I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

"Marty" wrote in message
The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

The first thing I'd look for is some dirt or perhaps a burr somewhere in or
on the collar between it and the blade.

On Sat, 07 Mar 2009 16:37:27 -0500, Marty
wrote:

While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).


I'd interpret that as meaning the friction between the nut and arbor
is greater than the friction between the nut and the arbor
washer/blade. Try spinning the nut on by hand with the blade/washer
removed while you hold the arbor with the other hand. and see if it
doesn't get hard to turn before running out of thread. If so, see if
there isn't some burr or other defect in the threads of either the
arbor or the nut.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Marty" wrote in message
...
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench it
would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

this can happen, if you use shims they can fall into the threads of the
arbor and small bits can shear off. Try cleaning the thread out with a
brush to insure that there is no debris in the threads of both the arbor and
the nut.
Magnetic shims work pretty well by attaching them to the blade prior to
putting the blade on the arbor. They don't slip down on to the arbor
threads if used in that order.

Marty wrote:

While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

According to the manual you're supposed to prevent rotation of the saw
blade by jamming a block of wood against the blade teeth.

Chris

Problem has been solved....

Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and
saw blade. Nut tightened up just fine. Still don't
understand how this happened between ten minute blade
change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
and if it happens again.

Thanks to all reply to original post.

Marty

Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

On Mon, 09 Mar 2009 12:03:03 -0400, Marty wrote:

Problem has been solved....

Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and saw blade. Nut
tightened up just fine. Still don't understand how this happened between
ten minute blade change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
and if it happens again.

I don't know what your problem is, but now you're scaring me. Relying on
the friction of two roughened surfaces to hold something moving that fast
when it wasn't held without roughening isn't a good idea.

Something you're using doesn't fit your saw correctly.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
I don't know what your problem is, but now you're scaring me. Relying on
the friction of two roughened surfaces to hold something moving that fast
when it wasn't held without roughening isn't a good idea.

And to make matters even more worrying, you, they, us, may never know what
the problem was. Scuffing up the mating surfaces may have inadvertently
fixed the problem, by removing whatever piece of dirt, burr or particle that
was causing the problem in the first place.

On Mar 9, 12:03*pm, Marty wrote:
Problem has been solved....

Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and
saw blade. *Nut tightened up just fine. Still don't
understand how this happened between ten minute blade
change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
and if it happens again.

Thanks to all reply to original post.

Marty

Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. *Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. *Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? *The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

Marty.
Solving any problem requires you to understand what went wrong in the
first place. Otherwise, your fix may just be temporary and, worse,
may be dangerous. My suggestion is that you repeat the sequence of
actions and try to reassure yourself that the problem is really fixed.

Good luck - but hope you don't need it

Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening
the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used
old Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the
blades. Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock
up the blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower,
one must lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.

If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the
blade, and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me.
I'm generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...

I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...

How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it
on, after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the
arbor to loosen the nut?

Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to
the arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does,
then you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping
the blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block
of wood... something, or am I missing something?

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

Marty wrote:
Problem has been solved....

Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and
saw blade. Nut tightened up just fine. Still don't
understand how this happened between ten minute blade
change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
and if it happens again.

Thanks to all reply to original post.

Marty

Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could
not tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the
wrench it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

Jack Stein wrote:
Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening
the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used
old Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the
blades. Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock
up the blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower,
one must lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.

If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the
blade, and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me.
I'm generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...

I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...

How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it
on, after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the
arbor to loosen the nut?

Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to
the arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does,
then you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping
the blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block
of wood... something, or am I missing something?

I have no idea if it's the same on the TS2424, but I know on the 3650,
you do need to wrenches, one on each side of the blade. The wrenches
come with the saw, there's an open end and a box end, the open end slips
over the arbor on the left side of the blade into flat areas and holds
the arbor still, the box end slips over the nut and turns it. Without
two wrenches, I don't see how you would tighten it, or as you pointed
out, how he took it off in the first place.

--
Want to read more? http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com
Religion is irrational, illogical insanity. Stop the madness!

