On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:00:27 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:40 PM, tiredofspam wrote:


On 1/27/2012 9:08 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 08:27:56 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/26/2012 4:10 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 09:13:53 -0600, wrote:

On 1/25/2012 8:45 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:



FYI, I believe the Festool can ride a Makita track and both use the
same connector. Look at the ends of the compared tracks in this
article.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/to...lunge-cut_saws


Just something to consider if you plan to use the saw and both tracks
very much. And something else to consider, you will use this saw much
more than you might think so ease of storage and transport of the tracks
to a different location is going to become important.

I hear that. I'd build a lightweight carrier for them. I've already
lost one half of the 8' guide I had for cutting ply to the back of my
truck tool storage area.sigh Luckily, I got 30+ years out of it.
That's $2.50/yr.

I think the easiest carrier might be a 6" piece of pvc sewer pipe.
Cap one end and put a cleanout on the other. Put a handle in the middle
to handle the beast. That will keep the track from getting banged about.

I'd use tubatwos, dado down the middle for a separator, and mahogany
door skin for the covers and center divider.


Not sure about the Makita track but the Festool track is just under 7.5"
wide.

Did you see the end shot of the 3 in the PW article?

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:08 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

What does the EQ 55 have that the SP6000K1 doesn't? I mean, besides
the fluorescent green plastic?

--
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois

Ok, getting serious here, something to consider.

All things being equal, consider the tracks lengths.

The Makita comes with a 55" track and apparently the only other track
that is available is a 118" track. That track is going to cost you at
least $175 plus shipping. In reality you "can" use the 55" track to

An additional 55" track and connectors will run $130, incl. s/h.

Doh! ;~) That would make sense. But remember for ease of use you want
the saw to be clear of the sheet on both ends of the panel. 110" -96"
=14"/2 = 7" for the base of the saw. And if you rip a sheet diagonally
you need more length.

Ayup.


How much of a problem is it to stop the saw in mid-cut, shift the
guide, and start up again? Doesn't the guide practically guarantee a
clean cut?

Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?



What are the advantages of the larger saw? Has your TS55 every bogged
down in a cut?

Never has bogged down although Keith has the TS55 and is not happy with
the power.

Hell, I've been working with Dad's old Craftsman circular saw for 20
years now, doin' the old Eveready bunny thang.


Ain't -that- a ripoff? They look like pieces of 1/4" bar stock.

Yeah I agree with that one but it cost me that much to hunt down the
material, cut it, and thread 8 screws into it.

Does it take one or two pieces to join the tracks? They appear to be
sold separately but it states that two are required.


And that happens much faster than on the jointer. One pass, not several.

Ayup. That's the kind of data I'm after, and which has finally sold
me on the track saw. Thanks for the detailed info.

Keep in mind that if you have to move the track in the middle of a cut
you probably will not get a perfectly straight line from one end of the
cut to the other.

Given that you'd only move the track a foot or two out of 8, I can't
see how it would be that much of a problem. Not glueline, but fairly
straight...

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:08 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

What does the EQ 55 have that the SP6000K1 doesn't? I mean, besides
the fluorescent green plastic?

--
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois

Ok, getting serious here, something to consider.

All things being equal, consider the tracks lengths.

The Makita comes with a 55" track and apparently the only other track
that is available is a 118" track. That track is going to cost you at
least $175 plus shipping. In reality you "can" use the 55" track to

An additional 55" track and connectors will run $130, incl. s/h.

Doh! ;~) That would make sense. But remember for ease of use you want
the saw to be clear of the sheet on both ends of the panel. 110" -96"
=14"/2 = 7" for the base of the saw. And if you rip a sheet diagonally
you need more length.

Ayup.


How much of a problem is it to stop the saw in mid-cut, shift the
guide, and start up again? Doesn't the guide practically guarantee a
clean cut?

Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.





What are the advantages of the larger saw? Has your TS55 every bogged
down in a cut?

Never has bogged down although Keith has the TS55 and is not happy with
the power.

Hell, I've been working with Dad's old Craftsman circular saw for 20
years now, doin' the old Eveready bunny thang.


Ain't -that- a ripoff? They look like pieces of 1/4" bar stock.

