wrote:
On Jun 22, 3:56 pm, Swingman wrote:

I do a setup, one time and at the beginning of every project, based on
the plywood bought for that project.

With only one table saw there is always a necessity for blade changes,
from dado, to standard and back, no matter how well you plan your batch
cuts in hardwood or sheetgoods. Thus precision repeatability from change
to change is BIG factor in $aving time.

SNIP

Wow.... doesn't that sound like a sweet setup. If I was in a position
to build a bunch of cabinets, it would seem to pay for itself on just
one project just from the time savings alone.

Neat.

Been using it for about five years now so that I don't even think about
it ... thought everyone had one by now.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Leon" wrote in message
chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the wide
teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out with out
creating a gap.

I think I get it. You're saying that teeth of the chippers overlap the
cutting area of the outside blades which gives them an amount of adjustment
without leaving any area of wood not reached by any teeth.

Upscale wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
Been using it for about five years now so that I don't even think about
it ... thought everyone had one by now.

Is that a drive by neener by any chance Karl?

Maybe five years ago ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the wide
teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out with
out
creating a gap.

I think I get it. You're saying that teeth of the chippers overlap the
cutting area of the outside blades which gives them an amount of
adjustment
without leaving any area of wood not reached by any teeth.


Yes

Upscale wrote:

I think I get it. You're saying that teeth of the chippers overlap the
cutting area of the outside blades which gives them an amount of adjustment
without leaving any area of wood not reached by any teeth.

In a nutshell, that appears to be the basic concept behind the "dial a
width" dado stack.

Possibly something else going on when using only the two outer blades
and negative clicks for 1/4" widths, but I've been too busy to analyze it.

Magic?

....who cares!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
Been using it for about five years now so that I don't even think about
it ... thought everyone had one by now.

Is that a drive by neener by any chance Karl?

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 07:38:40 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

If I were to do it again, I'd go with the Freud stacked dado set that uses a
"detent dial" on the outer blade to fine tune the width of of the dado with
out using shims.

Based on the glowing recommendations in this thread, I sprung for one
of the Freud SD600 "Dial-a-Width" dado sets (20% off from Rockler).
Tried it out today. It cuts a beautiful dado and width adjustments
are a breeze.

Ran into a little problem taking it off the arbor after the first use.
When I installed it, tightening down the arbor nut pushed all the
blades together like they should be. Don't know if my TS arbor is
slightly oversized or the arbor holes in the chippers are slightly
undersized, but I thought I was going to have to use a gear puller to
get that last chipper off the arbor. Finally worked it loose with
judicious use of thin wedges and a dead blow hammer. No problem
removing the outer blades and chippers, the ones that ride the arbor
threads, but that last chipper that rides on the non-threaded part of
the arbor acted like it was held on by an interference fit.

Could have been paint inside the arbor hole. After cleaning out the
holes in the chippers to bright metal, and using a loop of sandpaper
to polish the arbor - real precision metalworking - the chippers slide
on and off without insurmountable difficulty. The outer blades didn't
present any problem at all.

So my advice to anyone who gets one of these (or any stacked dado set,
for that matter) is to mount each blade and chipper singly and
individually before you mount the stack. Make sure the blades/chippers
will slide all the way to the inner flange without interference. Might
save you some problems getting them off after the arbor nut forces too
small a hole over too large an arbor.

My other dado set mounted and dismounted without any problem at all.
With it, the problem was those durn shims catching in the arbor
threads. At least I won't have to deal with that aggravation anymore.


Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA