I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while tightening it
down?

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Puckdropper wrote:
I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while tightening it
down?

Try holding it by the hub instead of the blade...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to
expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while tightening it
down?

Puckdropper

If there is room try using a large spring clamp to hold both the front and
back hubs from in place.

Keep in mind that accuracy in other areas is impossible to accomplish. The
exact depth of the dado is impossible to achieve as the bottom of the dado
is rounded. Because of this the sides of the dado will establish the full
depth that a mating panel or board can be inserted. The center of the dado
will be lower and the wider the dado the more this becomes a problem.

Larry Kraus wrote:

To answer your question: No, there is nothing you can do.
To resolve your need for an accurate dado:Buy a stack dado.

Well, if we're going to spend Puckdropper's hard-earned cash, then I
think he should be using a high-precision CNC router, which'll produce
flat-bottomed (or profile-bottomed) dados, stopped-dados, curvy dados,
zig-zag dados, circular and elliptical dados,...

....as well as mortises, tenons, finger joints, half-blind dovetails,
normal dovetails, bear's ears, double-helix balusters, and sink cutouts.

I have and use both.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Puckdropper" wrote:

I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having
trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific
width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to
expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while
tightening it
down?

You and the guy pushing on a rope have a lot in common.

You can't get there from here.

Time to start saving for a stacked dado.

Lew

I always find the "you can't do it" aspects of this forum quite
helpful. Coupled with the "you must buy more tools", it must be
encouraging to those without limitless funds to find their situation
has been declared hopeless by the experts. Certainly, giving up is an
option as well, right?

Puck - when I couldn't afford a stacker when I was starting in the
trades, we used a wobbler due to its speed of cutting. And while you
could get carbide tipped dado wobblers, you couldn't get carbide
tipped router bits that were any good. So we were stuck with wobblers
for making site built cabinets. This wasn't the problem some would
make it.

Set the old wobbly up as close as you can, then use a pencil to make
reference marks on the hubs (both side) and blade (both sides).
Test. Open up or close as needed to get the perfect thickness you
want. Granted, it takes patience, but you have a tool that works well
within it means. That translates that all precision must come from
you.

After you get the width cut to you satisfaction, take an awl or
sharpened ramset nail and scratch into the metal your personal
reference points. (BTW, the ones on the hub are accurate within about
1/8" or so, give or take 1/4", so I would use them too much!).

I have an old one in my shop that was from +/- 1975 that has scratches
for 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" plywood for shelves.

My complaint with the wobbler end product was that the same as Leon's
above, that bottoms weren't really smooth and flat once you got to the
wider limits of cutting capacity. However, an ultra sharp 1/2" butt
chisel cleans up the cuts in seconds. However, unlike Leon, I didn't
have depth cut problems; the brand of dado I used could easily be set
for depth, but it cut the correct depth on the outsides of the dado
leaving little tracks inside the cut itself. The difference could be
different makers or models from the same makers. Leon's point
addressed the only downside I saw in the field.

While I heard of wobblers going out of adjustment while in use, mine
(all 3-4 of them were purchased at Sears somewhere between '75 - '80)
never did. I don't think the boys tightened them properly, as in not
enough.

If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

Robert

wrote:
I always find the "you can't do it" aspects of this forum quite
helpful. Coupled with the "you must buy more tools", it must be
encouraging to those without limitless funds to find their situation
has been declared hopeless by the experts. Certainly, giving up is an
option as well, right?

Well said (see my initial response) and with more patience than I could
muster. I'm still using the Sears wobbler I bought back in the 70's to
use with my RAS, mostly for straight tenons - and I still like it for
that job.

I had a small tongue-in-cheek sign in my lab office back then that
applied to my woodworking as well:

"We have done so much with so little for so long that we are now
qualified to build absolutely /anything/ with nothing."

I'd still rather puzzle out how to get the job done with a tool I
already have or build a new tool using the old ones than go out and buy
another.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Jun 20, 3:27*pm, "
wrote:
I always find the "you can't do it" aspects of this forum quite
helpful.

