My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out in a few months if
they last that long without proper lubrication.


"tiredofspam" nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

On 12/28/10 8:54 PM, Josepi wrote:
WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out in a few months if
they last that long without proper lubrication.



What is it with you and mythical corrosion?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Joe, the WD stands for water displacement. So what is the chemical in
WD40 that will cause the corrosion?

On 12/28/2010 09:54 PM, Josepi wrote:
WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out in a few months if
they last that long without proper lubrication.


"tiredofspam"nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

I am afraid that the bearings on the Delta bandsaw are permanently
sealed bearings. If they have reached the point that they
stopped, they are way overdue. In my opinion, you are wasting
your time trying to lube them. WD 40 would certainly NOT be my
choice.

You can get the bearings at any bearing house and probably most
auto parts stores. They shouldn't cost more than $3 each.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"tiredofspam" nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be
removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I
blew them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will
do that.
Or is there another way?

I have no idea. The MSDS sheets do not have to list reactions with non-human
parts.

Different parts of the world use different formulae. Some of the formula is
a secret. Look at the front of the can for the corrosive symbol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxidizing_agent on the can sold in Canada,
requiring full disclosure on the can. You may notice different warnings
required on the cans and they have changed label wording over the years. For
many years no lubrication claims were made on the Canadian product. I have
no idea what it claims now. The USA can always seemed to claim lubrication
but doesn't show corrosion warnings.

I use it very seldom anymore unless a penetrating oil or an old masking tape
remover is required. It tends to dry out any real lubricant in moving parts
and makes the lubrication worse after a few months.


Canadian MSDS
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf...d447382569.pdf
USA MSDS
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf...d494716385.pdf
Aussie MSDS
http://www.wd40.com.au/home/msds.php...&ib=1&nb=WD-40


"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message
...
Joe, the WD stands for water displacement. So what is the chemical in
WD40 that will cause the corrosion?

On 12/28/2010 09:54 PM, Josepi wrote:
WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out in a few months if
they last that long without proper lubrication.


"tiredofspam"nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message
...
Joe, the WD stands for water displacement. So what is the chemical in
WD40 that will cause the corrosion?

40

On Dec 28, 9:07*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one *to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

The ball bearings are lubricated at the factory and are not conducive
to home re lubing. The WD 40 will probably do more harm than good by
disolving the original grease lube. They are a relatively inexpensive
part if purchased from a bearing vendor rather than from the machine
manufacturer. Replacement is the best option.

Joe G

I had tried the other day injecting my sons racing lube into the
bearings. Since they were not moving. Hence the frozen again.

The WD is working for today. I will be picking up a new set of bearings.
Apparently I do not have to heat the bearing to get it off the shaft.
Apparently is is a split shaft so the screw on the end that holds the
adjuster, also keeps the sleeve in place.

I'll probably go for more serviceable bearings. My son speed skates on
inline skates, and we have a whole bearing service system that includes
shaker box to clean, and ultrasonic cleaners. As well as some very high
quality lubes.





On 12/29/2010 11:54 AM, GROVER wrote:
On Dec 28, 9:07 pm, tiredofspamnospam.nospam.com wrote:
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

The ball bearings are lubricated at the factory and are not conducive
to home re lubing. The WD 40 will probably do more harm than good by
disolving the original grease lube. They are a relatively inexpensive
part if purchased from a bearing vendor rather than from the machine
manufacturer. Replacement is the best option.

Joe G

On Dec 29, 11:32*am, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
I had tried the other day injecting my sons racing lube into the
bearings....
I'll probably go for more serviceable bearings.

The sawdust environment is NOT kind to 'more serviceable'
bearings. I wouldn't bother with any system meant for
frequent maintenance, just get more sealed bearings with
the manufacturer's lifetime grease. It'll work for you.
"High quality" grease is only a few dollars a kilo, trust the
manufacturers' selection.

Joking
Obviously you have been working with oak on your jointer.
/Joking


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Josepi wrote:
WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out ...

Utter nonsense.

It's essentially a kerosene-weight hydrocarbon w/ a few other lighter
fractions added.

Whatever its value as a lubricant (which isn't much except as a
temporary wetting agent for moving parts), it is definitely not a
corrosion-instigator.

That said, the idea of using it in sealed bearings is a futile one--if
they're dried and failing, they're dried out and failed and any such
"fix" is purely temporary at best.

--

They would be sealed bearings, but the kind that have removable seals.
It is very easy to clean them and lube them.

On 12/29/2010 5:36 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Dec 29, 11:32 am, tiredofspamnospam.nospam.com wrote:
I had tried the other day injecting my sons racing lube into the
bearings....
I'll probably go for more serviceable bearings.

The sawdust environment is NOT kind to 'more serviceable'
bearings. I wouldn't bother with any system meant for
frequent maintenance, just get more sealed bearings with
the manufacturer's lifetime grease. It'll work for you.
"High quality" grease is only a few dollars a kilo, trust the
manufacturers' selection.

dpb wrote:
Josepi wrote:
WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out ...