Jack Stein wrote:
Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening
the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the manual for this saw says to
use a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning while tightening the
arbor nut. There's apparently no way to keep the arbor itself from turning.

Sketchy indeed...

Chris

Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could
not tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the
wrench it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the
arbor would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw
(assuming it is sized for the arbor shaft)?


Two wild ass guesses:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.

2. Is there an extension to the motor shaft on the other end that can be
accessed via a hex wrench (or something) to hold the shaft in place? Maybe a
hex hole on the business end?

HeyBub wrote:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.

Isn't this the usual design? My cabinet saw (which uses two wrenches)
is set up so the startup torque tends to tighten the nut.

Chris

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...


Two wild ass guesses:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's
the way I'd design it.

It will be reverse thread if it is a right tilt or if the nut is on the left
side of the blade, in the case of a circular saw.

All arbot nuts tighten in the reverse dirrection that the blade spins. If
the nut is on the right, the nut tightens clockwise. If the nut is on the
left it tightens counter clockwise.

"phorbin" wrote in message
...
In article , cbf123
@mail.usask.ca says...
HeyBub wrote:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw
tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft,
that's the
way I'd design it.

Isn't this the usual design? My cabinet saw (which uses two wrenches)
is set up so the startup torque tends to tighten the nut.

My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up like this.

I thought they all were.


Nuts tighten opposite to the direction of the blade spin. some saws the nut
goes counter clockwise some clockwise.

In addition to start up torque the resistance that meets the blade when
cutting wood also tightens the nut.

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening the
nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used old
Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the blades.
Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock up the
blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower, one must
lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.

It is pretty common for a TS to not have a way to lock the arbor when
tightening the nut. Have you ever seen those orange blade holders? they
are designed to hold the blade while you tighten the nut. If you are lucky
your saw has an arbor lock as with the PM2000 or has a spot to put a wrench
on the arbor opposite the nut.
Pretty snug is normally fine as the resistance that meets the blade when
cutting tightens the arbor nut.


If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the blade,
and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me. I'm
generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...

Saw dust in the threads of either the arbor or nut can prevent the nut from
tightening up against the washer and nut. I have had problems with rubber
dado shim material shearing off and magnetically sticking in the threads.


I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...

How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it on,
after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the arbor
to loosen the nut?

A block of wood wedged against the teeth will be sufficient resistance to
easily loosen the arbor nut.


Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to the
arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does, then
you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping the
blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block of
wood... something, or am I missing something?

Typically you don't want to have to use something that might bend/knock the
blade out of a flat state.

Leon wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...


Two wild ass guesses:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw
tightens the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the
shaft, that's the way I'd design it.

It will be reverse thread if it is a right tilt or if the nut is on
the left side of the blade, in the case of a circular saw.

All arbot nuts tighten in the reverse dirrection that the blade
spins. If the nut is on the right, the nut tightens clockwise. If
the nut is on the left it tightens counter clockwise.

Right. I was thinking only of my saw. A better way of putting it to the OP
is "Well, so you can't tighten it. So what? Just snug it up and the running
of the saw will secure the nut... Probably. Wouldn't hurt to stand clear the
first time, though."

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Leon wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...


Two wild ass guesses:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw
tightens the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the
shaft, that's the way I'd design it.

It will be reverse thread if it is a right tilt or if the nut is on
the left side of the blade, in the case of a circular saw.

All arbot nuts tighten in the reverse dirrection that the blade
spins. If the nut is on the right, the nut tightens clockwise. If
the nut is on the left it tightens counter clockwise.

Right. I was thinking only of my saw. A better way of putting it to the OP
is "Well, so you can't tighten it. So what? Just snug it up and the
running of the saw will secure the nut... Probably. Wouldn't hurt to stand
clear the first time, though."

For some reason I have lost the OP's opening comment however IIRC he had a
problem of getting the nut tight enough that the blade would not free spin.
That can easily happen of the threads have debris in them. My current saw
has 2 wrenches and after using magnetic shims on a dado set I have
witnessed the arbor nut giving enough resistance that 2 wrenches were
required to snug up the nut. I noticed that the shim hole was no longer
"round" and found a piece of it in the threads of the arbor. Being
magnetic it did not fall out. I have learned to stick the shim on to the
blade prior to mounting on the arbor vs. sliding the shim on the arbor by
itself.

