I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one to get.
Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99. I
hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite the
bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker and don't
know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.

Sam,
You can buy the basic model now and buy the update kit later if you
think you will need it after using the basic model.
Ted
Sam wrote:
I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one
to get.
Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for
69.99. I
hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite
the
bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker
and don't
know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.

"Sam" wrote in message news:yRB7e.15112$Bb3.9081@attbi_s22...
I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one to
get.
Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99. I
hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite the
bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker and
don't
know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.


I bought the advanced model and have not been sorry. I keep discovering new
uses for it.

Vic

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:08:30 GMT, "Sam" wrote:

Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99.

I didn't spend that much on my cat, let alone my push stick.

Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99. I
hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite the
bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker and
don't
know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.

Go the deluxe model. Once you have it, you will use it for a lot of cuts on
the tablesaw and a lot of profile passes on the router table.
See my review for more detailed information:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/grr-ripper.htm

--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- WoodHaven Biscuit Master
- Veritas Saddle Square
- EZ Smart Guide System
- Ryobi EBS1310VK Belt Sander
- Incra V27 Miter Gauge
- GMC BJ110 Biscuit Joiner
------------------------------------------------------------

Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99.

I didn't spend that much on my cat, let alone my push stick.


I thought the same until I actually received one. Now I'd pay double the
price because it is a terribly useful and safe 'push stick' :-)
In fact, I picked up a second.


--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- WoodHaven Biscuit Master
- Veritas Saddle Square
- EZ Smart Guide System
- Ryobi EBS1310VK Belt Sander
- Incra V27 Miter Gauge
- GMC BJ110 Biscuit Joiner
------------------------------------------------------------

Andy Dingley says...

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:08:30 GMT, "Sam" wrote:

Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99.

I didn't spend that much on my cat, let alone my push stick.

Or if you really like it, you could make a copy out of wood. Now that
I've seen it, I think I will make a copy.

You won't regret using either one. I use my high dollar one for
everything and don't use any of my old stand by sticks, etc.
And your fingers will probably all stay attached too!
Robert Smith
Jacksonville, Fl.


Sam wrote:
I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one
to get.
Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for
69.99. I
hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite
the
bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker
and don't
know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:08:30 GMT, "Sam" wrote:

I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one to get.

OK, well I for one hate it and think it's unsafe.

The problem is that it passes _over_ the blade, which requires you to
do through rips with the blade lowered. I do these with the blade as
_high_ as possible, because that reduces the horizontal component of
blade friction against the work, a major contributor to kickback.
Using the Grr-Ripper would require me to lower my blade, which I'm
just not prepared to do.

So, back to the "long stick" pushstick for me. I also like the idea
that a push stick made from scrap can cheerfully be stuck _through_ a
blade, if that's the best way to use it. I'm never tempted to do
something less safe, just to avoid damaging my expensive stick.

It also requires that you don't have a crown guard over the top of the
blade, which raises a few European eyebrows - admittedly the younger
or pinstripe-suit wearing ones.

OK, well I for one hate it and think it's unsafe.

The problem is that it passes _over_ the blade, which requires you to
do through rips with the blade lowered. I do these with the blade as
_high_ as possible, because that reduces the horizontal component of
blade friction against the work, a major contributor to kickback.
Using the Grr-Ripper would require me to lower my blade, which I'm
just not prepared to do.

So, back to the "long stick" pushstick for me. I also like the idea
that a push stick made from scrap can cheerfully be stuck _through_ a
blade, if that's the best way to use it. I'm never tempted to do
something less safe, just to avoid damaging my expensive stick.

It also requires that you don't have a crown guard over the top of the
blade, which raises a few European eyebrows - admittedly the younger
or pinstripe-suit wearing ones.

Do you actually have one?
Remmeber that the GRR-Ripper provides a good amount of force down on the
workpiece as well to help stop it rising up on the back of the blade if it
did pinch. Then you have the MJ splitter to further help prevent that.
Because both sides of the workpiece are supported, and hence kept seperated
during and after the cut, the chance of pinching with the grr-ripper and MJ
splitter installed is reduced greatly.
Also, you can cut into the GRR-Ripper with your saw bladse and it won't
damage the blade.
As for blade guards, well its really a moving blade guard. Your fingers are
not in danger. I happen to feel MUCH safer using the device, especially when
cutting narrow stock, than using a traditional push stick and standard blade
guard, which you can't really use easily for narrow cuts anyway.

