To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

On 3/28/2012 9:17 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Keith wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art


Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that
site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the
blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2"
to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1
1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a
1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/28/2012 9:17 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Keith wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all
of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though
it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest
under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I
think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn
the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I
thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type
of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art


Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the
better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that
site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the
blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2"
to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1
1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a
1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

On 3/28/2012 9:35 PM, Bill wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/28/2012 9:17 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Keith wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all
of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though
it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest
under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I
think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn
the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I
thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type
of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art


Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the
better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that
site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the
blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2"
to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1
1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a
1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

OP: We are working on that question.

In the few cuts I have made it seems to cut OK.

Would a dull blade cause burning.

"Bill" wrote in message ...
Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/28/2012 9:17 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Keith wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all
of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though
it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest
under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I
think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn
the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I
thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type
of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art


Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the
better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that
site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the
blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2"
to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1
1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a
1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

And does it have the proper amount of set? Too little set will result
in a larger minimum turning radius. A new blade may be in order.
Be sure your guide blocks are adjusted behind the teeth of the blade
or you could ruin it instantly.
Art

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 21:35:32 -0400, Bill wrote:

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/28/2012 9:17 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Keith wrote in message
...
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I
thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and thought it
would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all
of the
manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though
it was
obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest
under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I
think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn
the wood
slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I
thought there may
be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type
of bandsaw, or
is it something I am doing.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net...saw-blade.html
Art


Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the
better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that
site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the
blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2"
to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1
1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a
1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

(And installed in the right direction?) gd&r

--
"When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the
government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson

Bill wrote in :


Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?


What about the back of the blade? Is it square or rounded?

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone to
make it easier to cut curves.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?


What about the back of the blade? Is it square or rounded?

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone to
make it easier to cut curves.

He can work onthe old blade if he wants while he's trying a new blade! : )



Puckdropper

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/28/2012 9:35 PM, Bill wrote:

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

OP: We are working on that question.

In the few cuts I have made it seems to cut OK.

Would a dull blade cause burning.


Anything that impedes the cutting could. That includes a blade that is
dull, too wide, too many TPI, too little tooth set, type of wood, etc.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 3/28/2012 6:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I bought that saw new about 30 years ago, I think I paid about $80. I
would say that yours is probably a least 25 years old. Yours was well
maintained most likely because it was probably never used very much.
Mine was not.
Any way IIRC the blade guides were not the typically expected
material. Burning from the blade can be caused by exceeding the radius
that the blade was designed for. The set in the teeth and width of the
blade pretty much dictate the radius that it is capable of cutting with
out burning. The distance from the back corner of the blade to the
outer most cutting point of the blade on the opposite side is what
determines the smallest possible radius. With the same width blade but
with greater or less set in the teeth you will get a greater or less
amount of tight radius capacity. Basically once the back corner of the
blade starts to touch the wood you run the risk of burning the wood.
FWIW this saw was marginal when brand new, I never ever used mine
past setting it up that I recall. IMHO the saw is best used for 1/4"
soft material and or balsa.

What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



On 3/28/2012 7:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.


If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.

Not necessarily on a curve. On a straight yes, but on a curve the blade
body could easily be hitting the wood.

On 3/29/2012 11:09 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.


If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 04:41:34 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 3/29/2012 9:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



On 3/28/2012 7:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.
OP: I did not realize to slow would cause burning.

Thank everyone who has helped me with my new "toy".

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

You always round the back of the blade.
I don't know of any manufacturer that does it for you. I always do it
with a diamond file. Most just use a band saw stone (small stone mounted
on a handle) but I found some small diamond stones that were about the
same price and they were super fine, fine, and medium and they do a nice
job. I pad $12 for the little paddles so it was about even, and I get
more use from the super fine in touching up router bits.

On 3/29/2012 4:17 PM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

"Dave" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?
================================================== ================
Have to do it yourself. I use Starrett and DoAll blades. Both have square
backs.

On 3/29/2012 10:54 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Not necessarily on a curve. On a straight yes, but on a curve the blade
body could easily be hitting the wood.

On 3/29/2012 11:09 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.


If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.

And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:15:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.

And that makes me ask: Are there any tables made up of a correlation
between maximum blade size and minimum acceptable cutting curve? It
might help newbie band saw owners when it comes to cutting curves.

"Dave" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:15:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.

And that makes me ask: Are there any tables made up of a correlation
between maximum blade size and minimum acceptable cutting curve? It
might help newbie band saw owners when it comes to cutting curves.
================================================== ========
http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2008...-radius-chart/

On 3/29/2012 4:30 PM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:15:06 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.

And that makes me ask: Are there any tables made up of a correlation
between maximum blade size and minimum acceptable cutting curve? It
might help newbie band saw owners when it comes to cutting curves.

http://www.allbandsawblades.com/blade_width.htm

On 3/29/2012 3:17 PM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

This does not have to be done on the Laguna BS's with the ceramic
guides. The saw does this for you.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:15:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.