Yeah I agree with that one but it cost me that much to hunt down the
material, cut it, and thread 8 screws into it.

Does it take one or two pieces to join the tracks? They appear to be
sold separately but it states that two are required.

For the Festool and the most secure, 2 bars, $15 each.




And that happens much faster than on the jointer. One pass, not several.

Ayup. That's the kind of data I'm after, and which has finally sold
me on the track saw. Thanks for the detailed info.

Keep in mind that if you have to move the track in the middle of a cut
you probably will not get a perfectly straight line from one end of the
cut to the other.

Given that you'd only move the track a foot or two out of 8, I can't
see how it would be that much of a problem. Not glueline, but fairly
straight...

Well if as you say fairly straight is all you are looking for you might
be happy but as I have mentioned before I am looking for better than TS
results. Moving the track at all upsets the accuracy. Not moving the
track at all will give you the straightest line.

Remember these saws are not framing/construction saws, they are made to
produce very very straight and good cuts.

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:59:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.

I'm OK with it being a couple RCHes off. Aren't you?


Does it take one or two pieces to join the tracks? They appear to be
sold separately but it states that two are required.

For the Festool and the most secure, 2 bars, $15 each.

OK, thanks. My $130 figure is about right, for the two connectors and
an extra 55" section of track.


Given that you'd only move the track a foot or two out of 8, I can't
see how it would be that much of a problem. Not glueline, but fairly
straight...

Well if as you say fairly straight is all you are looking for you might
be happy but as I have mentioned before I am looking for better than TS
results. Moving the track at all upsets the accuracy. Not moving the
track at all will give you the straightest line.

True.


Remember these saws are not framing/construction saws, they are made to
produce very very straight and good cuts.

It would be used on plywood and, hopefully/soon, foam board for signs.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On 1/28/2012 3:23 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:59:41 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.

I'm OK with it being a couple RCHes off. Aren't you?

No.

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 15:49:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 3:23 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:59:41 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.

I'm OK with it being a couple RCHes off. Aren't you?

No.

OK. I'm comfy with a 60-1/2 plane to soften any small ridge, but I
guess it would depend on the necessity of absolute precision, wouldn't
it? Each case would be different.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On 1/28/2012 10:13 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 15:49:23 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 3:23 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:59:41 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.

I'm OK with it being a couple RCHes off. Aren't you?

No.

OK. I'm comfy with a 60-1/2 plane to soften any small ridge, but I
guess it would depend on the necessity of absolute precision, wouldn't
it? Each case would be different.

That is true however in my case I did not spend several hundreds of
dollars for a saw that would yield slightly better results than a
typical circular saw and a straight edge. I wanted equal to or better
than TS performance and accuracy. And I knew that I would soon tire of
having to fidget with the track if I could not make my complete cut in
one pass. That I why I went the to the extra expense in the beginning
so that I would get the full benefit of having this type saw.
And again I am not saying that what you are thinking will be wrong for
you and that my reasoning for my purposes is the solution for everyone.
I just want to point out some of the things that you need to be aware of.

And as far as absolute precision is concerned I am sure that I am not
getting it but from no fault of the saw so to speak. But the more
little areas that can introduce error that are eliminated the less
likely that small error amplifies itself several steps further along in
the project.







--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 09:01:55 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 10:13 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 15:49:23 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 3:23 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:59:41 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/28/2012 11:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:09:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Takes 3 times longer and you are not going to get it placed perfectly,
the line will not be perfectly straight and you will likely have a
start/stop point. Remember you really cannot slide these tracks, you
have to pick them up and place them.

I grok the lift+move concept with the anti-skid strips on them, but
why wouldn't it be easy to align the track to its previous cut for a
near perfect continuance of the cut?

That would depend on your eye sight. You typically line up with a shiny
pencil mark. If you stop mid stream you have a kerf to line up with.
Not saying it would be hard but time consuming to get it perfect and you
won't know if it is perfect until after you make the cut.
My expectations are for better than a TS cut yours may not be.

I'm OK with it being a couple RCHes off. Aren't you?

No.

OK. I'm comfy with a 60-1/2 plane to soften any small ridge, but I
guess it would depend on the necessity of absolute precision, wouldn't
it? Each case would be different.

