Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

wrote in message
...

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.


It works, but you really need TWO for long stock. See their web site:

http://www.microjig.com/

I like it for cutting small stock.

wrote in message
...

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

I bought the 2 fer package at a ww show several years back. I am not sure
why I waited so long. You can build the equivalent but not so elegantly and
they never seem to loose their grip.

They absolutely work. And if you cut thin stock there is 1/8" accesory
piece that you can switch out for one of the 1/4" sides.

And, they can be repaired if you damage them.

Some assembly required.

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:25:10 -0500, "
wrote:


Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

Bought a couple because of swingman. Definitely worth the cost to
have two of them.

Mike M

On Aug 13, 7:25*pm, "
wrote:
Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? *Opinions? *Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). *If they work, it's a pretty good deal. *

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

Check eBay - they have a package deal going.

R

"Leon" wrote

I bought the 2 fer package at a ww show several years back. I am not sure
why I waited so long. You can build the equivalent but not so elegantly
and they never seem to loose their grip.

They absolutely work. And if you cut thin stock there is 1/8" accesory
piece that you can switch out for one of the 1/4" sides.

Is there a place where they demonstrate the use of them better? I was
unable to see the advantages of using one.

From what I saw, it is just a push block with rubber on the bottom. I
gather there is more to it than that.
--
Jim in NC

On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime in
anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_, especially at that
price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be sorry. And be sure the model
you get has the "balance support" attachment; that's one of the handiest damn
things I've ever used (I think that attachment comes with the base model, but
I'd check to be sure).

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

I bought the 2 fer package at a ww show several years back. I am not
sure why I waited so long. You can build the equivalent but not so
elegantly and they never seem to loose their grip.

They absolutely work. And if you cut thin stock there is 1/8" accesory
piece that you can switch out for one of the 1/4" sides.

Is there a place where they demonstrate the use of them better? I was
unable to see the advantages of using one.

From what I saw, it is just a push block with rubber on the bottom. I
gather there is more to it than that.
--
Jim in NC


Go the manufacutrer web site there are videos. It is just a push block but
configurable and quickly adjusted.

On Aug 13, 7:25*pm, "
wrote:
Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? *Opinions? *Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). *If they work, it's a pretty good deal. *

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

Pusher shoes can be lined with good, old-fashioned sticky
friction tape to increase grip. The tape holds its grip for a
long time, way after the annoying snotlike stickiness dries
up.

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 21:39:21 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime in
anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_, especially at that
price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be sorry. And be sure the model
you get has the "balance support" attachment; that's one of the handiest damn
things I've ever used (I think that attachment comes with the base model, but
I'd check to be sure).

I guess I'll have to do some more research to see exactly what this package
is. It's billed as the "Gripper 200 Advanced Model". Perhaps I'll order a
couple (after checking eBay, too). Thanks, all!

On 8/13/2010 10:13 PM, Morgans wrote:
wrote

I bought the 2 fer package at a ww show several years back. I am not sure
why I waited so long. You can build the equivalent but not so elegantly
and they never seem to loose their grip.

They absolutely work. And if you cut thin stock there is 1/8" accesory
piece that you can switch out for one of the 1/4" sides.

Is there a place where they demonstrate the use of them better? I was
unable to see the advantages of using one.

From what I saw, it is just a push block with rubber on the bottom. I
gather there is more to it than that.

There is--gaps and adjustability. I got one a while back and am
thinking about getting a second.

On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

I've kept two around for years now, one for each hand on the jointer,
when running stock over a dado stack, or on the router table. Excellent
for ripping thin strips and smaller pieces with much more control.

Would not be without them. Highly adjustable, worth every penny, and
they'll cut back dramatically on trips to the emergency room.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 21:39:21 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime
in
anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_, especially at
that
price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be sorry. And be sure the
model
you get has the "balance support" attachment; that's one of the handiest
damn
things I've ever used (I think that attachment comes with the base model,
but
I'd check to be sure).

