Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Thank you.

--Winston



(1) San Francisco Bay area 90% "Weather":
Bright sunshine with light drizzle possible.
40 F to 85 F; limited humidity.

On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.

Chris

On 5/20/2010 1:57 PM, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.


Very good. Thanks, Chris.

--Winston

Chris Friesen wrote:
On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.

Chris
won't te yellow tint turn it brown?

i'd try on some scrap first.

*This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

If you put Spar Varnish on this it will look fantastic and shiney for
about 11 months. Then it will start to peel. No problem, simply sand
of every bit of it at that time and then reapply. Repeat every 11
months... forever. Even on a front door that is only partially
exposed, the best you'll get is two years off any varnish. Aslk any
boat owner about the word "refit."

I would suggest a penetrating oil finish, specifically Penofin if you
can find it. Get a few quart cans or find a good store that has
samples of redwood with the finish applied. Even the clear will change
the color and they also have stain colors but I am telling you redwood
is beautiful when oiled. yes, you need to reapply, probably once a
year but just slosh on another coat.

On Thu, 20 May 2010 12:53:32 -0700, Winston
wrote the following:

Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Aw, just Penofin that puppy. It's semi-transparent and slows greying
considerably. I haven't used it but have seen it on several projects
to good effect. They like the Red Label the best. Nobody I know has
tried the Verde (Spanish for "green") eco-safe no-voc version.
"Clear" is the least offensive color, IMnsHO.

Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle

On 5/20/2010 5:23 PM, Winston wrote:
On 5/20/2010 1:57 PM, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.


Very good. Thanks, Chris.

Personally I'd go for a penetrating stain purpose made for redwood decks
and fences.

Whatever you use, if it's a clear finish you're going to have to
maintain it regularly--that means inspect annually and usually recoat
every couple of years, in some cases after stripping the finish. Clear
finishes just don't hold up well in exterior applications.

Read all the instructions carefully, and understand that the people who
make the stuff are _serious_--you can't cut corners or the stuff is
going to look like Hell and come off in patches in a short time--also
don't try to follow some generic procedure--different materials have
different applications requirements. If it says "pressure wash and coat
in two hours" then pressure wash and coat in two hours. If it says
"sand and wait three months" then sand and wait three months.

On Thu, 20 May 2010 16:04:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote the following:

On Thu, 20 May 2010 12:53:32 -0700, Winston
wrote the following:

Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned

"Clear" is the least offensive color, IMnsHO.

Oops, I jsut saw a comment that the clear allows the wood to go gray.
Uckfay atthay itshay.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle

Chris Friesen wrote:

Spar varnish.

NOT.

Varnish, especially spar, or even poly or LP, just won't cut it on
redwood.

Need a penetrating oil, applied every 6-9 months, depending on
exposure.

BTW, cheap and fast are mutually exclusive in this application.

Lew

On Thu, 20 May 2010 12:53:32 -0700, Winston wrote:

Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned about a month
ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the redwood grain appearance so I
would like your advice on a fast inexpensive, great looking coating to
preserve the look of the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7
so durability is most important.

Thank you.

--Winston



(1) San Francisco Bay area 90% "Weather":
Bright sunshine with light drizzle possible. 40 F to 85 F; limited
humidity.

There may be quicker and easier ways to treat your gate
but anything worth doing is worth doing right, here's
my method.

If you didn't use stainless steel fastners, now is a good time
to correct that oversight, some of the chemicals may be
corrosive.

First you will need to build a metal pan deep enough to
submerge your gate with it laying flat and block it up
aroundthe sides with some of your neighbors pavers
(you can return them when through).

Now is a good time to get beer, while you are at the store
getting borax, get a case and a half and three boxes of
borax.

Fill the pan with water and start a fire under it.
I recommend you use some old tires, foam rubber,
plastic bottles and maybe some heart pine for fuel.
feeding a fire is hot dirty work, the smoke will keep
the flies, gnats and mosquitoes out of the neighborhood
while you work, everyone will benefit.

When the water comes to a boil dissolve all the borax
that will go into solution, and lay the gate in pan
and bring back to a boil. After the gate has boiled
for 10 minutes put out the fire and let cool until the
next morning. Do this three days in a row, don't laugh, at
one time all wood was treated this way, it is highly
effective even if it is a little slow and messy.

On the second and third day walk your property line
and look for neighbors pets that may have ingested the
solution and that are sick or dead, collect them in garbage
bags and place in freezer, you can use your freezer or one
the neighbors if they have one on their back porch.
Don't forget to move them before they are discovered.
You may want to keep the cats for a push stick.