Utter nonsense.

It's essentially a kerosene-weight hydrocarbon w/ a few other lighter
fractions added.


Besides - everybody knows it's nothing at all like oak rust...

--

-Mike-

On Dec 28, 7:07*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one *to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

tiredofspam

From your message it is evident that the bearings are shot already.
And the manufacturer probably did not spend much money on bearings in
the first place. You will need either a press or puller to remove the
bearings. Stay away from roller skate bearings. And no torch please.
Just the puller and press as necessary.

Call the folks at "vxb.com" or go to their site and buy the expensive
ones. If you are not up on bearings ask their advice.


To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.

Yesterday I could have used WD40 to clean up the brake caliper slides
on my Chrysler but would have had to clean off the WD40 with brake
cleaner to rid the calipers of the WD40. Then lube as directed by the
service manual.

Bob AZ

Bob AZ wrote:



To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.

I'm no fan of WD40 - it's pure junk. That said - I have used the junk and
have never observed what you suggest above. It's no lubricant, but it's no
corrosive agent either. Perhaps rather than offering what you suggest
above, you might offer evidence of your claim. Trust me - you won't hurt my
feelings if you prove this crap to be even more useless than I currently
believe it to be, but your statement above really places the burden of proof
on you.


Yesterday I could have used WD40 to clean up the brake caliper slides
on my Chrysler but would have had to clean off the WD40 with brake
cleaner to rid the calipers of the WD40. Then lube as directed by the
service manual.

Yup. ****ing on the calipers would have been better than using WD40.

--

-Mike-

On 12/29/10 10:18 PM, Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.


I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/29/10 10:18 PM, Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and
look at it in the morning.


I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.

I'm not expecting any significant findings, but then you know how I am...

--

-Mike-

RE the bearings, I wouldn't bother trying to revive them as a permanent fix.
As a temporary fix until new bearing can be installed, yes... but not
permanent.

RE WD-40, I've used it for years to prevent corrosion, as a cleaner, and to
dry out electricals... Never counted on it as a lubricant per se. It doesn't
seem to have anything corrosive in it if http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
is accurate.

WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet
information, a

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits - primarily hexane,
somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide
is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients

The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following
safety-relevant ingredients:

60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1-5%: Carbon dioxide

*Perhaps rather than offering what you suggest
above, you might offer evidence of your claim.

Mike

As I wrote it was 50 years ago. I doubted my boss and he showed me
with a chrome plated part. In the morning it was dulled. Enough for me
as I expect that the difference in the thickness of the plate is
enough to trash a bearing and make more work for us by causing a
failure that would make for unplanned outages of critical equipment.
We did have a planned schedule for bearing maintenance among other
things.

I have no other evidence to offer. I simply rarely use WD40. And
certainly not anywhere I am unable to clean it out with other
procedures.

Bob AZ

On 12/29/10 11:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/29/10 10:18 PM, Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and
look at it in the morning.


I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.

I'm not expecting any significant findings, but then you know how I am...


I'm expecting any surface rust from the inside of the section of chromed
tube to be sitting at the bottom of the cup, and for the chrome outside
to be very shiny and clean.

That is, unless I neglected to vacuum out all the oak saw dust that was
in the cup. In that case, there should be nothing but grains of
dissolved iron, that is of course, if it doesn't cause an explosion.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/29/10 11:32 PM, Bob AZ wrote:
Perhaps rather than offering what you suggest
above, you might offer evidence of your claim.

Mike

As I wrote it was 50 years ago.......

Bob AZ


Oh I'm sorry.
I didn't realize you meant that we should leave a shiny chrome thing in
it overnight and look at it in the morning..... 50 years ago.
Let me get my Delorean.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Bob AZ wrote:
Perhaps rather than offering what you suggest
above, you might offer evidence of your claim.

Mike

As I wrote it was 50 years ago. I doubted my boss and he showed me
with a chrome plated part. In the morning it was dulled. Enough for me
as I expect that the difference in the thickness of the plate is
enough to trash a bearing and make more work for us by causing a
failure that would make for unplanned outages of critical equipment.
We did have a planned schedule for bearing maintenance among other
things.

I have no other evidence to offer. I simply rarely use WD40. And
certainly not anywhere I am unable to clean it out with other
procedures.

Bob AZ

Thanks Bob - I appreciate the experience you share. Sorry if you had shared
it earlier and I missed that part. That experience might cause more
questions for me, than providing any evidence of corrosion, but at least I
know what you're standing on now.

--

-Mike-

On 12/29/2010 11:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/29/10 11:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/29/10 10:18 PM, Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and
look at it in the morning.


I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.

I'm not expecting any significant findings, but then you know how I am...


I'm expecting any surface rust from the inside of the section of chromed tube
to be sitting at the bottom of the cup, and for the chrome outside to be very
shiny and clean.

