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#41
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On 9/24/2020 1:46 PM, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:15:42 AM UTC-7, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:20:48 AM UTC-4, Andrew M wrote: On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating. Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut. This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y Is it possible that you have an issue with the arbor itself? I can't explain why, but before I changed the arbor on my 70's vintage Craftsman TS (due to a chunky bearing) I used to get some slippage while tightening with the blade held still with a piece of wood. It wasn't slippage like it was still loose, it was more like soft jerk after it was tight like something was turning inside the arbor. (There is no provision for a second wrench on my saw.) I had a spare arbor, so I decided to change the whole thing instead of just the bearings. Now when I tighten the arbor nut nothing slips and I feel that I could tighten it way more than I need to (but I don't). I cleaned everything on the arbor/threads/nuts etc. No excess grease or sawdust and no deformed metal on the arbor nut that would cause it to lock into the arbor threads. From what I can tell the arbor threads seem fine. I can hand tighten the nut without any issue, It's just when I go to tighten with a wrench is there enough back-pressure on the threads to keep the nut and arbor spinning together. I'm not sure if they are acme or not, my eye isn't trained to tell the difference. From what I can tell, the issue is simply that there is too little friction between: 1. The "washer" between the blade and the arbor nut, & 2. The arbor collar and the blade Which is causing the washer, arbor nut and arbor to spin together in-sync. Meanwhile I'm holding the blade still but nothing tightens. It's also possible there is too much friction between the arbor nut and the "washer," causing it to spin with the nut, but it doesn't look like there's any deformed metal causing it to catch in any way. The saw originally came with the 7/8" arbor wrench to hold the arbor in place while you tighten the nut, so in theory using two wrenches is how the saw was designed to be tightened rather than just holding the blade. That wrench was just missing when I bought it used. Isn't there a motor? ![]() torque to do as you describe...not saying it isn't, but just hard for me to wrap head around any TS acting that way. -- |
#43
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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#44
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 00:29:02 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote: wrote in : That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper That reminds me of a story from the '50s. GE, I think it was, had a troubleshooting guide for their toasters. It said "If your toaster doesn't heat, try reversing the plug." Brilliant! |
#45
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:20:48 AM UTC-4, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating. Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut. This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y Can you tighten the nut with no blade installed? Have you tried adding an additional or thicker washer and then tightening? |
#46
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. |
#47
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 7:29 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in : That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper Better to just try the other direction. LOL |
#48
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 7:58 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 00:29:02 GMT, Puckdropper wrote: wrote in : That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper That reminds me of a story from the '50s. GE, I think it was, had a troubleshooting guide for their toasters. It said "If your toaster doesn't heat, try reversing the plug." Brilliant! ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? |
#49
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 7:58 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 00:29:02 GMT, Puckdropper wrote: wrote in : That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper That reminds me of a story from the '50s. GE, I think it was, had a troubleshooting guide for their toasters. It said "If your toaster doesn't heat, try reversing the plug." Brilliant! ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? |
#50
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 8:46 AM, dpb wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- My Craftsman and my Festool circular saws both have arbor locks, the Craftsman is probably 80's vintage. I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock. |
#51
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/24/2020 1:46 PM, Andrew M wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:15:42 AM UTC-7, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:20:48 AM UTC-4, Andrew M wrote: On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 6:47:03 AM UTC-7, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating. Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut. This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Th.../dp/B001HZQW0Y Is it possible that you have an issue with the arbor itself? I can't explain why, but before I changed the arbor on my 70's vintage Craftsman TS (due to a chunky bearing) I used to get some slippage while tightening with the blade held still with a piece of wood. It wasn't slippage like it was still loose, it was more like soft jerk after it was tight like something was turning inside the arbor. (There is no provision for a second wrench on my saw.) I had a spare arbor, so I decided to change the whole thing instead of just the bearings. Now when I tighten the arbor nut nothing slips and I feel that I could tighten it way more than I need to (but I don't). I cleaned everything on the arbor/threads/nuts etc. No excess grease or sawdust and no deformed metal on the arbor nut that would cause it to lock into the arbor threads. From what I can tell the arbor threads seem fine. I can hand tighten the nut without any issue, It's just when I go to tighten with a wrench is there enough back-pressure on the threads to keep the nut and arbor spinning together. I'm not sure if they are acme or not, my eye isn't trained to tell the difference. From what I can tell, the issue is simply that there is too little friction between: 1. The "washer" between the blade and the arbor nut, & 2. The arbor collar and the blade Which is causing the washer, arbor nut and arbor to spin together in-sync. Meanwhile I'm holding the blade still but nothing tightens. It's also possible there is too much friction between the arbor nut and the "washer," causing it to spin with the nut, but it doesn't look like there's any deformed metal causing it to catch in any way. The saw originally came with the 7/8" arbor wrench to hold the arbor in place while you tighten the nut, so in theory using two wrenches is how the saw was designed to be tightened rather than just holding the blade. That wrench was just missing when I bought it used. By any chance are you forgetting to put on the large washer between the nut and the blade? |