I guess I'll have to do some more research to see exactly what this
package
is. It's billed as the "Gripper 200 Advanced Model". Perhaps I'll order
a
couple (after checking eBay, too). Thanks, all!


One last thing here, these things are meant to be sacrificial. As I
mentioned earlier you buy and replace most any part.

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different applications.
One that interested me in particular was the woodworker that cuts narrow
veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top side zero clearance
insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will ride along the side of
your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the gripper against the fence
to insure that cut after cut the blade followed the same path through the
gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer. Very interesting and
effective.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 06:26:58 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

I've kept two around for years now, one for each hand on the jointer,
when running stock over a dado stack, or on the router table. Excellent
for ripping thin strips and smaller pieces with much more control.

Would not be without them. Highly adjustable, worth every penny, and
they'll cut back dramatically on trips to the emergency room.

You cut down on your number of trips to the ER, eh? How many fewer
trips will I make if I stick to the regular $1.99 plastic/foam push
tools?

Love my gripper. Buy 2, and get the set.
better than most ... I use it on the router table too.
Great grip, and nice design.
I still use home made occasionally but only when I am going to cut thru
the gripper because of a weird setup.

On 8/13/2010 7:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

When you say balance support you mean the bridge?
I don't see how the bridge enhances feel any different than the normal
mount position. I do see it useful for joining two or using the
deflector. But not for grip. What am I missing.

On 8/13/2010 10:39 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime
in anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_,
especially at that price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be
sorry. And be sure the model you get has the "balance support"
attachment; that's one of the handiest damn things I've ever used (I
think that attachment comes with the base model, but I'd check to be sure).

"tiredofspam" nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
When you say balance support you mean the bridge?
I don't see how the bridge enhances feel any different than the normal
mount position. I do see it useful for joining two or using the deflector.
But not for grip. What am I missing.

On 8/13/2010 10:39 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime
in anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_,
especially at that price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be
sorry. And be sure the model you get has the "balance support"
attachment; that's one of the handiest damn things I've ever used (I
think that attachment comes with the base model, but I'd check to be
sure).


Balance support = angle plate that bolts to the side. Keeps the gripper from
rocking if used on narrow stock.

"Leon" wrote

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different applications.
One that interested me in particular was the woodworker that cuts narrow
veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top side zero clearance
insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will ride along the side of
your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the gripper against the
fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed the same path
through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer. Very
interesting and effective.

UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough
detail to see how they work.

I have a couple comments.

They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks
like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all
your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think. I
know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school
woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard.
Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.

Another comment is that the blade is still going to be left unguarded before
and after the cut. In the two semi-serious shop table saw accidents I have
been around (one was me at the very beginning of my woodworking, long long
ago- the other was a student in my shop class) the accident would likely
still have happened, because the problem took place after the cut.
--
Jim in NC

On 8/14/2010 4:20 PM, CW wrote:
"tiredofspam"nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
When you say balance support you mean the bridge?
I don't see how the bridge enhances feel any different than the normal
mount position. I do see it useful for joining two or using the deflector.
But not for grip. What am I missing.

On 8/13/2010 10:39 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 8/13/2010 6:25 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them
for
$42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.

They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I
suppose).

You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime
in anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_,
especially at that price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be
sorry. And be sure the model you get has the "balance support"
attachment; that's one of the handiest damn things I've ever used (I
think that attachment comes with the base model, but I'd check to be
sure).


Balance support = angle plate that bolts to the side. Keeps the gripper from
rocking if used on narrow stock.

Yes; if you're ripping a narrow piece that's taller than it is wide and the
cutoff will also be too narrow for the second blade-straddling "leg" on the
Gripper to rest, attaching the "balance support" (which extends down to the
table surface) gives you back that second leg along with the stability it
offers. Passing tall narrow pieces between the fence and blade is considerably
more stable and safe with this arrangement as compared to traditional push
stick jigs.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 8/14/2010 7:41 PM, Morgans wrote:
wrote

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different applications.
One that interested me in particular was the woodworker that cuts narrow
veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top side zero clearance
insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will ride along the side of
your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the gripper against the
fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed the same path
through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer. Very
interesting and effective.

UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough
detail to see how they work.

I have a couple comments.

They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks
like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all
your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think. I
know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Depends on what you're doing. If you've got a production job to run
then a few minutes setup time can cut the recurring way down.

Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school
woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard.
Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.

In a school setting where you _must_ use an OSHA approved guard how do
you teach how to use jigs and fixtures that won't work with the guard,
or do you just not do that?

Another comment is that the blade is still going to be left unguarded before
and after the cut. In the two semi-serious shop table saw accidents I have
been around (one was me at the very beginning of my woodworking, long long
ago- the other was a student in my shop class) the accident would likely
still have happened, because the problem took place after the cut.

The only thing that will prevent accidents "after the cut" is a Sawstop
and it won't prevent all of them.

"J. Clarke" wrote

Depends on what you're doing. If you've got a production job to run then
a few minutes setup time can cut the recurring way down.

No doubt on that account. If I have to do more that 6 or so parts, or they
have to be to a very high degree of identical precision, I am first to jig
up somehow. I take pride in that fact.

In a school setting where you _must_ use an OSHA approved guard how do you
teach how to use jigs and fixtures that won't work with the guard, or do
you just not do that?

I design jigs and fixtures that will work with OSHA approved guards, 98
percent of the time. Occasionally I switch out the splitter/ overhead
plastic blade guard to a suspended guard for the cuts that do not penetrate
all of the way through. I have a 12" 5 HP saw that will go through in one
cut most of the time, unless it is a cut that is not supposed to go all of
the way through.

Many (most) cuts that are not rip type operations using the rip fence are
done on the radial arm saws, or power miter saws, or something else. That
eliminates many types of operations that are difficult to perform/jig on the
table saw. I have another table saw that lives with a dado blade (most of
the time) and a suspended guard. That also helps it to be practical to use
OSHA guards on the primary table saw.

My remaining 2 percent operations I do use with homemade guards and jigs,
but the blade is never left unguarded for an operation that the students
will be performing at any time-before during or after the cut. If there is
something that has to be done for a quick operation that is not practical or
possible to guard, I make it as safe as possible, and perform the cut
myself. I do emphasise that I still demonstrate a safe operation, and use
imaginative solutions in making it possible to fully guard the blade. Even
though it may not be a commercially produced guard, it still will meet the
spirit of the OSHA regulation.

Does all of this slow down operations in the shop? Believe it or not, I
think only slightly. I have gotten so used to using all of the guards as
they are and using guards and proceedures that I have developed, I have a
supply of jigs and guards that make extra setup and use time pretty minimal.

The only thing that will prevent accidents "after the cut" is a Sawstop
and it won't prevent all of them.

From my viewing of the Sawstop machine, I disagree. Other than a nick that
does not require more than a band-aid, or a broken Sawstop machine, that is
the best sure-fire prevention of serious injury I have ever seen. I wish it
was available in a 12 inch blade, and a higher HP motor, and did not cost
several arms and legs to purchase. ;-)
--
Jim in NC

On 8/15/2010 12:40 AM, Morgans wrote:
"J. wrote

Depends on what you're doing. If you've got a production job to run then
a few minutes setup time can cut the recurring way down.

No doubt on that account. If I have to do more that 6 or so parts, or they
have to be to a very high degree of identical precision, I am first to jig
up somehow. I take pride in that fact.

In a school setting where you _must_ use an OSHA approved guard how do you
teach how to use jigs and fixtures that won't work with the guard, or do
you just not do that?

I design jigs and fixtures that will work with OSHA approved guards, 98
percent of the time. Occasionally I switch out the splitter/ overhead
plastic blade guard to a suspended guard for the cuts that do not penetrate
all of the way through. I have a 12" 5 HP saw that will go through in one
cut most of the time, unless it is a cut that is not supposed to go all of
the way through.