After the third day you have to dispose of the borax
solution, if there is a tree leaning over your
property line that you don't really enjoy, that would be a
good place to dump the solution. Always think ahead and try
solve two problems at once.

Let the gate dry for a couple of weeks. Fill your pan with
paraffin and bring to frying heat and put gate back in pan,
cook for 30 minutes. Put fire out and wait until the wax
is down to 200 degrees, this will ensure that enough has
penetrated the wood and it will be thin enough to
drain completely and leave a nice finish.

Disposing of the wax is more of a problem, it won't
soak in the ground, so you will have to carry it at least
two houses away from yours.

Return the pavers, they will look fine even if they are a
smoky and cracked up.

Use the pan for a drip pan to park the car over.
Rehang the gate, if you have done this correctly it will
last at least 25 years, by then most of the neighbors
will have forgotten about the missing pets, smoke and
trees dying.

basilsik



A wink is as good as a nod to a blind horse

"basilisk" wrote in message
...
humidity.

There may be quicker and easier ways to treat your gate
but anything worth doing is worth doing right, here's
my method.

If you didn't use stainless steel fastners, now is a good time
to correct that oversight, some of the chemicals may be
corrosive.

First you will need to build a metal pan deep enough to
submerge your gate with it laying flat and block it up
aroundthe sides with some of your neighbors pavers
(you can return them when through).

Now is a good time to get beer, while you are at the store
getting borax, get a case and a half and three boxes of
borax.

Fill the pan with water and start a fire under it.
I recommend you use some old tires, foam rubber,
plastic bottles and maybe some heart pine for fuel.
feeding a fire is hot dirty work, the smoke will keep
the flies, gnats and mosquitoes out of the neighborhood
while you work, everyone will benefit.

When the water comes to a boil dissolve all the borax
that will go into solution, and lay the gate in pan
and bring back to a boil. After the gate has boiled
for 10 minutes put out the fire and let cool until the
next morning. Do this three days in a row, don't laugh, at
one time all wood was treated this way, it is highly
effective even if it is a little slow and messy.

On the second and third day walk your property line
and look for neighbors pets that may have ingested the
solution and that are sick or dead, collect them in garbage
bags and place in freezer, you can use your freezer or one
the neighbors if they have one on their back porch.
Don't forget to move them before they are discovered.
You may want to keep the cats for a push stick.

After the third day you have to dispose of the borax
solution, if there is a tree leaning over your
property line that you don't really enjoy, that would be a
good place to dump the solution. Always think ahead and try
solve two problems at once.

Let the gate dry for a couple of weeks. Fill your pan with
paraffin and bring to frying heat and put gate back in pan,
cook for 30 minutes. Put fire out and wait until the wax
is down to 200 degrees, this will ensure that enough has
penetrated the wood and it will be thin enough to
drain completely and leave a nice finish.

Disposing of the wax is more of a problem, it won't
soak in the ground, so you will have to carry it at least
two houses away from yours.

Return the pavers, they will look fine even if they are a
smoky and cracked up.

Use the pan for a drip pan to park the car over.
Rehang the gate, if you have done this correctly it will
last at least 25 years, by then most of the neighbors
will have forgotten about the missing pets, smoke and
trees dying.

basilsik

That's how I did my gate but I had a helluva time finding a pan big enough.
Makes a great drip pan though.

http://tinyurl.com/24og5z3

Max

On 5/20/2010 3:36 PM, chaniarts wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:
On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.

Chris
won't te yellow tint turn it brown?

i'd try on some scrap first.

Copy that. Thanks!

--Winston

On 5/20/2010 4:04 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2010 12:53:32 -0700,
wrote the following:

Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Aw, just Penofin that puppy. It's semi-transparent and slows greying
considerably. I haven't used it but have seen it on several projects
to good effect. They like the Red Label the best. Nobody I know has
tried the Verde (Spanish for "green") eco-safe no-voc version.
"Clear" is the least offensive color, IMnsHO.

http://www.penofin.com/


Sounds like serious stuff.

Thanks, Larry.

--Winston

On 5/20/2010 4:06 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On 5/20/2010 5:23 PM, Winston wrote:
On 5/20/2010 1:57 PM, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 05/20/2010 01:53 PM, Winston wrote:
Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned
about a month ago. SWMBO informed me that she likes the
redwood grain appearance so I would like your advice on a fast
inexpensive, great looking coating to preserve the look of
the wood. This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

Spar varnish. Thin the first coat or two so it "sinks in" better.


Very good. Thanks, Chris.

Personally I'd go for a penetrating stain purpose made for redwood decks
and fences.