Dean

Read the orginal post...answer the man's question....he did not ask if
you were to damn tight to spend a buck....he asked if he needed the
advanced model..So if you do not own one , do not post ..It drives me
crazy that someone would put a product down that has never used one let
alone have enough intellligence to want to use one. Why do you have to
be so damn negative against a great idea? If you choose not to buy
one, so keep quite about it.

Andy Dingley says...

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:08:30 GMT, "Sam" wrote:

I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one to get.

OK, well I for one hate it and think it's unsafe.

The problem is that it passes _over_ the blade, which requires you to
do through rips with the blade lowered. I do these with the blade as
_high_ as possible, because that reduces the horizontal component of
blade friction against the work, a major contributor to kickback.
Using the Grr-Ripper would require me to lower my blade, which I'm
just not prepared to do.

Actually, it sits pretty darned high. Looks like you can have a good
2" blade sticking out of the stock before it hits the gadget.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:29:10 +1000, "Woodcrafter"
wrote:

Do you actually have one?

Of course not. I've only just seen the picture (prompted by this
thread) and I don't like the compromise it would force me to make on
where I run the blade.

Remmeber that the GRR-Ripper provides a good amount of force down on the
workpiece as well to help stop it rising up on the back of the blade if it
did pinch.

Can _you_ arm-wrestle your saw ? I know I can't.

Then you have the MJ splitter to further help prevent that.

I've got a riving knife anyway, which also has the advantage I don't
have to reach past the blade to insert a wedge splitter.

Also, you can cut into the GRR-Ripper with your saw bladse and it won't
damage the blade.

Nor will my sticks.

As for blade guards, well its really a moving blade guard. Your fingers are
not in danger.

My fingers simply don't go that close to the blade. Now it has some
guarding, that's accepted, but it's still never going to be as safe as
simply not having your hands there at all.

cutting narrow stock, than using a traditional push stick and standard blade
guard, which you can't really use easily for narrow cuts anyway.

I use a narrow push stick. If it's a bit too wide, I left it get
trimmed by the blade.

I bought the full package because that is all they had. I use the basic
part frequently, but have never used the rest. YMMV.

"Hax Planx" wrote in message
.net...


Or if you really like it, you could make a copy out of wood. Now that
I've seen it, I think I will make a copy.

You'll lose a lot of little nuances in functionality in a wood copy. You
really can't appreciate them just by looking at a picture.

Bob

Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do
not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to
work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want
to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific
help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with
a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers
and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper.
Mike from American Sycamore

Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do
not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to
work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want
to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific
help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with
a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers
and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper.
Mike from American Sycamore

Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do
not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to
work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want
to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific
help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with
a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers
and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper.
Mike from American Sycamore

Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do
not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to
work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want
to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific
help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with
a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers
and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper.
Mike from American Sycamore

wrote:

Read the orginal post...answer the man's question....he did not ask if
you were to damn tight to spend a buck....he asked if he needed the
advanced model..So if you do not own one , do not post ..
Who are you talking to? The reference headers make it look like you
posted this as a response to Woodcrafter, but he clearly is saying the
same thing. Quoting some context would make your post make more sense.

It drives me
crazy that someone would put a product down that has never used one let
alone have enough intellligence to want to use one.
And it drives others of us crazy that someone would post without using
a real newsreader, especially if they don't have the intelligence to
use one. g

Why do you have to
be so damn negative against a great idea? If you choose not to buy
one, so keep quite about it.
If you choose not to quote relevant material in your replies, keep
quite quiet.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
On 14 Apr 2005 20:33:56 -0700, wrote:

Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do
not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to
work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want
to take the time to build.

If I didn't have shop made versions, I could do it with my $7 jointer
push blocks.

SEVEN DOLLARS for "jointer push blocks"??!! ... you must be rich. ;)

Actually, that's what I thought until I actually scored a pair of subject
devices. I do think they're pricy and that, unfortunately, puts the device
into the realm of the "boy toy" for those who have more money than
experience and must have one or two of everything and damn the cost.

