New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150. Achieved following in
the footsteps of a friend via a "talkative" price match.
I'm not really gloating, I'm just REALLY HAPPY about it! : ) When my dad
and I used to go fishing, we used to joke that we always heard, "You should
have been here last week...". This is pleasantly different than that.

Best,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150. Achieved following in
the footsteps of a friend via a "talkative" price match.
I'm not really gloating, I'm just REALLY HAPPY about it! : ) When my dad
and I used to go fishing, we used to joke that we always heard, "You
should have been here last week...". This is pleasantly different than
that.

Best,
Bill


Good find, I paid more than that for a resaw blade form my Laguna.

On 1/9/2010 7:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message

New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150.

Good find, I paid more than that for a resaw blade form my Laguna.

A "drive-by", if I ever saw one!


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Jan 9, 8:55*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/9/2010 7:29 PM, Leon wrote:

*wrote in message
New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150.
Good find, I paid more than that for a resaw blade form my Laguna.

A "drive-by", if I ever saw one! *

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Nicely done though. Just the right touch of "nah, nah", but not
overly done. :^)

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Jan 9, 8:55 pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/9/2010 7:29 PM, Leon wrote:

wrote in message
New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150.
Good find, I paid more than that for a resaw blade form my Laguna.

A "drive-by", if I ever saw one!

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Nicely done though. Just the right touch of "nah, nah", but not
overly done. :^)


Actually I was really just indicating what a good buy he got... The Laguna
ResawKing blade is sold by the inch, for 1-1/4" blades the price was $1.25
per inch and I use 150" blades... It is a great blade....as well it should
be.

But a NEW Delta 14" BS for $150, that is a great deal.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Jan 9, 8:55 pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/9/2010 7:29 PM, Leon wrote:

wrote in message
New in box Delta BS 14" (3/4 HP) from Lowes, $150.
Good find, I paid more than that for a resaw blade form my Laguna.

A "drive-by", if I ever saw one!

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Nicely done though. Just the right touch of "nah, nah", but not
overly done. :^)


Actually I was really just indicating what a good buy he got... The
Laguna ResawKing blade is sold by the inch, for 1-1/4" blades the price
was $1.25 per inch and I use 150" blades... It is a great blade....as
well it should be.

But a NEW Delta 14" BS for $150, that is a great deal.


(As you may know) Lowes is in the process of switching out their Delta tools
to PC tools,
which is related to how I got a clearance price. I tried to get even a
"decent deal" on the
Delta 16.5" DP (regular price is $379) but my local Lowes won't budge yet (I
needed to
drive to a different city to get the BS for $150). Anyone familiar with
the quality of that DP?
To me, the brand "Delta" represents a pretty level of quality which probably
exceeds my
needs as a hobbyist, but it may be a bit naive of me to think that way.

Best,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...


(As you may know) Lowes is in the process of switching out their Delta
tools to PC tools,
which is related to how I got a clearance price. I tried to get even a
"decent deal" on the
Delta 16.5" DP (regular price is $379) but my local Lowes won't budge yet
(I needed to
drive to a different city to get the BS for $150). Anyone familiar with
the quality of that DP?
To me, the brand "Delta" represents a pretty level of quality which
probably exceeds my
needs as a hobbyist, but it may be a bit naive of me to think that way.

Best,
Bill

IMHO to get the best tool for your money you should never be Brand Loyal...
while many of the Delta machines are way below in quality from what they
used to be there are still some that are a good value. It seems also that
many of their newer pieces are better than what they have been in the last
several years. I recently bought a new Delta DP, the 17-959L and looking at
the Delta web site it appears through their reorganizing they have dropped
quite a few DP's.
I retired my older Rockwell Radial DP. I wanted a crank to lower and raise
the table, I wanted speeds slower than 450rpm and I wanted a table that
would rotate, tilt, and bevel. It looks like the current 16.5 DP does that
also , Mdl# 17-950L.
There were several 16.5" DP in the past, I am not sure which one you are
looking at. I paid about $520 for mine.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...


(As you may know) Lowes is in the process of switching out their Delta
tools to PC tools,
which is related to how I got a clearance price. I tried to get even a
"decent deal" on the
Delta 16.5" DP (regular price is $379) but my local Lowes won't budge yet
(I needed to
drive to a different city to get the BS for $150). Anyone familiar with
the quality of that DP?
To me, the brand "Delta" represents a pretty level of quality which
probably exceeds my
needs as a hobbyist, but it may be a bit naive of me to think that way.

