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Old March 29th 12, 01:43 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On 3/28/2012 6:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.


I bought that saw new about 30 years ago, I think I paid about $80. I
would say that yours is probably a least 25 years old. Yours was well
maintained most likely because it was probably never used very much.
Mine was not.
Any way IIRC the blade guides were not the typically expected
material. Burning from the blade can be caused by exceeding the radius
that the blade was designed for. The set in the teeth and width of the
blade pretty much dictate the radius that it is capable of cutting with
out burning. The distance from the back corner of the blade to the
outer most cutting point of the blade on the opposite side is what
determines the smallest possible radius. With the same width blade but
with greater or less set in the teeth you will get a greater or less
amount of tight radius capacity. Basically once the back corner of the
blade starts to touch the wood you run the risk of burning the wood.
FWIW this saw was marginal when brand new, I never ever used mine
past setting it up that I recall. IMHO the saw is best used for 1/4"
soft material and or balsa.

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Old March 29th 12, 03:51 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



On 3/28/2012 7:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

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Old March 29th 12, 05:09 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.
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Old March 29th 12, 05:54 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

Not necessarily on a curve. On a straight yes, but on a curve the blade
body could easily be hitting the wood.

On 3/29/2012 11:09 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.

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Old March 29th 12, 06:13 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 04:41:34 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.


Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw


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Old March 29th 12, 06:40 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On 3/29/2012 9:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



On 3/28/2012 7:50 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for
$25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in
woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and
thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and
downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday
cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used
for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave
that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think
it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared
to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any
burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of
bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

OP: I did not realize to slow would cause burning.

Thank everyone who has helped me with my new "toy".
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Old March 29th 12, 10:17 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.


Not only that, it often reduces the drift.


Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?
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Old March 29th 12, 11:07 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

You always round the back of the blade.
I don't know of any manufacturer that does it for you. I always do it
with a diamond file. Most just use a band saw stone (small stone mounted
on a handle) but I found some small diamond stones that were about the
same price and they were super fine, fine, and medium and they do a nice
job. I pad $12 for the little paddles so it was about even, and I get
more use from the super fine in touching up router bits.

On 3/29/2012 4:17 PM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.


Not only that, it often reduces the drift.


Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

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Old March 29th 12, 11:14 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I



"Dave" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone
to make it easier to cut curves.


Not only that, it often reduces the drift.


Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is
it something that should be done by every band saw owner?
================================================== ================
Have to do it yourself. I use Starrett and DoAll blades. Both have square
backs.

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Old March 29th 12, 11:15 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 11,279
Default Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

On 3/29/2012 10:54 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Not necessarily on a curve. On a straight yes, but on a curve the blade
body could easily be hitting the wood.

On 3/29/2012 11:09 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2012 8:51 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can
burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is
in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit
down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.



If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than
the body of the blade.


And then regardless of how fast or you are feeding the wood you would be
using the wrong blade. If you are using a blade that is hitting on the
back side you are 99% not closely following the drawn curve.


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