However, if they cost only $12, my bet is that you would throw away those
"$7 jointer push blocks" in a heartbeat, G

The bottom line for any tool/device/jig/whatever is whether you would
replace it if it were lost or stolen ... I would be guilty in this case.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/14/05

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:13:20 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

If I didn't have shop made versions, I could do it with my $7 jointer
push blocks.

The bright orange set of three ?

I've got a set of those - I should have saved the money. They're a
nice idea and the bright orange colour stops me loosing them, but the
black rubber base is poor quality and falls apart. When I realised
this was leaving black marks on the workpiece, I had to replace it.

Next time I'd just make my own.

On 14 Apr 2005 20:33:56 -0700, wrote:

I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces
of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony

First of all, that's a bandsaw job, just to avoid the kerf wastage and
the risk of shattering brittle ebony. Secondly you rip it long and
crosscut later.

I do rip 1/4" thick strips fairly often and I do it with a long stick
that's a shade under 1/4" wide. This also has a long foot on it. Now
this stick gives as good control of the workpiece as Grr-Ripper, keeps
my hands further from the blade, but it does require rather more user
dexterity.

If I was ripping lots of this material, I'd quite possibly make a
Grr-Ripper-like device. If I only need it to work at one setting and
not be adjustable, then this is easy. Even if I _liked_ the idea,
this is still an expensive gadget and I can make my own.

The thing I just don't like about Grr-Ripper is the need to lower the
sawblade. Now that in itself is a contributor to hazard - no safety
device that requires you to change something to make it even more
hazardous can be an entirely good thing.

Grr-Ripper is a clever device. It looks well made and well-thought out
as a piece of engineering. If I were sawing grooves into shoji
runners, I might well want such a device - a flat plate with a heel
hook behind and a side straddle to stop it wobbling. But this is a
pretty contrived example - I _have_ such pushblocks already
(job-specific) and my point is that I'd never think of using them for
ripping, because of the blade height.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...

this stick gives as good control of the workpiece as Grr-Ripper

Andy, I have a lot of respect for you and your breadth of knowledge. I view
you as renaissance man and you contribute a lot to this conference. I'm
disappointed in reading this thread. I think you've ripped your britches
giving such firm opinions about a device it appears you've never even used
for a minute. It hurts your otherwise outstanding credibility.

Bob

sorry for the multi-post....some reason my computer was real slow and I
thought it was not posting......second thing....you can lead a horse to
water but you can not make them drink.....stupid is stupid....and some
people can not see the forrest because of the woods.....not going to
change some hard-headed persons mind...so I won't try...I give up!
Don't care if you want to take a chance on cutting all your damn
fingers off, just don't do it in my shop...I won't let you
Mike

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 13:51:43 GMT, "BillyBob"
wrote:

I think you've ripped your britches giving such firm opinions about a device it appears you've never even used

That's a fair comment, in general don't listen to the guy who hasn't
actually used it. And I might just be plain wrong - wouldn't be the
first time. I'm still waiting to hear any rebuttal of my key point
though.

I don't like this thing because it requires me to lower the blade when
ripping, something I think is more dangerous than any advantage gained
by using it. Now if you personally disagree over the positioning
issue, then that's fair comment - but you don't need to _handle_ the
Grr-Ripper to know that it's going to involve it.

There are a few cases when it could be useful. But for these I can
make a push block as I need it - I don't need adjustability.

As an adjustable push block, it's a great piece of work. But I don't
need an adjustable push block, and this is an expensive substitute for
a simple non-adjustable one.

BillyBob says...

You'll lose a lot of little nuances in functionality in a wood copy. You
really can't appreciate them just by looking at a picture.

Bob

I don't doubt they are nice, but somewhere you have to draw the line
when it comes to tool indulgence.

on 4/15/2005 4:18 PM Hax Planx said the following:
BillyBob says...

You'll lose a lot of little nuances in functionality in a wood copy. You
really can't appreciate them just by looking at a picture.

Bob

I don't doubt they are nice, but somewhere you have to draw the line
when it comes to tool indulgence.