Many (most) cuts that are not rip type operations using the rip fence are
done on the radial arm saws, or power miter saws, or something else. That
eliminates many types of operations that are difficult to perform/jig on the
table saw. I have another table saw that lives with a dado blade (most of
the time) and a suspended guard. That also helps it to be practical to use
OSHA guards on the primary table saw.

My remaining 2 percent operations I do use with homemade guards and jigs,
but the blade is never left unguarded for an operation that the students
will be performing at any time-before during or after the cut. If there is
something that has to be done for a quick operation that is not practical or
possible to guard, I make it as safe as possible, and perform the cut
myself. I do emphasise that I still demonstrate a safe operation, and use
imaginative solutions in making it possible to fully guard the blade. Even
though it may not be a commercially produced guard, it still will meet the
spirit of the OSHA regulation.

Does all of this slow down operations in the shop? Believe it or not, I
think only slightly. I have gotten so used to using all of the guards as
they are and using guards and proceedures that I have developed, I have a
supply of jigs and guards that make extra setup and use time pretty minimal.

The only thing that will prevent accidents "after the cut" is a Sawstop
and it won't prevent all of them.

From my viewing of the Sawstop machine, I disagree. Other than a nick that
does not require more than a band-aid, or a broken Sawstop machine, that is
the best sure-fire prevention of serious injury I have ever seen. I wish it
was available in a 12 inch blade, and a higher HP motor, and did not cost
several arms and legs to purchase. ;-)

Won't stop thrown-object injuries, just hand-in-blade injuries.

"Morgans" writes:

From what I saw, it is just a push block with rubber on the bottom. I
gather there is more to it than that.

Most of the push blocks I have I push to the side, or push forward.
With the Gr-r-ripper, I can push straight down, and feel very
comfortable doing this.


Yes, I could make lots of push blocks with slits and holes, but it's
easy to just shift the middle pieces to the left or right to match the
cut I am doing.

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different
applications. One that interested me in particular was the woodworker
that cuts narrow veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top
side zero clearance insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will
ride along the side of your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the
gripper against the fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed
the same path through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer.
Very interesting and effective.

UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough
detail to see how they work.

I have a couple comments.

They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks
like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all
your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Set up can be complicated if you want to use all the different
configurations. But for 99% of my common cuts it takes me about 5-6 seconds
to get the proper adjustement for material thickness and width. Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.



Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school
woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard.
Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.

That is correct in some instances. Will your guard set up properly, when
ripping stock to 1/8" widths, or when cutting dado's?




Another comment is that the blade is still going to be left unguarded
before and after the cut. In the two semi-serious shop table saw
accidents I have been around (one was me at the very beginning of my
woodworking, long long ago- the other was a student in my shop class) the
accident would likely still have happened, because the problem took place
after the cut.
--
Jim in NC

It is certainly not a fool proof safety device. But it is the best of its
kind if you are one of the majority of users that do not use the typical
blade guard.

I a school setting I see your point, might also want to consider upgrading
to a SawStop because as you have witnessed sooner or later the blade is
going to get you given enough time. My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.

"Morgans" wrote in message
...


From my viewing of the Sawstop machine, I disagree. Other than a nick
that does not require more than a band-aid, or a broken Sawstop machine,
that is the best sure-fire prevention of serious injury I have ever seen.
I wish it was available in a 12 inch blade, and a higher HP motor, and did
not cost several arms and legs to purchase. ;-)
--
Jim in NC


I can assure you from personal experience that if you can afford several
arms and legs to buy a SawStop that the first time it performs it's safety
function it has many times over more than paid for itself condisering
medical costs, loss of personal function, and or personal liability if some
one else is injured.

On 8/15/2010 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message

I have a couple comments.

Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.

Agreed. Universal truth, in "New Math" context:

Ignorance = It - what you don't know about It

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon wrote:
My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.