*sound of sarcasm meter hitting the pin* LOL

[snipped for brevity]
*So we were stuck with wobblers
for making site built cabinets. *This wasn't the problem some would
make it.

Absolutely. A wobbler isn't a topofthefrickinline tool, but it does
the job.
They only get a bit sloppy when used wide open and a bit grabby when
cutting rough stuff like oak cross-grain.

[again snipferized to accomplish that ever-sough-after- brevitization]
If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. *While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

The Voice-Of-Reason™ strikes again G

wrote:

snip

If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

*Patience*, a virtue I often find in far too short a supply.

Tried a wobbler, thing scared the devil out of me, so resorted to
nibbling with a standard blade until I bit the bullet and got a
stacked dado.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news
wrote:

snip

If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

*Patience*, a virtue I often find in far too short a supply.

Tried a wobbler, thing scared the devil out of me, so resorted to nibbling
with a standard blade until I bit the bullet and got a stacked dado.

Lew

I have a nice $$ Freud dado but I find that 80 - 90% of the time I use a
router for dadoes.
Quicker set-up. Cleaner dadoes.

Max

"Max" wrote:

I have a nice $$ Freud dado but I find that 80 - 90% of the time I
use a router for dadoes.
Quicker set-up. Cleaner dadoes.

The next time you need to cut 8-10 dadoes, 16"-20" long, for one job,
you may look at things a little differently.

Router cut dadoes are nice for small jobs, but not for serious work
IMHO.

Lew

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Max" wrote in message news:rFe%l.218
I have a nice $$ Freud dado but I find that 80 - 90% of the time I use a
router for dadoes.
Quicker set-up. Cleaner dadoes.

I don't agree with all of that. My experience last summer cutting a number
of dados for the picnic table I built put the tablesaw with dado blade at
about a quarter of the time needed to set up the router and then set it
again for a different depth. This was especially evident when I was
sneaking
up on a particular depth. The hand held router also made for much finer
dust
that went everywhere. Might have been different with a table mounted,
vacuum
assisted router, but I don't have one.

Cleaner dados? Ok, can't argue with that, but definitely not quicker.

It helps that I have several routers and a jig for dadoes. (Shop Notes issue
76)

Max (and more router bits than I need)

"Max" wrote in message news:rFe%l.218
I have a nice $$ Freud dado but I find that 80 - 90% of the time I use a
router for dadoes.
Quicker set-up. Cleaner dadoes.

I don't agree with all of that. My experience last summer cutting a number
of dados for the picnic table I built put the tablesaw with dado blade at
about a quarter of the time needed to set up the router and then set it
again for a different depth. This was especially evident when I was sneaking
up on a particular depth. The hand held router also made for much finer dust
that went everywhere. Might have been different with a table mounted, vacuum
assisted router, but I don't have one.

Cleaner dados? Ok, can't argue with that, but definitely not quicker.

I got the Freud I believe - has the new metric and super fine 1/32 specs.

Pain to shim but does a beautiful cut.
Saved my bucket when using OPEC (oil cartel) plywood from Chile I got from
a Big Box store....

Martin

Max wrote:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news
wrote:

snip

If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

*Patience*, a virtue I often find in far too short a supply.

Tried a wobbler, thing scared the devil out of me, so resorted to
nibbling with a standard blade until I bit the bullet and got a
stacked dado.

Lew

I have a nice $$ Freud dado but I find that 80 - 90% of the time I use a
router for dadoes.
Quicker set-up. Cleaner dadoes.

Max

On 20 Jun 2009 05:27:53 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while tightening it
down?

Puckdropper


I have a double wobble and it depends on the orientation on how wide
the dado will be. It takes some fussing to get it right, but not
enough fuss to purchase a new stacked dado set. With ANY dado set,
you still need to run a test scrap piece.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
snip


Tried a wobbler, thing scared the devil out of me, so resorted to
nibbling with a standard blade until I bit the bullet and got a
stacked dado.

Lew



Sorry, Puck, but I'm coming out on Lew's side as well. I have neither,
but I do have an assortment of tools that require me to fiddle and fart
and **** around til they work - sorta. These cheapie tools have
butchered more projects than I care to list.

