I'm building a new spec house with arched windows. I worry myself about the
weirdest things but typcial me, I see the end result sometimes before I
think about what it will take to get there. Anyhoo, I needed to put a
radius trim piece above the window and called the local lumber yard to find
out how much I would be out of pocket for 4 arched pre-bent pieces about 8
feet long (made from a plastic based trim material). $120/piece sez he.
After my butt puckered a bit, I decided to take the task on myself.

Soooo, I went to the local lumberyard and bought 4 pieces of 5/4 red cedar,
3 sheets of 3/4" plywood and some plastic resin glue.

Now, just to warn you, I have seen this done on tv once. David marks did a
bent lamination. Can't even recall what it was, just the method stuck in my
head.

I made my radius pieces (forms if you will) from the 3/4" plywood. Then I
cut what seemed like a million 1/4" inch strips of cedar. Glued it all
together with plastic resin glue, clamped it together in the form with all
of my clamps, woke up in the morning and wa-la! Perfectly radiussed bent
lamination cedar. Cleaned them up with the belt sander, painted 'em, and
nailed them in place. Very cool. I recommend it to any one.

Now I am practiced up and waiting to do the inside trim with cvg fir.
SH

"Slowhand" writes:

I made my radius pieces (forms if you will) from the 3/4" plywood. Then I
cut what seemed like a million 1/4" inch strips of cedar. Glued it all
together with plastic resin glue, clamped it together in the form with all
of my clamps, woke up in the morning and wa-la! Perfectly radiussed bent
lamination cedar. Cleaned them up with the belt sander, painted 'em, and
nailed them in place. Very cool. I recommend it to any one.

Now I am practiced up and waiting to do the inside trim with cvg fir.

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

I just finished this project using bent laminations of ash 1/16" thick
for the runners and curved supports. Now that I have the forms it
wouldn't take as long to make another one. Using the longer setting
white glue helped.
http://www.woodshopphotos.com/albums..._IMG.sized.jpg
and...http://www.woodshopphotos.com/albums..._IMG.sized.jpg


"Slowhand" I'm@work wrote in message ...
I'm building a new spec house with arched windows. I worry myself about the
weirdest things but typcial me, I see the end result sometimes before I
think about what it will take to get there. Anyhoo, I needed to put a
radius trim piece above the window and called the local lumber yard to find
out how much I would be out of pocket for 4 arched pre-bent pieces about 8
feet long (made from a plastic based trim material). $120/piece sez he.
After my butt puckered a bit, I decided to take the task on myself.

Soooo, I went to the local lumberyard and bought 4 pieces of 5/4 red cedar,
3 sheets of 3/4" plywood and some plastic resin glue.

Now, just to warn you, I have seen this done on tv once. David marks did a
bent lamination. Can't even recall what it was, just the method stuck in my
head.

I made my radius pieces (forms if you will) from the 3/4" plywood. Then I
cut what seemed like a million 1/4" inch strips of cedar. Glued it all
together with plastic resin glue, clamped it together in the form with all
of my clamps, woke up in the morning and wa-la! Perfectly radiussed bent
lamination cedar. Cleaned them up with the belt sander, painted 'em, and
nailed them in place. Very cool. I recommend it to any one.

Now I am practiced up and waiting to do the inside trim with cvg fir.
SH

Maple I've used for laminations didn't have any springback. Used 4/4
stock and about 1/8" slabs and Titebond.

On 29 Apr 2004 05:58:52 -0700, (Conan The Librarian)
wrote:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message thlink.net...

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.


Chuck Vance

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message thlink.net...

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.


Chuck Vance

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"Slowhand" writes:

I made my radius pieces (forms if you will) from the 3/4" plywood. Then
I
cut what seemed like a million 1/4" inch strips of cedar. Glued it all
together with plastic resin glue, clamped it together in the form with
all
of my clamps, woke up in the morning and wa-la! Perfectly radiussed
bent
lamination cedar. Cleaned them up with the belt sander, painted 'em,
and
nailed them in place. Very cool. I recommend it to any one.

Now I am practiced up and waiting to do the inside trim with cvg fir.

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.

Not in this case. I nailed the crap out of it in place. Chances of spring
back are probably non existant.
SH

"Conan The Librarian" writes:

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.

Neither do I, it is sort of a by guess and by god thing.

It probably has a lot more to do with the type of wood you are working with
than anything else.

That's not much help, but it's all I can give you.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

On 29 Apr 2004 05:58:52 -0700, (Conan The Librarian)
brought forth from the murky depths:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message thlink.net...

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.

I believe it's all dependent upon the thickness of the wood, the type
of glue, the type of wood, the moisture content of the wood, the
relative humidity, room temperature during gluing, the phase of the
moon, and the way you're holding your mouth at the time.


================================================== ============
Like peace and quiet? Buy a phoneless cord.
http://www/diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
================================================== ============

On 29 Apr 2004 05:58:52 -0700, (Conan The Librarian)
wrote:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message thlink.net...

Congratulations.

Evidently spring back was not a problem.

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.


Chuck Vance


it depends how many laminations you have. the more layers, the less
spring.

"Conan The Librarian" wrote in message
m...

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.


I havn't done it yet, but plan to soon. I understand that the springback
mainly depends on how thick the laminations are. This make sense if you
think about it. Any time I've seen it done, though, the amount of
springback is just a WAG.

Frank

Conan The Librarian wrote:

How much do you allow for springback? I've never done bent
lamination, but it's on my list of techniques to try. I've read that
you need to bend past the final arc to compensate, but I have no clue
how much.

Chuck Vance

I used to have a chart stored on my system that estimated the amount of springback when dry bending based on lamination
thickness, radius of the bend and the type of wood used. I lost it somewhere along the line. I believe it originally came
from the Tauton Press "Fine Woodworking" web site. Google groups turns up a dead link to a "springback.htm" file. Searching
their site the chart may have been in "Fine Woodworking", Issue 164, July/August 2003 in an article on page 54:

LAMINATION BENDING
by Lon Schleining
Produce strong, tightly bent parts with minimal springback

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Nova wrote in message ...

I used to have a chart stored on my system that estimated the amount of springback when dry bending based on lamination
thickness, radius of the bend and the type of wood used. I lost it somewhere along the line. I believe it originally came
from the Tauton Press "Fine Woodworking" web site. Google groups turns up a dead link to a "springback.htm" file. Searching
their site the chart may have been in "Fine Woodworking", Issue 164, July/August 2003 in an article on page 54:

LAMINATION BENDING
by Lon Schleining
Produce strong, tightly bent parts with minimal springback

Thanks for the lead. I'll check the back issues here in our
collection.

To the others who responded: Thanks for your feedback. I kind of
figured the type, thickness, etc. would make the difference. I was
just curious if folks had specifics on particular species.


Chuck Vance