I happen to stumbled across an inexpensive source for a wood called IPE
http://www.woodfinder.net/woods/ipe.htm and am considering making a butcher
block table top out of it. It's slightly dark for my taste, but SWMBO
really likes it for some reason. The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.

The top alone would be heavy (around 300 lbs), which implies very stable if
the base is constructed correctly g. No problem, other then moving it
around when it's finished...

(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment on
it's suitability for this application?

(2) In it's natural state, this wood feels somewhat "oily" (for lack of a
better term). Is TightBond II going to hold it together assuming it's
planed/jointed/clamped appropriately, etc., or will I need another type of
glue?

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

Thanks,

++ Dave

O

The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.



ipe is very hard for sure. it may dull your knives (G)



(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment on
it's suitability for this application?


it is a oily wood is I don't know if it would be a great idea. but it would hold
up to water very well. it would outlast you.

(2) In it's natural state, this wood feels somewhat "oily" (for lack of a
better term). Is TightBond II going to hold it together assuming it's
planed/jointed/clamped appropriately, etc., or will I need another type of
glue?

you need to freshly mill it then use a poly glue gorilla glue is the best.
dampen both sides too.

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)


lots of very fine dust. cuts cleaning and planes well too. a lot of work to sand
though.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Is your source a public source that others of us can use?



"Dave" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I happen to stumbled across an inexpensive source for a wood called IPE
http://www.woodfinder.net/woods/ipe.htm and am considering making a
butcher
block table top out of it. It's slightly dark for my taste, but SWMBO
really likes it for some reason. The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with
dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.

The top alone would be heavy (around 300 lbs), which implies very stable
if
the base is constructed correctly g. No problem, other then moving it
around when it's finished...

(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment
on
it's suitability for this application?

(2) In it's natural state, this wood feels somewhat "oily" (for lack of a
better term). Is TightBond II going to hold it together assuming it's
planed/jointed/clamped appropriately, etc., or will I need another type of
glue?

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including
answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

Thanks,

++ Dave

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including
answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

It's a hard abrasive wood. I hope you like sharpening knives.

"Dave" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I happen to stumbled across an inexpensive source for a wood called IPE
http://www.woodfinder.net/woods/ipe.htm and am considering making a
butcher
block table top out of it. It's slightly dark for my taste, but SWMBO
really likes it for some reason. The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with
dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.

The top alone would be heavy (around 300 lbs), which implies very stable
if
the base is constructed correctly g. No problem, other then moving it
around when it's finished...

(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment
on
it's suitability for this application?

(2) In it's natural state, this wood feels somewhat "oily" (for lack of a
better term). Is TightBond II going to hold it together assuming it's
planed/jointed/clamped appropriately, etc., or will I need another type of
glue?

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including
answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

Thanks,

++ Dave

December issue of Fine WW had an article on gluing oily woods like teak,
rosewood, cocobolo. One of the practices is to wipe the wood with
solvel(laquer thinner, etc) immediately before gluing up. I know this is
the method West epoxy resin recommends for teak in boat work.

The only toxicity reports seem to be that some individuals have skin
irritation from sawdust created by maching operations.

The dimensions you mention are similar to the tradition butcher block that
were in common use in the U.K. in the past. I once was asked to
re-condition one of these and found they were through bolted in both the X &
Y axes to counter act the tremendous seasonal expansion/contraction
pressure, these blocks were usually made from beech and were subject to
daily scrub down. Just a thought.

Bernard R

No one has mentioned this yet and you may want to give this some heavy
consideration. I work with Ipe quite often and your findings are correct.
BUT, TRY this for yourself. When Ipe is cut you end up with a brown saw
dust and a yellowy green powdery dust. This dust reacts with salt and some
mild citric acids. Basically if you get the dust on your sweaty hands the
dust will turn BLOOD RED. Using citrus based blade cleaners will also turn
this powder BLOOD RED.
Now with that in mind, many of the foods that you prepare on this surface
will probably react with the top and make the top and or some of your foods
turn BLOOD RED.

In article k.net,
says...
I happen to stumbled across an inexpensive source for a wood called IPE
http://www.woodfinder.net/woods/ipe.htm and am considering making a butcher
block table top out of it. It's slightly dark for my taste, but SWMBO
really likes it for some reason. The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.