In some ways that sounds like an excuse. "Honey I can't make good stuff
out of wood until I have XYZ from Lee Valley or (insert any other high
end stuff here)." And there is an element of truth to the fact that a
lousy craftsman still won't know how to use a decent tool. However, a
medium-skilled DIYer like me has enough internal boogahs haunting the
shop without having to rely on quirky tools.

What I do have is a router in a half way decent table that allows me to
do most of the things a dado would do for me, albeit with less flexibility.

A dado is certainly on my list of 'must buy soon' items, but I will save
my pennies til I can get a stacked set because of all the issues I've
heard with wobblers.

That may or may not help the problem that you're having now. Or maybe it
will.

Tanus

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 20:37:42 -0400, Tanus wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:
snip


Tried a wobbler, thing scared the devil out of me, so resorted to
nibbling with a standard blade until I bit the bullet and got a
stacked dado.

Lew



Sorry, Puck, but I'm coming out on Lew's side as well. I have neither,
but I do have an assortment of tools that require me to fiddle and fart
and **** around til they work - sorta. These cheapie tools have
butchered more projects than I care to list.

Yep! The tree huggers would be at the gates with torches, if they
knew.

In some ways that sounds like an excuse. "Honey I can't make good stuff
out of wood until I have XYZ from Lee Valley or (insert any other high
end stuff here)." And there is an element of truth to the fact that a
lousy craftsman still won't know how to use a decent tool. However, a
medium-skilled DIYer like me has enough internal boogahs haunting the
shop without having to rely on quirky tools.

Perzactly! Besides, I'm to the point in life where I can afford
better toys. Can't justify Festool, but don't see what the hubbub is,
either (looked at them again at WoodCraft this morning).

What I do have is a router in a half way decent table that allows me to
do most of the things a dado would do for me, albeit with less flexibility.

I've used a table for several years. I added a lift a couple of years
ago and it's been sweet (bought the Wixey gauge during the above trip
to WoodCraft .

A dado is certainly on my list of 'must buy soon' items, but I will save
my pennies til I can get a stacked set because of all the issues I've
heard with wobblers.

Cheap dado sets aren't too pricey. Yes, they're still cheap, but
better than a wobbler, IMO. The local Lowes has stacked sets as low
as $50, with a Freud set for $100. I bought the Freud set and will
backfill with a better set later (SWMBO always needs ideas for gifts).
Yes, I also have a wobbler I used with my Crapsman RAS. It hasn't
been used in at least 20 years.

That may or may not help the problem that you're having now. Or maybe it
will.

More toys will always help. ;-)

"Tanus" wrote:

Sorry, Puck, but I'm coming out on Lew's side as well. I have
neither, but I do have an assortment of tools that require me to
fiddle and fart and **** around til they work - sorta. These cheapie
tools have butchered more projects than I care to list.

It amazes me that some are willing to fiddle-**** with a cheap ass,
poor excuse for a dado, but will spend large amounts for another tool
such as a drill, a miter gauge, etc.

Guess it is a matter of priorities.

A good stacked dado is a large investment in a speciality tool, and
maybe can't be justified by some; however, as Max as suggested, there
is an alternate solution which is within reach of most, namely a
router /W/ a straight bit, a slab of 3/4 MDF, and a couple of saw
horses.

I just have a problem with a wobble dado, IMHO, it is strictly a POS.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:n49%l.214$NF6.82
@nwrddc02.gnilink.net:

"Puckdropper" wrote:

I've got a Craftsman Wobble Dado blade (set), and have been having
trouble
getting an accurate adjustment. If I try to set it to a specific
width,
and then properly tighten the blade bolt, the pressure causes it to
expand.
Is there anything I can do to keep it the proper size while
tightening it
down?

You and the guy pushing on a rope have a lot in common.

You can't get there from here.

Time to start saving for a stacked dado.

Lew


He says... after encouraging me to look at a box joint a few weeks ago.
;-) I'm just poking fun, Lew.