Whatever you use, if it's a clear finish you're going to have to
maintain it regularly--that means inspect annually and usually recoat
every couple of years, in some cases after stripping the finish. Clear
finishes just don't hold up well in exterior applications.

Read all the instructions carefully, and understand that the people who
make the stuff are _serious_--you can't cut corners or the stuff is
going to look like Hell and come off in patches in a short time--also
don't try to follow some generic procedure--different materials have
different applications requirements. If it says "pressure wash and coat
in two hours" then pressure wash and coat in two hours. If it says "sand
and wait three months" then sand and wait three months.

OK.

Thanks!

--Winston

On 5/20/2010 4:16 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2010 16:04:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote the following:

On Thu, 20 May 2010 12:53:32 -0700,
wrote the following:

Hi all.

I just finished installing the fence gate that I mentioned

"Clear" is the least offensive color, IMnsHO.

Oops, I jsut saw a comment that the clear allows the wood to go gray.
Uckfay atthay itshay.

Esyay. Anksthay.

--Instonway

On 5/20/2010 4:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:

Spar varnish.

NOT.

Varnish, especially spar, or even poly or LP, just won't cut it on
redwood.

Need a penetrating oil, applied every 6-9 months, depending on
exposure.

BTW, cheap and fast are mutually exclusive in this application.

I suspected as much.

Larry's Penofin sounds like a better contender.

--Winston

On 5/20/2010 5:19 PM, basilisk wrote:

(Stunningly labor intensive but no doubt effective process)


Thanks, Basilisk.

I'm hoping for something that I can spread on with
a paintbrush in about 20 minutes.

--Winston

On 5/20/2010 5:59 PM, Max wrote:


That's how I did my gate but I had a helluva time finding a pan big enough.
Makes a great drip pan though.

http://tinyurl.com/24og5z3

Pretty, Max!

--Winston

"Winston" wrote in message
...
On 5/20/2010 5:59 PM, Max wrote:


That's how I did my gate but I had a helluva time finding a pan big
enough.
Makes a great drip pan though.

http://tinyurl.com/24og5z3

Pretty, Max!

--Winston

Thank You. I'm sure you didn't take me seriously when I mentioned a pan big
enough for that gate. {:-)

Max

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Aw, just Penofin that puppy.

Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.

Max (mutter, mumble, gripe)

On Thu, 20 May 2010 23:10:27 -0700, Winston
wrote the following:

On 5/20/2010 4:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:

Spar varnish.

NOT.

Varnish, especially spar, or even poly or LP, just won't cut it on
redwood.

Need a penetrating oil, applied every 6-9 months, depending on
exposure.

BTW, cheap and fast are mutually exclusive in this application.

I suspected as much.

Larry's Penofin sounds like a better contender.

Sikkens Cetol is a wonderful two part clearcoat which needs to be
refinished every few years. That--or any other film finish--is great
if you're in an entirely masochistic mood.

Go with the Red. I've heard good things about Cabot's Australian
Timber Oil from the local paint companies and others. Wood likes both
of 'em.

--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On Fri, 21 May 2010 00:19:02 GMT, basilisk
wrote the following:

--snip--
On the second and third day walk your property line
and look for neighbors pets that may have ingested the
solution and that are sick or dead, collect them in garbage
bags and place in freezer, you can use your freezer or one
the neighbors if they have one on their back porch.
Don't forget to move them before they are discovered.
You may want to keep the cats for a push stick.

After the third day you have to dispose of the borax
solution, if there is a tree leaning over your
property line that you don't really enjoy, that would be a
good place to dump the solution. Always think ahead and try
solve two problems at once.

Disposing of the wax is more of a problem, it won't
soak in the ground, so you will have to carry it at least
two houses away from yours.

Return the pavers, they will look fine even if they are a
smoky and cracked up.

Use the pan for a drip pan to park the car over.
Rehang the gate, if you have done this correctly it will
last at least 25 years, by then most of the neighbors
will have forgotten about the missing pets, smoke and
trees dying.

Yuppers, that's a good one for the Anti-FAQ, boys and girls.
I'll be passing it along to the usual suspects, too.

--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On Fri, 21 May 2010 08:46:35 -0600, "Max"
wrote the following:

"Winston" wrote in message
...
On 5/20/2010 5:59 PM, Max wrote:


That's how I did my gate but I had a helluva time finding a pan big
enough.
Makes a great drip pan though.

http://tinyurl.com/24og5z3

Pretty, Max!

--Winston

Thank You. I'm sure you didn't take me seriously when I mentioned a pan big
enough for that gate. {:-)

He'd turn to the gents on Wreck.Metalheads for that one, of course.
It is quite doable, y'know.

--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On Fri, 21 May 2010 08:51:47 -0600, "Max"
wrote the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Aw, just Penofin that puppy.

Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.

Where you is? Que Paso, um, I mean El Paso, Texicus?

I almost went through LC but I found the shortcut between Deming and
Hatch. It was a wild ride that day. I was barreling along at about 80
in a rented Crown Vic when a crow dived to a few feet above the
highway and aimed himself directly at me behind the windshield. He
veered off just in time. Just after I'd slowed way down, a sheet of
rain hit the glass and I was blinded. Quickly looking out the window,
I slowed and stopped, still on the roadway. It was over in a minute or
three, but it was the heaviest burst of rain I'd ever seen or felt in
a vehicle. I stopped cursing crows after that. He probably saved my
life.

What I didn't do is repeat "Oh my God!" and "I've never seen anything
like that." a minimum of fifty times over the course of a 4 minute
vid. 'Course, I didn't see hail.


--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On 5/20/2010 3:45 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

If you put Spar Varnish on this it will look fantastic and shiney for
about 11 months. Then it will start to peel. No problem, simply sand
of every bit of it at that time and then reapply. Repeat every 11
months... forever. Even on a front door that is only partially
exposed, the best you'll get is two years off any varnish. Aslk any
boat owner about the word "refit."

OK, three votes for Penofin or an analog.

I will begin looking for a local supplier.

Thanks!

--Winston

On 5/21/2010 8:24 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2010 23:10:27 -0700,
wrote the following:

(...)

Larry's Penofin sounds like a better contender.

Sikkens Cetol is a wonderful two part clearcoat which needs to be
refinished every few years. That--or any other film finish--is great
if you're in an entirely masochistic mood.

Go with the Red. I've heard good things about Cabot's Australian
Timber Oil

Thanks for the brand name citations, Larry!

--Winston

On 5/21/2010 7:46 AM, Max wrote:
"Winston" wrote in message
...
On 5/20/2010 5:59 PM, Max wrote:


That's how I did my gate but I had a helluva time finding a pan big
enough.
Makes a great drip pan though.

http://tinyurl.com/24og5z3

Pretty, Max!

--Winston

Thank You. I'm sure you didn't take me seriously when I mentioned a pan
big enough for that gate. {:-)

I took it as seriously as the rest of your funny article.

Funnier still is that for organizations of a certain size, the
huge pan would probably be the best approach.

--Winston

On 5/21/2010 9:37 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 May 2010 08:46:35 -0600,
wrote the following:

wrote in message
...


(...)

Pretty, Max!

--Winston

Thank You. I'm sure you didn't take me seriously when I mentioned a pan big
enough for that gate. {:-)

He'd turn to the gents on Wreck.Metalheads for that one, of course.
It is quite doable, y'know.

Yup. But as you say there are quicker more expensive ways to tackle
the problem!

--Winston

On 5/21/2010 7:51 AM, Max wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote

Aw, just Penofin that puppy.
Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.
Max (mutter, mumble, gripe)

I have a high end wood monger proximal so I'll check
with him.

--Winston

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 May 2010 08:51:47 -0600, "Max"
wrote the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Aw, just Penofin that puppy.

Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.

Where you is? Que Paso, um, I mean El Paso, Texicus?

I almost went through LC but I found the shortcut between Deming and
Hatch. It was a wild ride that day. I was barreling along at about 80
in a rented Crown Vic when a crow dived to a few feet above the
highway and aimed himself directly at me behind the windshield. He
veered off just in time. Just after I'd slowed way down, a sheet of
rain hit the glass and I was blinded. Quickly looking out the window,
I slowed and stopped, still on the roadway. It was over in a minute or
three, but it was the heaviest burst of rain I'd ever seen or felt in
a vehicle. I stopped cursing crows after that. He probably saved my
life.

What I didn't do is repeat "Oh my God!" and "I've never seen anything
like that." a minimum of fifty times over the course of a 4 minute
vid. 'Course, I didn't see hail.


The hail you say!
How do you know it wasn't a Raven?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chihuahuan_Raven

"Nevermore will I go to Hatch; not even for the chiles."

Max

On 5/21/2010 1:38 PM, Winston wrote:
On 5/21/2010 8:24 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2010 23:10:27 -0700,
wrote the following:

(...)

Larry's Penofin sounds like a better contender.

Sikkens Cetol is a wonderful two part clearcoat which needs to be
refinished every few years. That--or any other film finish--is great
if you're in an entirely masochistic mood.