Not sure, but my guess is after the saw is turned off, saw stop will no
longer work?

--
Jack
Got Change: God Bless America ====== God Damn Amerika!
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 12:37:11 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 8/15/2010 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message

I have a couple comments.

Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.

Agreed. Universal truth, in "New Math" context:

Ignorance = It - what you don't know about It

Ignorance = IT - what you KNOW about IT

....but I actually liked "new math". ;-)

On 8/15/2010 3:17 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 12:37:11 -0500, wrote:

On 8/15/2010 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message

I have a couple comments.

Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.

Agreed. Universal truth, in "New Math" context:

Ignorance = It - what you don't know about It

Ignorance = IT - what you KNOW about IT

Nope, that's "math".

...but I actually liked "new math". ;-)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 8/15/2010 12:55 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

wrote

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different
applications. One that interested me in particular was the woodworker
that cuts narrow veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top
side zero clearance insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will
ride along the side of your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the
gripper against the fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed
the same path through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer.
Very interesting and effective.

UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough
detail to see how they work.

I have a couple comments.

They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks
like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all
your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Set up can be complicated if you want to use all the different
configurations. But for 99% of my common cuts it takes me about 5-6 seconds
to get the proper adjustement for material thickness and width. Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.



Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school
woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard.
Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.

That is correct in some instances. Will your guard set up properly, when
ripping stock to 1/8" widths, or when cutting dado's?

"By the book" you're supposed to rip it with the wide piece between the
fence and the blade and move the fence for every cut or use the off-cut
as a spacer rather than just setting the fence and cutting. Here's a
video (not mine--it's amazing what you can find by searching youtube)
showing the "safe" way to rip 1/8" widths:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM

Extra credit: What safety rules does _he_ violate in that video?

Another comment is that the blade is still going to be left unguarded
before and after the cut. In the two semi-serious shop table saw
accidents I have been around (one was me at the very beginning of my
woodworking, long long ago- the other was a student in my shop class) the
accident would likely still have happened, because the problem took place
after the cut.
--
Jim in NC

It is certainly not a fool proof safety device. But it is the best of its
kind if you are one of the majority of users that do not use the typical
blade guard.

I a school setting I see your point, might also want to consider upgrading
to a SawStop because as you have witnessed sooner or later the blade is
going to get you given enough time. My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:45:58 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

On 8/15/2010 12:55 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

wrote

That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting
video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different
applications. One that interested me in particular was the woodworker
that cuts narrow veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top
side zero clearance insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will
ride along the side of your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the
gripper against the fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed
the same path through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer.
Very interesting and effective.

UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough
detail to see how they work.

I have a couple comments.

They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks
like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all
your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think.
I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.

Set up can be complicated if you want to use all the different
configurations. But for 99% of my common cuts it takes me about 5-6 seconds
to get the proper adjustement for material thickness and width. Before I
actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them
demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks
and pushers, and hold downs aside.



Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school
woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard.
Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.

That is correct in some instances. Will your guard set up properly, when
ripping stock to 1/8" widths, or when cutting dado's?

"By the book" you're supposed to rip it with the wide piece between the
fence and the blade and move the fence for every cut or use the off-cut
as a spacer rather than just setting the fence and cutting. Here's a
video (not mine--it's amazing what you can find by searching youtube)
showing the "safe" way to rip 1/8" widths:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM

Extra credit: What safety rules does _he_ violate in that video?

Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its
winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.

Yeah. A simple DPDT switch to dynamically brake that blade would make that
long blafe wind-down wait much shorter and probably more done (waited) by
more users.


wrote in message
...
Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its
winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.

Not sure, but my guess is after the saw is turned off, saw stop will no
longer work?


Nope, I confirmed this about 8 years ago. Turning the SawStop motor off
does not turn off its ability to dectct flesh while the blade is still
spinning. Until the blade stops spinning the brake works as it would when
cutting wood.