I've been looking at my stacked dado options, but will have to save up
for it. Until then, I'll keep trying to work with the tool I have.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

" wrote in news:eb28a77f-
:

I always find the "you can't do it" aspects of this forum quite
helpful. Coupled with the "you must buy more tools", it must be
encouraging to those without limitless funds to find their situation
has been declared hopeless by the experts. Certainly, giving up is an
option as well, right?

Sure, I could always cut the wood shorter and just use butt joints. I'm
an expert at those. :-) A dadoed joint would be much cooler (and
stronger.)

Puck - when I couldn't afford a stacker when I was starting in the
trades, we used a wobbler due to its speed of cutting. And while you
could get carbide tipped dado wobblers, you couldn't get carbide
tipped router bits that were any good. So we were stuck with wobblers
for making site built cabinets. This wasn't the problem some would
make it.

Set the old wobbly up as close as you can, then use a pencil to make
reference marks on the hubs (both side) and blade (both sides).
Test. Open up or close as needed to get the perfect thickness you
want. Granted, it takes patience, but you have a tool that works well
within it means. That translates that all precision must come from
you.

After you get the width cut to you satisfaction, take an awl or
sharpened ramset nail and scratch into the metal your personal
reference points. (BTW, the ones on the hub are accurate within about
1/8" or so, give or take 1/4", so I would use them too much!).

Sounds like a good place to start. I've been measuring the three teeth
that are furthest out (it appears two of them move an equal amount on one
blade.) I get it set and then start to tighten it down... and it expands
a good 1/8-1/4 inch.

I have an old one in my shop that was from +/- 1975 that has scratches
for 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" plywood for shelves.

My complaint with the wobbler end product was that the same as Leon's
above, that bottoms weren't really smooth and flat once you got to the
wider limits of cutting capacity. However, an ultra sharp 1/2" butt
chisel cleans up the cuts in seconds. However, unlike Leon, I didn't
have depth cut problems; the brand of dado I used could easily be set
for depth, but it cut the correct depth on the outsides of the dado
leaving little tracks inside the cut itself. The difference could be
different makers or models from the same makers. Leon's point
addressed the only downside I saw in the field.

Isn't the depth set with the table saw blade height adjustment? For what
I'm doing, depth of cut isn't as critical as width of cut. (Shelves and
attempting box joints.)

While I heard of wobblers going out of adjustment while in use, mine
(all 3-4 of them were purchased at Sears somewhere between '75 - '80)
never did. I don't think the boys tightened them properly, as in not
enough.

If you want to use what you have, that tool will serve you fine with
the proper setup. While it certainly isn't as elegant or as easy a
solution as the $150 sets, you can get it where you want to go with
some patience.

Robert

Thanks for the suggestions.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" wrote:

He says... after encouraging me to look at a box joint a few weeks
ago.
;-) I'm just poking fun, Lew.

Now you know what motivated me to get mineG.

I've been looking at my stacked dado options, but will have to save
up
for it. Until then, I'll keep trying to work with the tool I have.

If I were you, I'd think router as a short term solution.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"Tanus" wrote:

Sorry, Puck, but I'm coming out on Lew's side as well. I have neither,
but I do have an assortment of tools that require me to fiddle and fart
and **** around til they work - sorta. These cheapie tools have butchered
more projects than I care to list.

It amazes me that some are willing to fiddle-**** with a cheap ass, poor
excuse for a dado, but will spend large amounts for another tool such as a
drill, a miter gauge, etc.

Guess it is a matter of priorities.

A good stacked dado is a large investment in a speciality tool, and maybe
can't be justified by some; however, as Max as suggested, there is an
alternate solution which is within reach of most, namely a router /W/ a
straight bit, a slab of 3/4 MDF, and a couple of saw horses.

I just have a problem with a wobble dado, IMHO, it is strictly a POS.

Lew

I think it's more of a NEG. G

Max

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
He says... after encouraging me to look at a box joint a few weeks ago.
;-) I'm just poking fun, Lew.

I've been looking at my stacked dado options, but will have to save up
for it. Until then, I'll keep trying to work with the tool I have.


I use a Forrest Dado King stacked dado set and it is very nice, and
expensive.