#52
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/25/2020 10:07 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:46 AM, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- My Craftsman and my Festool circular saws both have arbor locks, the Craftsman is probably 80's vintage. I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock. Those are hand circ saws; the thread is about a TS... -- |
#53
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 10:09:55 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
By any chance are you forgetting to put on the large washer between the nut and the blade? And the washer facing in the proper direction? |
#54
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On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:04:52 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:58 PM, wrote: On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 00:29:02 GMT, Puckdropper wrote: wrote in : That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper That reminds me of a story from the '50s. GE, I think it was, had a troubleshooting guide for their toasters. It said "If your toaster doesn't heat, try reversing the plug." Brilliant! ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. I didn't realize that the Chinglish language was that old. It was "mint" flavored. what??? |
#55
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:00:10 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. Worse. Only half of them were on backwards. Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle thread? |
#56
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 12:40:39 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 9/25/2020 10:07 AM, Leon wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:46 AM, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- My Craftsman and my Festool circular saws both have arbor locks, the Craftsman is probably 80's vintage. I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock. Those are hand circ saws; the thread is about a TS... Not all of it. This sub-thread got off on circular saws. |
#57
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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dpb writes:
On 9/25/2020 10:07 AM, Leon wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:46 AM, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- My Craftsman and my Festool circular saws both have arbor locks, the Craftsman is probably 80's vintage. I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock. Those are hand circ saws; the thread is about a TS... Personally, I've never heard the term 'circular saws' applied to any stationary power tool. They're always handheld; granted Leon diverged from the thread, but that was, I'm sure, intentional. |
#58
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/25/2020 2:43 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
dpb writes: On 9/25/2020 10:07 AM, Leon wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:46 AM, dpb wrote: On 9/24/2020 8:00 AM, Leon wrote: ... Yes most circular saws have arbor locks. I've yet to see one... ??? A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare. -- My Craftsman and my Festool circular saws both have arbor locks, the Craftsman is probably 80's vintage. I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock. Those are hand circ saws; the thread is about a TS... Personally, I've never heard the term 'circular saws' applied to any stationary power tool. They're always handheld; granted Leon diverged from the thread, but that was, I'm sure, intentional. Actually whit3rd diverged, I followed. '~) But thank you for clarification. |
#59
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/25/2020 2:01 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:00:10 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. Worse. Only half of them were on backwards. Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle thread? I believe some lathes run backwards. But 99.99% of the time not. Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter? Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH threaded. ;~) |
#60
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/25/2020 12:41 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 10:09:55 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: By any chance are you forgetting to put on the large washer between the nut and the blade? And the washer facing in the proper direction? Yeah! LOL |
#61
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On Sat, 26 Sep 2020 10:54:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 9/25/2020 2:01 PM, wrote: On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:00:10 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. Worse. Only half of them were on backwards. Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle thread? I believe some lathes run backwards. But 99.99% of the time not. Mine will (the wonders of electronics) but uses a set screw on the spindle to keep the threads threaded. Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter? Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH threaded. ;~) The backside of mine is threaded the opposite direction, I think. Some people think of everything. ;-) |
#62
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On Sat, 26 Sep 2020 19:55:52 -0400, wrote:
On Sat, 26 Sep 2020 10:54:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/25/2020 2:01 PM, wrote: On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:00:10 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. Worse. Only half of them were on backwards. Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle thread? I believe some lathes run backwards. But 99.99% of the time not. Mine will (the wonders of electronics) but uses a set screw on the spindle to keep the threads threaded. Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter? Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH threaded. ;~) The backside of mine is threaded the opposite direction, I think. Some people think of everything. ;-) runs to check Dumbass. There isn't any thread on the opposite side. The headstock gets moved to the other end for platters. An extension bed is needed (which I don't have). |
#63
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. Puckdropper |
#64
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: On 9/24/2020 7:29 PM, Puckdropper wrote: The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper Better to just try the other direction. LOL I've seen it work--tightening the bolt works to get it moving then turning it the other way removes it. Puckdropper |
#65