And that makes me ask: Are there any tables made up of a correlation
between maximum blade size and minimum acceptable cutting curve? It
might help newbie band saw owners when it comes to cutting curves.

No. Such a thing has never been made before.
Art

Dave wrote in
:

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

The Woodslicer and Woodturner blades from Highland Hardware both had
rounded backs when I got them.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5, wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?

On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5, wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you know
why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it appears
will maintained because it was mot used much because of what you are
witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius
that you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap
blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw
will cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after.
I was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid around
$999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding that I
could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned it less
than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it
on. NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way way
more than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very happy
with the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no fuss. It is
my last and probably my son's last saw should he one day decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
older Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in it. Plastic
and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades
for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it
home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of
Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not
used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs
gave that away.) Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and
turned it on. I think it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and
noticed that it appeared to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves.
Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may be a little rust
on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with
this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw?
It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you know
why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it appears will
maintained because it was mot used much because of what you are
witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius that
you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw will
cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after. I
was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid around
$999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding that I
could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned it less
than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it on.
NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way way more
than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very happy with
the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no fuss. It is my last
and probably my son's last saw should he one day decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
*****older***** Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in it.
Plastic and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.

Emphasis on older. Delta isn't what it used to be.


---
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On 2/26/2014 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs
in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three
blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I
brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I
spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well
maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I
adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to
burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me
question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the
saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you
know why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it
appears will maintained because it was mot used much because of what
you are witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius
that you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap
blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw
will cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after.
I was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid
around $999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding
that I could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned
it less than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it
on. NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way
way more than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very
happy with the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no
fuss. It is my last and probably my son's last saw should he one day
decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
*****older***** Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in
it. Plastic and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.

Emphasis on older. Delta isn't what it used to be.
Hasn't been in years. As far back as 2000 I was having problems with
Delta. I buy their stuff used, but stopped buying new. My Bandsaw was
the last and worst Delta product.. I bought the American made Piece of
****, and basically had to put a lot of work to get it right. I could
write a book.

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protection is active.
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--
Jeff

"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
On 2/26/2014 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs
in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three
blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I
brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I
spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well
maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I
adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to
burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me
question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the
saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you
know why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it
appears will maintained because it was mot used much because of what
you are witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius
that you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap
blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw
will cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after.
I was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid
around $999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding
that I could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned
it less than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it
on. NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way
way more than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very
happy with the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no
fuss. It is my last and probably my son's last saw should he one day
decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
*****older***** Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in
it. Plastic and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.



Emphasis on older. Delta isn't what it used to be.


Hasn't been in years. As far back as 2000 I was having problems with
Delta. I buy their stuff used, but stopped buying new. My Bandsaw was the
last and worst Delta product.. I bought the American made Piece of ****,
and basically had to put a lot of work to get it right. I could write a
book.

Back in 1992 / 1993 I worked for a tool store, and those who could afford it
bought Delta. Those who couldn't bought Jet. Today I would buy a Jet
before a Delta if I had to buy new. Heck, I'ld probably buy Grizzly before
I bought either. I've got a 230V Delta RAS my wife bought me for my
birthday 8 or 9 years ago. The only reason I haven't gotten rid of the big
piece of **** is because it was a gift from my wife. It does make a
mediocre table to pile things on though.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 2/26/2014 7:31 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
On 2/26/2014 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs
in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three
blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I
brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I
spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well
maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I
adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to
burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me
question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the
saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you
know why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it
appears will maintained because it was mot used much because of what
you are witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius
that you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap
blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw
will cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at
toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after.
I was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid
around $999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding
that I could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned
it less than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it
on. NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way
way more than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very
happy with the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no
fuss. It is my last and probably my son's last saw should he one day
decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
*****older***** Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in
it. Plastic and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.



Emphasis on older. Delta isn't what it used to be.


Hasn't been in years. As far back as 2000 I was having problems with
Delta. I buy their stuff used, but stopped buying new. My Bandsaw was
the last and worst Delta product.. I bought the American made Piece of
****, and basically had to put a lot of work to get it right. I could
write a book.

Back in 1992 / 1993 I worked for a tool store, and those who could
afford it bought Delta. Those who couldn't bought Jet. Today I would
buy a Jet before a Delta if I had to buy new. Heck, I'ld probably buy
Grizzly before I bought either. I've got a 230V Delta RAS my wife
bought me for my birthday 8 or 9 years ago. The only reason I haven't
gotten rid of the big piece of **** is because it was a gift from my
wife. It does make a mediocre table to pile things on though.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


I think of Jet as over priced these days. Granted they have solid tools,
same style as the old delta in many respects. But I think they are just
a little too far out on price.

I remember years ago both the Unisaw and Jet cab saw were about
1150-1200... the next year for some reason they were pushing 1650.. then
........
I know cast iron went up due to oil, and raw materials, but... that was
a large increase. And I don't think most of it was metal, I think it was
just hey we can.

