Hi all, I'm new here. I recently started making pens and I'm pleased with
the results. However, after some weeks of usage the finish on the pens
becomes dull and sometimes comes off altogether (or at least looks patchy).
Presently I sand the pens smooth then, depending on the wood (and my mood)
I'll either leave it natural, stain it or give it a coat of Danish Oil.
Then they get a final finish with hard wax. I'm hoping to sell my pens
eventually but I couldn't think of doing so until I've solved this problem.
I'm quite new at the turning game so I'd be grateful for any suggestions as
to the best finish to use so that my pens will stand up to prolonged usage
without losing their looks. Thanks in advance.

Hi John

I have been making pens for a couple of years now, and I finish them
with a couple of coats of melamine polish and then complete them with
a beeswax polish. I also tend to sand them down to a fine finish with
using various grits upto 1200.

So far that seems to work.

In article ,
"John" wrote:

Hi all, I'm new here. I recently started making pens and I'm pleased with
the results. However, after some weeks of usage the finish on the pens
becomes dull and sometimes comes off altogether (or at least looks patchy).
Presently I sand the pens smooth then, depending on the wood (and my mood)
I'll either leave it natural, stain it or give it a coat of Danish Oil.
Then they get a final finish with hard wax. I'm hoping to sell my pens
eventually but I couldn't think of doing so until I've solved this problem.
I'm quite new at the turning game so I'd be grateful for any suggestions as
to the best finish to use so that my pens will stand up to prolonged usage
without losing their looks. Thanks in advance.

CA==Super Glue has a lot of supporters, I can't use the method (due to
the chemical reactions in my nose). I polish to 12000 (MicroMesh) and
wax.

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 10:57:19 -0000, "John" wrote:

Hi all, I'm new here. I recently started making pens and I'm pleased with
the results. However, after some weeks of usage the finish on the pens
becomes dull and sometimes comes off altogether (or at least looks patchy).
Presently I sand the pens smooth then, depending on the wood (and my mood)
I'll either leave it natural, stain it or give it a coat of Danish Oil.
Then they get a final finish with hard wax. I'm hoping to sell my pens
eventually but I couldn't think of doing so until I've solved this problem.
I'm quite new at the turning game so I'd be grateful for any suggestions as
to the best finish to use so that my pens will stand up to prolonged usage
without losing their looks. Thanks in advance.

If you're going to sell your pens, I really suggest you get the Beall buffing
system and learn to use it..

All of the "Pen finishes" that I've tried are pretty much shellac and wax..
Even Shallawax, which I really liked for a while, is not very durable..

I had several pens that I'd given to friends for testing that had the finish
dull or just flake off... YUCK..

I sand and buff all of my pens.. If the wood needs it, I also wet sand them with
Natural Danish oil and buff when it's cured..
I tell my customers that if the pen finish ever dulls, wipe it gently with a
soft cloth and the glow is back... YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I am new too. My friend taught me to use HUT turning wax. It works well.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...6&cookietest=1

Use the brown one first then use the white one last.



"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 10:57:19 -0000, "John" wrote:

Hi all, I'm new here. I recently started making pens and I'm pleased with
the results. However, after some weeks of usage the finish on the pens
becomes dull and sometimes comes off altogether (or at least looks
patchy).
Presently I sand the pens smooth then, depending on the wood (and my mood)
I'll either leave it natural, stain it or give it a coat of Danish Oil.
Then they get a final finish with hard wax. I'm hoping to sell my pens
eventually but I couldn't think of doing so until I've solved this
problem.
I'm quite new at the turning game so I'd be grateful for any suggestions
as
to the best finish to use so that my pens will stand up to prolonged usage
without losing their looks. Thanks in advance.

If you're going to sell your pens, I really suggest you get the Beall
buffing
system and learn to use it..

All of the "Pen finishes" that I've tried are pretty much shellac and
wax..
Even Shallawax, which I really liked for a while, is not very durable..

I had several pens that I'd given to friends for testing that had the
finish
dull or just flake off... YUCK..

I sand and buff all of my pens.. If the wood needs it, I also wet sand
them with
Natural Danish oil and buff when it's cured..
I tell my customers that if the pen finish ever dulls, wipe it gently with
a
soft cloth and the glow is back... YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Feb 15, 3:32 pm, "Camera" wrote:
I am new too. My friend taught me to use HUT turning wax. It works well.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...6&cookietest=1

Use the brown one first then use the white one last.

I have made quite a few pens and tried every finish I could find. In
the end I never found any that lasted except the CA which could be
considered a one step application. I loved the way the HUT one/two
combo looked but it isn't durable at all.

The last couple of groups I made I put lacquer or poly on them from a
rattle can and let them dry for a couple of weeks. I buffed them on
the Beall system, and assembled the pens. The finish was good looking
and durable. You just have to make sure you are in the mood to get
the stuff out to buff and assemble your pens two weeks after
turning.

It wasn't too bad for me as I turned about 5 - 10 at a time, but I
would probably opt out for the CA if it was just one or two.

As always, YMMV.

Robert

Hi all, thanks for the replies. Some useful tips there and I'll be trying
them out in the next few weeks.
Thanks again.

On Feb 15, 5:16 am, John Young wrote:
Hi John

I have been making pens for a couple of years now, and I finish them
with a couple of coats of melamine polish and then complete them with
a beeswax polish. I also tend to sand them down to a fine finish with
using various grits upto 1200.

So far that seems to work.

Hey John

Where do you get the melamine polish?

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 20:53:26 -0000, "John" wrote:

Hi all, thanks for the replies. Some useful tips there and I'll be trying
them out in the next few weeks.
Thanks again.

If all else fails, turn a few corian pens... can't hurt the buggers and folks
think they're marble..

Great buffing compound for them is tooth paste..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In message
,
writes
On Feb 15, 5:16 am, John Young wrote:
Hi John

I have been making pens for a couple of years now, and I finish them
with a couple of coats of melamine polish and then complete them with
a beeswax polish. I also tend to sand them down to a fine finish with
using various grits upto 1200.

So far that seems to work.

Hey John

Where do you get the melamine polish?
In the UK Axminster sell it . the brand is 'Chestnut' its not strictly a
polish but a lacquer, so a quick Google should reveal lots of sources
and other brands
--
John