In article , cbf123
@mail.usask.ca says...
HeyBub wrote:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.

Isn't this the usual design? My cabinet saw (which uses two wrenches)
is set up so the startup torque tends to tighten the nut.

My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up like this.

I thought they all were.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "HeyBub"
wrote:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's
the
way I'd design it.

That's the way *all* circular saws are made.

The only difficulty is on a saw with soft start and a brake. Braking torque
is applied to the motor shaft. The blade's inertia works to loosen the nut.
It was an issue for me only once and with a new saw. The arbor nut was
apparently not fully torqued. After a few test cuts, I was left to wonder
why the brake had suddenly "failed". I can see that becoming an issue in a
very noisy shop. You might not hear the blade whirring as it slowly winds
down on its own.

In article , "HeyBub" wrote:

1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.

That's the way *all* circular saws are made.

On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 21:21:32 +0000, Leon wrote
(in article ):


My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up like this.

I thought they all were.


Nuts tighten opposite to the direction of the blade spin. some saws the nut
goes counter clockwise some clockwise.

In addition to start up torque the resistance that meets the blade when
cutting wood also tightens the nut.



True

my Elektra ( motor on operator's right) is a "lefty tighty, righty loosy" but
my Chaiwanese Golden People's Democratic Happy Cutting Splendour, Most Safety
is a conventional thread.. motor on operator's left. Both direct drive,
obviously. Elektra has a 'ole through the back of the arbour to take a tommy
bar and the Chaiwanese uses a two-wrench system.

Probably does not violate the cardinal rule for blades. Turn the
nut the same direction as the blade turns to remove it

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bored Borg" wrote in message
.com...
On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 21:21:32 +0000, Leon wrote
(in article ):


My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up
like this.

I thought they all were.


Nuts tighten opposite to the direction of the blade spin. some
saws the nut
goes counter clockwise some clockwise.

In addition to start up torque the resistance that meets the
blade when
cutting wood also tightens the nut.



True

my Elektra ( motor on operator's right) is a "lefty tighty,
righty loosy" but
my Chaiwanese Golden People's Democratic Happy Cutting
Splendour, Most Safety
is a conventional thread.. motor on operator's left. Both direct
drive,
obviously. Elektra has a 'ole through the back of the arbour to
take a tommy
bar and the Chaiwanese uses a two-wrench system.

DanG wrote:
Probably does not violate the cardinal rule for blades. Turn the
nut the same direction as the blade turns to remove it

Which, of course, doesn't necessarily work for circular saws, depending
on which side of the blade the motor is on.

--
Want to read more? http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com
Religion is irrational, illogical insanity. Stop the madness!

"Brian Henderson" wrote in message
...
DanG wrote:
Probably does not violate the cardinal rule for blades. Turn the nut the
same direction as the blade turns to remove it

Which, of course, doesn't necessarily work for circular saws, depending on
which side of the blade the motor is on.


Actually it does. Left blade saws use a reverse thread nut or bolt. Right
blade saws use a regular threaded retainer. With both you tighten the bolt
in the opposite direction that the blade spins.

This is a reply to all of you that responded to my original
and subsequent post. I appreciate all comments, especially those
discussing safety.

Now just a little background.
I have been using this saw for many years (since 2001 I think) and after
I moved to Vermont I started setting up my new shop. I had been using
the table saw to build some benches for the wife' art studio.
This included using a standard thin kerf and dado blades with
no problems. There is no way to keep the from arbor rotating when
tightening the arbor nut. (To tighten the arbor nut I must lock the
blade with a piece of wood (per saw user guide) to keep it from rotating.)

I then started work on a workbench for the shop, used the standard
blade, then changed to the dado blade (all OK so far) then changed
back to the standard blade and the arbor nut would not tighten up!
First thought I was having a senior moment and forgot how to mount the
blade!!!! :-).