Best,
Bill

IMHO to get the best tool for your money you should never be Brand
Loyal... while many of the Delta machines are way below in quality from
what they used to be there are still some that are a good value. It seems
also that many of their newer pieces are better than what they have been
in the last several years. I recently bought a new Delta DP, the 17-959L
and looking at the Delta web site it appears through their reorganizing
they have dropped quite a few DP's.
I retired my older Rockwell Radial DP. I wanted a crank to lower and
raise the table, I wanted speeds slower than 450rpm and I wanted a table
that would rotate, tilt, and bevel. It looks like the current 16.5 DP
does that also , Mdl# 17-950L.
There were several 16.5" DP in the past, I am not sure which one you are
looking at. I paid about $520 for mine.



Thank you for the info. I was looking at Model 17-950. I think that your
17-959 is a step above it. I'll be on the lookout. This seems like a good
season for buying.

Best,
Bill

"Leon" wrote in message

I retired my older Rockwell Radial DP. I wanted a crank to lower and
raise the table, I wanted speeds slower than 450rpm and I wanted a table
that would rotate, tilt, and bevel. It looks like the current 16.5 DP
does that also , Mdl# 17-950L.


I want to be able to be able to drill peg holes in my workbench (to be),
and I wish to drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom end of a banjo neck, and
make nice square (true) holes on the other end where the pegs go.

I'll probably be able to think of a few other things I want in a DP
after I own one for a year or two, but at this point I don't have the
experience (or the need or the budget) to be too particular.

Is it true that using the DP as as shaper is unhealthy for it (likely to
lead to "run out"), or is occasional use like that okay?

Best,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...


I want to be able to be able to drill peg holes in my workbench (to be),
and I wish to drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom end of a banjo neck, and
make nice square (true) holes on the other end where the pegs go.

One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was the
length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present problems
in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP travels 6"



I'll probably be able to think of a few other things I want in a DP after
I own one for a year or two, but at this point I don't have the
experience (or the need or the budget) to be too particular.

Is it true that using the DP as as shaper is unhealthy for it (likely to
lead to "run out"), or is occasional use like that okay?

Typicall DP's are designed for downward pressure. Side pressure will
typically wear the bearings out prematurely. I would advise against it.
Actually I have never heard of using a DP as a shaper.

Leon wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...

I want to be able to be able to drill peg holes in my workbench (to be),
and I wish to drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom end of a banjo neck, and
make nice square (true) holes on the other end where the pegs go.

One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was the
length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present problems
in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP travels 6"


According to Amazon.com, the Delta 17-950L I was looking at has a quill
travel of 3.875" and your Delta 17-959L has a quill travel of 4.875" (in
case anyone else is reading this). If the numbers were under 3", I
would look elsewhere. Thank you for reminding me about this feature
(quill length). Among a sea of facts, it's easy to forget one. I will
read up on the Steel City DP. Thank you!

Bill




I'll probably be able to think of a few other things I want in a DP after
I own one for a year or two, but at this point I don't have the
experience (or the need or the budget) to be too particular.

Is it true that using the DP as as shaper is unhealthy for it (likely to
lead to "run out"), or is occasional use like that okay?

Typicall DP's are designed for downward pressure. Side pressure will
typically wear the bearings out prematurely. I would advise against it.
Actually I have never heard of using a DP as a shaper.

That was my understanding too. I saw someone demonstrating a shaper
tool on a DP at a woodworking show. At least it looked like a DP. Maybe
the tool had already been fully depreciated, and weighed less than a shaper.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...

I want to be able to be able to drill peg holes in my workbench (to be),
and I wish to drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom end of a banjo neck, and
make nice square (true) holes on the other end where the pegs go.

One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was
the length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP
travels 6"


According to Amazon.com, the Delta 17-950L I was looking at has a quill
travel of 3.875" and your Delta 17-959L has a quill travel of 4.875" (in
case anyone else is reading this). If the numbers were under 3", I would
look elsewhere. Thank you for reminding me about this feature (quill
length). Among a sea of facts, it's easy to forget one. I will read up
on the Steel City DP. Thank you!

I had actually boilded the decision down to the Steel City or the Delta that
I actually purchased.