Why?

g

You really don't get it.
With the gripper YOU can actually control the workpiece and YOU
can't do that with a long push stick. (and the splitter is
"permanently" installed. You don't reach across the blade to install it
as you're ripping.)
Robert Smith
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:29:10 +1000, "Woodcrafter"
wrote:

Do you actually have one?

Of course not. I've only just seen the picture (prompted by this
thread) and I don't like the compromise it would force me to make on
where I run the blade.

Remmeber that the GRR-Ripper provides a good amount of force down on
the
workpiece as well to help stop it rising up on the back of the blade
if it
did pinch.

Can _you_ arm-wrestle your saw ? I know I can't.

Then you have the MJ splitter to further help prevent that.

I've got a riving knife anyway, which also has the advantage I don't
have to reach past the blade to insert a wedge splitter.

Also, you can cut into the GRR-Ripper with your saw bladse and it
won't
damage the blade.

Nor will my sticks.

As for blade guards, well its really a moving blade guard. Your
fingers are
not in danger.

My fingers simply don't go that close to the blade. Now it has some
guarding, that's accepted, but it's still never going to be as safe
as
simply not having your hands there at all.

cutting narrow stock, than using a traditional push stick and
standard blade
guard, which you can't really use easily for narrow cuts anyway.

I use a narrow push stick. If it's a bit too wide, I left it get
trimmed by the blade.

On 15 Apr 2005 17:15:42 -0700, "Knotbob" wrote:

With the gripper YOU can actually control the workpiece and YOU
can't do that with a long push stick.

Just because it's called a "stick" doesn't mean it has to look like a
twig. You can put a base on them that's just as big and controllable
as the Grr-Ripper.

The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.


(and the splitter is "permanently" installed. You don't reach across the blade to install it
as you're ripping.)

Sorry, I worded that badly - I was thinking about separate wedge
splitters (which is what I'd have to use if I'd dropped my riving
knife off for a cut).

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.

I assume you either have not used a Grr-ripper or the blade on your saw is
12" or larger. As far as I know, the Grr-ripper is designed to completely
clear the portion of a 10" blade that extends above the table when fully
raised. It's a little late at night to do it now, but tomorrow I will go
out into the shop (a/k/a the garage) and confirm this. I will also mount a
12" blade in my old saw and see how close that clearance is. Perhaps I'll
even post a photo or two at a-b-p-w.

Lee


--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message

The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.

Just for the sake of discussion, how much higher than the wood do you raise
the blade? My experience with ripping is that the cleanest cuts are ones
where the blade is about halfway between the bottom and top of the deepest
gullets, with the emphasis on making sure that the carbide tips are above
the wood at the top of the rise.

"Lee Gordon" wrote in message
...
The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.

Not sure what the problem is that he's having, but the pictures on the
microjig.com website shows that it can easily clear 5" which is well above
the maximum height of a 10" blade.

Upscale wrote:

"Lee Gordon" wrote in message
...
The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.

Not sure what the problem is that he's having, but the pictures on the
microjig.com website shows that it can easily clear 5" which is well above
the maximum height of a 10" blade.

Huh? Looking at the Microjig site, they claim that the narrow leg is 1/4"
wide. Scaling from that the throat depth is about an inch. Now, scaling
from an online photo is not the most accurate process in the world, but
still there's no way I'm off by a factor of 5 on that.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...

I don't like this thing because it requires me to lower the blade when
ripping, something I think is more dangerous than any advantage gained
by using it.

I don't understand the mechanics of the danger of lowering the blade when
ripping. Could you elaborate? My understanding is that kickback originates
at the rear of the blade with the teeth catching the wood enough to kick it
back. How does lowering the blade increase the likelihood of this process
happening?

Thanks,
Bob

"BillyBob" wrote in message

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message


I don't like this thing because it requires me to lower the blade when
ripping, something I think is more dangerous than any advantage gained
by using it.

I don't understand the mechanics of the danger of lowering the blade when
ripping. Could you elaborate? My understanding is that kickback
originates
at the rear of the blade with the teeth catching the wood enough to kick
it
back. How does lowering the blade increase the likelihood of this process
happening?