That is true however in my case I did not spend several hundreds of
dollars for a saw that would yield slightly better results than a
typical circular saw and a straight edge. I wanted equal to or better
than TS performance and accuracy. And I knew that I would soon tire of
having to fidget with the track if I could not make my complete cut in
one pass. That I why I went the to the extra expense in the beginning
so that I would get the full benefit of having this type saw.

Grok that. Given funding, I'd have all the goodies, too.


And again I am not saying that what you are thinking will be wrong for
you and that my reasoning for my purposes is the solution for everyone.
I just want to point out some of the things that you need to be aware of.

Bueno, bwana.


And as far as absolute precision is concerned I am sure that I am not
getting it but from no fault of the saw so to speak.

Yuppers. Projects are only as good as we are (or care to be) with the
tools we have to work with.


But the more
little areas that can introduce error that are eliminated the less
likely that small error amplifies itself several steps further along in
the project.

This is true on almost all projects, too.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

I love my Festool.

wrote in message ...

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:40:01 -0500, "TimDrouillard"
I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

I love my Festool.

I knew that comment would be forthcoming.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:40:01 -0500, "TimDrouillard"
wrote:

I love my Festool.

For $1500, it's all I'd have to love. Well, that and the dog house. ;-)

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:29:08 -0600, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

I really sucks, everything but dust. ;-)

I bought one of the chop-saw hoods so it doesn't throw it everywhere. I think
the problem is that the dust port is too high so there isn't enough suction at
the blade to pull dust up to the port. There should be a "scoop" or something
behind the blade to deflect the dust upward into the dust port.

On 2/1/2012 9:03 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:29:08 -0600, Steve
wrote:

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

I really sucks, everything but dust. ;-)

I bought one of the chop-saw hoods so it doesn't throw it everywhere. I think
the problem is that the dust port is too high so there isn't enough suction at
the blade to pull dust up to the port. There should be a "scoop" or something
behind the blade to deflect the dust upward into the dust port.



yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 2/1/2012 9:03 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:29:08 -0600, Steve
wrote:

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

I really sucks, everything but dust. ;-)

I bought one of the chop-saw hoods so it doesn't throw it everywhere. I think
the problem is that the dust port is too high so there isn't enough suction at
the blade to pull dust up to the port. There should be a "scoop" or something
behind the blade to deflect the dust upward into the dust port.



yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

Check the port for a large chip. It should work a helluva lot better.
Haven't you hooked up a dust collector or shop vac to it? That should
catch 95%.

My HF SCMS dust collector bag works pretty well, catching about 75%. I
seldom use it on site, though. Grass is a very good collector and
distributor of sawdust.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

On 2/1/2012 11:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

Careful there Dave, you are flirting with what actually happens in the
real world, this is a news group. :~)

Bull****!

This is moronic and this was explained before but your ignorant
attitude won't let you see the denial in those statements.

Now go on and pretend you didn't see this but remember when you comment
about it later, you look amazingly transparent,

again, no matter how many of your sock puppets agree with you.


--------------
"Dave" wrote in message
...

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

On 2/1/2012 10:32 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 2/1/2012 9:03 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:29:08 -0600, Steve
wrote:

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

I really sucks, everything but dust. ;-)

I bought one of the chop-saw hoods so it doesn't throw it everywhere. I think
the problem is that the dust port is too high so there isn't enough suction at
the blade to pull dust up to the port. There should be a "scoop" or something
behind the blade to deflect the dust upward into the dust port.



yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

Check the port for a large chip. It should work a helluva lot better.
Haven't you hooked up a dust collector or shop vac to it? That should
catch 95%.

My HF SCMS dust collector bag works pretty well, catching about 75%. I
seldom use it on site, though. Grass is a very good collector and
distributor of sawdust.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson


no, i have no intention of hooking up yet another pita thing to the saw
just to catch a little sawdust that will get swept up and vacuumed when
the project is over.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 2/1/2012 11:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

Ever heard any of these gear head geeks tell you their K$N filter did
NOT improve their mileage and performance? I can tell you the science
says they won't, AND they pass more dirt in the process of failing. Not
ONE K$N filter owner will admit they wasted their money, and they know
damn good and well it didn't do a THING for their **** ant vehicle they
put it on.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 2/2/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 11:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

Careful there Dave, you are flirting with what actually happens in the
real world, this is a news group. :~)

very good point, Leon. It IS real world experiences that make the
differences, not what some pencil pusher says a product will do.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 2/2/2012 4:57 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
..