If I were to do it again, I'd go with the Freud stacked dado set that uses a
"detent dial" on the outer blade to fine tune the width of of the dado with
out using shims. About the same price as what I paid for the Forrest set.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...3&filter=freud

On Jun 22, 8:38*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

...

He says... after encouraging me to look at a box joint a few weeks ago.
;-) *I'm just poking fun, Lew.

I've been looking at my stacked dado options, but will have to save up
for it. *Until then, I'll keep trying to work with the tool I have.

I use a Forrest Dado King stacked dado set and it is very nice, and
expensive.

If I were to do it again, I'd go with the Freud stacked dado set that uses a
"detent dial" on the outer blade to fine tune the width of of the dado with
out using shims. *About the same price as what I paid for the Forrest set.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...3&filter=freud

That looks like a nice solution. I usually used my calipers to set the
stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH.
I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in
narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is
so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't
account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado
made with a hand-held router account for material thickness
differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
snip


That looks like a nice solution. I usually used my calipers to set the
stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH.
I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in
narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is
so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't
account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado
made with a hand-held router account for material thickness
differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.



We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years
now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

"Leon" wrote in message
We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years
now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

Wish I'd seen that a year ago when I bought my 8" Freud set. How easy is it
with this set to sneak up on an exact size?

On Jun 22, 10:37*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
snip

That looks like a nice solution. I usually used my calipers to set the
stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH.
I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in
narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is
so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't
account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado
made with a hand-held router account for material thickness
differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.

We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years
now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking
about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

"Robatoy" wrote in message
That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking
about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

I'm curious as to how it works. Leon? Does it turn some of the chippers into
wobblers or does it just separate them a bit emulating a stacked setup with
some shims inserted?

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 07:34:06 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in
narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is
so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't
account for variations in material thickness.

Got to agree with you. Several months ago, I donated a RAS to my
church camp since it was taking up needed space and got little usage.
Now it seems like every project has something that could be done
better with the RAS. Wonder if they'd give it back.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Upscale wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking
about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

I'm curious as to how it works. Leon? Does it turn some of the chippers into
wobblers or does it just separate them a bit emulating a stacked setup with
some shims inserted?

I've posted about this before, but it's been a few years.

No "wobblers", no shims ... "dial-in" widths from 1/4 to 29/32" in .004
increments simply by turning the dial on the outer blade
clockwise/counterclockwise.

Example:

~current project - dadoes to accept nominal 3/4" plywood - use two
outside blades, three inside chippers, and +17 clicks on the dial.

~current project - dadoes to accept nominal 1/4" plywood - use two
outside blades, NO inside chippers, and -4 clicks on the dial.

I do a setup, one time and at the beginning of every project, based on
the plywood bought for that project.

With only one table saw there is always a necessity for blade changes,
from dado, to standard and back, no matter how well you plan your batch
cuts in hardwood or sheetgoods. Thus precision repeatability from change
to change is BIG factor in $aving time.

In that regard, we take care to order the blades precisely when putting
them on, and taking them off the saw. Nothing complicated, it's as
simple as putting them back in the box in the same order they come off
the arbor, and vice versa.

With that one action, you never need to change the settings from one
blade change to the next for that project as long as the plywood is from
the same batch. Simply dial in your clicks, put the blades on in the
same order they came off, set the blade height, and off you go.

If you do need to make the rare adjustment there is no need to remove
the blades, just loosen the arbor nut, make your click adjustments
clockwise or counterclockwise in .004" increments, re-tighten, and go
about your business.

We cut miles of dadoes on a kitchen project and there NO way I would
ever go back to a shimmed dado stack.

I've got a high dollar shimmed Amana dado set that's been gathering dust
for four years. One of these days I would like to drive another table
saw under it just to be able to say I have a one size, dedicated, "dado
saw".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years
now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

Wish I'd seen that a year ago when I bought my 8" Freud set. How easy is
it
with this set to sneak up on an exact size?