IIRC there are 2 switches, the main that powers the safety device and also
powers the switch to turn the saw on. Also IIRC the system has to power up
so to speak before you can turn the saw on. If during the initial power up
a fault is detected you can not turn the saw on.

8 years ago. The saw only hit the market 2 years ago.
8 years ago it was still being demoed to the other manufacturers.

On 8/15/2010 7:25 PM, Leon wrote:
"Jack wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.

Not sure, but my guess is after the saw is turned off, saw stop will no
longer work?


Nope, I confirmed this about 8 years ago. Turning the SawStop motor off
does not turn off its ability to dectct flesh while the blade is still
spinning. Until the blade stops spinning the brake works as it would when
cutting wood.

IIRC there are 2 switches, the main that powers the safety device and also
powers the switch to turn the saw on. Also IIRC the system has to power up
so to speak before you can turn the saw on. If during the initial power up
a fault is detected you can not turn the saw on.

tiredofspam wrote:

8 years ago. The saw only hit the market 2 years ago.
8 years ago it was still being demoed to the other manufacturers.


From Sawatop web site at:

http://www.sawstop.com/company/story.php

"As a long-time woodworker, Steve committed himself to designing a
cabinet saw with all the precision and features he had ever wanted in a
table saw. By 2003, plans and designs were drafted. The first prototypes
were completed and the first production models came off of the
manufacturing line in late 2004. By the beginning of 2005 SawStop the
company, had became a reality.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 8/15/2010 6:25 PM, Josepi wrote:
Yeah. A simple DPDT switch to dynamically brake that blade would make that
long blafe wind-down wait much shorter and probably more done (waited) by
more users.

1

(get it?)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Edge Banding (1/8"-1/4" x 3/4" strips)

Set up the fence, adjust blade to 1/4" max exposure, remove splitter
and anti kick back pawls and use a push block at least 3/4" wide x
5"-6" high which is a sacrifical.

Remember the cut is not complete until the push block clears the bak
of the table.

Yes, a runout table is required.

NEVER reach over the saw blade to retrieve stock for the next cut.

Walk around.

Works for me.

YMMV

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote

Set up the fence, adjust blade to 1/4" max exposure, remove splitter and
anti kick back pawls and use a push block at least 3/4" wide x 5"-6" high
which is a sacrifical.

Probably a safe way to do the job, but....

You would not want to be the guy paying the OSHA fine, if that were to come
to pass in this shop.

I'm just saying.....
--
Jim in NC

Leon wrote:
"Jack Stein" wrote in message
Leon wrote:
My injury was also after the cut and
after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.
Not sure, but my guess is after the saw is turned off, saw stop will no
longer work?

Nope, I confirmed this about 8 years ago. Turning the SawStop motor off
does not turn off its ability to dectct flesh while the blade is still
spinning. Until the blade stops spinning the brake works as it would when
cutting wood.

IIRC there are 2 switches, the main that powers the safety device and also
powers the switch to turn the saw on. Also IIRC the system has to power up
so to speak before you can turn the saw on. If during the initial power up
a fault is detected you can not turn the saw on.

Sounds like a winner... Sounded pretty good before. My next saw will
probably be a sawstop or similar. My saw is barely broke in though,
it's only about 56 years old and should have that much left in her... I
did look at a saw stop a few years ago and it looks great, Over priced
perhaps, but still looked like a nice saw, even w/o the saw stop stuff.
If I were buying a new saw, I'd probably buy one so my kid wouldn't cut
off an arm after he inherits my tools... and, the older I get, the more
dangerous I get!

--
Jack
Don't worry about your health... It'll go away!
http://jbstein.com

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Extra credit: What safety rules does _he_ violate in that video?

Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its
winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.

Hmmm, I reach around the blade while it's running, running down,
thinking about running. Of course, I don't have a blade guard so maybe
I pay more attention... Of course as I get older, my attention span is
shrinking a little.... What to do, what to do? 50 years of dangerous
habits are hard to break:-)

--
Jack
Gun control is not about guns; it's about control.
http://jbstein.com