The top alone would be heavy (around 300 lbs), which implies very stable if
the base is constructed correctly g. No problem, other then moving it
around when it's finished...

(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment on
it's suitability for this application?

(2) In it's natural state, this wood feels somewhat "oily" (for lack of a
better term). Is TightBond II going to hold it together assuming it's
planed/jointed/clamped appropriately, etc., or will I need another type of
glue?

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

Thanks,

++ Dave



Dave,

I wouldn't use it for anything in the kitchen where you would be
preparing food. When building my deck, I had to use a really good
respirator when doing any milling/cutting operations. The yellow pollen
is nasty stuff in the lungs - I can only imagine what would happen if
you got some in your digestive tract.

Stick with maple.
--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 05:42:58 GMT, "Dave" wrote:

Is your source a public source that others of us can use?

I buy it locally no problem.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

December issue of Fine WW had an article on gluing oily woods like teak,
rosewood, cocobolo. One of the practices is to wipe the wood with
solvel(laquer thinner, etc) immediately before gluing up. I know this is
the method West epoxy resin recommends for teak in boat work.


the problem with sol;vents is the can bring up the oils. gorilla glue is far
easier to use.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 13:40:43 GMT, "Leon" wrote:

No one has mentioned this yet and you may want to give this some heavy
consideration. I work with Ipe quite often and your findings are correct.
BUT, TRY this for yourself. When Ipe is cut you end up with a brown saw
dust and a yellowy green powdery dust. This dust reacts with salt and some
mild citric acids. Basically if you get the dust on your sweaty hands the
dust will turn BLOOD RED. Using citrus based blade cleaners will also turn
this powder BLOOD RED.

I never noticed that with ipe. but I have had problems with ebony dust the stuff
would not wash off. but if it reacts to your sweat that could be a problem for
sure.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 13:40:43 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

No one has mentioned this yet and you may want to give this some heavy
consideration. I work with Ipe quite often and your findings are
correct.
BUT, TRY this for yourself. When Ipe is cut you end up with a brown saw
dust and a yellowy green powdery dust. This dust reacts with salt and
some
mild citric acids. Basically if you get the dust on your sweaty hands
the
dust will turn BLOOD RED. Using citrus based blade cleaners will also
turn
this powder BLOOD RED.

I never noticed that with ipe. but I have had problems with ebony dust the
stuff
would not wash off. but if it reacts to your sweat that could be a problem
for
sure.


Shoot, do y'all sweat ut thar in Aregon? ;~)

"Dave" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I happen to stumbled across an inexpensive source for a wood called IPE
http://www.woodfinder.net/woods/ipe.htm and am considering making a
butcher
block table top out of it. It's slightly dark for my taste, but SWMBO
really likes it for some reason. The sample I have is very hard and very
dense - it barely floats. I'm considering an end-grain top with
dimensions
somewhere around 22x34x10 inches glued from 3/4 stock. I've never worked
with this stuff (IPE) before, but it seems *plenty* hard and very fine
grained - a good combination for a butcher block top. BTW, the sample I
have comes from a deck supply wholesaler.

The top alone would be heavy (around 300 lbs), which implies very stable
if
the base is constructed correctly g. No problem, other then moving it
around when it's finished...

(1) Does anyone know what the toxicity of IPE wood is, or care to comment
on
it's suitability for this application?

well you're going to quite a bit of trouble to make a huge end grain butcher
block top. i would make a small cutting board (say 8x10x2 or so) first and
see what happens. maybe feed the stuff to your dog first to make sure its
not poisoned g that said, only maple is FDA approved, but just about any
wood will work as long as you keep it well oiled.

the fact that i cannot find a single instance of anyone using ipe for a
butcher block by searching the web says something also...

so in short, make a small cutting board first.

randy

Steve Knight wrote...
On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 13:40:43 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:
...
Basically if you get the dust on your sweaty hands the
dust will turn BLOOD RED. Using citrus based blade cleaners will also
turn this powder BLOOD RED.

I never noticed that with ipe. but I have had problems with ebony dust
the stuff would not wash off. but if it reacts to your sweat that could
be a problem for sure.


My hands are often discolored by certain woods, especially when I'm
turning for several hours at a stretch. Walnut, for example, leaves a
dark purplish stain. It doesn't wash off, but seems to go away somehow
within a day or so. I've had similar staining, though different colors,
from cocobolo, bloodwood, gaboon ebony, rosewood (d. stevensonii), and
I'm sure some others. Is this common, or is it something in my sweat?