It kept slipping such that the entire arbor would rotate as I turned
the nut. Now, to attach the blade, you put the blade on to the arbor,
then add the blade collar, then the nut. The blade collar is "dome"
shaped with the "inside" of the dome facing the blade.
When the nut is tightened the blade collar compresses against the blade
and holds the blade fast against the arbor.

After I cleaned the nut, collar and blade, the nut tightened up just
fine. I have using the saw regularly since my post on 9 March with no
problems.

I certainly scratched my head over this, as did my brother who is also
a woodworker. Read, reread and rereread the user guide and then posted
my original message.

I looked at the parts but did not see anything obvious that would cause
the blade to slip. I thought the blade collar had maybe "lost" its
compression strength and was going to buy a new one from Ridgid. Then
I decided to just use a bit of sand paper to clean the surfaces (nothing
to lose if it did not work).... and lo and behold the blade tightened
up just fine. Carefully stood back and started the saw with no
flying objects seen :-). Shut down the saw and checked blade tightness
and all was good. Made some cuts and everything AOK!.
I have been using the saw for a few weeks (changed blades several times)
and still OK.
Again, thanks to all who posted comments.

Marty



Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

On Thursday, March 19, 2009 at 7:23:56 AM UTC-7, Marty wrote:
This is a reply to all of you that responded to my original
and subsequent post. I appreciate all comments, especially those
discussing safety.
Now just a little background.
I have been using this saw for many years (since 2001 I think) and after
I moved to Vermont I started setting up my new shop. I had been using
the table saw to build some benches for the wife' art studio.
This included using a standard thin kerf and dado blades with
no problems. There is no way to keep the from arbor rotating when
tightening the arbor nut. (To tighten the arbor nut I must lock the
blade with a piece of wood (per saw user guide) to keep it from rotating.)
I then started work on a workbench for the shop, used the standard
blade, then changed to the dado blade (all OK so far) then changed
back to the standard blade and the arbor nut would not tighten up!
First thought I was having a senior moment and forgot how to mount the
blade!!!! :-).
It kept slipping such that the entire arbor would rotate as I turned
the nut. Now, to attach the blade, you put the blade on to the arbor,
then add the blade collar, then the nut. The blade collar is "dome"
shaped with the "inside" of the dome facing the blade.
When the nut is tightened the blade collar compresses against the blade
and holds the blade fast against the arbor.
After I cleaned the nut, collar and blade, the nut tightened up just
fine. I have using the saw regularly since my post on 9 March with no
problems.
I certainly scratched my head over this, as did my brother who is also
a woodworker. Read, reread and rereread the user guide and then posted
my original message.
I looked at the parts but did not see anything obvious that would cause
the blade to slip. I thought the blade collar had maybe "lost" its
compression strength and was going to buy a new one from Ridgid. Then
I decided to just use a bit of sand paper to clean the surfaces (nothing
to lose if it did not work).... and lo and behold the blade tightened
up just fine. Carefully stood back and started the saw with no
flying objects seen :-). Shut down the saw and checked blade tightness
and all was good. Made some cuts and everything AOK!.
I have been using the saw for a few weeks (changed blades several times)
and still OK.
Again, thanks to all who posted comments.
Marty
Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

Marty

Thank you for posting this originally and for the solution of light sanding to the blade. The same exact thing happened to me just yesterday: I removed an 8" Dado stack and tried to reinstall my regular 10" single thin kerf blade (Diablo) on a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. The arbor kept slipping as I tried to tighten the nut so the blade wouldn't properly tighten. I bought the table saw used and it never came with the thin 7/8" (I think) wrench that you're supposed to use on the arbor collar in conjunction with the 1-1/16" arbor nut to tighten the blade. I had previously just used a block of wood against the teeth to un-tighten and gripping the blade with a glove to tighten up until now successfully for the past year or so since I got the saw.

In any case, I gave my blade a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper and lo and behold it worked! The sanding of the blade provided enough friction with the blade collar that is connected to the arbor to make the blade stay put when tightening the arbor nut. I didn't sand the collar at all, just the blade was enough for me.