I don't recall if either had more hp over the other but that is typically
not an issue since you can "gear down". My previous DP had 1/3 hp IIRC and
it was always adequate even on larger forstner bits. I just could not get
it to turn slow enough to prevent burning the larger bits.

My old DP was right at 3" and going up less than 1 inch was not enough to
justify upgrading for me. I could live with just under 5", 6" would have
been preferrable.

IIRC the final feature that sold me on the Delta was the multi angle tilt
table and its larger size over the Steel City.

I still don't see much point in the laser that came with mine... its good
for getting things sorta close but I can see well enough and don't depend or
rely on the laser at all.

"Leon" wrote in message
...
Typicall DP's are designed for downward pressure. Side pressure will
typically wear the bearings out prematurely. I would advise against it.
Actually I have never heard of using a DP as a shaper.


Seems like the (following) mortiser attachment would violiate the principle
too, despite good intentions.
If the mortiser attachment does not hurt the bearings used as a mortiser,
then it seems like it would not hurt
the bearing used with a shaper bit, no???


http://www.amazon.com/Delta-17-924-M...9381&sr =8-13


By the way, I found out that Delta discontinued the 17" DP with model
XX-959L. I was interested enough
to call Woodcraft about it today, and found out it has been discontinued.

Should the Rikon DPs be avoided? Leon, I can see why you chose the
959L..nice table, quill length, ...

Bill

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:33:37 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:
Seems like the (following) mortiser attachment would violiate the principle
too, despite good intentions.
If the mortiser attachment does not hurt the bearings used as a mortiser,
then it seems like it would not hurt the bearing used with a shaper bit, no???

I'd have to agree with Leon's assessment and tend to disagree with
your thinking. A mortiser attachment for the most part is exerting
downward pressure. Some type of shaper attachment would primarily be
exerting lateral pressure and be much more likely to wear out those
bearings that Leon is talking about.

Admittely, I don't have a drill press mortiser attachment, but I've
read quite a few practical usage opinions on their use and by far,
those opinions have panned drill press mortiser attachments.

wrote in message
news
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:33:37 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:
Seems like the (following) mortiser attachment would violiate the
principle
too, despite good intentions.
If the mortiser attachment does not hurt the bearings used as a mortiser,
then it seems like it would not hurt the bearing used with a shaper bit,
no???

I'd have to agree with Leon's assessment and tend to disagree with
your thinking. A mortiser attachment for the most part is exerting
downward pressure. Some type of shaper attachment would primarily be
exerting lateral pressure and be much more likely to wear out those
bearings that Leon is talking about.

Admittely, I don't have a drill press mortiser attachment, but I've
read quite a few practical usage opinions on their use and by far,
those opinions have panned drill press mortiser attachment

The mortising attachment attaches to the quill, not the spindle. no load on
the bearings except the drill bit.

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:02:00 -0800, "CW"
wrote:
The mortising attachment attaches to the quill, not the spindle. no load on
the bearings except the drill bit.

No argument. Nonetheless, I've yet to see highly favourable comments
concerning the usage of a drill press for mortising purposes. Most
have admitted that their drill press mortising attachment was
relegated to the unused tools storage bin in fairly short order.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:02:00 -0800, "CW"
wrote:
The mortising attachment attaches to the quill, not the spindle. no load
on
the bearings except the drill bit.

No argument. Nonetheless, I've yet to see highly favourable comments
concerning the usage of a drill press for mortising purposes. Most
have admitted that their drill press mortising attachment was
relegated to the unused tools storage bin in fairly short order.

Because it wasn't effective or because they were concerned about their DP?

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...
Typicall DP's are designed for downward pressure. Side pressure will
typically wear the bearings out prematurely. I would advise against it.
Actually I have never heard of using a DP as a shaper.


Seems like the (following) mortiser attachment would violiate the
principle too, despite good intentions.
If the mortiser attachment does not hurt the bearings used as a mortiser,
then it seems like it would not hurt
the bearing used with a shaper bit, no???

No,,, the mortiser attachment works differently. The chisel which receives
most of the load is attached to the quill IIRC and the bit simply spins
inside like most any other bit. A shaper would exert side pressure....
BUT mortisers tend to be quite a bit of extra trouble when used on a DP.
Putting it on adjusting and removing it is a multi step precess that takes
time For me that would get real old Quick. I would advise a dedicated
mortiser to leace your DP free to drill holes. Dedicated mortisers tend to
be relatively inexpensive.




http://www.amazon.com/Delta-17-924-M...9381&sr =8-13


By the way, I found out that Delta discontinued the 17" DP with model
XX-959L. I was interested enough
to call Woodcraft about it today, and found out it has been discontinued.

I think I would confirm that with Delta... it still shows on their site..
But it looks like the 16.5" has most of the features that the 17" has.

Should the Rikon DPs be avoided? Leon, I can see why you chose the
959L..nice table, quill length, ...

I would not say to avoid the Rikon, DP's tend to not be complicated as long
as the bearing run out is OK. I doubt Rikon has problems with that. BUT
IIRC the Rikon had a pretty short quill travel and although the table seemed
large it did not tilt like the Delta.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:02:00 -0800, "CW"
wrote:
The mortising attachment attaches to the quill, not the spindle. no load
on
the bearings except the drill bit.

No argument. Nonetheless, I've yet to see highly favourable comments
concerning the usage of a drill press for mortising purposes. Most
have admitted that their drill press mortising attachment was
relegated to the unused tools storage bin in fairly short order.

Because it wasn't effective or because they were concerned about their DP?


I would think because you could cut the mortises faster and as accuratly
with a router if the DP did not have the mortiser attached and set up. You
can not drill holes with the mortiser set up in place and setting up is a
process.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

By the way, I found out that Delta discontinued the 17" DP with model
XX-959L. I was interested enough
to call Woodcraft about it today, and found out it has been discontinued.

I think I would confirm that with Delta... it still shows on their site..


TY for pointing that out. Good point. But, isn't that a "shaper" bit in
the 4th and 5th pictures
at the bottom of the page??


http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=15685

"Leon" wrote in message
...

But it looks like the 16.5" has most of the features that the 17" has.

Yep. I think the 17" is better though

Thank you for filling me in about mortisers.

Bill

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 00:34:45 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:

TY for pointing that out. Good point. But, isn't that a "shaper" bit in
the 4th and 5th pictures
at the bottom of the page??
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=15685

It's a sanding drum. And yes, it would experience some lateral
pressure similar to what a shaper bit would experience. However, the
lateral pressure would be much less. One other thing to consider too.
Drill presses operate at much slower RPMs than shapers and routers. I
doubt whether a drill press could spin a shaper bit fast enough to
effectively cut wood.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

By the way, I found out that Delta discontinued the 17" DP with model
XX-959L. I was interested enough
to call Woodcraft about it today, and found out it has been
discontinued.

I think I would confirm that with Delta... it still shows on their site..


TY for pointing that out. Good point. But, isn't that a "shaper" bit in
the 4th and 5th pictures
at the bottom of the page??


http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=15685


No. A sanding drum. And what upscale said, a sanding drum is not as tough
on a DP as a shaper bit would be. Remember the sanding drum does not dig
out large chunks of wood by comaprison as a shaper bit would. Tpically
shaper bits have 3-5 contact points where the blade hits the work, that
shock would be hard on the bearings.
Pressure on the bearing would not be as damaging as hammering on the
bearing.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

But it looks like the 16.5" has most of the features that the 17" has.

Yep. I think the 17" is better though

Thank you for filling me in about mortisers.

Bill

1/2" better? LOL

I had a 36" radial DP prior so I had to get used to the idea of a reach of
8.5" in the 17" DP vs. what I had, 18" on the 36" DP. It was mostly a
mental obstacle I think as I have not had a problem drilling what I need.
The older DP was a bench top with a tilting head rather than a tilting table
however I was limited on drilling depth and the length/height of the object
to be drilled.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

But it looks like the 16.5" has most of the features that the 17" has.

Yep. I think the 17" is better though

Thank you for filling me in about mortisers.

Bill

1/2" better? LOL

No, the 17-950L and 17-959L Both have the same (very nice) table.
The 17-959L has 3/4 HP instead of 1/2 HP, and 4.875" quill length instead of
3.875".
It can also be wired for 240 (I'm not sure how valuable that is), and has 16
speeds
instead of 12. Of these differences, the quill lengh and the power seem the
most
significant to me (in that order).