I have only watched Swingman make the adjustment but he writes measurements
down so that he can repeat them nonths later. Basically you stack the
chippers which BTY are have abnormally wide teeth and add the last outer
blade. That last blade has a center screw hub that adjusts in even
increments with each detent click. I'd have to say that if the measurement
was not quite right you could loosen the arbor nut, grabe the blade and turn
the hub one or several more clicks.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jun 22, 10:37 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
snip

That looks like a nice solution. I usually used my calipers to set the
stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH.
I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in
narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is
so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't
account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado
made with a hand-held router account for material thickness
differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.

We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years
now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking
about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

Yeah, It is not cheap but it makes a standard dado set look kinda plain.
;~)

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking
about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

I'm curious as to how it works. Leon? Does it turn some of the chippers
into
wobblers or does it just separate them a bit emulating a stacked setup
with
some shims inserted?



In a previous post I mentioned that the chippers have abnormally wide teeth.
The outer adjustable blade simply moves in and or out parallel to the
chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the wide
teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out with out
creating a gap.

"Leon" wrote:


Yeah, It is not cheap but it makes a standard dado set look kinda
plain.


When I got a stacked dado coupled with a 6" dial caliper, thought I'd
just left the stone age.

BTW, it wasn't cheap either, but worth the investiment, IMHO.

Can't imagine what the feeling with this widget would be.

Lew

"Leon" wrote

In a previous post I mentioned that the chippers have abnormally wide
teeth. The outer adjustable blade simply moves in and or out parallel to
the chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the
wide teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out
with out creating a gap.
Are you saying that the chippers teeth overlap one another?

So that the chippers will always take out the groove, while the outside
blades are microadjusted for width?

Does that mean the adjustment takes place in the shaft through the center of
the dado set?

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...
Are you saying that the chippers teeth overlap one another?

Yes, just like on a normal carbide tooth dado set however there is a lot of
over lap rather than "just enough".



So that the chippers will always take out the groove, while the outside
blades are microadjusted for width?

Yes

Does that mean the adjustment takes place in the shaft through the center
of the dado set?


The flat center dial on the outer blade moves left or right. It is about
2.5" in diameter. When it is installed on the arbor the hub rests against
the chipper and holds the blade different distances fron the chipper.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news
"Leon" wrote:


Yeah, It is not cheap but it makes a standard dado set look kinda plain.


When I got a stacked dado coupled with a 6" dial caliper, thought I'd just
left the stone age.

That is what "I" still use, I make a test cut and measure the width of the
cut with the caliper. then I addd the differnece with shims. It works
pretty good but not having to putz with shims and get repeatable results is
pretty cool.




BTW, it wasn't cheap either, but worth the investiment, IMHO.

Can't imagine what the feeling with this widget would be.

Lew

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

In a previous post I mentioned that the chippers have abnormally wide
teeth. The outer adjustable blade simply moves in and or out parallel to
the chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the
wide teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out
with out creating a gap.
Are you saying that the chippers teeth overlap one another?

So that the chippers will always take out the groove, while the outside
blades are microadjusted for width?

Does that mean the adjustment takes place in the shaft through the center
of the dado set?


Go here, http://www.freudtools.com/t-manuals.aspx
Scroll to the bottom where the pdf for the dial dado set manual is.

"Leon" wrote:


That is what "I" still use, I make a test cut and measure the
width of the cut with the caliper. then I addd the differnece with
shims. It works pretty good but not having to putz with shims and
get repeatable results is pretty cool.

One thing I figured out in a hurry was to make a "record" piece to
document the width and depth of cut.

Found this to be of particular value when doing half laps or similar
joints that are material thickness related.

Run all the material for a section (top, sides, whatever) thru the
planer before starting the job.

Makes life a lot easier IMHO.

Lew


Lew

On Jun 22, 3:56*pm, Swingman wrote:

I do a setup, one time and at the beginning of every project, based on
the plywood bought for that project.

With only one table saw there is always a necessity for blade changes,
from dado, to standard and back, no matter how well you plan your batch
cuts in hardwood or sheetgoods. Thus precision repeatability from change
to change is BIG factor in $aving time.

SNIP

Wow.... doesn't that sound like a sweet setup. If I was in a position
to build a bunch of cabinets, it would seem to pay for itself on just
one project just from the time savings alone.

Neat.

Robert