Anyway, cheers and thought I'd reply to this old thread in case anyone else has a similar issue. I've also ordered some thin wrenches on Amazon so I can tighten properly in the future!

Cheers
Andrew

On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, March 19, 2009 at 7:23:56 AM UTC-7, Marty wrote:
This is a reply to all of you that responded to my original
and subsequent post. I appreciate all comments, especially those
discussing safety.
Now just a little background.
I have been using this saw for many years (since 2001 I think) and after
I moved to Vermont I started setting up my new shop. I had been using
the table saw to build some benches for the wife' art studio.
This included using a standard thin kerf and dado blades with
no problems. There is no way to keep the from arbor rotating when
tightening the arbor nut. (To tighten the arbor nut I must lock the
blade with a piece of wood (per saw user guide) to keep it from rotating.)
I then started work on a workbench for the shop, used the standard
blade, then changed to the dado blade (all OK so far) then changed
back to the standard blade and the arbor nut would not tighten up!
First thought I was having a senior moment and forgot how to mount the
blade!!!! :-).
It kept slipping such that the entire arbor would rotate as I turned
the nut. Now, to attach the blade, you put the blade on to the arbor,
then add the blade collar, then the nut. The blade collar is "dome"
shaped with the "inside" of the dome facing the blade.
When the nut is tightened the blade collar compresses against the blade
and holds the blade fast against the arbor.
After I cleaned the nut, collar and blade, the nut tightened up just
fine. I have using the saw regularly since my post on 9 March with no
problems.
I certainly scratched my head over this, as did my brother who is also
a woodworker. Read, reread and rereread the user guide and then posted
my original message.
I looked at the parts but did not see anything obvious that would cause
the blade to slip. I thought the blade collar had maybe "lost" its
compression strength and was going to buy a new one from Ridgid. Then
I decided to just use a bit of sand paper to clean the surfaces (nothing
to lose if it did not work).... and lo and behold the blade tightened
up just fine. Carefully stood back and started the saw with no
flying objects seen :-). Shut down the saw and checked blade tightness
and all was good. Made some cuts and everything AOK!.
I have been using the saw for a few weeks (changed blades several times)
and still OK.
Again, thanks to all who posted comments.
Marty
Marty wrote:
I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.

Now this puzzling problem.

After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).

The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?

Thanks
Marty

Marty

Thank you for posting this originally and for the solution of light sanding to the blade. The same exact thing happened to me just yesterday: I removed an 8" Dado stack and tried to reinstall my regular 10" single thin kerf blade (Diablo) on a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. The arbor kept slipping as I tried to tighten the nut so the blade wouldn't properly tighten. I bought the table saw used and it never came with the thin 7/8" (I think) wrench that you're supposed to use on the arbor collar in conjunction with the 1-1/16" arbor nut to tighten the blade. I had previously just used a block of wood against the teeth to un-tighten and gripping the blade with a glove to tighten up until now successfully for the past year or so since I got the saw.

In any case, I gave my blade a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper and lo and behold it worked! The sanding of the blade provided enough friction with the blade collar that is connected to the arbor to make the blade stay put when tightening the arbor nut. I didn't sand the collar at all, just the blade was enough for me.

Anyway, cheers and thought I'd reply to this old thread in case anyone else has a similar issue. I've also ordered some thin wrenches on Amazon so I can tighten properly in the future!

Cheers
Andrew



"When replying to old threads isn't a bad thing." Thanks.

On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:

....long tale of woe snipped for brevity...

More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads
thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem...

If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger
only, there's a problem there.

--

On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:

...long tale of woe snipped for brevity...

More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads
thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem...

If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger
only, there's a problem there.

--



And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with
the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a
spot to accept a wrench.

On Thursday, March 12, 2009 at 4:45:10 PM UTC-7, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.
That's the way *all* circular saws are made.

With the exception of diamond-drive circular saws. The diamond-drive
system doesn't allow the blade vs. shaft rotation, so no self-tightening occurs. It makes
those saws much easier to do blade removal (so lots of heavy duty types are
designed that way).