Go with the Red. I've heard good things about Cabot's Australian
Timber Oil

Thanks for the brand name citations, Larry!

Just be aware that Australian Timber Oil is intended for hardwoods, not
softwoods, and on most softwoods even the lightest shades can get
unexpectedly and surprisingly dark. Doesn't mean you shouldn't use it
but try it on a sample before you commit.

On Fri, 21 May 2010 13:46:59 -0600, "Max"
wrote the following:

How do you know it wasn't a Raven?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chihuahuan_Raven

I'm sure it wasn't. It didn't bark at me as it flew by.


"Nevermore will I go to Hatch; not even for the chiles."

Whose children?

--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On Fri, 21 May 2010 10:36:44 -0700, Winston
wrote the following:

On 5/20/2010 3:45 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

If you put Spar Varnish on this it will look fantastic and shiney for
about 11 months. Then it will start to peel. No problem, simply sand
of every bit of it at that time and then reapply. Repeat every 11
months... forever. Even on a front door that is only partially
exposed, the best you'll get is two years off any varnish. Aslk any
boat owner about the word "refit."

OK, three votes for Penofin or an analog.

I will begin looking for a local supplier.

There are only forty one dealers within 50 miles of 95116.
http://www.penofin.com/location.shtml

--
Perfect as the wing of a bird may be, it will never enable the bird to
fly if unsupported by the air. Facts are the air of science. Without
them a man of science can never rise. -- Ivan Pavlov

And that, my friends, is what's doggin' global warming extremists. -LJ

On 5/21/2010 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

(...)

Just be aware that Australian Timber Oil is intended for hardwoods, not
softwoods, and on most softwoods even the lightest shades can get
unexpectedly and surprisingly dark. Doesn't mean you shouldn't use it
but try it on a sample before you commit.

Ah! Thanks!

--Winston

On 5/21/2010 7:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 May 2010 10:36:44 -0700,
wrote the following:

On 5/20/2010 3:45 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
This is out in the "weather" (1) 24 x 7 so durability
is most important.

If you put Spar Varnish on this it will look fantastic and shiney for
about 11 months. Then it will start to peel. No problem, simply sand
of every bit of it at that time and then reapply. Repeat every 11
months... forever. Even on a front door that is only partially
exposed, the best you'll get is two years off any varnish. Aslk any
boat owner about the word "refit."

OK, three votes for Penofin or an analog.

I will begin looking for a local supplier.

There are only forty one dealers within 50 miles of 95116.
http://www.penofin.com/location.shtml

Yup! Turns out it's available across the street and down a ways
from Pinecone Lumber.

Thanks again!

--Winston

On Fri, 21 May 2010 08:51:47 -0600, Max wrote
(in article ):

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Aw, just Penofin that puppy.

Ferret out your best local price. It's spendy, but everything which
works is nowadays. (As are many things which don't, like our
CONgress.)

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.

Max (mutter, mumble, gripe)





When I lived there, a place called 'Cashway' had it. Look in some of the
'smaller' lumber yard type stores.

-BR

"Bruce" wrote

Max wrote

Here I am in a city of 700,000 and there's no place to find Penofin.
Las Cruces, NM is the closest...........45 miles.

Max (mutter, mumble, gripe)


When I lived there, a place called 'Cashway' had it. Look in some of the
'smaller' lumber yard type stores.

-BR



Cashway is history, long since. They couldn't compete with the Borgs.
I've phoned all the "small" lumber/hardware stores in the "book"; no luck.
El Paso is notorious for not having anything that's not in high demand.
But there's a Ruby Tuesday's in Las Cruces and SWMBO likes to eat there so
off we go. {:-)

Max

"phorbin" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

First you will need to build a metal pan deep enough to
submerge your gate with it laying flat and block it up
aroundthe sides with some of your neighbors pavers
(you can return them when through).

Is there a reason one wouldn't treat the wood first and then assemble
the gate?

The pan wouldn't be big enough for a drip pan under the car when
you were through.

basilisk

In article ,
says...

First you will need to build a metal pan deep enough to
submerge your gate with it laying flat and block it up
aroundthe sides with some of your neighbors pavers
(you can return them when through).

Is there a reason one wouldn't treat the wood first and then assemble
the gate?

In article ,
says...

"phorbin" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

First you will need to build a metal pan deep enough to
submerge your gate with it laying flat and block it up
aroundthe sides with some of your neighbors pavers
(you can return them when through).

Is there a reason one wouldn't treat the wood first and then assemble
the gate?

The pan wouldn't be big enough for a drip pan under the car when
you were through.

thought so :-)