Best,
Bill



I had a 36" radial DP prior so I had to get used to the idea of a reach of
8.5" in the 17" DP vs. what I had, 18" on the 36" DP. It was mostly a
mental obstacle I think as I have not had a problem drilling what I need.
The older DP was a bench top with a tilting head rather than a tilting
table however I was limited on drilling depth and the length/height of
the object to be drilled.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

By the way, I found out that Delta discontinued the 17" DP with model
XX-959L. I was interested enough
to call Woodcraft about it today, and found out it has been
discontinued.

I think I would confirm that with Delta... it still shows on their
site..


TY for pointing that out. Good point. But, isn't that a "shaper" bit in
the 4th and 5th pictures
at the bottom of the page??


http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=15685


No. A sanding drum. And what upscale said, a sanding drum is not as
tough on a DP as a shaper bit would be. Remember the sanding drum does
not dig out large chunks of wood by comaprison as a shaper bit would.
Tpically shaper bits have 3-5 contact points where the blade hits the
work, that shock would be hard on the bearings.
Pressure on the bearing would not be as damaging as hammering on the
bearing.


Thank you, and Upscale, for explaining the dynamics of a shaper bit. I've
never used one.

Bill

On Jan 12, 11:53*pm, "Leon" wrote:

No argument. Nonetheless, I've yet to see highly favourable comments
concerning the usage of a drill press for mortising purposes. Most
have admitted that their drill press mortising attachment was
relegated to the unused tools storage bin in fairly short order.

Because it wasn't effective or because they were concerned about their DP?

I would think because you could cut the mortises faster and as accuratly
with a router if the DP did not have the mortiser attached and set up. *You
can not drill holes with the mortiser set up in place and setting up is a
process.

Setup with a router is quick, but I don't like the mortises I get -
they're shallow and rounded at the ends. Yes, I know I can rasp or
chisel rounds on the tenons. But I still don't want to cut a 3/8"
mortise 2" or more deep with a router bit. Do you?

For a few mortises, I'll cut by hand. But if I'm making a lot of
them, I'll set up the mortising attachment on the drill press. It's a
hobby, and no one is paying for my time. And I don't feel the need
for a dedicated mortiser.

I have a lathe with change gears, not a quick change gearbox. Cutting
threads means swapping gears rather than just throwing a couple of
levers. In a commercial machine shop, that would be wasteful of both
time and money. As would having machines without digital readouts.
But again, it's a hobby.

John Martin

wrote in
:


It's a sanding drum. And yes, it would experience some lateral
pressure similar to what a shaper bit would experience. However, the
lateral pressure would be much less. One other thing to consider too.
Drill presses operate at much slower RPMs than shapers and routers. I
doubt whether a drill press could spin a shaper bit fast enough to
effectively cut wood.

I've dropped the occasional router bit into the drill press, and they work
ok for drilling holes. (I don't have any Forstner style bits yet, so if I
need a flat hole I've got to use the router bit.) They don't spin fast
enough to do any real cutting of wood, except in the smallest dimension.

It seems the velocity of the router bit is necessary not only for cutting,
but for clearing the chips out, too.

Puckdropper

On Jan 13, 9:12*pm, Larry Kraus wrote:
Bill wrote:

Is it true that using the DP as as shaper is unhealthy for it (likely to
lead to "run out"), or is occasional use like that okay?

I do not recall hearing of anyone using a drill press as a shaper. I
suspect that would be too slow to provide a clean cut.(Which is why
router bits do not work well in a DP)

I have read that even sanding drums are not recommended for any DP
where the chuck *is mounted to a Morse taper quill. My understanding
is that the side load causes the chuck to loosen and come off.
Probably exciting enough with a sanding drum, but I think I'll step
outside it you want to try it with shaper knives...

Lots of drill presses have a top speed of 5,000 or so RPM. Not quite
up to the speed of most shapers, but enough so that you can get a
decent cut.

You are right about the side load being a problem, though.

Many drill presses have a spindle with a female Morse taper, and use
an arbor with a male Morse taper and a male Jacobs taper to mount the
chuck. Typically, there is no drawbar holding the arbor to the
spindle - and the side load imposed by a shaper cutter or a sanding
drum can loosen the arbor from the spindle.

The chuck on most drill presses has a female Jacobs taper, and mounts
on a male Jacobs taper on the abovementioned arbor or directly on the
spindle. Some have a threaded locking collar which holds the Jacopbs
tapers together. Most don't, though. Although the Jacobs tapers are
not intended to be frequently separated, the short length of the
Jacobs tapers make them more susceptible to separating from side
loading than the Morse tapers.