On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:

...long tale of woe snipped for brevity...

More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads
thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem...

If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger
only, there's a problem there.

--



And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with
the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a
spot to accept a wrench.

Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that
fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I
bought two.

On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:

...long tale of woe snipped for brevity...

More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads
thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem...

If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger
only, there's a problem there.

--



And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with
the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a
spot to accept a wrench.

Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that
fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I
bought two.


You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS
but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo
chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make
the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench
that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are
not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal
wrench size.

On 9/23/2020 4:41 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, March 12, 2009 at 4:45:10 PM UTC-7, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.
That's the way *all* circular saws are made.

With the exception of diamond-drive circular saws. The diamond-drive
system doesn't allow the blade vs. shaft rotation, so no self-tightening occurs. It makes
those saws much easier to do blade removal (so lots of heavy duty types are
designed that way).


This is true but you still have the issue of the arbor turning. Two
wrenches allows you to not have to wedge something against the blade, on
a TS. Not wedging something against the blade guards helps prevent
bending the blade.

Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.

On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote:
....

Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.

I've yet to see one... ???

A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare.

--

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote:
...
Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.
I've yet to see one... ???

A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare.

--
So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating.

Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut.
This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y

On 9/24/2020 10:20 AM, Andrew M wrote:
....

So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating.
....

Something is wrong with the threads on either the nut or the arbor or
they're still full of sawdust or old dried grease or something...

There should be no problem finger-tightening to the flange sufficiently...

It is an Acme thread isn't it?

--

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:20:48 AM UTC-4, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote:
...
Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.
I've yet to see one... ???

A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare.

--
So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating.

Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut.
This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y

Is it possible that you have an issue with the arbor itself? I can't explain why, but before I changed the arbor on my 70's vintage Craftsman TS (due to a chunky bearing) I used to get some slippage while tightening with the blade held still with a piece of wood. It wasn't slippage like it was still loose, it was more like soft jerk after it was tight like something was turning inside the arbor. (There is no provision for a second wrench on my saw.)

I had a spare arbor, so I decided to change the whole thing instead of just the bearings. Now when I tighten the arbor nut nothing slips and I feel that I could tighten it way more than I need to (but I don't).

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:15:42 AM UTC-7, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:20:48 AM UTC-4, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote:
...
Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.
I've yet to see one... ???

A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare.

--
So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating.

Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut.
This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y
Is it possible that you have an issue with the arbor itself? I can't explain why, but before I changed the arbor on my 70's vintage Craftsman TS (due to a chunky bearing) I used to get some slippage while tightening with the blade held still with a piece of wood. It wasn't slippage like it was still loose, it was more like soft jerk after it was tight like something was turning inside the arbor. (There is no provision for a second wrench on my saw.)

I had a spare arbor, so I decided to change the whole thing instead of just the bearings. Now when I tighten the arbor nut nothing slips and I feel that I could tighten it way more than I need to (but I don't).


I cleaned everything on the arbor/threads/nuts etc. No excess grease or sawdust and no deformed metal on the arbor nut that would cause it to lock into the arbor threads. From what I can tell the arbor threads seem fine. I can hand tighten the nut without any issue, It's just when I go to tighten with a wrench is there enough back-pressure on the threads to keep the nut and arbor spinning together. I'm not sure if they are acme or not, my eye isn't trained to tell the difference.

From what I can tell, the issue is simply that there is too little friction between:

1. The "washer" between the blade and the arbor nut, &
2. The arbor collar and the blade

Which is causing the washer, arbor nut and arbor to spin together in-sync. Meanwhile I'm holding the blade still but nothing tightens.

It's also possible there is too much friction between the arbor nut and the "washer," causing it to spin with the nut, but it doesn't look like there's any deformed metal causing it to catch in any way.

The saw originally came with the 7/8" arbor wrench to hold the arbor in place while you tighten the nut, so in theory using two wrenches is how the saw was designed to be tightened rather than just holding the blade. That wrench was just missing when I bought it used.