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On Sunday, September 27, 2020 at 5:31:49 PM UTC-4, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 9/24/2020 7:29 PM, Puckdropper wrote: The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper Better to just try the other direction. LOL I've seen it work--tightening the bolt works to get it moving then turning it the other way removes it. Puckdropper It's a good practice to leave gate valves "closed" about a 1/8 turn. i.e. not opened to the full stop. Valves like the main water shutoff for your house or any other gate valve that is seldom used. If you need to turn it off and it won't move, you've got some room to open it just a little more to free it up. Sometimes a little back and forth wiggle does the trick, but you need some room on both sides of the wiggle. |
#66
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Sun, 27 Sep 2020 21:28:12 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. The glass tapered bottle with the tip with a slit was "mucilage". It was in my experience utter crap. However it was not toxic. The "school glue" today is typically some kind of casein based "white glue"--in other words it's derived from milk or if not derived from anymore has the same chemistry as. |
#67
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/27/2020 4:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. Puckdropper Soooooo when I was in elementary school, 1st grade, I have it on good authority that "Paste" was eatable. ;~) |
#68
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/27/2020 6:29 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2020 21:28:12 GMT, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. The glass tapered bottle with the tip with a slit was "mucilage". It was in my experience utter crap. However it was not toxic. Yes! That was it! The "school glue" today is typically some kind of casein based "white glue"--in other words it's derived from milk or if not derived from anymore has the same chemistry as. |
#69
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/27/2020 4:31 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 9/24/2020 7:29 PM, Puckdropper wrote: The old timers would tell me "if it won't turn, sometimes tightening it will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck bolt and a reverse thread in one statement! Puckdropper Better to just try the other direction. LOL I've seen it work--tightening the bolt works to get it moving then turning it the other way removes it. Puckdropper Yes that absolutely works especially if the nut/bolt is kind'a rusted in place. But some times if you are not thinking, you don't know which way is tightening and which is loosening. So if it will not turn in the direction you first tried, trying in the other direction is essentially tightening and then loosening or visa versa. You end up doing both. ;~) |
#70
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 9/26/2020 7:15 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 26 Sep 2020 19:55:52 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 26 Sep 2020 10:54:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/25/2020 2:01 PM, wrote: On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 10:00:10 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/24/2020 7:02 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 07:57:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/23/2020 8:46 PM, wrote: On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 08:51:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/22/2020 8:31 PM, dpb wrote: On 9/22/2020 1:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote: ...long tale of woe snipped for brevity... More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem... If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger only, there's a problem there. -- And most decent table saws allow an arbor wrench to be used along with the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a spot to accept a wrench. Even if the arbor flange has flats, good luck finding a wrench that fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I bought two. You have to think outside the box. I had a similar issue, not with a TS but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal wrench size. That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on tight! LOL I heard that! Several months ago, mmmm 1972 I worked in an automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn Chrysler products were the same way. Worse. Only half of them were on backwards. Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle thread? I believe some lathes run backwards. But 99.99% of the time not. Mine will (the wonders of electronics) but uses a set screw on the spindle to keep the threads threaded. Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter? Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH threaded. ;~) The backside of mine is threaded the opposite direction, I think. Some people think of everything. ;-) runs to check Dumbass. There isn't any thread on the opposite side. The headstock gets moved to the other end for platters. An extension bed is needed (which I don't have). LOL I did the run and check right before I answered. Mine, a Jet, has an internally treadled shaft on the left side of the assembly. It is left hand threaded but it is internally/female threaded. |
#71
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 28/09/2020 7:35 pm, Leon wrote:
On 9/27/2020 4:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~)Â* Yeah.Â*Â*Â* So back in the 60's there was a glue for school.Â* Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit.Â* Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored.Â* what??? Some glues are VERY edible.Â* At one time, some glues were made using egg whites.Â* (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. Puckdropper Soooooo when I was in elementary school, 1st grade, I have it on good authority that "Paste" was eatable.Â* ;~) I thought the white glue was good. Somewhat of a minty taste. |
#72
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 9/27/2020 4:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. Puckdropper Soooooo when I was in elementary school, 1st grade, I have it on good authority that "Paste" was eatable. ;~) Wasn't paste just flour and water? |
#73
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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(Scott Lurndal) wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes: On 9/27/2020 4:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out. It was "mint" flavored. what??? Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets on your fingers?) They might still be used. Puckdropper Soooooo when I was in elementary school, 1st grade, I have it on good authority that "Paste" was eatable. ;~) Wasn't paste just flour and water? Flour + water + alum = https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/24301650/_ https://images.findagrave.com/photos...0185669969.jpg Moral of the story: Please do not eat the Library Paste, kiddies. Who wants their existence on this planet preserved for posterity as being someone who died eating paste? |
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