Check the port for a large chip. It should work a helluva lot better.
Haven't you hooked up a dust collector or shop vac to it? That should
catch 95%.

My HF SCMS dust collector bag works pretty well, catching about 75%. I
seldom use it on site, though. Grass is a very good collector and
distributor of sawdust.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson


no, i have no intention of hooking up yet another pita thing to the saw
just to catch a little sawdust that will get swept up and vacuumed when
the project is over.



I have to agree with you here Steve that what is the point of hooking up
a vac if you is not going to save you any clean up trouble.


BUT there are exceptions In a closed environment the vac will collect
most of the fine particles which you may be be breathing in otherwise.
It would be more of a safety health issue.

Vac out doors no, in doors yes.

On 2/2/2012 5:01 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 11:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am
gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

Careful there Dave, you are flirting with what actually happens in the
real world, this is a news group. :~)

very good point, Leon. It IS real world experiences that make the
differences, not what some pencil pusher says a product will do.


There you go!

On 2/2/2012 5:00 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 2/1/2012 11:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker

I suspect they probably have the K$N air filter syndrome. No one likes
to admit after they spend bucoo bucks that they screwed up.

yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

The first paragraph above is a comment you made from the SawStop
thread and the second paragraph is you commenting about how a
particular aspect of a tool is a joke.

Thanks for making my point. SawStop, dust hood, whatever, people talk.
If the SawStop didn't perform to specs, people would talk. It doesn't
mater what kind of prevention Gass might take, if the SawStop didn't
work properly, we'd hear about it.

Ever heard any of these gear head geeks tell you their K$N filter did
NOT improve their mileage and performance? I can tell you the science
says they won't, AND they pass more dirt in the process of failing. Not
ONE K$N filter owner will admit they wasted their money, and they know
damn good and well it didn't do a THING for their **** ant vehicle they
put it on.


The difference her though is that the SS is a major investment that
better perform as advertised. The K&R is not cheap stuff but
complaining would be a lot of effort for little return and they are not
at the news front like the SS.

On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 20:32:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:30:23 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 2/1/2012 9:03 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:29:08 -0600, Steve
wrote:

On 01/29/2012 10:40 PM, TimDrouillard wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:37:19 -0600, Steve Barker

wrote:

Ok, at the risk of a severe flaming, what miter saw does everyone like?
I'm leaning towards the Bosch 5412... don't hit me too hard. LOL!

I like mine, except that its dust collection sucks. Even with a DC attached
to the dust port it throws an incredible amount of dust around.

First you say the dust collection sucks, then you imply that it doesn't
work very well. Make up your mind, will ya?

;-)

I really sucks, everything but dust. ;-)

I bought one of the chop-saw hoods so it doesn't throw it everywhere. I think
the problem is that the dust port is too high so there isn't enough suction at
the blade to pull dust up to the port. There should be a "scoop" or something
behind the blade to deflect the dust upward into the dust port.



yes, i went ahead and bought the 5412 and the dust port is a joke. It
came with this little wire supported bag thingy and i've made maybe two
dozen cuts and there is not one speck of sawdust in the bag. Having
said all that, it doesn't bother me, because i have a broom and am gonna
sweep up afterwards anyway. I expect saw dust in a wood working area.

Check the port for a large chip. It should work a helluva lot better.
Haven't you hooked up a dust collector or shop vac to it? That should
catch 95%.

Nope. No factory installed wood chips. ;-) If it catches 1%, it's a lot.

My HF SCMS dust collector bag works pretty well, catching about 75%.

Yes, my HF SCMS works reasonably well with a vacuum. The Bosch, not so much.

I
seldom use it on site, though. Grass is a very good collector and
distributor of sawdust.

Outside is one thing, in the house is a different kettle o' fish. The HF goes
outside, where dust isn't a problem. ;-)