Can it be washed off? I've tried soaps (including lava), citrus based
hand cleaner, and who knows what else. And if not, why does it disappear
so quickly, relatively speaking? A day or so doesn't seem enough time
for it to wear away.

Jim

"xrongor" wrote in message
newsW41c.28494$PR3.505750@attbi_s03...

so in short, make a small cutting board first.

randy

I made a very small edge-grain (about 5x7x1) board to test the glue
strength. Tightbond II seems to hold it together just fine. I haven't used
it for cutting though. Ipe kind of smells like cinnamon when sanded, which
reminded me of how distinct rosewood smells when working with it and how
toxic that stuff is, so I thought I'd "ask the experts" :-) since I couldn't
find anything myself.

++ Dave

Regarding a butcher's block made from Ipe Dave wrote:

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

I've worked with many different exotic hardwoods and I'm not bothered by many of
those which cause common allergic reactions. Ipe is an exception. If I breath
Ipe sawdust I feel like I've contacted pneumonia. This reaction lasts for about
two weeks. Since I've figured out the cause I now wear a respirator that is
certified VOC compliant when working with Ipe.

Personally, I'd think twice before using IPE for a butcher's block.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Shoot, do y'all sweat ut thar in Aregon? ;~)


not in my shop the hottest it gets is 78 usually it is around 60.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 03:24:03 GMT, "Dave" wrote:


I made a very small edge-grain (about 5x7x1) board to test the glue
strength. Tightbond II seems to hold it together just fine. I haven't used
it for cutting though. Ipe kind of smells like cinnamon when sanded, which
reminded me of how distinct rosewood smells when working with it and how
toxic that stuff is, so I thought I'd "ask the experts" :-) since I couldn't
find anything myself.


when I tested the glue joints I broke them with a hammer. gorilla glue did the
best of anything. yellow glue would let the joint fail before the wood.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...


Shoot, do y'all sweat ut thar in Aregon? ;~)


not in my shop the hottest it gets is 78 usually it is around 60.


You know Steve, August in Houston, 78 is the low just before sun up.. LOL

"Dave" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"xrongor" wrote in message
newsW41c.28494$PR3.505750@attbi_s03...

so in short, make a small cutting board first.

randy

I made a very small edge-grain (about 5x7x1) board to test the glue
strength. Tightbond II seems to hold it together just fine. I haven't
used
it for cutting though. Ipe kind of smells like cinnamon when sanded,
which
reminded me of how distinct rosewood smells when working with it and how
toxic that stuff is, so I thought I'd "ask the experts" :-) since I
couldn't
find anything myself.

well im no expert and i cant find a single thing about using ipe as a
butcher block

is it just me or have the days of searching and actually finding useful
information in the internet over? it seemed there was a golden year or two
where you could find stuff until the 'business models' kicked in and the
search engines are now just glorified advertising agencies.

randy

You know Steve, August in Houston, 78 is the low just before sun up.. LOL


well you need a bat cave for a shop like me (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

well im no expert and i cant find a single thing about using ipe as a
butcher block

well it is a pretty new wood for that. but you don't usually see many tropicals
for them in the us.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"Nova" wrote in message
...
Regarding a butcher's block made from Ipe Dave wrote:

Any other experiences working with this wood appreciated, including
answers
to any questions I should have asked but didn't (or didn't know to ask)

I've worked with many different exotic hardwoods and I'm not bothered by
many of
those which cause common allergic reactions. Ipe is an exception. If I
breath
Ipe sawdust I feel like I've contacted pneumonia. This reaction lasts for
about
two weeks. Since I've figured out the cause I now wear a respirator that
is
certified VOC compliant when working with Ipe.

This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for, and actually halfway
expected based on the "unique" smell Ipe sawdust has. Too bad for me... I
have a cheap source and it seems to have all the other characteristics
necessary. I had a similar experience making pistol grips from rosewood,
and just don't mess with rosewood any more.

Personally, I'd think twice before using IPE for a butcher's block.

I think I'll take that advice.

++ Dave

No kidding.. There are quite a few caves in Texas and especially in the
hill country. It stays nice and cool in them year round.


"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...

You know Steve, August in Houston, 78 is the low just before sun up..
LOL


well you need a bat cave for a shop like me (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.