That is, unless I neglected to vacuum out all the oak saw dust that was in the
cup. In that case, there should be nothing but grains of dissolved iron, that
is of course, if it doesn't cause an explosion.

Oak rust; the gift that keeps on giving. :-)

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

In article efb0aa2e-4a5b-45b4-9458-361d3b393640@
21g2000prv.googlegroups.com, says...

On Dec 28, 7:07*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off.
These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed.
I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew
them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one *to get it off the shaft.
Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that.
Or is there another way?

tiredofspam

From your message it is evident that the bearings are shot already.
And the manufacturer probably did not spend much money on bearings in
the first place. You will need either a press or puller to remove the
bearings. Stay away from roller skate bearings. And no torch please.
Just the puller and press as necessary.

Call the folks at "vxb.com" or go to their site and buy the expensive
ones. If you are not up on bearings ask their advice.

And if they advise a 608 bearing then what?

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.

Yesterday I could have used WD40 to clean up the brake caliper slides
on my Chrysler but would have had to clean off the WD40 with brake
cleaner to rid the calipers of the WD40. Then lube as directed by the
service manual.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Bob AZ wrote:
Perhaps rather than offering what you suggest
above, you might offer evidence of your claim.

Mike

As I wrote it was 50 years ago. I doubted my boss and he showed me
with a chrome plated part. In the morning it was dulled. Enough for me
as I expect that the difference in the thickness of the plate is
enough to trash a bearing and make more work for us by causing a
failure that would make for unplanned outages of critical equipment.
We did have a planned schedule for bearing maintenance among other
things.

I have no other evidence to offer. I simply rarely use WD40. And
certainly not anywhere I am unable to clean it out with other
procedures.

Bob AZ

Thanks Bob - I appreciate the experience you share. Sorry if you had
shared it earlier and I missed that part. That experience might cause
more questions for me, than providing any evidence of corrosion, but at
least I know what you're standing on now.

I wonder if it was actually a nickeled item and not a chromed item that
discolored? I've had old nickel plated items stain/darken... never had that
happen with chrome.

John

On 12/29/10 11:04 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/29/10 10:18 PM, Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.


I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.


As I suspected, the chrome parts I soaked overnight came out clean and
shiny.
Maybe I'll leave them in a week.. or a month... or maybe a year, but I'm
fairly certain the results will be identical.

Note to self: WD40 makes a great chrome cleaner.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Bob AZ wrote:
....

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.
....

Utter nonsense, again.

50 years ago it was Stoddard solvent (think kerosene-like hydrocarbon)
and its latest MSDS is only a slight difference--I looked it up just
within the last couple months on another thread and posted both the MSDS
and the links to the universal chemical code data sheets.

--

Call the folks at "vxb.com" or go to their site and buy the expensive
ones. If you are not up on bearings ask their advice.

And if they advise a 608 bearing then what?

When you have the numbers off the removed bearings you go to the
vxb.com site and research what is available. Any questions, call them
and they will advise you. I have done this several times with them.

Bob AZ

And if they advise a 608 bearing then what?
------------------
It won't be for a Delta 14 inch bandsaw.

Lew

In article 79e8081e-e0c4-43c6-8365-
, says...

Call the folks at "vxb.com" or go to their site and buy the expensive
ones. If you are not up on bearings ask their advice.

And if they advise a 608 bearing then what?

When you have the numbers off the removed bearings you go to the
vxb.com site and research what is available. Any questions, call them
and they will advise you. I have done this several times with them.

WHOOSH. As expected.

Try using the stuff. The argument on this always comes down to two groups of
people.
1) Those that have experience using the product say it is corrosive or gums
up the works.
2) Those that quote the manufactures promotional materials and say it is a
degreaser and a lubricant. Something strike you wrong with that WD-40
advertising BS? Pehaps it degreases it's own lubricant?

Read some forums on people trying it on guns, carparts and other metal
parts. Most of them are disgusted with it's results contrary to what the
company, claiming they have never changed the formula since 1955, say. They
used to claim Stoddard Solvent and now claim WD-40 contains none. The list
goes on.

The product only provides temporary lubrication while it is wet. When all
the solvents dry out the degreased gum remains of the former lubrication
seizes up any parts that move with a shellac like-substance. The hygroscopic
feature absorbs moisture and leaves it behind to further damage the
degreased parts starting to lose their finishes.

People swear by the product for lubrication and reapply it every few weeks
or months. There is a reason for that.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16812

http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread465879/pg1

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...st-expert.html

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=430948

http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question...2190359AAM7ScD

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

http://yarchive.net/chem/wd40.html



"dpb" wrote in message
...
Utter nonsense, again.

50 years ago it was Stoddard solvent (think kerosene-like hydrocarbon)
and its latest MSDS is only a slight difference--I looked it up just
within the last couple months on another thread and posted both the MSDS
and the links to the universal chemical code data sheets.




Bob AZ wrote:

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not
improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look
at it in the morning.