--
Jeff

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:31:38 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"woodchucker" wrote in message
.. .
On 2/26/2014 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but
for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs
in woodworking. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three
blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I
brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I
spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well
maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the
table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the manual I
adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to
burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade. Me
question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the
saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?


I think about 30 years ago that was about a $70 saw, new. Now you
know why you were able to pick it up for $25. More than likely it
appears will maintained because it was mot used much because of what
you are witnessing.


You can/will get burning from a blade that is too wide for the radius
that you are cutting. If burning while cutting a straight line, cheap
blade.

The BS is a machine that has to have some degree of quality for you to
enjoy. Typically the more money you put into a BS the better the saw
will cut.

This is how my journey went.

I probably bought that same saw 30 or so years ago and it was,,, at toy.

Next saw was a 1/2 hp 10" Craftsman that I bought shortly there after.
I was a real band saw and cut decently on thin stock. Because it was
difficult to align every time I used it, I seldom used it.

About 6~7 years ago I bought a big Rikon with 2hp to replace the
Craftsman. I wanted a saw that would be my last BS. IIRC I paid
around $999 on sale. I ordered it sight unseen with the understanding
that I could return it should I find it not to my liking. I returned
it less than 2 weeks later.

It has been my findings that I needed to step up in quality to fore go
having to putz with the saw every time I wanted to use it. I
expected/expect it to be ready to cut when I walk up to it and turn it
on. NONE of the previous saws afforded me that luxury. I spent way
way more than you are probably thinking of spending but I am very very
happy with the saw and it eats every thing I throw at it with no
fuss. It is my last and probably my son's last saw should he one day
decide to keep it.

If you really have the need or want a BS I would advise looking at an
*****older***** Delta or something that has a lot of steel or iron in
it. Plastic and aluminum is not going to leave with a happy feeling.



Emphasis on older. Delta isn't what it used to be.


Hasn't been in years. As far back as 2000 I was having problems with
Delta. I buy their stuff used, but stopped buying new. My Bandsaw was the
last and worst Delta product.. I bought the American made Piece of ****,
and basically had to put a lot of work to get it right. I could write a
book.

Back in 1992 / 1993 I worked for a tool store, and those who could afford it
bought Delta. Those who couldn't bought Jet. Today I would buy a Jet
before a Delta if I had to buy new. Heck, I'ld probably buy Grizzly before
I bought either. I've got a 230V Delta RAS my wife bought me for my
birthday 8 or 9 years ago. The only reason I haven't gotten rid of the big
piece of **** is because it was a gift from my wife. It does make a
mediocre table to pile things on though.

I hope she's doesn't read RW. ;-)

I bought a Delta drill press (18-900L). I couldn't be more pleased
with it. My cabinet saw is also very good, much better than anything
else for its price. I wouldn't buy their new saw, though.

Each manufacturer is strong in a tool, or two, but either overpriced
for others or just not up to snuff. Because a company makes a great
tool, doesn't mean they all are.

replying to loose65 , Chet wrote:
loose65 wrote:

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrot
e:
25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodwork
ing. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
download
ed all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it
up.
(Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time.
Mud
Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the
m
anual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectl
y. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood
slig
htly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there
m
ay be a little rust on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the
cu
rves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.
I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw?

It keep jumping off the wheels?



Where did you find a manual and do you know where I can find one today?

--

"Chet" wrote

Chances are that the question will not be answered, cause the person that
wrote the post two years ago is prolly not here now.
--
Jim in NC


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On 4/28/2014 1:44 PM, Chet wrote:
replying to loose65 , Chet wrote:
loose65 wrote:

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5,
wrot
e: 25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodwork
ing. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25,
and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
download
ed all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it
up.
(Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time.
Mud
Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the
m
anual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works
perfectl
y. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood
slig
htly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there
m
ay be a little rust on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the
cu
rves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.
I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw?

It keep jumping off the wheels?



Where did you find a manual and do you know where I can find one today?


You are in luck, I am retired and am still checking the newsgroups. I
found the manual for the saw by googling on the model brand and numbers.

I found mine was model number 9411.04.

If that does not work contact me directly.

replying to Keith Nuttle , Chet wrote:
Keith_Nuttle wrote:

You are in luck, I am retired and am still checking the newsgroups. I
found the manual for the saw by googling on the model brand and numbers.
I found mine was model number 9411.04.
If that does not work contact me directly.



Keith can you post a link for me?

--

replying to loose65 , Chet wrote:
loose65 wrote:


I was researching and found that the B&D 9411 should be able to handle a
3/16 wide blade start slow and adjust your tension. also look and make
sure your riding bearings are not pushing the blade. they should just be
a hair off the blade only there to keep you from pushing the blade to far
back as you cut. If they are to far forward they can cause the blade to
swing off.

if all else replace your tires.

--

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 at 4:50:45 PM UTC-7, wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I've been searching for a manual. Can you tell me where you downloaded yours?

What size blade does the 9411 type 1 take?