Finally, even if the chuck is firmly connected to the spindle, a
Jacobs chuck is not designed to take heavy side loads. Heavy side
loads can cause a cutter to walk its way right out of the chuck jaws.
Take a look at any milling machine whose owner regularly uses end
mills in the drill chuck, and you'll usually find that those end mills
have left tracks in the vise and mill table.

I have an old Delta Milwaukee 14" drill press, which uses
interchangeable spindles. The usual spindle has a male Jacobs 33
taper, and a drill chuck stays on it. I have another spindle with a
1/2" hole in it and set screws - that one can take router bits or
bushings for mortising bits. Another spindle has a 5/16" shaft,
threaded on the end, for a line of special small shaper cutters.
Another has a flange and a short 1/2" shaft, threaded on the end, for
cup-type grinding wheels. Finally, some have female Morse #1 and #2
ends - some solid and some with the Morse socket carried on a Jacobs
taper. Lots of variations, depending on the job.

John Martin

"Leon" wrote in message
...


One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was the
length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP
travels 6"


Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. Are any folks using these to compensate for short
quill length
of their DP (with good results)? If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on one's
tolerences...I'd expect
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
than usual).

Bill

On Jan 14, 1:10*am, "Bill" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...

One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was the
length of bit/wuill travel. *Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. *MINE IIRC trables about 5". *The Steel City DP
travels 6"

Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". * I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. *Are any folks using these to compensate for short
quill length
of their DP (with good results)? * If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on one's
tolerences...I'd expect
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
than usual).

Perhaps I don't understand you point, but a long drill bit doesn't
make the bit move any further (the purpose of a long quill travel).
You could move the table to meet the chuck, I suppose though that's a
lot sloppier.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...


One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was
the length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP
travels 6"


Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. Are any folks using these to compensate for
short quill length
of their DP (with good results)? If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on
one's tolerences...I'd expect
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
than usual).

Bill

If the bit is shorther than the quill travel naturally you would be limited
to the bit length for drilling holes. There are bit extenders but those
typically are of no help on a DP, the extenders are larger in diameter than
the drill bit and will not go inside the hole.
Typically I want a longer quill travel so that I can drill out Pen centers
and have a little excess room to manuver.

wrote:
On Jan 14, 1:10 am, "Bill" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...

One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was the
length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP
travels 6"
Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. Are any folks using these to compensate for short
quill length
of their DP (with good results)? If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on one's
tolerences...I'd expect
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
than usual).

Perhaps I don't understand you point, but a long drill bit doesn't
make the bit move any further (the purpose of a long quill travel).
You could move the table to meet the chuck, I suppose though that's a
lot sloppier.

I was thinking that any run-out effect would be proportional to the
distance that the drill bit is extended into the work, and the extender
would magnify this since I would expect it to be an imperfect connector.

Bill

Leon wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
...


One thing that the one I purchaed offered and I for got to mention was
the length of bit/wuill travel. Many are under 3" and that can present
problems in some cases. MINE IIRC trables about 5". The Steel City DP
travels 6"

Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. Are any folks using these to compensate for
short quill length
of their DP (with good results)? If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on
one's tolerences...I'd expect
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
than usual).

Bill

If the bit is shorther than the quill travel naturally you would be limited
to the bit length for drilling holes.

Good point.


There are bit extenders but those
typically are of no help on a DP, the extenders are larger in diameter than
the drill bit and will not go inside the hole.

Unless you are using a Forstner bit--which I thought might be typical
for deep holes. Of course, your "pen center" example seems like a
counter-example. I'm not sure of the smallest Forster bit size--I'll
look it up. I assume one could get one with 1/4" shaft (but I haven't
looked yet).

Typically I want a longer quill travel so that I can drill out Pen centers
and have a little excess room to manuver.

Yes, that occurred to me while I have been thinking about this. The
extra quill length buys one convenience in set up!

Thank you!
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...


There are bit extenders but those typically are of no help on a DP, the
extenders are larger in diameter than the drill bit and will not go
inside the hole.

Unless you are using a Forstner bit--which I thought might be typical for
deep holes.

Ah Bill,,,, you got me there, doh!



Of course, your "pen center" example seems like a
counter-example. I'm not sure of the smallest Forster bit size--I'll look
it up. I assume one could get one with 1/4" shaft (but I haven't looked
yet).

IIRC my set goes down to 1/4" diameter but the shank is 3/8"