Think about it for a minute with the idea that, with the blade at its
highest setting, the front teeth are now biting into the wood at an
increased angle (almost straight down toward the table if the board is thin
enough), thereby creating downward pressure (toward the table) on the board
where the teeth are doing the cutting

If you try it, you will be able to actually feel that this increased
downward pressure offsets a tendency for the board to rise up off the table
while being cut when the blade is set lower.

Many feel this reduces the risk of kickback ... and a good argument can be
made that every little factor in your favor helps.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/14/05

"Swingman" wrote in message news:O9KdnbkCAsSLzfzfRVn-

Think about it for a minute with the idea that, with the blade at its
highest setting, the front teeth are now biting into the wood at an
increased angle (almost straight down toward the table if the board is
thin
enough), thereby creating downward pressure (toward the table) on the
board
where the teeth are doing the cutting

You're forgetting one thing though. With the blade raised to it's maximum
height, there's more blade in the meat of the wood increasing the chances of
the wood pinching the blade and being hurled in a kickback. Of course, a
splitter is supposed to protect against that, but a splitter is not
infallible against this type of action. While you're probably right about
the front teeth coming down on the wood pressing it into the table, the
reverse is true on the back teeth coming up to the wood increasing the
chances that it's going to raise the rear section of the wood setting up a
kickback scenario.

"Upscale" wrote in message
"Swingman" wrote in message

Think about it for a minute with the idea that, with the blade at its
highest setting, the front teeth are now biting into the wood at an
increased angle (almost straight down toward the table if the board is
thin
enough), thereby creating downward pressure (toward the table) on the
board
where the teeth are doing the cutting

You're forgetting one thing though. With the blade raised to it's maximum
height, there's more blade in the meat of the wood increasing the chances
of
the wood pinching the blade and being hurled in a kickback. Of course, a
splitter is supposed to protect against that, but a splitter is not
infallible against this type of action. While you're probably right about
the front teeth coming down on the wood pressing it into the table, the
reverse is true on the back teeth coming up to the wood increasing the
chances that it's going to raise the rear section of the wood setting up a
kickback scenario.

First off, I am not particularly an advocate of ultra high blades, I really
don't care to argue any of the points, I was just trying to answer the
question as to why some folks feel the way they do, and I haven't forgotten
anything (well, that ain't exactly true cuz I am so damn tired of working 8
days a week here lately that I can't remember my own name half the time).

But do go out to the shop and see if you can't feel the difference between a
high and low blade, particularly when first starting the cut.

All my life I have noticed the tendency of a board to "ride up" if the blade
is low when ripping, and that tendency disappears with the blade set up
high.

Hell, maybe I've just been dreaming that my touch with the saw has been good
enough to "feel" that..

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/14/05

Just walked out to the shop and measured the depth of the channle, and
there is approx 1in of clearance from the bottom of the green pad and
the inside upper edge of the gripper. So, you can have the blade
approx 1in above the workpiece and NOT cut the GRRRipper

Gosh, someone who actually owns a GRRRipper is posting on this instead
of just trying to guess about this from the pictures on the Gripper
website - will wonders never cease vbg!


John

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 06:41:19 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Upscale wrote:

"Lee Gordon" wrote in message
...
The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit
it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard
as less than ideal for ripping.

Not sure what the problem is that he's having, but the pictures on the
microjig.com website shows that it can easily clear 5" which is well above
the maximum height of a 10" blade.

Huh? Looking at the Microjig site, they claim that the narrow leg is 1/4"
wide. Scaling from that the throat depth is about an inch. Now, scaling
from an online photo is not the most accurate process in the world, but
still there's no way I'm off by a factor of 5 on that.

"John" wrote in message
Just walked out to the shop and measured the depth of the channle, and
there is approx 1in of clearance from the bottom of the green pad and
the inside upper edge of the gripper. So, you can have the blade
approx 1in above the workpiece and NOT cut the GRRRipper

Gosh, someone who actually owns a GRRRipper is posting on this instead
of just trying to guess about this from the pictures on the Gripper
website - will wonders never cease vbg!

Amazing, ain't it? But you ain't seen nothing yet. Just wait til' the
physics majors, or wannabe physic's majors, or those whose great aunts are
physic's majors, get going on the various forces acting on the blade and
wood during a cut.

It may be time to nuke the thread because it looks like this cow's been
milked.

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Last update: 4/14/05