount of money is spent.
They had an EA lamp table they had spent something like $900 on, and
they wanted to change the color of the top only.

Well, says Motormouth (read: Robert) that shouldn't be a problem. It
had a fairly complex diamond pattern of different kinds of wood
underneath a heavy dark spray of stain, topped with -WAX!!- (just
kidding... it was some kind if thin lacquer).

Quoted them a price and off we went. I put some BIX on it and it went
through that finish like it wasn't there. ( Maybe it was wax
afterall.... ;^) )

It also went through the wood diamond pattern and raised it up. I was
horrified as I thought I had ruined the little wood inset. Nope.. not
at all. I had ruined the the "wood", actually paper, applique.

In a strange twist of fate, the clients weren't mad at me. They were
really ****ed off at EA since they had been told their furniture was
"solid wood". I was prepared to take a real beating, but they took a
different tact altogether and told me that they would have never asked
me to try to refinish the top if they had known it was only paper.

Dayum, you sure lucked out. OK, your story wins the "OHMIGOD!" award.


They were really mad at EA and wrote them some really nasty letters
but nothing came of it.

$900 for a lamp table made of a mishmash of hard(er) woods with a
paper decal on it. Man am I in the wrong business!

Yabbut _you_ both have a conscience and can sleep at night.


Robert

PS: Like that Ruskin quote a lot. Hadn't seen it in a long while, but
boy is it a keeper.

Yeah, I thought so, too.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

"Larry Jaques" wrote


Oh, the "new, improved water-based, oil-modified polyurinestain."
That's different. thud

OK, so it stinks less. (nasally)

--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin


Chistoso!

Should I use spar varnish?

Max

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 21:49:38 -0600, the infamous "Max"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote


Oh, the "new, improved water-based, oil-modified polyurinestain."
That's different. thud

OK, so it stinks less. (nasally)

Chistoso!

??? You're portly geese?


Should I use spar varnish?

Oooh, yeah! It'll have the bottom layer of clothing embedded in no
time. Think of it as evolution in action.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

"Larry Jaques" wrote

the infamous "Max" wrote:
Chistoso!

??? You're portly geese?

Portly Frog. Transported Canuck. Chistoso in "border Spanish" means "Funny
man". But I thought you knew that. (Jaques?)

Should I use spar varnish?

Oooh, yeah! It'll have the bottom layer of clothing embedded in no
time. Think of it as evolution in action.

Sigh! What to do, what to do.

...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

In order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he be easily pleased.

Max

On Sun, 25 Apr 2010 09:47:38 -0600, the infamous "Max"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

the infamous "Max" wrote:
Chistoso!

??? You're portly geese?

Portly Frog. Transported Canuck. Chistoso in "border Spanish" means "Funny
man". But I thought you knew that. (Jaques?)

'Murrican here.


Should I use spar varnish?

Oooh, yeah! It'll have the bottom layer of clothing embedded in no
time. Think of it as evolution in action.

Sigh! What to do, what to do.

3M Super 77, to rule out all other possibilities?

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

"Larry Jaques" wrote

the infamous "Max" pounded on his keyboard and produced:

Portly Frog. Transported Canuck. Chistoso in "border Spanish" means
"Funny
man". But I thought you knew that. (Jaques?)

'Murrican here.

"Murrican here. Born in Ontario, Canada. Grew up in Michigan. Retired in
Texas
Bi-lingual from living on the border...............with Mexico.

Should I use spar varnish?


Sigh! What to do, what to do.

3M Super 77, to rule out all other possibilities?

--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

I'm afraid to ask where you want me to use the adhesive.

Max

On Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:52:01 -0600, the infamous "Max"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

the infamous "Max" pounded on his keyboard and produced:

Portly Frog. Transported Canuck. Chistoso in "border Spanish" means
"Funny
man". But I thought you knew that. (Jaques?)

'Murrican here.

"Murrican here. Born in Ontario, Canada. Grew up in Michigan. Retired in
Texas
Bi-lingual from living on the border...............with Mexico.

Yo tengo dos anos de Espanol in la escuela, not enough to remember
past tenses or too much slang.


Should I use spar varnish?


Sigh! What to do, what to do.

3M Super 77, to rule out all other possibilities?

I'm afraid to ask where you want me to use the adhesive.

IN your drawers, man.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Heart Attacks: God's revenge for eating his little animal friends

"Larry Jaques" wrote

the infamous "Max" scrawled the following:

I'm afraid to ask where you want me to use the adhesive.

IN your drawers, man.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Heart Attacks: God's revenge for eating his little animal friends

Dawg!! You want me to *sit* on it?
Here I am depending on your incomparable expertise and you send me advice
like that.
What to do, what to do?

Max (this place ain't like wood shop in high school)